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Stu in Tokyo
25th April 2007, 12:50 AM
OK, I put a lot of thought into this, before I built it, but start to finish was about 4 hours, not counting a coffee break or two :cool:

I decided to make this up today, as I had all of the welding stuff out, and the Dungeon was a mess anyways :cool: so why not just make a bigger mess, and get this done!! :yeah:

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I started out turning down one end of the solid piece of steel rod so it would fit inside the pipe that I'm going to make the D-handle out of. This took some time, and my scraper needed a lot of resharpening, but I got it done.....

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Not bad for a wood lathe, I think!

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Fits just right

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There is even a bit of a shoulder for it to stop at.

Now onto the "D" handle....

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I cut the pipe at 45s and then welded it up, worked well, I added a few nuts with allen bolts to hold the tool insert, and then I ground the D-handle smooth.

I then built the tip of the tool, not much there but a bit of grinding, then filing, drill a hole and tap it, and I have a tool tip.

Stu in Tokyo
25th April 2007, 12:54 AM
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I cut up an old circular saw blade that a buddy Mark Rios sent me (thanks again Mark!) and it works OK, but the steel is a bit on the thin side, I need to find something that is more like at least an 1/8" thick, if not more, and is for sure HSS, dunno if the saw blade was... :aro-d:

The capture part was next, this was fairly simple, I was working hard to get it done, so I did not take any "In progress pics" (I know, I know) as the cell camera and hot steel and sparks to do with welding don't really mix either (nor do my dirty hands all over the cell phone).

All you get is the finished product...............

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A head stock view

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from the other end

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here is the part that captures the D-handle, simple and works like a trick! :yeah:

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I chucked up one of the ROCK hard Keyaki blanks, this stuff is seriously hard, I DNAed it on July 28th 2006 (the wrapper said) so it was seriously dry and when so, it is seriously hard!!

The rig worked fine, the only thing is the tool tip dulled in about 1 minute of scraping! :cool:

so I did something about that too...............

Stu in Tokyo
25th April 2007, 01:01 AM
..........I bought some REAL HHS square bit blanks......

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One is 6 mm and the other is 8 mm, I'm using the 6 mm pieces, with a 7 degree grind on the cutting part.

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I made this side rig, with the bit sticking out at an angle.....

I made a hole about 5 cm wide and about that deep with my bowl gouge, then I tried out the new tool.....


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........and it worked!! :2tsup:

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Yep, there is a hollow bit there.............

Next up, I figured a boring bar was in order.............

Stu in Tokyo
25th April 2007, 01:07 AM
............. so I made one!!

I put my newly restored old drill press to work!!

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I then put the longer piece in the end there, and had at it.........

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Yep, that works !! :2tsup:

I'm going to have to fire up my forge and make a swan neck version.......:D

Cheers!

m2c1Iw
25th April 2007, 01:33 AM
So Stu I know your in Tokyo but you turners talk a different langauge:rolleyes:

Stu in Tokyo
25th April 2007, 02:37 AM
So Stu I know your in Tokyo but you turners talk a different language:rolleyes:


Yeah, I guess we do:-

Sorry about that, any questions?

Cheers!

Bruce101
25th April 2007, 07:48 AM
Stu, as an ex metal turner, I'm absolutely intrigued!! Having no fixed tool post (ie metal lathe) How did you adapt for turning?? What tool did you use? How did you clamp/hold cutting tool for the cut??

Congrats.....a great thread!!!!

hughie
25th April 2007, 09:18 AM
Stu,

Welcome back...long time no see :U

Dunno which you do best. The equipment build or the tute. As usual a very nice job :2tsup:

Love the steel turning....:U now that I have not tried. Necessity I guess is mother of invention as always.


If your looking for HSS scraper blades, look around in your neighborhood for a engineering shop that handles/cuts etc thin walled tube especially stainless. They use a 'cold saw' The blade is HSS and around 14'' dia and 1/8 thick at the edge thicker toward the centre. They are prone to splitting in half, over time and they make very good scraper blades.

In Oz the shop will give the you old bits if they have any.
http://www.oceanmachinery.com/cold-saw-blades.htm
You can cut them with the 1mm thick cut off friction discs . To get holes I blow them with the arc welder, drilling has never been successfull for me.:C
If you have access to a plasma arc then the blade will slice up like butter.:U

WillyInBris
25th April 2007, 10:04 AM
Hi Stu,

Your a legend mate :2tsup: was thinking of buying something like that in the future but was trying to work out how I was going to afford it.

I am sure its something I can make along the same lines.

Can you tell us what type of diameter pipe you used and what about a video so we can see it in action, and also add it to the member videos?:U

TTIT
25th April 2007, 11:10 AM
Thought that dungeon must have swallowed you up Stu - been a long time between projects! Great 'how-to' as usual - and after the 'little incident' I had with a hollowing job last night I think it's time I bit the bullet and followed your lead. :wounded1: :;


.... To get holes I blow them with the arc welder, drilling has never been successfull for me.:C


Gotta get yourself a set of these drills Hughie (pictured). Best thing since sliced bread mate! Made the little scraper from an old planer blade and put the hole through it in seconds - files, HSS, you name it - actually bought them to drill a broken tap out of some stainless steel (any excuse for a new toy! :-) - did the job nicely!


.....Having no fixed tool post (ie metal lathe) How did you adapt for turning?? What tool did you use? How did you clamp/hold cutting tool for the cut??
I'd like to see more of that too! :question:

Frank&Earnest
25th April 2007, 01:06 PM
Stu, as an ex metal turner, I'm absolutely intrigued!! Having no fixed tool post (ie metal lathe) How did you adapt for turning?? What tool did you use? How did you clamp/hold cutting tool for the cut??

Congrats.....a great thread!!!!

Ditto for the congratulations. As regards the technique, the photo is self-explanatory as regards the tool rest, and the tool I guess is a square scraper cutting on any of the corners (with frequent sharpening of all 4 :D and a good sanding afterwards...) That's how I have done it (ETA on brass, that's easier), anyway... but I can't call myself a turner! Did I guess right?

Stu in Tokyo
25th April 2007, 02:41 PM
Ditto for the congratulations. As regards the technique, the photo is self-explanatory as regards the tool rest, and the tool I guess is a square scraper cutting on any of the corners (with frequent sharpening of all 4 :D and a good sanding afterwards...) That's how I have done it (ETA on brass, that's easier), anyway... but I can't call myself a turner! Did I guess right?


You guessed right! :2tsup:

Yes, frequent visits to the grinder are needed, but it really don't take that long, remember, this is mild steel I'm turning, and the turning tools are HSS:D

Thanks for the comments guys, I got busy over at another forum that some of us started, well I kind of got dragged into it, not complaining, but it is a heck of a lot of work!

Nice to come here and let my hair down :roll:

The Dungeon has not got me yet!!

Video eh?

Well, we DID buy a brand new spanking video camera as my eldest graduated from elementary school..... (yes, the have these HUGE ceremonies when you grad from grade school!! :rolleyes:).

I'll work on the video.....

Cheers!

Skew ChiDAMN!!
25th April 2007, 04:20 PM
Excellent stuff, Stu! Almost tempts me to make my own... but the long walk to my local steel supplier (and my inherent laziness :rolleyes: ) puts the kabosh on that. For a while, anyway...

Still, I've saved this thread to my HDD. :wink:

joe greiner
25th April 2007, 11:32 PM
I really like the interchangeable intermediate shaft for different end configurations. I've turned brass by hand, but I'm not too keen on turning steel by hand, even mild steel; might have to consider it just for the thrill. For those of us without welding skills or tools, I think the D-handle could be made with lapped corners (maybe two bolts each corner). This would also eliminate any possibility of slipping off the capture frame while you're concentrating on the business end. Of course, just a wee bit of planning would avoid this anyway.

TTIT, cobalt drills work pretty well in harder steel, too. Haven't tried them in HSS yet.

Joe

OGYT
28th April 2007, 01:32 AM
Joe, a hole drilled vertically, through the back end of the D-handle, with a nail dropped through it, will keep it from sneaking through the capture rig.
That's the way I made mine. (Only the nail is a hinge pin). :D
Nice setup, Stu!

Stu in Tokyo
28th April 2007, 05:33 AM
Great idea about the limiter, but I'm already finding that my D-handle might be too long, I have a wall fairly close by.... :rolleyes:

I tried posting some pics of the HF I'm working on, but the pics did not work...?

I'll try again.....

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I put this piece of Ginko wood on the lathe that, from the outside looked destined for the burn pile...

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has some nice figure in it, some bark inclusions, and all sorts of other stuff......

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Perfect for my second ever HF :doh:

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Sure makes a mess eh :2tsup:



Cheers!

Stu in Tokyo
28th April 2007, 06:28 AM
Well, I got some more time in on it tonight, not enough to get near done but .......

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While refining my form, I got some NASTY tear out Try as I might, I could NOT get rid of all of it, upped the speed, the tools were sharp, and I did the best I could but....:aro-u:

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Then I picked up my Eli Avisera bowl finishing tool, boy did it work great!!

Now I know my skills are still lacking with the bowl gouge, but man, did this tool save my bacon!:yeah:

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Next I wrapped it up good with that saran warp kind of stuff, flat twine, I think they call it, and kept at it.

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I got about 80% of it hollowed out, and this cut so much cleaner than that other one I tried, I'm sure happy with it, but I could not really judge where the outside was from the inside, so I stopped before I had a blow out.

I'll be buying a laser pointer and rigging it to my D-handle soon.

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Another shot, different lighting to show the inside, well to TRY to show the inside.....:cool:
..........................

Stu in Tokyo
28th April 2007, 06:29 AM
..................
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I'm not going to get it done today, or even tomorrow, hopefully on Sunday, so I stuffed it back up with wet shavings, and..........

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Bagged it once more, hope it holds up

Cheers!

WillyInBris
28th April 2007, 06:48 AM
Hi Stu fantastic work,

I think next week I am going to go down to metal-corp and start building one as well.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
28th April 2007, 06:59 AM
What you planning on finishing with, Stu?

I find that for leaving work on the lathe, I have better results with coating the outside with Danish Oil then pouring some inside and giving her a tumble. But I usually finish in DO anyway, so there's no "clashing products" problem there.

I've lost too many unfinished pieces from bagging and DO isn't that expensive here.

Stu in Tokyo
28th April 2007, 08:39 PM
Well it looks like I got about 98% of the hollowing done today, ran out of time, I'll finish it tomorrow.

I'm not sure what I'll finish it with, I guess you have to finish the inside too eh :?

I really don't want to change the color, so maybe just some blond shellac or something?

I got my lase today :2tsup:

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Here is the set. I went for this unit, as it was a straight cylinder, the others in the price range were not, also the body is aluminum, not plastic. It also takes the standard AAA batteries, no the half length AAAA batteries the other seem to all take. I bought two sets of rechargeable batteries and the charges, all for about $50 US, but I had a points card at this electronics store, so I paid nothing for them, zip, zero, nada :2tsup:

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here you can see the laser dot, I was surprised it was not round....?

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Here is my jig, kind of thrown together, it works, but I see the faults in my design. The aluminum tube on top is too bouncy, too flexible, it makes the laser dot wiggle all over the place, and the whole wooden block thing, while it works, I could be better. Next time I go shopping at my DIY place, I'll buys some thick chunks of aluminum, and some steel tubes, and make a better set up, but it does work!! :D

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Here the laser is somewhat short, this means I'm still mostly on the HF, and the thickness is about 8mm or so (I set the gap between the edge of the laser dot and the cutter at about 5mm)

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Here the laser is mostly off the HF, the Saran Wrap stuff is there too, so that adds to the thickness.
As it turns out, I was able to do almost all of the hollowing with the two tools I have, but one between the straight boring rod and the 45 cutter would have been a lot easier, so I'l l have to make one! :rolleyes:

Going to unwrap it tomorrow, and then let it dry for a week or two, I sure hope it does not crack on me.............. any advice on what to do? It was moist, but not dripping wet.

Cheers!

Stu in Tokyo
29th April 2007, 06:17 AM
OK, I got this one parted off and in the DNA bath......

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The colors are amazing, but I think they will fade, who knows?

I sure hope it holds together!

Well, on to the next one!! :2tsup:

Bill Wyko
29th April 2007, 06:38 AM
Stu, thats a real beauty. Thanks for the step by step too. I just ordered the Clark Hollowing system and the Clark steady rest but If I hadn't I'd be making one like yours. Great job on the tools and the vessel. I look foreward to seeing more from you.:2tsup:

Stu in Tokyo
29th April 2007, 06:50 AM
Hey Bill, nice to see you here!

Hope you can show us some of your great work! :2tsup:

Cheers!

rodent
30th April 2007, 02:40 AM
HEY stu try this if you can get the front off your lazer ? put a piece of thin card in there with a pin hole in it you can open up the hole to as large as you want . It makes for a cleaner spot .

Stu in Tokyo
30th April 2007, 05:57 AM
HEY stu try this if you can get the front off your lazer ? put a piece of thin card in there with a pin hole in it you can open up the hole to as large as you want . It makes for a cleaner spot .

thanks, I'll give it a go!

Stu in Tokyo
6th May 2007, 06:46 AM
Just a follow up here.

I could not get the front of my laser off, it is one piece, so I took a thin piece of cardboard, and put some double sided tape on it, then cut it into a small circle, and stuck it on the front of my laser. Thus stuck, I trimmed it to size, then I used a sharp awl and put a small hole in it, I ended up making the hole a bit bigger, but still the laser dot is now round, and about 1/4 the size it was, great improvement.

Thanks for the suggestion rodent!!

Cheers!