Recycled Jarrah

[Ticky]

I have been promising my little girl, a stand for her Hermit Crap tank, so the other day I finally got around to making it for her. I had a few Jarrah Pallet bearers that a mate got for me so I used 2 of them & made this little stand.

I am happy with the results, hope you like it as well.

Steve

[Wild Dingo]

Ticky mate shes a bobby dazzler! Well done! :2tsup: :2tsup:

man I hate it when someone makes them taped friggin legs on a table saw and Im havin trouble doin it!! :(( I try but for some weird reason the bloody wood just binds up and wont go all the way through maybe its got somethin to do with where Im locating the damned angled peice of timber Im tryin to use as a guide. :doh:

Anyway mate looks great and I bet the little one reckons its brilliant! Well done :cool:

[paul collins]

i bet she loves it.nice one mate,

[Redgy]

Nice job Ticky, it's great when you get freebie wood and can find a good use for it.

Reg

[la Huerta]

very nice work !!

any tips on where i can find some old jarrah , i'v never even seen this timber in the flesh but i think it's the ants pants...just love that color.

[Harry72]

Looks good Ticky.

la Huerta you live in Oz and never seen jarrah?

[fletty]

la Huerta, Im not sure where 'stink hole' is but, if it's western Sydney, I saw some beeeautiful jarrah in Mathews Timber at St Marys last week.

Ticky, love the stand!
Fletty

[Ticky]

Thank you all.

La Huerta - Jarrah gos fairly dark, even blackish if it is not oiled & left in the weather. Chances are you have walked on Jarrah many times as it was commonly used as door steps in older houses.

Wild Dingo - G'day mate, how you going. Thanks for your comments. I have included a couple of pics that might help you with the tappered legs. I'm not saying this is the best way to do it, as my last attempt was also my first attempt, but this is how I did it.

I started with 40 x 40 legs & wanted to set them down inside the skirt 10mm, so I sat them upside down in the frame on a 10mm block & marked where they met the bottom of the skirt.

I wanted to tapper down to 20 x 20, so I marked the bottom of the leg 20mm in from the edge.

Then I layed it on a scrap of MDF, linning up the 20mm mark with the corner of the MDF & the first line with the edge (see pics 2 & 3. bit blurry.)& drew a pencil line along the leg on the MDF.

Next I found a scrap of timber & layed it along the pencil line & wacked in a few nails with the nail gun. I glued & screwed a stop on the end & that was my jig. The last thing I did was turn the MDF around & set the fence to a nice round figure, in this case, 200mm. Now to use it, I just set my fence to 200mm & Bob's your shirt liftin cuz.

Pic 1 shows the jig with the angle of the tapper.
Pic 2 & 3 shows where the tapper starts is where the material meets the edge of the MDF.
Pic 4 shows the angle of cut.

Remember to put a block under the tapper for the second cut. I made a block from the first off cut.

Steve

[la Huerta]

hey your right now i think of it i had some jarrah strips on an outdoor setting...but just plantation stuff...what i'm really in love with is the recycled jarrah and also the the slabs of cause, seen heaps on the web but all have been in it's home state of WA, the darker the better, just awsome...

don't mean to but in to your tapering but i have a jig i made for that that can taper a leg so fast, easy and safe, you'd be tapering stuff just for the fun it...

...as it's 1am i'll have to continue later...

[zenwood]

The stand looks really good.

All the tapering jigs I've seen have the piece angled so that the cut starts at the thick end, rather than the thin end. Does yours tend to pull the workpiece out of the jig?

[la Huerta]

morn'n Zenwood...

the one i use sits on a little plywood sled and the piece that is needed to keep the job angled is adjustable for different size tapers and there is also a wood clamp, the whole thing slides in the mitre slot and is nice and safe and doesn't shift or want to pull away like you said...

i'll do the pics for everyone today if you like...

[Ticky]

All the tapering jigs I've seen have the piece angled so that the cut starts at the thick end, rather than the thin end. Does yours tend to pull the workpiece out of the jig?

G'day Zen,

I didn't have any problems with this, but I should point out that I felt one of those over centre hold down clamps would have been good. That said, as I was telling WD, this was my first attempt at tappering legs, so if the norm is to start at the thick end, then I certainly would not try to say that my way is better. As with most of my woodwork, I just make it up as I go along & my main aim is to be able to count my mistakes at the end of each day.

Steve

[la Huerta]

hey guys...here are a few pics of the sliding adjustable production tapering jig...sounds fancy hey!

#1 (http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f66/casitas/2006_0506white0007.jpg)

#2 (http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f66/casitas/2006_0506white0006.jpg)

#3 (http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f66/casitas/2006_0506white0004.jpg)

#4 (http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f66/casitas/2006_0506white0003.jpg)

[zenwood]

Looks great. Only thing I can think of would be to put a clamping point somewhere along that arm other than at the pivot point, so that it applies pressure to the workpiece. A bit of T-track in the base and a bolt through the arm into the T-track would do it.

Thanks for the pics. Might inspire me to make one, rather than just attacking square legs with a plane.

[BobR]

Nice work - the stand looks great.

[la Huerta]

Looks great. Only thing I can think of would be to put a clamping point somewhere along that arm other than at the pivot point, so that it applies pressure to the workpiece. A bit of T-track in the base and a bolt through the arm into the T-track would do it.


no need to, it clamps the workpiece so tight it ain't going anywhere, nothing moves at all......

the spaner is there becuase my wooden toggle broke, this jig is actually a few years old and has done dozens of legs...

when your doing a taper, you simple need to mark the bottom and top points of the tapper on the workpiece and then position it on the edge of the ply as it's a zero clearance, then slide the edge guide over and lock it in place, clamp the piece and make a cut and then loosen the clamp rotate the workpiece, clamp and cut again...perfect tapers everytime and you can just keep going and going anf going and do as many as you like, takes about 10sec a cut...

...La H:2tsup:

[woodworrier]

Nice lil' jig.

Way I see it, your design would allow for starting either end of the taper.

BTW, luv the view of the chinee safety boot (sans toecap) in pic #1.

woodworrier
currently busy worrying steel channel into shed frames.
...............................................


no need to, it clamps the workpiece so tight it ain't going anywhere, nothing moves at all......

the spaner is there becuase my wooden toggle broke, this jig is actually a few years old and has done dozens of legs...

when your doing a taper, you simple need to mark the bottom and top points of the tapper on the workpiece and then position it on the edge of the ply as it's a zero clearance, then slide the edge guide over and lock it in place, clamp the piece and make a cut and then loosen the clamp rotate the workpiece, clamp and cut again...perfect tapers everytime and you can just keep going and going anf going and do as many as you like, takes about 10sec a cut...

...La H:2tsup: