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Grumpy John
6th April 2007, 06:23 PM
Just finished turning my first piece of irregular shaped timber (mallee burl)

On all my other bowls I've used EEE and Glow to finish them, however with my fingers the way they are (attached to my hand and not bleeding) I am not sure EEE is the right choice so I am asking you kind people what other alternatives there are to EEE and Glow.

Also, due to the "chunka chunka" effect (technical term for intermittant cut) I found it difficult to get the top and bottom dead flat, any help in this area would also be appreciated.

Thanks in advance
GJ

Skew ChiDAMN!!
6th April 2007, 06:32 PM
On all my other bowls I've used EEE and Glow to finish them, however with my fingers the way they are (attached to my hand and not bleeding) I am not sure EEE is the right choice so I am asking you kind people what other alternatives there are to EEE and Glow.

I apply Shellawax by hand and buff it with a power-drill. Only in small areas at a time though, else it turns into a nightmare.


Also, due to the "chunka chunka" effect (technical term for intermittant cut) I found it difficult to get the top and bottom dead flat, any help in this area would also be appreciated.

Very light cuts using a round-nose scraper with a good burr and slightly higher than normal angle of attack works for me. So light, as a matter of fact, that if I can hear the "tick" clearly I'm cutting too deep... I sort of aim for the point where it's a muffled "thwock" instead. (Highly technical today, aren't I? :D)

A bucketful of patience helps, too.

Grumpy John
6th April 2007, 06:37 PM
Thanks Skew
I tried the round nose scraper however I was getting the "tick tick" will try a lighter touch next time. BTW is it worth attaccing a small "G" clamp the the scraper and using that to guide the scraper along the tool rest?

Cheers
GJ

Skew ChiDAMN!!
6th April 2007, 06:59 PM
The g-clamp might work for you, I can't see anything obviously wrong with the idea, assuming it won't interfere with the tool-rest. It'd drive me nuts though. :D

Oh... I should've mentioned that I use a good, heavy scraper, made from about 15mm square steel stock. (I can't be sure on the size unless I go and measure...) The extra mass means it doesn't get knocked as far on the "ticks" so it's a bit easier to control.

DJ’s Timber
6th April 2007, 07:08 PM
I'll probably get :ft: for this, but I do exactly the same as Skew says but use my 1 1/2" skew chisel instead of a scraper for the top

Skew ChiDAMN!!
6th April 2007, 07:11 PM
:oo:

They're your fingers! :D

Bruce101
7th April 2007, 09:00 PM
Just finished turning my first piece of irregular shaped timber (mallee burl)

On all my other bowls I've used EEE and Glow to finish them, however with my fingers the way they are (attached to my hand and not bleeding) I am not sure EEE is the right choice so I am asking you kind people what other alternatives there are to EEE and Glow.

Thanks in advance
GJ



GJ,

I have quite successfully polished burls using 'Skews' method. I use EEE & Shellawax Cream, but, unless you spin it, it definitely has to be done with a buff in a power drill. It comes up good.

Also my work bench consists of a Triton Saw Bench to which I have fitted a piece of marine ply cover. On this I have cut some angle pieces screwed on with some small pieces which I screw against the uneven edges to hold the burl in place while I polish it. (Protect the edges with a piece of offcut felt or similar)

Works fine. (but I'm not yet good enough to turn one, I have nightmares of it punching holes in the roof when it comes asunder).

Bruce

rsser
7th April 2007, 10:09 PM
Seems to me burls are made for an oil finish. But if you don't want to darken the colour try thinned white shellac or if there are very few voids just wax will work.

Re the ticking, also consider turning the speed up, and check your tool presentation with the lathe off.

turnerted
8th April 2007, 06:04 PM
John
I have just turned my first mallee burl to the same design as yours and was faced with the same problems . I used a scraper on the flats and am fairly happy with the result , I decided to spray mine with preasure pac polyurathane and put the first coat on the bottom about an hour ago . I could not see any way I could buff a wax finished , especially as part of the underside of mine has the natural spiky surface .Hopefully I can show a picture when it's done .

Ted

hughie
8th April 2007, 06:47 PM
For me a bit more speed [ hmm actually flat out if my nerves will take it ]and very light cuts.
As mostly I turn both sides of the lip/edge it adds to the complexity. But I like to finish with a very low speed for the sand and polish 20-30rpm and stop it when ever I need to for going any particular area several times.

for me:- Burls = equal Patience. It also helps me maintain my correct finger count :o :U :U

As to finish I inclined to agree with Ern. But it does depend on the intended recipient. My wifes rellys in the US of A always want a gloss finish especially on burls.

Grumpy John
9th April 2007, 09:08 AM
Seems to me burls are made for an oil finish. But if you don't want to darken the colour try thinned white shellac or if there are very few voids just wax will work.

Thanks for the advice Ern (and everyone who answered my questions), what oils should I use?

Cheers
GJ

rsser
9th April 2007, 09:57 AM
You can make your own. eg Boiled Linseed oil/turps, at 50/50 ratio, or BLO/mineral spirits/polyurethane. Experiment with the ratios on this one.

Or else buy some Danish Oil. I'm a fan of Rustins which you can get from the Woodsmith and I think from Carrolls woodcraft by mail order.

[PS, you can control the amount of gloss with DO by the extent of buffing. I prefer a satin finish so with RMB I'd put two coats on without buffing and then if a higher lustre was wanted just buff by hand with a cloth. If that still wasn't enough I'd wet buff.]