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Gil Jones
14th February 2007, 07:36 AM
171.45mm hi x 88.9mm wide (6.75" hi x 3.5" wide).
355.6mm hi x 114.3mm wide (14" hi x 4.5" wide).
Both are Black Cherry, polished with EEE Ultra Shine, buffed, and waxed.
The tall one was to be a lamp for Bunny, but I cut the top to narrow getting rid of a crack, so it is also a dry flower vase. Each is bored with a 3/8" (9.525mm) bit, not hollowed.

RufflyRustic
14th February 2007, 08:21 AM
Lovely work, Gil!

cheers
Wendy

DJ’s Timber
14th February 2007, 09:23 AM
They look good Gil, but don't forget to start another lamp for Bunny

lubbing5cherubs
14th February 2007, 10:08 AM
very nice
Toni

WillyInBris
14th February 2007, 10:11 AM
Hi Gill
Just a question from a newb, is it possible to hollow out something like this and if so how would it be done?

rodent
14th February 2007, 11:18 AM
do it from the base then plug the hole.ask skew for a more articulate answer .

Gil Jones
14th February 2007, 12:18 PM
NARROW NECK VASE
Carl Schneider February 2003

1) Turn a cylinder 12”long, 5” diameter (or to your design) with a 3” chucking tenon at each end. The neck end of the vase should be free of knots and mounted in the chuck.
2) Mark the circumference 2” from the base end. Make a jig that fits in the tool rest to hold a pencil point at center height. Using a headstock indexing mark a horizontal line at the center height the full length. This will be used for later alignment of the plug.
3) To the left of the 2” mark turn a gap 0.5” wide to a diameter of 3” for a tenon and part and saw off on the right side of it. Save this for the plug.
4) Drill a 1/2” to 1” diameter hole in the remaining blank to a depth including the tenon equal to the desired height of the base.
5) Reverse the cylinder and drill a 3/8” hole through to meet the first hole.
6) Reverse cylinder again (use an optional steady rest) and bring up the tail center for centering and support. Before tightening the chuck use the indexing pin and pencil holder for positioning on the mark. On the tail stock end turn the shape of the base leaving a 2” diameter flat on the bottom and thick to the left side for support during hollowing. Refresh the alignment mark across the base.
7) True the bottom and enlarge the hole to 1.5”. Hollow the base to a wall thickness of approximately 3/8” with a taper at the neck end
8) Square the inside wall of the hole in the bottom to accept the plug.
9) Mount the plug piece in the chuck using the index pin, pencil holder and previous mark to position it and true the face.
10) Turn a 3/8” long spigot to fit snuggly into the bottom of the base and refresh the alignment mark up to the tenon. Apply glue to the base and plug, fit them together using the pencil marks for alignment and clamp them using the tailstock. I prefer carpenter’s type glue but it needs to be clamped for an hour and takes 8 hours to harden. CA glue is fast and can be used but it doesn’t hold as well and it stains.
11) After allowing time to harden check the strength of the glue joint. With tailstock support reduce the diameter of the cylinder to half and turn the outside top 1” of the neck. Remove the tail center, install a steady rest (optional), and turn and sand the inside of the neck to 400 grit.
12) Bring up the tail center with a soft pad into the neck hole. Complete turning the neck tapering from both ends to the middle to no less than ½” diameter and sand to 400 grit.
13) Partially part off a slightly concave bottom at the glue joint. Remove enough wood from the area near the chuck to allow a finish cut with a skew or detail gouge. Sand to 400 grit. Scribe two grooves on the bottom, one at the glue line and the other at least ¼” away.
14) Continue parting to ¼”, cut the remainder with a saw, remove the nub with a chisel, sand and inscribe your name.
15) Finish with Danish Oil, Wiping Poly or Lacquer.

WillyInBris
14th February 2007, 01:56 PM
Thanks Gil,

Will add that info to my notes.


Willy