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Marc
3rd February 2007, 01:43 PM
After much debate...with myself.... I've decided that I should first build something small like the Simmons Seaskiff 18' before I tackle what I really want to see anchored on my local marina, that is the Jolly Roger... (yes the Noyo Trawler turned out to be a tad too small.)

So Simmons 18' it is, invited my 7yo grandson along for the ride. He comes every Friday for carpentry lessons, has built a toolbox a tool chest and a Lego table ( almost finished). So I will have some help he he.

Made some initial enquires about materials, have yet to receive the plans.
Discovered that we have a plywood manufacturer in Queensland, Plywood Services, that makes marine grade plywood out of plantation Hoop pine from Queensland and that will actually talk to you on the phone. (wow!) They also provide a treatment with some unknown concoction up to h3 and CA for h6.

Anyway....has anyone used marine hoop pine ply? What about treated?
What should I use for the frame of the skiff? Clear Oregon is a tad pricey at $3000 the m3 ...( and some ask $4300 !!)
Is it possible to find recycled Oregon suitable for boat construction? I use recycled Oregon for building all the time but it is full of holes and nails and knots.
Alternatively what do you suggest in new timber?
Someone told me to use Hoop pine, someone else in Queensland that is building a 55' displacement hull said use treated pine...uhuu, I almost fell over.
What do you think/suggest.

PS
How do you spellcheck on this forum? Can't even copy and paste the text out of the edit box, must post and then copy and paste...a lot of work and I am dislexic at typing keep on ytpign in the wrong oredr

Daddles
3rd February 2007, 02:56 PM
Hoop pine is a good marine ply. It used to be that hoop was two thirds the price of Gabboon but a third heavier, but it's been so long since I priced it that I can't comment accurately - it's certainly heavier than Gabboon but is great stuff to work with and good, consistent quality.

Midge apparently has a supplier of Gabboon at a very good price so a polite PM to him might be a good idea.

Framing? I'll let Mik answer that one. I bought oregon but wasn't planning something quite as large as yours. Having access to a table saw and thicknesser (I own a triton 2000 and a cheap Ryobi thicknesser) will save you heaps - you buy planks and turn them into what you need for free rather than paying someone to give you what turns out to be the wrong thing at an extortionate price. Seriously, for your uses, I'd buy a table saw and thicknesser before you start (it's about now you point out that you own a fully equipted workshop :roll:).

Richard

Marc
3rd February 2007, 06:55 PM
I agree on the machinery front.
I have most machines and powertools short of a bandsaw. That is probably the one I have to add to the collection. I've been reluctant to buy one mostly for lack of space. My workshop is very small. In fact in order to build the skiff I will have to make a radical clean up and relocation of a lot of stuff

Daddles
3rd February 2007, 11:48 PM
You can live without a bandsaw, but by cripes they make some things easy - my cheap and nasty GMC scroll saw just doesn't do the job properly. Amazing what you can achieve with a jigsaw and a few general purpose swear words though.

Richard

Marc
4th February 2007, 08:44 AM
Yes the jigsaw can be a form of substitute of the bandsaw to some extent.
Yet when it comes to cut one or two inches the blade wanders away from vertical almost every time even with new blades, the oscillating model helps a bit but not enough. The noise does not help either.
Once I cleared my shed of all the stuff that is not essential I suppose I can fit a nice 18" bsaw.

Pagie
6th February 2007, 07:30 PM
Marc, I used 1 inch treated pine for frames in my !8 ft Simmons, bit worried that the epoxy wouldn't stick but it has for about 5 years so far with no problems. http://farm1.static.flickr.com/52/161404616_330d632481_o.jpg

Marc
7th February 2007, 04:24 PM
Good job! So that guy I spoke to in Queensland who is building a 50 footer displacement hull and using treated pine was not crazy after all :U , I thought he was joking!

Which play did you use?
That frame design ( with the round holes) is
from the plans or your own creation?

Where is your steering placed, middle or forward?
Did you go for 15" stern, or higher for a long leg motor?

Pagie
7th February 2007, 11:02 PM
I used the standard plans from Dave Carnell. I have used both steering positions. Down the stern is too wet. I now have a centre console. The holes are mine, just for ventilation as I have the floor/deck? sealed and flotation under there.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/64/161404613_818c6592f1.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/55/132722431_bc3a6db080_o.jpg

I have a long shaft motor on now, a 25 Johnson so I think I have a 20 inch transom. I will measure it tomorrow. I used Pacific Maple marine ply on the Simmons, Good stuff. I just used Hoop Pine to replace a transom on o plastic boat for a friend and it is excellent stuff.http://farm1.static.flickr.com/158/382653748_1a71289f20_o.jpg

Marc
8th February 2007, 04:42 PM
Is that your boat? Wow good stuff...I thought I saw that picture somewhere.
Isn't it a bit tender to stand up at slow speed?

Pagie
9th February 2007, 09:13 PM
Yes that is my boat, took one winter to build. The primary stability is soft but I can stand on the side deck and can't push it under. I need a pier to do this as it is easy to fall off. Easy to land large fish, just pull the boat down to the water and pull the fish in.http://farm1.static.flickr.com/110/288395330_b020c1fec0_o.jpg Very able sea boat, it handles 1.5 mtr waves with ease. drifting for flathead in waves of that side feels very safe, but you have to hang on to walk around the console. http://farm1.static.flickr.com/133/354686477_5df7007c9f.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/71/219853730_8167dace00_o.jpg