steep learning curve!

[s_m]

I downloaded Sketchup a few nights back and had a very frustrating time - all I managed to draw was a rectangle in two dimensions! :((

Last nite I caved and watched half of the intro tutorial until I figured out how it would let me draw in three dimensions. So then I mocked up the TV stand I want to build this term (and possibly next too :B) at evening class.

The first go was pretty bodgy but then I took the time to put depth on all my timbers and it came up much better :D.

Steph

[zenwood]

Neato, Steph! I recommend making extensive use of the component features in Sketchup. Select the item, go right-click>make component. Components can be nested inside other components too, so, for example, your drawer sides, front, back and bottom can be made as individual components. These can then be assembled into a 'drawer' component, then the drawers can simply be duplicated as many times as you want. You can then drill down and edit, say, the drawer front component, and all the drawers will magically follow suit. The stored files will also take up less memory if you use multiple components.

Nice work on the wood texturing too.

[s_m]

The wood texturing is from a pic of our Chiswell buffet. Once I have done a finished sample of the blackbutt I'm currently leaning towards then I cam demo that too!

I have a small confession tho - there is nothing behind the drawer fronts in my model :B...

I have just drawn up the design for my daughter's "big bed" based on the one on the cover of the Taunton bed book. I have moved the rails up 5cm as it will be mattress on slats only and omitted the slatted high foot. Still not sure about the foot design but it's much easier to visualise like this!

I drew in all the slats on the bed head manually which was very silly since I guess the component function would make this so much quicker and easier!

Steph

[zenwood]

The slats would be ideal component-fodder. Make one, do a ctrl-move copy, type 20x, and bingo! you have 20 slats evenly spaced along your bed-head (e.g. the 10-men-in-a-bed version attached).

On that bed, I'd be very wary of the bits sticking out either side at the foot. They are just the right height to bash your leg on each time you walk round the corner of the bed (DAMHIKT)

[s_m]

So do I make the cap for the foot of the bed higher eg top of mattress level? Or narrower eg 5mm beyond side of posts the same hangover as front/back? Or both?

I am not sure I like the look of the foot. Wondering about making the foot legs another 15cm or so higher with a 5cm rail beneath the cap and 10cm gap above the foot rail but no slats?

Steph

[zenwood]

So do I make the cap for the foot of the bed higher eg top of mattress level? Or narrower eg 5mm beyond side of posts the same hangover as front/back? Or both?

I am not sure I like the look of the foot. Wondering about making the foot legs another 15cm or so higher with a 5cm rail beneath the cap and 10cm gap above the foot rail but no slats?

Steph
Here's a few options. (1) Duplicate the head at the foot but make it about half the height of the head. (2) Similar to (1) but without the slats, lightening the look while achieving balance. (3) A four-poster version for that wow! effect, and also capable of holding mosquito (or more romantic) netting.

[martrix]

+1 for option #1.:2tsup:

[s_m]

Thanks for the feedback and input!

Here is the design from the original plan (below) so you can see that it's pretty much Zenwood's #1.

I have omitted the head and foot leg wings (which cover bed bolt ends at rail level) since I will be using brackets and made the cap narrower.

I have lowered the foot because I don't want it to sit higher than the mattress. Other Half suggests omitting the cap from the foot altogether but then I'll end up with 50x50 end grain on the legs so I'm trying to find a way to tidy it up a bit.

It will be built of reclaimed Ash.

If I'm going to put a minimalist foot on it then should I drop the head height? The plan is this high because it's designed for an ensemble to sit 175mm off the floor.

The height I have the mattress will allow me (5ft6 tall) to sit on the bed with my feet flat on the floor. I will initially put the cleats and rails at the very bottom of the rails so the mattress will sit 5-8cm lower (about 45cm) so that a heavy 3yo can climb on and off by herself.

Steph

[zenwood]

Other Half suggests omitting the cap from the foot altogether ... so that a heavy 3yo can climb on and off by herself.
I know exactly where you and the other half are coming from, regarding the low foot, ability for 3yo to climb aboard etc. because we did exactly the same thing. I would heartily recommend NOT going down that route. The matress and covers will be much more stable with a proper foot, and you won't be dinging your legs on the corners. The bed will last 100 years, and your 3yo will have passed it on to her grandchildren by then.

[s_m]

Ok I can see your point and will have a think and chat to HWMBO - tho I can't believe I'm now considering milling 42 slats :doh:...

Steph

[flynnsart]

Just think how good you will be at doing it by the end of it.:D
Donna

[Bwillie]

OK.....OK....all of you have me drooling over Sketch Up which has been on my PC sitting idle for far too long.

Steph and Zen.........please tell me how to go about starting to learn this. I want to do it right, so be gentle....

Bill

[ozwinner]

Have a look here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=46736), there are lots of links to tutorials.

Al :)

[s_m]

Zen would be the one to give higher level advice but as my original post mentions I struggled to make more than a 2D rectangle until I watched about 2/3 of the Intro tutorial online.

Warning - it's addictive!!

Steph

[groovemachine]

Warning - it's addictive!!

Steph[/quote]

Yes I agree very addictive. You do get fustrated if you go through a tutorial and get stuck with no alternatives.

Thats why we have this forum i surpose.. :U

[s_m]

After constructing the five main panels for the cabinet I discovered it was going to be hugely difficult to get everything square when glueing them up into a frame (pic1)... not to mention massively heavy, cumbersome and requiring every clamp in the shop! :(

Decided to change the design and was prepared to buy more timber but discovered I can make a lighter (and easier to get square) frame by ripping the base panel down into several lengths (pic2). The rebate for the shelf has already been cut in the side panels so I have had to work the new design around that.

The end product will look pretty similar to the original plan once finished (pic3) except the central section of base will be plywood not hardwood.

I'd appreciate any comments on the new (hopefully improved) design?

Steph

[Pusser]

How will you allow for wood movement with a plywood panel inside a hardwood case? Just asking as I am trying to design a long low cabinet and did not want a solid timber base - price and time.

Pusser

[s_m]

Hmm actually I might not need to put a panel in there at all. There is already a rebate cut in the bottom of the side panels.

The cabinet will be on castors which I was thinking I'd mount to the timber rails which I could probably make wider (eg 100) because I have a 450 wide panel already made for the base.

Steph

[zenwood]

Looking good Steph. The latest FWW magazine has an article on the use of Sketchup in woodwork design; might be worth you having a read.

I recommend drawing all the details for drawer runners, small gaps for movement, joinery, etc. A lot easier to sort out those details in the drawing, than during construction.

Have you tried downloading models from the 3D warehouse? You could get hold of a TV, and castor models and add them in.