Best Tool

[DIY DAN]

What's the best tool for shaping the inside of small vessels, like say a goblet. Had a lot of trouble getting a good finish on the inside of a goblet, mostly because the space was nearly all taken up by the tool rest.

All suggestions welcome.

DIY DAN

[Cliff Rogers]

Trained termites, if you can get them. :D

I use a Vermec Hollowing tool which is a very small angled scraper.

I sand with a bit of velcro backed paper stuck to a pad sticthed to the forefinger of a cotton glove. I slacken the drive belt off & run at very low speed so I don't tear my finger off. :wink:

[mick61]

G`day i use a scraper. It consists of a round cutter attached to a square section of steel i have ground down one of the corners and put a bolt through the tip. This means that when the tool is laying on the tool rest the cutter is sitting at 45 degrees at all times, i hope that makes sense i will send a pic when i have one on the comp.


p.s I hollow with a spindle gouge first.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

A bowl gouge gives the best finish when there's room to wield it. When there's not, I fall back to using a scraper in shear mode. The absolute last resort is a scraper in scraping mode.

The amount of sanding required seems to increase inversely proportionally to the amount of room you actually have to work in! :(

[TTIT]

p.s I hollow with a spindle gouge first.
One day I'm gonna get someone to show me how thats done:unsure:. Never have been able to work it out and the couple of times I've tried it have been disastrous :stretcher:.
I use a Sorby hollower for nearly everything up to about 4" deep.

[hughie]

For me if its an open bowl type, then its the bowl gouge. Enclose forms are another matter all together.
Depending on timber type etc I will use a Munro or Proforme type, then a scraper in shear mode followed by a light scrape with a dia close to the bowl shape or form.

I agree with Skew: it seems to be one of the immutable laws of vessel turning :U



The amount of sanding required seems to increase inversely proportionally to the amount of room you actually have to work in! :(


Thats life :C but if it was that easy everybody would be doing it :U

[Little Festo]

The small munroe tool is great. It has a tungsten carbide cutter and cuts well without little/no tearout. As always sharp cutters work best, with the munroe tool the cutter can be "rotated' in the tip to expose a sharp section of the cutter disk so a cutter can have several sharp cutting zones. Will also remove waste quickly but the cutter assembly can clog a bit on some timbers but quite east to clean. I use it mainly for when i have a recessed rim.

Peter

[ss_11000]

One day I'm gonna get someone to show me how thats done:unsure:. Never have been able to work it out and the couple of times I've tried it have been disastrous :stretcher:.

\
hey vern

go to http://marleyturned.com/id110.htm to see a gobled turned. it shows how they hollow them out. might not be any help to ya but its a good site to have a look around on

cheers

[Simomatra]

\
hey vern

go to http://marleyturned.com/id110.htm to see a gobled turned. it shows how they hollow them out. might not be any help to ya but its a good site to have a look around on

cheers

Thanks Stirlo

Great learning link for me

[TTIT]

\
hey vern

go to http://marleyturned.com/id110.htm to see a gobled turned. it shows how they hollow them out. might not be any help to ya but its a good site to have a look around on

cheersThanks for the link Stirlo - makes it look easy - will have to have another go at it.:;

[OGYT]

Mick61, it's pretty dangerous to hollow with a spindle gouge, I've heard. They say they break pretty easy with a good catch.
Stirlo, thanks for the link.
DIYDan, if your goblet's small as your toolrest, you might be able to pull the toolrest out of the goblet, and just reach in toward the bottom with a small gouge... sort of like the video in Stirlo's link.
If you don't have anything else, an Oland style scraper turned at a 45 degree angle, and cutting above center will do some good cuttin'.
But I go along with Hughie on the Munro tool... it's a gem of a cutter for hollowing.

[TTIT]

They say they break pretty easy with a good catch.

You been spyin' on me Al ??????:;

[hughie]

[You been spyin' on me Al ??????:;
[/QUOTE]


Ho Ho ! mine didnt break, bent like a coat hanger...:~ still it was a wonderful bit of cardio work out :U

[PAH1]

Mick61, it's pretty dangerous to hollow with a spindle gouge, I've heard. They say they break pretty easy with a good catch.
Stirlo, thanks for the link.
DIYDan, if your goblet's small as your toolrest, you might be able to pull the toolrest out of the goblet, and just reach in toward the bottom with a small gouge... sort of like the video in Stirlo's link.
If you don't have anything else, an Oland style scraper turned at a 45 degree angle, and cutting above center will do some good cuttin'.
But I go along with Hughie on the Munro tool... it's a gem of a cutter for hollowing.

In spindle work, I back hollow using a spindle gouge, simple and safe enough with practice. The worst that has ever happened is that the piece came out of the chuck, and that was when I was learning to do it. It does help to have someone who actually knows how to do it show you, in canberra richard raffan can demonstrate it pretty well. When done with that I use a heavy duty scraper then finally sandpaper.

[rodent]

What kind of spindle gouge are you guys using ??? i use a henry 3/8 or a p&n 16mm crumbs the other tool i use for end grain is a sorby tool 826h 45degree shear scraper my only innovation is to put a monro cup cutter in place of the round scrapper . now it cuts like a ring tool with out the catches .

[Hardenfast]

Skew, can I continue my unquestioned naivety and ask what is the difference between "Shear mode" and "Scraper mode" when using your scraper?

Also, I know they've probably been show here before, but does anyone have photos (or maybe a link) of these wonderful hollowing tools (Vermec, Sorby, Monro, Oland etc)?

Many thanks. Wayne

[Cliff Rogers]

... but does anyone have photos (or maybe a link) of these wonderful hollowing tools (Vermec, Sorby, Monro, Oland etc)?...
You will find the Vermec one here (http://www.vermec.com/id1.html).

You'll also find a bit more info & some pics here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=48021).

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Skew, can I continue my unquestioned naivety and ask what is the difference between "Shear mode" and "Scraper mode" when using your scraper?

OK, in scraper mode the tool is held flat on the rest, pointing down (ie. handle end higher than toolrest) right?

When shear scraping, the tool is rolled over so that the cutting edge is presented at about 45°-50° to the grain you're cutting and is generally done with the tool pointing up (ie. handle end lower than toolrest.) Note the use of the word "generally." For spindle work it's still handle up, but most shear scraping is done inside bowls and handle down is easier. :wink: Mind you, at no time does the tool point towards incoming wood... it's still scraping so the point can't dig in. (Hope that's clear... words fail me. :rolleyes:)

A sharp tool is needed and only a featherlight touch... you know when you've got it right because the shavings are very light, whiskery, "fly-away" type things instead of the ribbons you'd normally get.

Shear scraping's best suited to the final finishing cuts as it doesn't hog material out quickly and tends to follow any dips in the wood! You're better of using a normal scraper or bowl gouge to hog out material quickly and to get the interior walls as close as possible to final shape, then switching to shear scraping to remove any tear-out.

I think of it as the best alternative to 80 grit. :wink:

[joe greiner]

Skew, "shear scraping": That's about what I've thought you meant. Sort of halfway between scraping and slicing or paring. Like using a hand plane on the bias with flat work?

Joe

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Skew, "shear scraping": That's about what I've thought you meant. Sort of halfway between scraping and slicing or paring. Like using a hand plane on the bias with flat work?

Yes... but to be more accurate it's like using a scraper plane on the bias with flat work. :wink:

[Hardenfast]

Many thanks Skew, and Cliff. Most useful information.

Skew, I think I understand - I won't get to try it out until the weekend but it should be all good! I hope there's no "Shear Scrap....Damn!".

Cliff, checked out those sites - great resource & much appreciated. I'm slowly building my database of sites. So many tools..... so little money.........

[Cliff Rogers]

.... So many tools..... so little money.........
That was my point (sort of) here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=47789).