Routing signs - one for Scooter

[mailee]

Ok Scooter, you asked for this. Here are the WIP pictures of one of my signs. I start by printing the letters off the computer and using carbon paper to transfer them onto the wood:
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/7416/2concentration5xy.jpg
I then draw around the letters in ink to prevent them smudging. After this I cut around the letters with a craft knife, not deep but just enough to sever the surface fibres.
http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/9348/3ascorearoundletters3hf.jpg
Once this is done I can sit down and relax with the router. I use an elu 96E router with a 1/4" collet and a cutter of 2 to 3mm for outlining the letters.
http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/1310/4takeyourtime2ci.jpg
You will notice I hold the router by the base plate instead of the handles, this gives better control of it for this sort of work and the cuts are only a maximum of 2-3mm deep so there is no risk of the router snatching out of your hand. (Unless you fall asleep that is) Take it slowly and ease up to the letters and as soon as you see the whisp of wood spin off it is close enough. I prefer to use small clockwise circular motions around the letters so I can be more precise with the control of the router.
Once the letters are outlined to the depth required you can shange cutters and remove the bulk of the waste from the background.
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/8366/6firstcutscomplete0dl.jpg
Some hand finishing will be required where the cutter can't get into and I use anything that fits the bill for this EG: pins, craft knife, chisel.
Once all the waste is removed from the background I clean it up with a chisel using it vertical like a scraper. This removes any cutter marks left after the router is finished.
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/5765/9acleaningupthebackground5lq.jpg
The final article ready for finishing:
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/5455/9breadyforthefinish4qn.jpg
I normally use Mahogany for my signs but will use any hardwood I can get my hands on really. I never use softwood as I have found that the letters tend to snap on the apexes and ends. As for finish, I normally use an oil finish such as Danish oil but have varnished one before that was to live inside a home. The one here in it's first coat of oil was for a cottage
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/8567/9creadytohang1ef.jpg
I hope this has helped you and you have enjoyed it as much as I enjoyed making it.

[journeyman Mick]

Mailee,
have you considered gluing the computer print out directly to the timber? That's what I do, I reckon sanding or planing the paper off is less work than tracing and inking. Nice sign BTW, I think I actually like it before it's finished, when the letters are just outlined.

Mick

[Big Shed]

Only first 3 images show, others show a little box "Image does not exist"

What's wrong with using the forums' attachment method? Kinder to dial up users too.

[MrFixIt]

Hi

Very nice result.

TOO much effort required for the layout. I agree with journeyman_mick. Use spray on adhesive, stick the omputer printed letters to the wood and route through that.

I am sure the lines would be MUCH clearer to see and therefore easier to work to.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Oh, I dunno. I tried a similar method when making RC aircraft. It's great for xferring lines but when you need precision with the exacto knife (and I think that's an important part of his method) in places like sharp corners, then the paper gets in the way.

Sure, you could score thru the paper, remove it and then clean up/finish the cuts... but pencil lines already in place are a lot easier to see than fine scores. IMHO, it'd just swap one awkward stage for another.

There's another method that has been discussed before, of printing "whatever" in reverse, wiping the timber down with...?? (some solvent. Acetone? It's been discussed elsewhere here, anyway) and then rubbing the printout face down on the wood to xfer the image over.

[mailee]

I agree that maybe the paper would make the letters more difficult to cut around, I have not tried this method so can't really comment on how much better it would be. Sorry for the pictures big shed it is just habit posting pictures on forums using this method. I originally used pencil to outline the leters but did find them hard to follow, hence now use the pen. I too like the style before the sign is finished Mick but that is what the customer wanted. I like to see the sign without any finish on at all but it does need something in our climate here in the UK. Thanks for the comments guys and the advice.

[joe greiner]

Acetone on reverse printing works, but it's kinda messy. I get better results with a clothes iron set on "Linen" (max temp on most). Best if the wood is at least baby-butt smooth, scraped with the grain best of all. Also, best done if SWMBO is away for a while. As I've said before, a friend of mine gets unlimited grief when he washes car parts in the kitchen sink.

A soldering iron also works for the transfer, but with mini's it takes almost forever.

Joe

[scooter]

Thanks for the thread, mailee, great service :D


...
You will notice I hold the router by the base plate instead of the handles, this gives better control of it for this sort of work and the cuts are only a maximum of 2-3mm deep so there is no risk of the router snatching out of your hand......Take it slowly and ease up to the letters and as soon as you see the whisp of wood spin off it is close enough... I prefer to use small clockwise circular motions around the letters so I can be more precise with the control of the router. ..

This is exactly the sort of technique stuff I was hoping for, goodonya :2tsup:



Cheers........................Sean