Winding up, down.

[rgum]

I'd love a winder mech attch'd to my router ( under table ). Money? :~

It is a pain to wind incramentally , hand under the table. Are the new Triton routers making this task easier?

Will be buying new large Triton router soon.

Cheers Tony. :U

[Big Shed]

I'd love a winder mech attch'd to my router ( under table ). Money? :~

It is a pain to wind incramentally , hand under the table. Are the new Triton routers making this task easier?

Will be buying new large Triton router soon.

Cheers Tony. :U

Professional Woodworkers sell an above table winder for the Triton, $100 from memory.

I was going to add this to my router table that I just finished, but now that I actually have it working I don't find the need for it. Coarse height adjustment is very quick and the fine height adjustment on the Triton TRA001 is easy to get at, particularly if you position it slightly to the front left when looking at the router fron on. If that makes sense?:?

I am using the Woodpeckers router insert, already pre-drilled for the Triton router and the holes are perfectly positioned to this right.

[bsrlee]

The 'BIG' Triton does not come with above-table winding as original - I believe the 'after-market' winding kit requires a fair bit of stripping down & replacing/cutting/drilling of bits & is not reverseable.

The smaller unit does have the above-table fitting built in - a pity that Triton(GMC) i) haven't made a Mk.2 of the large router with the fittings and ii) haven;t made a retro-fit kit for the winder.

[Wild Dingo]

The 'BIG' Triton does not come with above-table winding as original - I believe the 'after-market' winding kit requires a fair bit of stripping down & replacing/cutting/drilling of bits & is not reverseable.

The smaller unit does have the above-table fitting built in - a pity that Triton(GMC) i) haven't made a Mk.2 of the large router with the fittings and ii) haven;t made a retro-fit kit for the winder.

But its a bloody good router eh? :; :;

[Gwhat]

In response to this question being raised over the years, and realising that not everybody can afford (or need) the UniLIFT ($585) we worked wth the folk at Router Technologies n the US to produce a Triton specific Router Raizer.

Installation takes about 1/2 an hour, with the most complex part being the drilling of a 1/2" diameter hole in the black plastic cap that retains the spring. If you're uneasy about installing it, local tool repairers will do it for you.

There are at least a hundred of these in use here in Oz (and NZ) and perform very well. At $100 it beats the myriad of other solutions (car jacks etc)

It can be seen HERE (http://www.woodworksupplies.com.au/category43_1.htm) There is also a great commentary by fellow forumite DPB on his Installation & Use of the Router Raizer on his trusty TRA001.

We also have Phenolic Plates (http://www.woodworksupplies.com.au/category19_1.htm) pre-drilled to accept boh the Triton & the Router Raizer.

I hope that this puts at least one solution on the table for you?

Regards

The Woodworker

[Groggy]

If you are in the design stage of your router table, the cheapest solution by far is to make the table top hinge. That way you can simply lift, adjust, change bits etc. I find changing bits more annoying than changing height - at least I used to.

The RR and UniLifts etc are good solutions after the table is built or if you have lots of items on the table when routing.

[Just George]

I'd love a winder mech attch'd to my router ( under table ). Money? :~

It is a pain to wind incramentally , hand under the table. Are the new Triton routers making this task easier?

Will be buying new large Triton router soon.

Cheers Tony. :U


The MOF001 has a through the table winder, one rotation of the handle is 1.6mm - each mark is 0.2mm this is more than accurate enough for me.
The TRA001 doesn't have this feature but all you have to do is reach down to it's fine adjustment knob and wind it the same amount as the smaller router which is dead easy to do. For fast adjustment, grab the large knob, squeeze and rotate to wind up or down, is this method fast enough do you think?

[Just George]

The MOF001 has a through the table winder, one rotation of the handle is 1.6mm - each mark is 0.2mm this is more than accurate enough for me.
The TRA001 doesn't have this feature but all you have to do is reach down to it's fine adjustment knob and wind it the same amount as the smaller router which is dead easy to do. For fast adjustment, grab the large knob, squeeze and rotate to wind up or down, is this method fast enough do you think?


Oops, thought I'd ad a little more, if you had a router that you needed to manually screw up and was really really hard to do, then buy a lifter but the Tritons are so easy to do, why would you bother?

The only reason I could possibly think of is if you couldn't reach the router easily. And if you can't reach it, is it getting the required amount of air to the motor to keep it cool?

[Wild Dingo]

Just thought Id add me two bobs worth here

There comes a time for some of us when the bending kneeling process is PAINFULL... even the slight bending kneeling process causes quite severe pain... so given that yes the bending down to reach under to turn that sodding knob is a cause for pain particularily in the knees.

I have the carbetex table with the jigs its still as open as the day I set it up and I use the dust collection unit so dust isnt an issue for me the biggest single issue is getting the bloody router up or down particularily in small tiny increments!

I will check what model triton I have but its the big buggar... but still it IS a pain in the knees for me to change the damned settings without an above table winding setup... Ive tried that sizzor jack raising method but had some concerns about the possibility of the top of the jack going through the plastic of the casing on the router so I got rid of the thing... fine tune raising still entailed bending which with my knees is not a joyous occasion at all

So although some will find it easy to simply bend down and turn the handle others like myself with dicky knees will find it an experience to avoid whenever possible... Im only just 50 and otherwise pretty fit and healthy but the knees when they go... GO... and after that it wont matter a crap if your 34 or 64 your bending kneeling days are numbered... so have a thought before you post maybe some of us have no bloody choice but to get these windyuppy dohickeys so we dont cause ourselves too much agony when doing stuff in the shed... yeah maybe its easy for some maybe others dont think it could happen to them but I was like that only last year... this year I have more appreciation of my knees and the pain associated with them going.

Just thought Id give a little perspective

Thanks Gwhat... finally!! :2tsup:

[rgum]

Thankyou all for the advice. Its great.

Dingo??? Where do I get me a new lower back and knees? :C
Don't these machine designers know we are an ageing society here in Aus? :no:
Thankyou for your help. I'm not going to buy the uebeaut table as you bought. Bloody keen on it though. Makes tennoing look like whitecoller work ....:roll: I used to be one of them. Matre D.

Buy a plate soon and make me a table into a cab ....at work.

Thanks :2tsup:

[snowyskiesau]

I quite like the look of this one from JW Nixon:
http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/index.htm?videos.htm

As soon as I find a cheap electric screwdriver and a few hours spare time...

[Waldo]

G'day Wild Dingo,

I thought I'd post this link for you, it's the router lift that Bob38S thought up. It's very simple in design and the way it works. I'll be doing the same when I get to making my router table.

http://www6.cyanide.com.au/~woodwork/showthread.php?t=23893&highlight=router

[Wild Dingo]

Gidday Waldo
Yeah I remember that one by Bob but for some reason never posted my one question to it... mmm okay the question

You see as I do the second pic with the wheel attached to the jaw of the vice? soooo none of the others show where he locates that particular piece which must be the winder... is it UNDER the steel plate? or somehow mysteriously attaches above the table somehow

IF its under the plate then you would have to be bending even lower to get down far enough to get at it then reaching into the centre of the plate to reach all very non buggared knee freindly

Or am I in my usual way missing something? :roll:

ooh and Geoff mate that page doesnt show a router table design let alone a lifter... maybe Im missing something again?

oooh okay found it!! :doh:

[Waldo]

G'day Dingo,

Here's a shot from under his table.

I'm sure he wouldn't mind me posting this shot. I've got some more if they'd be of a help to you. What Bob did was to replace the handle off the vise with an water irrigation wheel.

[Wild Dingo]

As to me it appears the router collete pointing upward and the wheel is under that... I guess Im right that its even more of a bend down reach under to get to it then? :C

[Waldo]

G'day Dingo,

I was thinking about this last night as I crept closer to sleep, and thought that a solution may be to run some geared teeth off the vise and run a 90º arm which also has geared teeth (hope I'm making some sort of sence, a bit like an axel) which the irrigation wheel is attached to and is mounted off the front of the table, well within reaching distance without having to kneel down and save any grunts of displeasure.

:? :shrug:

[Bob38S]

G'day Ding & Waldo,

since that first post the portability of the table has been done away with - I have now attached it to a table which I can tilt to roll.

Yes, you do need to bend - I looked at using a bike sprocket and chain on the vice and a remote crank handle to avoid bending but found that it wasn't really a problem for me [even having had a spinal fusion] and would have amounted to overkill.

Re the question of how the vice is attached to the table. [I think this is what you were asking]

The vice is used in reverse - the front which normally moves is now attached to the laminated plywood base and the back [which is normally attached to the bench] is allowed to move - this is what the aluminium angle attaches to. Hopefully the pix will clarify it.

Regards,
Bob

[rayintheuk]

It is a pain to wind incramentally, hand under the table. Are the new Triton routers making this task easier?
With the plunge spring removed (a ten-second task), the TRA (big machine) is effortless to wind both up and down, using the built-in rack-and-pinion, then the micro-adjuster to get the bit height spot on. If this is not the case, it's time for a clean and lube!


The smaller unit does have the above-table fitting built in - a pity that Triton(GMC) i) haven't made a Mk.2 of the large router with the fittings and ii) haven't made a retro-fit kit for the winder.
Retro-fitting is not as easy as you might imagine. It would require a complete replacement of the lower half of the motor housing (the grey part) in order to have the worm gear extend beneath it to be operated by the handle - see the difference in this pic (note the "T" bar descending from the left-hand side of the smaller machine's motor housing):

http://www.raygirling.com/images/mof00104.jpg


There comes a time for some of us when the bending kneeling process is PAINFULL... even the slight bending kneeling process causes quite severe pain... so given that yes the bending down to reach under to turn that sodding knob is a cause for pain particularily in the knees.
I sympathise with you here, especially as I'm getting ancient, but you've got to reach under to switch off to enable bit changing, and then wind it up to do that, haven't you?

I can reach under, switch off, release the plunge lock and wind right up, all without looking or bending my knees, so maybe your table is a little on the low side, or the insert is set a little deep (away from the front)? Mine is about kitchen counter-top height, which I find ideal.

Ray.

[Wild Dingo]

I sympathise with you here, especially as I'm getting ancient, but you've got to reach under to switch off to enable bit changing, and then wind it up to do that, haven't you?

I can reach under, switch off, release the plunge lock and wind right up, all without looking or bending my knees, so maybe your table is a little on the low side, or the insert is set a little deep (away from the front)? Mine is about kitchen counter-top height, which I find ideal.

Ray.

Yes I suppose your right Ray... I do however have a triton switch on the front of the table which helps somewhat... however you are right one does have to bend over slightly to flip the switch on the machine undo the lock and wind it up... but its oooh so bloody painfull... mmmm kitchen bench height you say? grand idea there mate!! Bloody grand idea! In fact I had intended making a router table at about 30in high but will revise that upwards :2tsup:

mmm wonder how dificult it would be to make a hydrolic raiserupperer for this thing?... I mean say we make a stand for the table put a foot lever on one side attached to a hydrolic lifter thingy and when you want to change the bits you simply use the foot pump to raise the whole table to eye height!! no sweat no bending no neeling just punp away up she comes stick a locking pin like the hoists at the mechanics have and bobs yer uncle... now THAT would be the go eh!! :; mind you it would make these above the table router raisers sorta obsolete wouldnt it?... up undo the collet down fit new collet and bit up tighten down to floor lock and go... easy as eh! mind you with the fellas here the combined knowledge and jig mastery of the forum it could easily turn into a switch on switch of hydrolic lifter thingy!!

okay some drawing coming up!! early plannin stages but I can see a way here of keepin yous dinosours and us bung knee types goin until we literally drop!:2tsup:

I was just hopin someone would come up with some way of avoiding this bending squatting caper altogether :C

[Big Shed]

With the plunge spring removed (a ten-second task), the TRA (big machine) is effortless to wind both up and down, using the built-in rack-and-pinion, then the micro-adjuster to get the bit height spot on. If this is not the case, it's time for a clean and lube!




I can vouch for that. I had real difficulties getting my TRA001 to wind and fine adjust. After a PM from Ray, where he pointed me to his very thorough and easy to follow instructions for cleaning the TRA001, my router was easier to use than when I first bought it in 2002. The difference is just amazing. I was all set to buy the Router Raizer, but have now decided it is not necessary (sorry GWhat:D)



I sympathise with you here, especially as I'm getting ancient, but you've got to reach under to switch off to enable bit changing, and then wind it up to do that, haven't you?

I can reach under, switch off, release the plunge lock and wind right up, all without looking or bending my knees, so maybe your table is a little on the low side, or the insert is set a little deep (away from the front)? Mine is about kitchen counter-top height, which I find ideal.



Again, Ray is quite correct. To change the bit you must reach under to switch off so that the collet can be raised above the table. A winder doesn't help here. My router table is 900mm high and I have purposely left a lot of room around the router to enable me to do these things easily. I certainly don't have to lay on my knees or bend my knees all that much. I am also getting ancient and can manage quite easily. Perhaps the hinged top that some people use can assist here.

Can someone tell me how Multi-quote works?

[DJ’s Timber]

For the multi-quote to work you need to click on this button http://mt0.woodworkforums.com/images/button2/multiquote_off.gif (http://www.woodworkforums.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=497087) in each post and then when you have clicked on everyone that you want to quote push <TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100&#37;" border=0><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD class=smallfont>http://mt0.woodworkforums.com/images/button2/reply.gif (http://www.woodworkforums.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=497087)</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

[Big Shed]

For the multi-quote to work you need to click on this button http://mt0.woodworkforums.com/images/button2/multiquote_off.gif (http://www.woodworkforums.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=497087) in each post and then when you have clicked on everyone that you want to quote push <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr valign="top"><td class="smallfont">http://mt0.woodworkforums.com/images/button2/reply.gif (http://www.woodworkforums.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=497087)</td></tr></tbody></table>

Ah, I was under the impression that Multi-quote would let me split the post I'm quoting into separate bits as I have seen other people do and I was trying to do above.

My mistake.

However, how do I get separate quote boxes from the one post?

[DJ’s Timber]

Ah, I was under the impression that Multi-quote would let me split the post I'm quoting into separate bits as I have seen other people do and I was trying to do above.

My mistake.

However, how do I get separate quote boxes from the one post?



I sympathise with you here, especially as I'm getting ancient, but you've got to reach under to switch off to enable bit changing, and then wind it up to do that, haven't you?

I can reach under, switch off, release the plunge lock and wind right up, all without looking or bending my knees, so maybe your table is a little on the low side, or the insert is set a little deep (away from the front)? Mine is about kitchen counter-top height, which I find ideal.

Ray.

This one didn't work cuase you left out the ] after ;497030

[quote=rayintheuk;497030 I sympathise with you here, especially as I'm getting ancient, but you've got to reach under to switch off to enable bit changing, and then wind it up to do that, haven't you?

I can reach under, switch off, release the plunge lock and wind right up, all without looking or bending my knees, so maybe your table is a little on the low side, or the insert is set a little deep (away from the front)? Mine is about kitchen counter-top height, which I find ideal.

[/quote]

[Big Shed]

Thanks DJS, learn something every day:2tsup:

[Sturdee]

Ah, I was under the impression that Multi-quote would let me split the post I'm quoting into separate bits as I have seen other people do and I was trying to do above.

My mistake.




However, how do I get separate quote boxes from the one post?

If you mean like this, in the reply to post I cut and paste the quote and then delete what I don't want to show.


Peter.

[Big Shed]

If you mean like this, in the reply to post I cut and paste the quote







and then delete what I don't want to show.




Thanks Peter:)