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guyos
1st April 2007, 08:10 AM
Could someone help please.

I am setting up my table router for the first time. When the collet is in, it drops down deep into the recess and leaves a gap under the top of the nut about half an inch, and when I put a cutter in, the shank goes down deep, a bare half inch of the cutting blade is showing. This made me buy an extension which will give me enough cutter length to work, but I notice the extension's collet fits the same way leaving a gap at the top of the nut. Should I be holding the collet up flush with the nut and not let it drop down to the bottom?

Which is the correct way? :?
I hope I have explained it clearly.

guyos

scooter
1st April 2007, 09:31 PM
Could someone help please.

I am setting up my table router for the first time. When the collet is in, it drops down deep into the recess and leaves a gap under the top of the nut about half an inch, and when I put a cutter in, the shank goes down deep, a bare half inch of the cutting blade is showing. This made me buy an extension which will give me enough cutter length to work, but I notice the extension's collet fits the same way leaving a gap at the top of the nut. Should I be holding the collet up flush with the nut and not let it drop down to the bottom?

Which is the correct way? :?
I hope I have explained it clearly.

guyos

Struggling to understand your specific problem, mate.

Do you mean your router is a 1/2" collet and you are using a reducing collet to 1/4"; and that the reducing collet is slipping down too far inside the router collet?

I guess the only way to stop this would be to marginally nip up the router collet so the reducer is a slight push fit, to stop it dropping in too far. Yes, the top of the reducer should usually be flush with the top of the router collet.

(BTW, ensure the slot in the reducer lines up with a slot in your router collet)

If the router bit is dropping in too far, you need to either hold it in the correct position (with your third hand :wink::D) or put an O-ring on the shaft of the router bit that will set it to the correct protrusion.

Hope this helps...............cheers...............Sean

Skew ChiDAMN!!
1st April 2007, 09:52 PM
I'm no router expert, but what you're describing (if I got it right) is definitely a problem.

Methinks Scooter's idea of slipping the collet onto the bit, then a rubber O-ring to hold it in position would be the way I'd go.

BrettC
1st April 2007, 11:02 PM
Guyos,

Can you get a photo? What type of router / router table are you using. You need to make sure that the bit doesn't bottom out or you might be in for rude shock.

I had a bit pop out once while using a router table and it's not much fun:o

guyos
2nd April 2007, 09:40 AM
Ok Chaps I understand this a bit better now after talking to someone.

It is the arbour of the router that is 1 and half inches deep so that when I put the cutter in and pull back for a small clearance it is still too far in. I understand that some routers do have this deep arbour.

I am advised to cut a small bit of dowel and drop it in then set the cutter shank 1 inch down into the arbour, this seems Ok to me.

Sorry to confuse you, but I was a bit confused too, not used to routers.

Thanks guyos

scooter
2nd April 2007, 10:04 AM
Gday mate, as you've figured you don't need to insert the router bit to the full depth available, at least 20-25mm in the collet seems to be commonly considered sufficient. I use 20mm as the absolute minimum, but make your own mind up.

I wouldn't be putting dowel in there, could cause problems with tightening the collet properly or cause bits to jam, potentially dangerous.

As suggested, use an O ring on the shank to limit the insertion, this will not affect correct tighteing of the collet.


Cheers.................Sean

Dust Maker
2nd April 2007, 12:53 PM
In metal working, one of my teacher told me this as a rule of thumb for normal length cutters.

Multiply Diameter of cutter with 1.5 that should be mininmum length held in collet. i.e for 1/2" diameter 3/4" length is the minimum held in collet.

I would assume same applies for timber.

Dust Maker

K_S
2nd April 2007, 01:32 PM
FWIW: I've seen thin slices of plastic tube cut off and used to control router bit insertion depth.

KS

scooter
2nd April 2007, 02:41 PM
Very good idea, KS :2tsup:

Cheap & readily available.

Knurl
2nd April 2007, 03:58 PM
KS's idea is better. I don't like the dowel idea because friction between the timber and the shaft could cause it to burn. I use a small size-5 O-ring to stop the bit bottoming out in my small Triton router. That won't suit you, guyos, because your bit drops too far in. Put the size-5 onto the shaft of the bit, instead.

guyos
4th April 2007, 09:57 AM
Thanks chaps for your suggestions think I will go with KS, O rings are also fine if I can get hold of them. The situation is clear to me now, I atarted off thinking that I had to insert the bit full in and then withdraw just a touch and tighten. I have managed to hold the bit out and tighten the nut just enough to start pinching the shank, then slide down to the depth that I need. Now I have full length for cutting Problem solved.

guyos

Template Tom
4th April 2007, 10:19 AM
Thanks chaps for your suggestions think I will go with KS, O rings are also fine if I can get hold of them. The situation is clear to me now, I atarted off thinking that I had to insert the bit full in and then withdraw just a touch and tighten. I have managed to hold the bit out and tighten the nut just enough to start pinching the shank, then slide down to the depth that I need. Now I have full length for cutting Problem solved.

guyos

Just a simple question.
What is the make of router you are referring to?
If it is a Makita 3612 or a 3612C look for the nylon insert you received with the router and insert it in the chuck when the router is used in the below bench position.
Tom

guyos
7th April 2007, 03:03 AM
Just a simple question.
What is the make of router you are referring to?
If it is a Makita 3612 or a 3612C look for the nylon insert you received with the router and insert it in the chuck when the router is used in the below bench position.
Tom
My Router is a Ryobi ERT-1150V works OK, Takes 1/2 inch shank, I don't know enough about routers to critisize it.

guyos

Template Tom
7th April 2007, 09:56 AM
My Router is a Ryobi ERT-1150V works OK, Takes 1/2 inch shank, I don't know enough about routers to critisize it.

guyos

Sorry I will be of no help here as I have not been using Ryobi routers
Tom