I find Boring Boring

[WillyInBris]

Hey guys all working well with boring the Pepper Mills out and have found it much easer using the Auger bit but its a pain in the ass stopping the lathe moving the tail stock forward then going again and again and again.

I was thinking of a screw setup to push the tail stock along thus pushing the auger bit forward in a continuous action.

Whats ya thoughts, remember I will be going for a bit of a production run and the wife has worked out I need to make 28units in total now.
:doh:

[DJ’s Timber]

The missus certainly has got you lined up for a few mills by the sounds of it, is that 28 individual mills or 28 pairs :o

As for your thought on setting up a screw of some sort, would need to check that your tail stock doesnt wander or lift cause you will no longer have it locked down to the bed. Some T/S can lift with the pressure of drilling.

[rsser]

Not sure I've got your drift Willy.

But you have to stop to clear the shavings anyway. No?

And you have a quill and handwheel on the tailstock. No?

FWIW, with smaller size boring bits I just snug but not lock the tailstock and get behind it and push. (And withdraw, and ... etc.)

[WillyInBris]

The missus certainly has got you lined up for a few mills by the sounds of it, is that 28 individual mills or 28 pairs :o

As for your thought on setting up a screw of some sort, would need to check that your tail stock doesnt wander or lift cause you will no longer have it locked down to the bed. Some T/S can lift with the pressure of drilling.

Thank god only 14 Pairs , but I can live with that as its still cheaper then how much the wife spent last year on the family's and friends.

Anyway I have noticed that with a bit of wd40 on the bed and not to much pressure (keeping the tailstock snug to the bed and a bit of slip it may work), the aim will be to bore them all at once.

[WillyInBris]

Not sure I've got your drift Willy.

But you have to stop to clear the shavings anyway. No?

And you have a quill and handwheel on the tailstock. No?

FWIW, with smaller size boring bits I just snug but not lock the tailstock and get behind it and push. (And withdraw, and ... etc.)

Hi Ern,

With the two trials with the auger bit and its largish 25mm I found that its ejecting the shavings well enough not to worry about clearing the shavings no burn marks and a clean cut on a 20cm shaft, I was having to clear the shavings with the Sawtooth bit setup and made it real slow.

I didn't really try the push idea it may work will see but I am unsure if I have that much strength.

[soundman]

what about some rope, pullies and a bit of weight.

OR

just push the thing by hand... the auger should just about self feed.

cheers

[rsser]

Linking two threads (jeez, stitching now?) ..

http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=45483&page=3

I haven't tried the auger Willy. Sounds fast and clean but they prob don't come in my sizes.

I just tried the McJing TCT 53mm forstner so FWIW here is the result with a piece of English elm endgrain. This timber is not as dense as many of ours tho this bit was pretty tight grained ....

The finish on the bottom was very clean, even with a knot down there.

On the wall it was pretty rough.

The bit moved around more than with my HSS 50mm sawtooth bit; which you'd expect given there are two spurs rather than a row of teeth.

It generated enough heat to produce noticeable smoke [edit: as does my existing, pretty blunt bit]. The spurs left a dark ring.

The finish on one blade was poor - so it's around 39 bucks compared to eg CMT at more than double that.

Obviously I can't comment on longevity yet and for me the critical thing is whether it will continue to cut well beyond the sharpening time of my existing HSS bit.

So, upshot: it works well for hogging out a bore in the applications I have for it (pencil jars and lidded boxes). If you used one for a pepper grinder and were fussy you'd need to clean up the grain on the exposed side at the bottom.

[Rance]

Willy,

As for having to move the TS to get the depth. It seems that this could be a case of "using the right tool for the job". If you were just doing one or two, the lathe might be a good choice (ie. not having to re-chuck the piece, thus loosing alignment). But for 28, I think a drill press might be better. Longer quill travel and made for drilling. Maybe find a way to drill first, then chuck in the lathe using the bore as the axis for the next step.

As for burning, I'd guess you are not pushing the bit in fast enough. Too much prolonged contact with the same wood. Either that or dull bit problems, or both.

Just my 2c worth.

Rance