Lous Router Table Plans

[NewLou]

Gidday all

Well I'm at the design phase of my Router TAble n thought I'd go through how I go About this using sketchup.

THe first stage is designing the Top which more than anything else need to be dead flat. I go about this by laminating plastic laminate to a MDF substrate then mount this on to a torsion box .

I've been mulling over a few plans n have come up with what I think will be a real cracker. Fell free to make suggestions n the like as I go along.

I must note that I use version 5.0.149

Heres the Top

[NewLou]

I use the TApe Measure Tool A Lot to help with My dimensioning Heres the Beginnings of my Torsion Box Note where I have positioned the Phenolic Plate so that hopefully I get a sense of where it is and how to build the torsion box to accommodate it

[ozwinner]

Some ideas/thoughts.

Al :)

[NewLou]

Heres the beginnings of the frame for the torsion box. Notice the little rectangles I have drawn on the inside of the frame. All I simply do is use the measuring tool to work out the inside distance of the frame then use the push pull tool.

To get outstanding accuracy and for speed when using the push/pull tool all you have to do is click on the space that you want to expand (In my case the small rectangles I pointed out earlier) type in the inside distance of the frame (In this case 5820) in just like majic job done.

[NewLou]

I'm drawing this in real time so it gives you a good idea of how easy sketchup is to use. Heres the completed frame of the torsion box to be skinned in 18mm MDF

[NewLou]

Next thing I do is use the measuring tool to get the bearing for the phenolic insert. After I have done this I delete the picture of the plate then import a 3d model of the table top I drew earlier

[ozwinner]

Wow, Im impressed.

Al :2tsup:

[NewLou]

Heres a Pic from underneath the table top n torsion box before the bottom skin is put on I'm trying to work out the best way to support the phenolic plate?...................... I'm thinking a rabid or stable hardwood cleats

Any ideas?

REgards Lou :D:D:D:D:D

PS THx for the suggestions AL I unfortunately cant see them cause you have the latest version

[ozwinner]

I unfortunately cant see them cause you have the latest version


Download the latest version Lou, it dont cost a great deal..:U

Al :B

[ozwinner]

I have just seen the dimensions of the table Lou, I think it is way too big, the router bit will be 600mm from the user, so you will be stretching to use it, not good for the back or the fingers if you slip.

I think maybe 300mm from the user would be better.

Al :-

[NewLou]

Thats a really good point Al

I'll have a think about that one n see If I can come up with a solution

Just checked my dimensions AL got it at 1200 * 800 that would be 400 from the edge ..............What do you think?

REgards Lou:)

[ozwinner]

400mm is better, Im just going off the Triton table and its not that much of a stretch as your 600mm.

Al :)

[NewLou]

So far the largest Ive come across is 1100mm from PWS ill do some testing before I make a final decision n reckon its a great point you raised ie: Not setting up so ill end up dangerously stretching.

REgards lou:)

[McFly]

Hi Lou.
I have also found Sketchup a great designing tool. I like to draw in normal 1:1 scale. ( I took a second to click that your scale is 1:5:-), so all measurements made with the measuring tape tool don't need scaling:).
I have latest version too. I think it is version 6. You can convert your previous drawings from version 5 to v 6 but not back again.
I will adjust your drawing a little to show how you could support the plate.
Cheers, McFly

[ozwinner]

You need to get away from the 40mm torsion frame for the router to sit against, you are loosing 40mm of router bit protrusion. :o

You need to get the router base right up underneath the plate to get full advantage of the bit extension.

Al :)

[ozwinner]

All faults aside.

This is one magic program, and the price is right too.

Have you tried to publish your project to Google Earth, my fire place ended up on a roof in Seattle?? :doh:

Al :2tsup:

[NewLou]

I'm not sure that its clear but it is AL the base of the router sits flush against the phenolic plate

[ozwinner]

I'm not sure that its clear but it is AL the base of the router sits flush against the phenolic plate

Ok, cool..:cool:

Al :2tsup:

[ozwinner]

It looks better draw like this.

Sorry I play with plans all day and they become second nature.

Al :)

[Waldo]

G'day,

Oi! You lot! Can you upload your attachments as other than Sketchup diagrams that need Sketchup to open them. Yeah I know, download the ruddy thing, but I need OS 10.4.8 on my Mac to install it and 10.4.8 is flakey as.

So for those who don't have Sketchup how about it? OK, just checked my facts and I need 10.3.9 minimum, well I've got 10.4.6 so I'm set. But for those who don't have S/up I reakon my question still applies.

I'm interested in this thread of your NewLou as I'm about to finally get my hands on my Dad's Hittachi 1/2" router and I'm tossing the idea of buying a table (SWMBO will flip) or go for a home-built version.

[NewLou]

Heres the Skinned router table top & Baffle for Dust extraction

[martrix]

Can I make a suggestion.

Go into View>Edge style> un-click Profile.

It gets rid of the thick looking lines. Someone might also be able to tell me what the Profile option is for?

[NewLou]

Thx for that one MAtrix

Regards Lou:)

[NewLou]

Gidday:)

Well heres the Mk1 n yer I still got to design the Fence. Please feel free to make suggestions n chances I'm not sure I'm Happy with the shelving BUT love the Baffle n reckon It'll really enhance dust collection (Its design to accommodate a 4inch hose)

Regards Lou:D

[ozwinner]

but I need OS 10.4.8 on my Mac to install it and 10.4.8 is flakey as.



So buy a PC..:doh:

Sorry, I just couldnt help that.

Al :2tsup:

[Waldo]

G'day Al,

A PC? Stuff that. :q

Aw, NewLou, just when I've got Ketchup v6, you go and post a jpeg, now I can't zoom around and measure your ideas and pinch 'em. :(

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I'm assuming the small "shelving" on the castor end is to accomodate router bits?

I'd angle them forward by 30°-45° or thereabouts. Less dust builds up and what does can be quickly removed, the bits are more easily accessed and it allows for storage of particularly wide bit that wouldn't normally fit.

(I s'pose the above is as clear as mud? :rolleyes: But I couldn't be bothered reinstalling SkUp. :-)

[NewLou]

YUP!

Great Idea Skew I think its a top Idea n yer there for router bits n other do dads now I got to get onto the most important part....................

The Fence:oo:

REgards Lou:D:D:D

[NewLou]

G'day Al,

A PC? Stuff that. :q

Aw, NewLou, just when I've got Ketchup v6, you go and post a jpeg, now I can't zoom around and measure your ideas and pinch 'em. :(

Sorry Waldo the files to big now n the only way I can post the finished concept designs are in JPEG:doh:

Also heres how I do my Cutting List ..............(As I go along) N a great Word Template I use for recording Stock Lists etc. Hope you Find it as HAndy as I have

REgards Lou

[ozwinner]

Sorry Waldo the files to big now n the only way I can post the finished concept designs are in JPEG:doh:

Try again, I have uped the file size with Neils blessing.

Al :2tsup:

[NewLou]

Thx Al ...................I'll give her a crack next time I post the Pic

Regards Lou:)

[NewLou]

Gidday

Well heres my first prototype. Any suggestions feedback really appreciated. See if you can guess where the Fence adjuster comes from :)

REgards Lou

[black1]

have a look at the plans now site as they have a few router table plans. cost $ to buy but you can get design ideas from them. one site i was on said that you should have dust extraction only from the side as if it comes from the bottom it can stuff up the router.
lots of designs i saw had drawers for router bits. shut drawer no dust at all.
there are lots of picture out there to get idea from.

anyway bloody brilliant drawings ya have done.:cool:

(im cutting up a old kitchen bench to make mine) :cool:
( it has a 38mm laminex top and the cupboard underneath):cool:

cheers phil

[ivanavitch]

Al

To position your chimney at home you need to know your lat long.

Then

Open the xxx.kmz file that you used to load your model into google earth with winzip.

Open the file "doc.kml" with notepad. Something similar to that shown below will be displayed. Alter the lines
<longitude>152.705530</longitude>
<latitude>-27.622110</latitude>
to display your current lat, long

alter the line
<heading>150.0</heading>
to turn the model's heading

save and close the file and reopen in google earth.

rename the zip file to kmz.

I have attached a zip file that i made of an F-111 on the end of the strip at Amberley as an example. Remove the .zip extension to open in GE.





<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?>
<kml xmlns='http://earth.google.com/kml/2.1'>
<Placemark>
<name>f_111</name>
<description><![CDATA[Created with <a href="http://sketchup.google.com">Google SketchUp</a>]]></description>
<DocumentSource>SketchUp</DocumentSource>
<Style id='default'>
</Style>
<Model>
<altitudeMode>relativeToGround</altitudeMode>
<Location>
<longitude>152.705530</longitude>
<latitude>-27.622110</latitude>
<altitude>0.000000000000</altitude>
</Location>
<Orientation>
<heading>150.0</heading>
<tilt>0</tilt>
<roll>0</roll>
</Orientation>
<Scale>
<x>1.0</x>
<y>1.0</y>
<z>1.0</z>
</Scale>
<Link>
<href>models/f_111.dae</href>
</Link>
</Model>
</Placemark>
</kml>

[Waldo]

Also heres how I do my Cutting List ..............(As I go along) N a great Word Template I use for recording Stock Lists etc. Hope you Find it as HAndy as I have

REgards Lou

G'day NewLou,

Thanks, you go into more detail for a cutting list than I do, strewth. I just have a pad with sketches all over the joint with dimensions marked.

On your screw for adjusting the fence (I'll try and make this elgible to understand) it doesn't look like it allows for much movement with the part of the bed (dark blue) which is fastened to a piece of MDF, of which the screw is attached to.

Would it be better to have the screw fastened to the table top and having the main body of the bed/fence running in a track or similar? And then maybe a micro adjuster working in place of where the current screw is?

Not a critisim on your part at all, just wondering if all this might then give you more accessibility for larger pieces of stock that you may end up running through the table. :shrug:

But then, maybe I'm missing something which I can't see or I'm just missing something - this happens a lot. :U

[NewLou]

Hey Waldo

GReat ideas!....................

You can't see in the Pics I posted but the Fence will be fully adjustable.

N YUP I'm as we speak working on a Micro Adjustment System. This is Just the design concept. HAndy feedback like you've just given helps with the refinement stage.

The Mk2 will hopefully look more refined. Once Finished I'll Do a few Zooms n closeups of how everything works.

Am hoping you'll post a few PICS of your own design ideas!

REgards Lou:D:D:D

[Waldo]

G'day NewLou,

You're giving me plenty of ideas. no problem there. :2tsup:

Hopefully in the next few weeks I'll have my cabinet finished and can clear some room to start thinking about the router table, there'll be some pics of the table in Ketchup v6 if it doesn't look like a dogs breakfast.

[NewLou]

OK:D

Heres the Final Draft of my first Router Table Plan ...................... Not sure if I should put a mitre track in or not what are peoples experience with this?

Does a mitre sled come in handy or is the track just another thing to get in the road? n catch stock?

REgards Lou:D:D:D

[Waldo]

G'day NewLou,

I'd think a track with a mitre sled is a necessity.

Looking at you plans there I notice the fence falls full depth to the table. Wouldn't that limit how far the top bed can move along its track on the bottom bed? Or have I read it wrong, and your diagram is showing the limit to how far the top bed can travel back on its tracks along the bottom bed?

Another thing I've been wondering. The access for changing the router bits, which is enclosed in its space to fit a 4" house for the dusty. Will this be a tight fit for changing bits? Having seen Groggy's table I've been toying with the idea of also incorporating the router table so that it's hinged at one end, so that you just need to flip it open to easily access changing the bits. :shrug:

Keep it coming, other than the work I've got on right now (not shed related) it's keeping my brain ticking in all sorts of places. :2tsup:

[NewLou]

G'day NewLou,

I'd think a track with a mitre sled is a necessity.

Looking at you plans there I notice the fence falls full depth to the table. Wouldn't that limit how far the top bed can move along its track on the bottom bed?

YES thats spot on Waldo. The Top Bed of the TAble is for Micro Adjustment so you don't need to much movement space N the Bottom Bed of the table is for rough adjustment.

SO you'd roughly slide into place lock her down then fine tune with the Micro adjustment. This 'system' helps give great accuracy & is a tried n true method used by Pat Warner (Router Xpert)

Another thing I've been wondering. The access for changing the router bits, which is enclosed in its space to fit a 4" house for the dusty. Will this be a tight fit for changing bits?

The Fence is fully adjustable NS/EW See Pic for how much room you have for bit changes. I'll be using the little Triton in the TAble so Height adjustment & bit changes will all be done from the top of the TAble.

I havent thought too much about access space for Bit changes so it is a good point I've posted a PIC with the face of the table removed so that you can see the measurements
I believe theres more than ample room for bit changing............what do you think?



Also with the 4inch Hose component of the dust extraction system what I am trying to do is create a Baffle so that the Dusty really pulls out all the waste. I'm hoping under the table access to the Router will only be for maintenance purposes

REgards Lou:D:D:D

[Waldo]

G'day NewLou,

Looks good to me, but then I'm a boofhead at some things, so what do I know. :D

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Not sure if I should put a mitre track in or not what are peoples experience with this?

Does a mitre sled come in handy or is the track just another thing to get in the road? n catch stock?

I've found a mitre-sled can come in handy for some applications, but for me they're far and few between.

If I ever build my own router table I won't be putting the track in the table where, as you said, it can catch stock. Instead I'll be running lengths along the top of each fence and building the sled to suit. (Idea pinched from the Triton's TS fence. :-) The sled won't run from one track to t'other, of course, but it doesn't need to... only gotta push the piece past the router bit. :wink:

I reckon that having the track along the top of the fence may come in handy for mounting pressure fingers and the like, too.

[Waldo]

G'day NewLou,

Any more developments on the router? I'm flying up to Brissy this weekend to finally pick up my Hitatchi router :yippy: and a bunch of other stuff, so I'm getting closer to formulating my own table and it's always a great thing to be able to see how others do may do something differently which you mightn't have thought of etc.

[NewLou]

Hey Waldo!

Yer I got a few more ideas in the pipeline but all in the development stage (Mostly to do with dust extraction).

Other than a few minor tweaks here n there N perhaps the addition of an outfeed extension table you've pretty much seen the 'guts' of how I'm going about it.

I've decided not to put a miter guide in the tabletop N might add a few shelves. Be great to see a few posts of some of your ideas!

Regards Lou:wink:

[Waldo]

G'day NEwlOu,

No problems, let me get my cabinet out of the way and some time to stuff around with Ketchup and we may see some plans. :2tsup:

[NewLou]

Gidday :D

Just to shift direction (14 years down the track) I want to pay hommage to the origional inspiration for my Warner inspired design


Ive always been a great fan of the Late Pat Warner (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNhep95WNZQ&t=1690s) and his innovative Woodworking designs (https://nl.pinterest.com/pin/328340629054820495/) noting they are often under appreciated for their cutting edge design elements for the time

So Ive decided to revisit this build Now that Ive finally got my workbench here (https://www.woodworkforums.com/f213/redefining-aussie-workbench-27697/10#post2242135) and step into what will be the Heart of My Woodworking Sardine (Code for 1 Car Garage)

For the most part I'm going to try and stick to the spirit of Pats Design (https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/91409067424440851/) However I'll be using some Aluminium Angle


I dont recommend doing this the way I have which was Grab a bit and Go (Being an ex boiler make I'm quite confident around pushing the limits) that said...........................

This brings us to the dark art of fabricating aluminium and really the only way to do this Job is with a Fresh new Bit .....................I new my Bit was dull but went ahead regardless (Bad move by the way)


That said the results (At this stage speak for themselves) all in all a nice slot taking shape (Note the surface area of the Router Base)


However as noted I new the Bit was getting Dull and I was starting to Push things well above and beyond what I consider Safe So decided to pull the cut up and order some New Bits

AS a Boiler Maker Ive Completed my 6G Pressure Ticket and got to See the Stick and Mig Boys Prep their Work as I Tig'd

On one occasion I got to see one of the old timers prepping 10mm Mild Steel with a Solid Carbide Mitre Bit (At first I didn't believe it but with my eyes watched him prep for welding in this manner time and again)

Eventually I asked our store manager where the bit came from and he said they had it specially made from Carbitool - Now please dont go start routing mild steel with cheap bits (This is DAngerous and likely results in serious injury or death) it was a specially made dedicated piece of tooling made to order at a hefty price

- But as an aside I got to see the limitations of the highest quality Bits - Hence have a lot of confidence milling aluminium with the right gear

Needless to say I need to order a few new Bits which will be the subject of my next post

Regards Lou :D

[NewLou]

Gidday :D

Some folk will spruke yarns about flying through aluminium with cheap cutters 2 flute stright bits bang on about how you can do anything with aluminum that you can with hardwoods n so on

this is a fools errand and do so at your own risk

Good work with aluminium and a Good Router is all about stacking chips in your direction

Any plan to do heavy cuts demands a New sharp bit from the outset I have an affiliation with carbitool bits their an Aussie Company and ive seen their gear work reliably under strained conditions working with Hard materials

I thought it might be interesting to do a comparison between 2 cutters 1 designed for aluminium the other hard woods how to tell the difference if you mix em up and the subtle differences in weight and the cutter profiles

Theres a few webpages that appear to impart a bit of good oil on what to look for when taking the leap to Mill up aluminium

IF you can I always recommend having a chat to an engineer or a carbitool rep like I said stack the chips on your side tell em about the job your planning and the safest way of going about it

It also never hurts to refer to the Machinerys Handbook (https://1drv.ms/b/s!Aq5Gjz9IkMwz9mSfFHSHCt-kVILv?e=KAdqSs) for those of you that have yet to discover this GEM :D

CNC Router Aluminum Cutting: 11 Easy Tips for 2021 (https://www.cnccookbook.com/10-tips-for-cnc-router-aluminum-cutting-success/)

Adam'&#39;'s Tips - Cutting Aluminium Sheet - Adam'&#39;'s Bits (https://www.endmill.com.au/blog/adams-tips-cutting-aluminium-sheet/)

3 important Tips for Cutting Aluminum with your CNC Router (https://www.cncsparetools.com/new/3-important-tips-for-cutting-aluminum-with-your-cnc-router.html)

Regards Lou :D

[NewLou]

Gidday :D

Upon first inspection there dosent seem to be a lot of difference between the BITs one is a 2 Flute Downcut for Wood the other a 2 Flute Upcut for non ferrous metals like aluminium


On Bottom we have the Bit designed for hardwoods the Top a Solid Carbide Bit designed for Cuts in Non Ferrous Materials like Aluminium

However having a closer Look you can see the Bit at the Top has less Milled out of it n sure enough the Wood Bit Weighs in at 94g the Aluminium cutter 104g


More Carbide? A different grain Structure? Heftier Milling architecture? a mixture of all these things .................Who knows? N really how can you tell? (Hint its likely you get what you pay for - Remember keep stackin chips your way!)

That said its a fair BET the Heftier Bits gonna hold up a lot better Closer to operational Limits (Remember were stackin Chips our way!) and gives us punters a bit of an idea on what to look out for

Like all great gear makers Carbitool knows some old fella like myself will forget what Bit does what so we can see in the closeup of the bits


TSLW - Indicating the Bit is Designed for Wood

TSR - The Bit is designed for tackling Non Ferrous Materials like aluminium


NExt Post I'll get back to routing some quarter inch and 1/2 inch Slots in the Aluminium Angle then Do a Sketchup of my Slight adjustment to the Great Pat Warners Design

Regards Lou :D

[aldav]

Upon first inspection there dosent seem to be a lot of difference between the BITs both are 2 Flute Downcut Carbide Spirals


On Bottom we have the Bit designed for hardwoods the Top a Solid Carbide Bit designed for Cuts in Non Ferrous Materials like Aluminium

One of those bits is downcut and the other is upcut. The bit for wood is downcut. You would never use a downcut bit on metal. :no:

[NewLou]

F*(&^)(*&^ Me :oo:

The CarbiTool Website says

"Over 40 years of manufacturing focus with an ongoing commitment to introducing new technology!"

Bloody liers

Sound the alarms you'll have to tell the Boys at Carbitool they F*(^)(&^D Up!

got my order wrong and labelled the packaging and invoice wrong and spuking rubbish on their webpage

Go figure

:oo:

[aldav]

Well that's definitely a downcut bit pictured in your last post. The fact that a professional manufacturer like Carbitool would recommend a cutter like that for non-ferrous metals made me second guess myself. I checked the 3 sites you linked to in your previous post and they ALL recommend upcut bits for aluminium. Because aluminium has a lowish melting point a downcut bit forcing the chips into the cut would cause the chips to soften and stick to the cutting edge of the cutter, ie. no edge to cut with.

There's no doubt in my mind that the pictured downcut bit is totally unsuitable for cutting aluminium. Even if you were cutting all the way through your aluminium stock in one pass I can't see any advantage to using a downcut bit. What Carbitool are saying is just WRONG.

[NewLou]

I just doubled checked and your right

The bit I ordered for working with aluminium is an upcut bit (I Apologise for my Boo Boo - The salt n pepper in the hair must be getting thicker)

Nice pickup! I'll be sure to go over the posts and make sure they align with this

I'll side step questioning Carbitool engineers about what their gear can and cant do

AS an aside I though it might be interesting to See Jonthan Katz Moses (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=seAmL6mtqgM)do a Rundown on Spiral Up/Down n straight cutters (Worth a look he uses a special slow mo camera)

Also another good Primer on Upcut and Downcut Bits here
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zxfg81c1Y3s)
Sincerely Lou :p

[NewLou]

Gidday

I put the 1/2 and 1/4 inch cutters to good use today and I must say they really worked well...................... the feel is not unlike routing Aussie hardwoods (Listening to the cut gives you a lot of feeback)

Theres a bit more resistance when your pushing through the cut (As you'd expect)

and I've noticed theres abit of a bite when you first plunge into aluminium so what I did was keep my cuts light and avoid over stressing the bit...............NICE! :D

I'll be doing 4 Slots in this piece of Angle and will experiment with using some lubricant tomorrow to see if theres any noticable difference believe it or not (I'll be using Ghee)

All in all a fun day in the Shed............

Just as an aside I checked in with my usual team of engineers and the Carbitool catalogs Down cutters (For non Ferrous Metals) are designed for through cuts in presumably thinner sheet aluminium and may have utility with finishing off edges

Jon Kat Moses gives a great rundown on their Utility with Timber above!

Regards Lou :D

[NewLou]

Gidday

We'll I think i can say that a bit more of the mystery has been taken out of routing aluminium

I've used my EZSMartGuides and The Ultimate Router Base from Scott Grove and its been no Drama

This isnt something I'd like to be doing production runs in BUT for occasional Milling some Quality Bits from Carbitool Delivered

I just realised I'm in the Good old Google Sketchup Section in Design so I'll get a few plans in Order

And transition across to the Router Table Section for my Build

Happy Days

Regards Lou :D

[NewLou]

Ok So I thought I better blow the dust off my old design skills and get Going Again

I've noticed theres a lot more options with CAD these days Solid Works and Such but Still I think its hard to beat good old Sketchup for ease of use

I really still can't believe its for Free.......................Never Hurts to refine designs

So will start with a few idea's and see how she evolves I'm thinking of tigging up some Aluminium Checker Plate as a Baffle Box Around the Router and sealing this up with some Caulk/Silicon

With an AirDuct for the Air intake of a MOF001 has anyone done anything like this? Have Any of you who have racked up some long term Router Table use Got any feedback on how Enclosed Routers Hold up ? Airflow ideas and the like? would love to hear any thoughts


Regards Lou :D