Installing a front door [Archive]

mickem

15th February 2007, 10:03 PM

Carpenter

17th February 2007, 12:24 PM

Hi all,

Im looking for some info to help me install a new front door. Any advice on any of the following would be greatly appreciated.

* If Im going to stain the jamb to match the door, how do I hide any screw/nail fixings from the installation of the jamb without the need for wood putty, given the jamb is rebated and I dont require adding a door stop (which would have subsequently eliminated this problem).

I like to use screws, they enable you to make adjustments to the plumb & straight of the jambs. Use a counterbore ( a hole the same diameter as the plug you will use) to make a hole that will recess the screw head then once its all good, use a plug cutter (in a drill press) to cut plugs that will fill the hole. Sounds like a lot of work, but screws are the only way to get it perfect & using the plugs is the best cover up.

* When installing a side panel / sidelight, whats the best method of fixing the panel to the stiles/ and should this be done once the jamb is secured and plumb?

On the stile common to the panel & the door, glue & fix with nails or screws through the jamb on the door side into the panel. The other side you could do the same if you assemble the unit before lifting it into place, otherwise just pre drill at a skew angle through the face & nail & fill. Make sure the jamb your nailing into is wedged hard against the panel or the nail will push it away as its going in.

* Should the side panel be positioned off the floor and on a timber footer type material (if you understand what I mean here?), or just fixed directly onto the floor? Could possibly be the same material used for the jamb?

Sounds like the whole thing should be made up as a single unit with a continuous hardwood sill. Get a longer piece of sill & fix the door jambs & panel jamb to it. Use a joint sealant like Sikaflex between the jamb stiles & the sill. These techniques will avoid waterproofing issues.

* If using a decorative glass panel instead of a timber side panel, would glazing putty be required when installing the glass, or can it just butt up into the beading?

Glazing silicone to the jamb/frame rebate, push in glass, more silicone then glazing beads pushed into & nailed in place. Do not touch the silicone until it has dried then clean up excess with razor blade. Or, you can use glazing putty.

* Are there any good web sites, or books available that could give me informative detail in relation to installation of doors?

Other than a websearch which should bring up something, the TAFE colledges have all the relevant stuff for apprentices & you should find something in the carpentry section. It's a tricky job & I've develped my own techniques, but the main ones are;

# use a full length level (2000mm) or straight edge with a 1200mm level
# cut the hinge mortices in the door & in the door jamb before assembling the jamb. Hinge positions 200mm down from the top of the door (then hinge), 250mm from bottom & one inbetween the two.
# most hinges dont allow enough of a set (the space between the flaps when they're folded) & this determines the gap between the door & the jamb. Therefore, when you cut the hinge mortices, dont go so deep as to make the hinge leaves flush with the surface, I'm talking small tolerances here, maybe 0.5 - 1 mm. You want a gap around the door of 2.5 - 3 mm.
#sit the unit in place & make sure it sits level.
# if possible, fix the hinged stile in place first. Make sure its plumb, use packers (I have a range of packing material ranging from 10, 5, 3 , 1.5 , & for fine adjustment plastic playing cards (these can also be used behind the hinge to make fine adjustments to the gap between the door & the jamb). When its plumb, screw the door in place & you can then use the door itself as the gauge, make sure the gap is good at the hinge stile first then fix it off well ( screwposition setout in jamb, off the floor - 100, 700, 1300, 100 from the top.) Use the door to check for square (gap at the top should be even as well) because you've used screws you can now make small adjustments to the jamb with your packers to get the door gaping well at the top.
# set hinge stile/jamb so its flush with the face of the wall surface at the top & bottom & the architrave will sit flat against the wall
# when it comes to positioning the lock stile (or in your case which ever stile will be fixed to the wall at the other side) it must be in wind (whynd), the vertical edge must be parallel to the hinge side. If this is not the case, when you close the door either the top or the bottom of the door will contact the rebate of the jamb first & you'll have to push & flex the door to get it to close. Use the door (provided its a good door) to get the entire lock side of the door to contact the rebate in the jamb at the same time. This will be correct wind.:2tsup: Good luck. Oh, this will take you more than a day, so get the unit built & set the hinges first (day 1) tackle the actual install allowing a whole day for that purpose.

If anyone could answer any or all of these questions would be of great help.

Thankyou