CD Cabinet -- WIP

[zenwood]

The pics here should be pretty much self-explanatory. I'm trying a new technique of text/image integration.

Comments/criticisms welcome.

The shelves will be slightly narrower than the width of a CD. This makes for easy extraction of CD, and was an idea I used a few years ago for a small set of shelves for CDs. (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=18479) It works well because the CDs can be stored compactly without the need for those space-wasting plastic dividers or fiddly springs.

Dovetails were spaced purely by eye without measuring anything. I used a Veritas dovetail marker to get the angles.

The white stuff in pic 3 is some superglue that I used to try to glue back a piece that was chipped out. It didn't stick, and left the white residue. I kept the chip to glue back in during assembly. I'm hoping the white stain will come off when I plane the dovetails after assembly.

[zenwood]

Dovetails for the carcase frame...

[zenwood]

Dovetails, continued.

[Doughboy]

Looking the goods. I like the idea of just making something and enjoying the journey.

Pete

[zenwood]

The middle shelf will be joined to the carcase sides with tapered sliding dovetail joints, cut by hand.

[zenwood]

Sawing the shoulders...

[zenwood]

The non-tapered shoulder is cut square, and the tapered shoulder is undercut to match the dovetail cut in the mating piece...

[zenwood]

Hmm...that groove is pretty narrow...

(Did you spot the stuff-up yet?:(()

[zenwood]

Finishing the grooves. Then start on the matching tail...

A keen eye will notice a little woopsy in pic4, where a chip has broken off at the shoulder of a dovetail: this happens when you undercut the shoulders too severely.

[zenwood]

How cool is a dovetail plane...

[zenwood]

Plane -- test -- plane -- test ...

[zenwood]

Start fiddling with the pieces for the doors. I stuffed up the dimensions somewhere: the floating panels won't be wide enough to sit in grooves in the frames. Not sure what to do about that yet: maybe add fillets to form grooves, instead of cutting them in the frames? What do you think?

The colours are quite a bit different. Amazing that it's all 'blackwood'. Should I stain to try to get a more uniform colour, or treat the colour shifts as visual interest?

One of those knots fell out, and the other is a dead knot. What should I do? Fill with resin? Use a plug?

[RufflyRustic]

Hi Zen

Great WIP thread!!!!

Could you tell me more about the saw you used? I know we had a small discussion about them a little while back, but I'm very interested in your thoughts and experience with it.

Thanks
Wendy

[echnidna]

Nice work Zen,

How long did you play with sketchup to be able to do your (1st) pic in the start of this thread?

Any tips on learning/using sketchup.

[zenwood]

Doughboy: thanks: that's what it's all about, for me.

Wendy: Which saw? One is the Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw, the other is the ECE sliding dovetail saw (http://images.google.com.au/images?q=ece%20dovetail%20saw&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&sa=N&tab=wi). It works well: though the bolts that hold the blade could be better designed because the nuts spin in their holes. I get around it by wedging a narrow chisel blade in there. I also did some shaping of the handle to get it more comfortable.

echnidna: I spent a few hours learning sketchup. It's a great tool, even the free version that I used. I'd recommend going through the introductory video tutorials:

http://sketchup.google.com/tutorials.html

Have Sketchup up and running so you can draw along and do variations as you watch.

[steb]

great stuff.

my 0.02:

I wouldnt stain; I think the varying colours add a lot of interest.

Panels too narrow: fillets is one of the usual answers if you cant get an extra plank to match

[zenwood]

Cheers, steb. I'm inclined to the same way of thinking: I'm always reluctant to stain. I like to let the wood's own colour show.

Meantime, here are some more.

[RufflyRustic]

HI Zen,

Thanks for that, yes, I dd mean the sliding dovetail saw, sorry. :B

I like how you've included the pic description as part of the picture itself. Very Cool!

Thanks!

Wendy

[dai sensei]

Looking great Zen. Glad to see you went for the resin, and no stain options, certainly my choice.

[Harry72]

Nice WIP Zen'one, the text on the pic's is a good idea it saves clicking between pages/tabs.

Is there any reason the sliding DT is only angled 1 side?

You deserve many greens for this thread!

[zenwood]

Thanks Harry.

Is there any reason the sliding DT is only angled 1 side?
Only one side is angled because for hand cut DT it's easier to make. The only reason to do 2-sided angles would be if you're using a router bit.

[Harry72]

Naaaaaah I wouldnt use a router bit... errr yes I would!:doh:

[zenwood]

Managed a bit of shed time today -- just enough to work on those knot holes.

The blu-tac left some light grease stain behind, but was very superficial, and able to be removed with some light planing.

The ridges from Otto's thicknesser are still visible on these boards. I'll wait till I've edge-joined them before planing these marks away.

[zenwood]

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[Wardy]

excellent photos and wip zen. look forward to seeing more:2tsup:
cheers

[zenwood]

Thanks Wardy -- it's good to get some encouragement.

I've learned some shortcuts and streamlined the procedure for putting text on lots of photos at once, and batch processing, etc. So it's been a good experience. (Not to mention the woodworking).

On with just a couple more pics from today . . .

[Wardy]

I've learned some shortcuts and streamlined the procedure for putting text on lots of photos at once, and batch processing, etc. So it's been a good experience. (Not to mention the woodworking).

hi zen
the text on the photos work brilliantly and its good when you learn a quicker way of doing things, makes for more shed time. the woodwork looks ok to:wink:. keep up the good work:)
cheers

[Wongo]

Real cool Zenwood. Real cool.:2tsup:

[zenwood]

It's coming to crunch time, and I glossed over some issues when designing this thing.

1. How do I keep the doors shut? There is no central post, and I don't want to obstruct removing any CDs from the central shelf area. I've had a look at the 'library catch (http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=40115&cat=3,41399)' at Lee Valley but it's too big to be mortised into the carcase. Anyone got any suggestions?

2. The doors are designed to fit inside the carcase. Is there a way of hingeing these doors so that when opened to say 100 degrees, they won't obstruct the extraction of CDs from the ends of the shelves?

[Glenn_M]

Kitchen cabinet hinges?
There are versions that open out to about 110 degrees I think. Maybe not the look you're after though......

Cheers,

Fantastic work BTW.:2tsup:

[Dangermouse]

How about a magnetic catch? Do you have enough room on the top shelf to squeeze one above the cd's?

[Wardy]

How about a magnetic catch? Do you have enough room on the top shelf to squeeze one above the cd's?

i'm thinking on the same lines as dangermouse

[Morti2.0]

How about a ball catch, like on french doors? They take up very little room and hold securely, & work great for french doors and cabinets. [added from duplicate message]

An example...
http://www.directtools.com/store/Ball_Bullet_Catches.html

[mkb]

Zenwood,

Fantastic photo series.:2tsup:

As for hinges & latches James Krenov (http://jameskrenov.com/work/1105.htm) might have some useful ideas...:photo3: His cabinets tend to open fully, but have overhanging tops & bottom, so might not fit in with your design

[zenwood]

As for hinges & latches James Krenov (http://jameskrenov.com/work/1105.htm) might have some useful ideas...
Thanks mkb. Those Krenov cabinets look really nice, though I wonder how those solid doors handle expansion. I couldn't see any catches at all. Do you know what he uses? Hidden magnets?

[woodbe]

Magnets would be good, some of those tiny, powerful jobs. ?Berilium or something. Anyway, you could drill a small hole in the top of the door and the frame, put a magnet in each and the door would hold like magic with no contact. I guess you could even hide the magnet behind a plug, they're very powerful...

Great series zenwood.

Edit: Neodymium is what I was thinking. If you look on Jaycar.com.au, and search for rare earth magnet, they have some, but the smallest diameter is 10mm I've seen smaller diameters, but can't remember where...

[Iain]

Look on ebay under rare earth magnets, I bought a pack of 100 6x6mm epoxy coated cylinders for about $20, if hiding them in the timber I would use one either side just to ensure they grip, but they are certainly powerful little beasties.
Can't remember who I got them from but it was a Qld based company, took a few days to arrive but I suspect he sells a hell of a lot.
(Ensure you put north to south unless you want to confuse SWMBO:wink: )
Just had a look, http://cgi.ebay.com.au/10-x-Disc-Neodymium-Rare-Earth-Magnets-20mm-x-5mm_W0QQitemZ290070205461QQihZ019QQcategoryZ105829QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem is the seller I got mine from

[zenwood]

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[scooter]

Zen, just worked my way through the entire thread, and viewed & examined every pic.

Thanks for the effort, mate, the pics are sharp & clear, & the comments on each one clarify what you're doing. It's a lot of work doing a WIP thread, so more power to yer arm. :)

Good to see you putting up your stuffups & how you're fixing them - helps us all learn.

Well done with the sliding tapered d/t, velly velly patient!

Rare earth magnet/s in plugged holes would be the go I reckon. For the hinges for your inset doors, what about these? (http://images.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/product/501364_front200.jpg&imgrefurl=http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/74-465-standard-cabinet-hinges/inset-hinge-without-spring-501364.aspx&h=200&w=200&sz=6&hl=en&start=1&tbnid=0Tj3B6z4cnr7vM:&tbnh=104&tbnw=104&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dinset%2Bhinge%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26safe%3Doff%26sa%3DG) Don't take my word for it though, ask someone who knows what they're talking about :D


Keep it coming, mate....................cheers................Sean

[zenwood]

Thanks for the encouraging words Sean. I need all the help I can get to get me out in the shed: so little time!!!!

I think I'm leaning towards this kind of ball catch: adjustable catching strength, unobtrusive, and easy to install:http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/hardware/catchesandlatches/00w1200s.jpg

I've also got hold of some very nice hinges, though they won't alleviate the problem I've identified, being just plain flat leaf hinges of high quality. Might just have to live with a loss of space at the extremities of the shelves.

[Harry72]

Yep ball catches are easy to install... just remember to mount them vertical not horizontal on upright doors, otherwise the arc of the door swing will stop it shutting DAMHIKT!

[zenwood]

I was intending to install them horizontally just underneath the middle shelf. I've got nowhere to install them vertically:( I did a drawing, and the maximum lateral displacement for a door 330 mm wide opening out by 5 mm (my estimate of the radius of the ball bearing) is about 0.5 mm. Are they that precise that the arc of the door affects their operation?

[Waldo]

G'day Zenwood,

A superb thread and as Sean has posted your pics with copy in them are fantastic.

Re: the the ball/catches, I chose to go with the 49mm, which I'm guessing in your pic is D. I thought of going for the larger size, E, but thought that they may be to obtrusive. This thinking is based on a project I am making which will have doors via frame & panel 450x900x16 made of T/Oak fixed to a carcass of T/Oak 450x900x95.

Would you go size D or E?

Doors will be fitted to a 2nd larger carcass with piano hinges.

[zenwood]

Cheers, Waldo.

I'm thinking of the smallest size catch (A) for my cabinet. Here (http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=40618&cat=3,41399,41405)are the sizes in the pic:

A. 38mm x 7mm
B. 43mm x 8mm
C. 50mm x 9mm
D. 60mm x 11mm
E. 70mm x 13mm

[Paws]

How about using a single ball catch, which is mounted underneath the door? I haven't used any of these myself but have seen them used on good quality hand made furniture and thought they looked quite classy. I'm not sure if Wilson and Bradley would sell them in small numbers but maybe they do. You can see what i mean at www.wilbrad.com.au/catalog/063.pdf (http://www.wilbrad.com.au/catalog/063.pdf)

[zenwood]

How about using a single ball catch
Thanks, Paws. Those single ball catches are an option, but the strike plate would be visible from the front, wouldn't it?

[Paws]

I didnt notice how much the front of the strike plate sticks out until you mentioned it. When I've seen them installed in cabinets I havent noticed the strike plate sticking out. I think if I used them I would remove most of the strike plate so that you couldnt see the brass when the door was shut especially if the door is flush with the bottom of the cabinet. You could also mount the catches on the top of the door if this was going to be less noticeable. Recessing the striking plate into the wood will also make it look less noticeable.

[Paws]

Actually these catches look better but dont know where you'd get them in Australia.


http://www.whitechapel-ltd.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=wc&Category_Code=ballcth

[Al B]

A superb thread and as Sean has posted your pics with copy in them are fantastic.

As Waldo and Scooter have said Thanks for sharing your WIP with us. Well done mate. :2tsup:

[Shannon]

Hey there Zenwood - this is a truely inspiring unit.

Sure helps to inspire me to build something a bit more fancy than the run of the mill types. Thanks for the datail too.

[Bwillie]

This a great WIP. Having just completed my project, I know what it takes to make the project and then post it.

Can't wait to see the final product.

ICN,

Bill

[gthome]

:aussie5:

Zenwood

I too am grateful that you have taken the time to document the journey. I have learnt more in this one thread than I have from some very large wood working books. With your thoughts in the photo's, it's like we are looking over your shoulder as you work.

Thank you. I hope we get to follow you for the rest of this journey.

:) :cool: :2tsup: :U :thewave:

[zenwood]

An up-coming step will be to cut grooves in the sides of the door frame in which to insert the raised panels. I've had just enough shed time over the past few days to do some calculations of wood movement so I can cut the right sized groove to allow expansion.

[DJ’s Timber]

Yeah 3mm & 5mm add up to 8 not 7

[zenwood]

Yeah 3mm & 5mm add up to 8 not 7Cool! The forum comes good again. . . .

but what about the other mistake?;)

[zenwood]

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[zenwood]

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[zenwood]

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[zenwood]

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[zenwood]

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[zenwood]

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[zenwood]

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[zenwood]

I made the decision. It's a lot easier to do this now than when the doors are assembled. I'm shellacking the insides of the frames, as well as the panels. The pics are after the first rubbed-on application of (Ubeaut, of course) shellac. I love the way the colour leaps out of the wood when you apply the first coat of finish. From then on it slowly gets better, but there's nothing like the sudden bloom you get with the first coat.

The colours range from golden honey to an almost greenish copper.

[Bob Willson]

Hi Zen
How about this these types of catches.
Type 1 (http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=56383&cat=3,41399)
Type 2 (http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=40602&cat=3,41399,41403)
Type 3 (http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=40598&cat=3,41399,41403)

[zenwood]

Thanks Bob. Further food for thought.

Meanwhile, on to the pics . . .

[zenwood]

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[zenwood]

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[zenwood]

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[zenwood]

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[zenwood]

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[Paws]

I am very much enjoying this thread. After reading about the earlier stages of your project I decided to turn my current project - a wall mounted bookcase/display unit - into a slow and careful learning experience. It is nice to be making something that I am proud of [so far]. Thanks for the inspiration.

[zenwood]

I'm glad you're enjoying the thread, Paws.

"Slow and careful learning" is my approach exactly. Still manage some spectacular stuff-ups though -- like putting a gauge line on the OUTside of the carcase instead of the inside. And the documentation process adds to the time too. But it's enjoyable, and I'm in no particular rush . . .

[JDarvall]

Arrived late. Looks good. Pinch my text on photos idea I see... :D

Whats that rolled looking bit of paper thing hanging out of the router some pages back. Guessing its a dust extraction thing. Never seen that before.

Also, whats your take on using a brad point bits.... think I saw regular twist bits used for the shelf supports....When I saw the tape I first thought it was to help reduce the tear some twist bits do to the surface.

Like the way you showed filling that knot. I've never really worked out the best way.....What I do mostly is, sive sawdust from under my table saw of the dust from the timber I'm filling mostly,,,,,mix with aruldyt usually. (cheap $2 stuff usually:roll: not the best cause it captures bubbles) and fill with that....then plane over....actually scrap with a #80 I've found better.

Really enjoyed your series of photo's. You've made it an easy read. I think thats most important (even if you did pinch my idea :~:U :; ) .

When you gonna detail that impossible dovetail with texted photos. :U

[zenwood]

Great minds think alike, eh apricot?

The dust extraction on the router is a piece of clear plastic rolled into a cone and wrapped with sticky tape: it adapts the diameter from the dust extraction fitting on the router to the size of my vacuum cleaner. It's clamped on both ends with hose clamps.

I used brad point bits for the shelf suppports: I always prefer them if I have the right size. The tape was only to make the marking out easier to see.

I'm pretty happy with the casting resin to fill the holes. The black colour looks good and it seems to plane/scrape OK.

All necessary detail has already been given in the impossible dovetail thread, and I think you already know the solution.:)

[JDarvall]

Great minds think alike, eh apricot?

no. you just pinched my idea. You read one of my threads, and thought that you might try that too......go on, admit it. :D Not that I'm saying there's something wrong with that. I'm forever using others ideas.



The dust extraction on the router is a piece of clear plastic rolled into a cone and wrapped with sticky tape: it adapts the diameter from the dust extraction fitting on the router to the size of my vacuum cleaner. It's clamped on both ends with hose clamps.

I used brad point bits for the shelf suppports: I always prefer them if I have the right size. The tape was only to make the marking out easier to see.

I'm pretty happy with the casting resin to fill the holes. The black colour looks good and it seems to plane/scrape OK.

I think that dust extractions clever.
I didn't realise you used bradpoints.
Agree the casting resin looks good too. Bloody knots. Hate the things. Prefer to cut them out if I can.



......and I think you already know the solution.:)

nup.:D just not clever enough for that. Some kind of word game going on that I'm not just wired to understand.

[Paws]

Zenwood, I have also found that being slow and careful with my woodwork does not preclude mistakes. Yesterday my 13 year old dog had to have an operation and since my mind was elsewhere for much of the day I managed a dumb mistake of the mis-measuring then cutting kind. My dog survived the operation, though, so the day could have been much worse! Woodworking is definitely a good meditation. It is always easy to tell when your mind has wandered while you are working, and there is nothing like a sharp and dangerous tool to help focus your attention!

I noticed in one of your recent pictures that you have shellaced parts of your cabinet but have managed to keep the shellac off where the joins are. Did you do this with masking tape or some other method? And what would happen to the shellac if it got glue on it? I am not sure how I will finish my current project but since it is rather complicated I am thinking of finishing parts of it before I put the whole thing together.

[zenwood]

Woodworking is definitely a good meditation. ...

Did you do this with masking tape or some other method? And what would happen to the shellac if it got glue on it?
Yes: the zen of wood is what I strive for. I'm yet to achieve satori:)

I used masking tape to mask the areas from being shellacked. My main concern was to keep shellac out of the parts that will be glued -- dovetails, etc.

Should be easy to clean the glue off the shellacked parts is that is a problem: do it quickly so the water in the glue doesn't turn it white.

I think for some projects, it's far easier to apply finish before assembly, as long as your careful with the application, and use masking tape, etc.

[Mattsplatt]

Hi Zenwood,

Great pictorial coverage of your project!! Gives more than a lot to aspire to!!! (The project too!!!)

Quick question if I could?? What is the resin that you use?? I like the transparent kind of glow that it has!!!

I think from memory that "Blackwood Dust" is particularly nasty :oo: (but isn't it all??), I was wondering what sort of measures you are taking to protect your lungs?? Main reason I ask is that I am working on suitable DC systems for myself!

Thanks in advance!!!!

[zenwood]

I use Diggers (http://www.diggersaust.com.au/catalogue/index.html)casting and embedding resin. It is a styrene and polyester resin available in two parts from Bunnings.

http://www.diggersaust.com.au/prodimages/FIE00506.jpg

Details of my dust collecting system are shown here (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=27501). It still works extremely well. My shed is also equipped with a rotating roof vent, and when I'm doing very dusty work like routing I open a couple of windows.

[Waldo]

G'day Zenwood,

A question regarding the resin.

I have some large (650mm) F clams and their wooden handles are about to let go. I've been toying with the idea of turning some new woodedn handles or make some by resin. So your last post is very timely. Would you consider the Diggers resin suitable for this?

[zenwood]

Would you consider the Diggers resin suitable for this?

Sorry Waldo, I have no experience turning this resin, so can't comment.

[Waldo]

G'day Zenwood,

My question must've been vauge.

Would this resin be suitable for casting a handle and stand up to the stresses of clamping?

[zenwood]

I should think so Waldo. One of its applications is to make those big transparent blocks with a coin or insect embedded inside, so it should be able to act as a clamp handle. However I'd be a bit concerned about its brittleness: it may shatter if dropped or knocked heavily. It's probably not very scratch resistant on its own either, but this would only be a cosmetic concern.

If I were you, I think I'd be turning new handles out of wood.

Having said that, I believe there are techniques for impregnating layers of cloth with resin (one of the forumites does this for pen turning). That would give you a unique clamp handle.

[Waldo]

G'day Zenwood,

Thanks for that, wood it is - now where to get some. I've got some small slabs of Jarrah which I could laminate to get a handle out of, but I think something more of a hardwood would be more desireable.

[DJ’s Timber]

What sizes do you need Waldo? Got plenty of offcuts here that would probably be about the right size.

[Waldo]

G'day Djstimber,

Have replied to your PM. :2tsup:

[Mattsplatt]

I use Diggers (http://www.diggersaust.com.au/catalogue/index.html)casting and embedding resin. It is a styrene and polyester resin available in two parts from Bunnings.

http://www.diggersaust.com.au/prodimages/FIE00506.jpg

Details of my dust collecting system are shown here (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=27501). It still works extremely well. My shed is also equipped with a rotating roof vent, and when I'm doing very dusty work like routing I open a couple of windows.

Thanks Zenwood, your font of knowledge is greatly appreciated!!!

[zenwood]

a.