Hole in the Head

[greenie512]

<o></o>Did I say head – I meant shed:U:U:U.
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I’m really happy with the Jet table saw I bought a while back. The only gripe I had then was the motor hanging out the back which meant I couldn’t push the unit flush against the wall. At the time someone mentioned cutting a hole in the wall which was something I just couldn’t contemplate.
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In a moment of boredom this morning I got the grinder out and did just that. Box needs priming and painting and the flashing bent down plus a swipe with the sealant gun.
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The TS is parked against the wall and pulled out into the centre of the shed for use. Next shed project will be build a “high” workbench over the TS parked position

[MajorPanic]

Bloody well done!! http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon14.gif

I need to do that in a few places in my shed, would help with the lack of space problem. :roll:

[jugglingogre]

Where's the sawdust and chips and mess and all the other guff that goes with a well used work area?

You sure you use that shed and it's not just your "photoshop"?:D

Good stuff. Gives me ideas about making holes in my shed.


Cheers

Pete

[pawnhead]

I got myself a plasma TV using the same technique (http://zinzi.us/files/images/ghetto1.jpg). :wink:

[Tex79]

Hi Greenie,

Great idea. I noticed that you have a panel covering the back of the Saw. Are you able to post a pic or two of your mod. please?
Do you find that it makes an improvement on the dust collection capabilities of the DC unit?
I have the same saw and have been considering implementing a mod of this type too. Sorry, it's a bit off topic.

Cheers,

Evan

[greenie512]

Evan- no problem hopefully these 4 pics will explain
Pic 1 - rear of table with panel - explained below
Pic 2 - front of saw with another "stop-off" panel
Pic 3 - always cover T/S surface with a bit of masonite when not in use. As I'm always using as a "surface" this keeps everything protected.
Pic 4 - rear panelI use far too much MDF so control of the fine dust is paramount for my health (I'm slightly asthmatic). The blue plastic panel is simply the base of a cheap container from Bunnies that I had lying around after chopping up the rest of the box for another job. It turned out just right as there's "bits" at the top of the rear that cause the back not to be perfectly flush so the plastic "flips/bents" over these bits.

Does this make much difference, currently only a minor amount (but worthwhile) - not much shots out the rear. There's still huge gaps where the tabletop sits on the pressed metal body - this is Phase 2 that I am still pondering on. I have a nasty feeling I'm going to have to cut individual filler pieces there (yuk).

Of course if I need to do an angled cut both panels have to be removed but as I don't do this too often this isn't a problem for me.

[Tex79]

Thanks for the quick relpy and great photo's Greenie.
You've shed a lot of light on the topic for me. I think the masonite cover over the top is a great idea and I think I might have to follow suit. I usually cover the saw with a tarp at the end of the day and especially when it rains as my shed isn't the most water proof! but i like the idea of the added protection.
The rear cover looks very straight forward. I might try something like it too with some left over masonite. I can see the probm with the gaps under the table top. Maybe some high density foam cut well over size and "Jammed" into the gaps might work. Just a thought.
Thanks again.

Evan

[BobL]

. . . .
In a moment of boredom this morning I got the grinder out . . . .

Know exactly what you mean ;-), and any tale that starts like that is gotta be worth a greenie!