Finally a topic I know something about

[BrissyBrew]

Any brewing questions dont be afraid to post

cheers
frank

[fred.n]

Send us down a couple, I'll try them, then ask the relevant questions :D

[Cliff Rogers]

Good on ya Frank. :2tsup:

Can you make or tell me how to make anything as good as Tooheys Old?

[echnidna]

If I use distillers yeast in a beer brew how much sugar do I need to add to get a beer with 17% alcohol

[Sir Stinkalot]

Ok here is one ....

I am just about to start a Boag's Premium with the following kit:

Start with beerkit: Black Rock Lager
Use Brewblend: #60
Malt Extract: 500g light
Yeast: Saflager
Other Stuff: 10g Saaz hop pellets. Simmer in a cup of water for 2 min then stand for 10 min before straining into beer mixture.

The beer kit conversion #60 German Larger states that you should use SAFlager yeast as per above. When speaking with my local home brew guy who I trust, he said just use the regular yeast that came with the black rock lager as the difference is very light. No problem there but the question is:
The #60 kit recommends that the SAFlarger yeast be used at a fermation temp of 10-15c (Do not use heater). If I was to substitute the yeast from the Black Rock kit would I need to brew at regular temperature to get the yeast going? and if so will it impact on the quality of the final Boag's Premium?

Ohh one more thing. I have an unopened light dried malt that has gone all hard. Can I crush it up again and use it?

[Bluegum]

I just bottled a beez knees a couple of weeks ago.

One can of Mutons wheat beer'
One brew booster,
200 grams of honey.

brew before it was a carlsberg mock up

Can of Munich Lager,
1 KG of brew booster,
500 grams of light malt,
12 grams of Singha steep hops.

Tastes pretty good and reckon that i may do it again.:2tsup:

[Cliff Rogers]

If I use distillers yeast in a beer brew how much sugar do I need to add to get a beer with 17% alcohol
Give up & buy a bottle of port. :D


Ok here is one ....

I am just about to start a Boag's Premium with the following kit:...
Give us a yell if you need somebody to sample it for you. :2tsup:

[Glenn_M]

Stinky,

My preference would be for the SAFLager yeast. IMHO this is a good, clean yeast with a strong ferment in the 10-12C range.

The yeast that came with the Black Rock Lager kit is *likley* to be an Ale yeast. If it's a high temp Lager yeast (ala steam beer) or a combination (ala Koelsch) then the flavour profile will not come closer to Boags to do introduction of higher order alcohols in the high temp ferment.

So my advice would be go with the SafLager.

Also if you aren't already - use a yeast starter rather than adding dry yeast to the wort. The increased rate of fermentation will create a cleaner brew with less change of infection in the critical initial 24-28hrs

Prost!

Glenn

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Any brewing questions dont be afraid to post

Any?

OK then, what smart-asre came up with the idea of calling the science of brewing zymurgy? And why?

:D

[ss_11000]

why do carb drops taste so good???lol

[BrissyBrew]

Good on ya Frank. :2tsup:

Can you make or tell me how to make anything as good as Tooheys Old?
Hi Cliff are you brewing witha kit or all grain?

[BrissyBrew]

If I use distillers yeast in a beer brew how much sugar do I need to add to get a beer with 17% alcohol
Do you want to brew beer, or distrill the final product, because a 17% high gravity beer will take experience and 6 months or more to age. If you use distillers yeast it will take horrible. Your better off with a high gravity trappist yeast. You will of course need to make a starter as well.

[BrissyBrew]

Ok here is one ....

I am just about to start a Boag's Premium with the following kit:

Start with beerkit: Black Rock Lager
Use Brewblend: #60
Malt Extract: 500g light
Yeast: Saflager
Other Stuff: 10g Saaz hop pellets. Simmer in a cup of water for 2 min then stand for 10 min before straining into beer mixture.

The beer kit conversion #60 German Larger states that you should use SAFlager yeast as per above. When speaking with my local home brew guy who I trust, he said just use the regular yeast that came with the black rock lager as the difference is very light. No problem there but the question is:
The #60 kit recommends that the SAFlarger yeast be used at a fermation temp of 10-15c (Do not use heater). If I was to substitute the yeast from the Black Rock kit would I need to brew at regular temperature to get the yeast going? and if so will it impact on the quality of the final Boag's Premium?

Ohh one more thing. I have an unopened light dried malt that has gone all hard. Can I crush it up again and use it?

First of all if you want a true lager finish your better off using a liquid yeast. However true german larger yeast is comming soon as a dry alternative but currently not avaialbe in Australia. However fermentation at lower temperatures is necessary, even for dried but that depends on the strain. I am not sure what black rock use in there kits, it is most likely repackaged danstar Saflarger but I am unsure on this issue. The DME is ok just boil it up and it should be fine. Yeast profile is important for lager's crisp clean flavour profile. Temperature control for fermentation is also as important as the stain of yeast you use.

[BrissyBrew]

Any?

OK then, what smart-asre came up with the idea of calling the science of brewing zymurgy? And why?

:D
actually Zymurgy or zymology is the study of the fermentation process, so technically it includes process outside what would normally be referred as brewing, eg ethonol production and the like.

Of course the american magazine call zymurgy about brewing beer has changed the contemporary use the work somewhat to referr to brewing science.

[Cliff Rogers]

Good on ya Frank. :2tsup:

Can you make or tell me how to make anything as good as Tooheys Old?


Hi Cliff are you brewing witha kit or all grain?
Nothing at all yet, I still buy readyrolled at the Little Bottler 'cos I haven't found anything better.

[ernknot]

zgot me beet (hic)

[Jedo_03]

back in england - years ago - me and the missus did home brewing seriously...
made wines too - elderberry was the best... picked the elderberries from the banks of the river wear in the shadow of Penshaw Monument...
high tannin content... brilliant wine...
peach and banana wine - excellent: banana wine clears superbly...

beers: used to malt our own local-grown barley and wheat...
made our own Guiness a few times... roast the barley and wheat first, then crack it, then 'must' it... got close...

most unusual was "Cock-Ale" - basic barley and wheat brew, bottom-brew yeast... then add RAW chicken neck (suspended in brew on string)... Old Friar recipe) - seems the proteins from the chicken acts on the yeast to aid brewing... Only tried this once... It brewed out ok... bottled ok... tasted ok... and we're still alive...

Nowadays, we still brew - but only from kits... nothing adventurous...
favourite is cider...
that's what I'm (hic) on tonight (hic)....
Cheers
jedo

[Iain]

Can Tooheys Old kit
750g DME
750g LME
Safale yeast
tatsinger (sp) hops

Comes out a beautiful deep burgundy with a nice mouthfeel, soft with a nice spicy finish, matures within 2 weeks after secondary and is drinkable, better after two months, do not refrigerate as it kills the subtle flavours.

Another is the Cervesa kit with the juice of 3 lemons added, takes a while to mature but is a nice thirst killer on a hot day, use the recommended brewing sugar on the pack, #2 for memory.

[Cliff Rogers]

Good on ya Iain. :2tsup:

[himzol]

First of all if you want a true lager finish your better off using a liquid yeast. However true german larger yeast is comming soon as a dry alternative but currently not avaialbe in Australia. However fermentation at lower temperatures is necessary, even for dried but that depends on the strain. I am not sure what black rock use in there kits, it is most likely repackaged danstar Saflarger but I am unsure on this issue. The DME is ok just boil it up and it should be fine. Yeast profile is important for lager's crisp clean flavour profile. Temperature control for fermentation is also as important as the stain of yeast you use.



SAFLAGER W-34/70 is a pretty good dry german lager yeast.

[himzol]

4 kg Vienna
1 kg Pilsner
250g caramalt
250g wheat
500g melanoiden

40g Spalter @ start of boil
25 g of tettnang @45min

Wyeast 2206

What do you think?

H.

[Sir Stinkalot]

Temperature control for fermentation is also as important as the stain of yeast you use.

I know it is difficult to answer without knowing the yeast but if I use the yeast that came with the Blackrock Larger what temp should I be brewing at?

[himzol]

I know it is difficult to answer without knowing the yeast but if I use the yeast that came with the Blackrock Larger what temp should I be brewing at?

I would say 18 to 20, generally the kits get packed with an Ale type yeast which prefers warmer temps. I do have a friend who likes his fermentation to go quick and he ferments at 25, but this can give you some interesting flavours.

For a larger I would try and keep the temps as low as possible even if using the Kit Yeast, probably wouldn't go above 18.

H.

[Iain]

25 g of tettnang @45min



H.

Thanks, always bugger up the spelling of those hops, originally used as a preservative for those who are interested in HB, never intended as a flavouring or bittering agent.
If you want bitter though, try Pride of Ringwood, that is super bitter ++++++

[himzol]

Thanks, always bugger up the spelling of those hops, originally used as a preservative for those who are interested in HB, never intended as a flavouring or bittering agent.
If you want bitter though, try Pride of Ringwood, that is super bitter ++++++

Yeah, I'm mainly using it for aroma in this instance. was going to add it at flame out but thought what the hey see if it does add anything to the spalter.

Love the POR, use it quite a bit in what I refer to as aussie amber, POR and Nottingham ale yeast...mmmmmmm

H.

[robbiewy]

Any?

OK then, what smart-asre came up with the idea of calling the science of brewing zymurgy? And why?

:D
Zymurgy or zymology is the study of the chemistry involved in the fermentation process. It was originally used to describe the science involved in these processes, but it has become a term to describe the brewing of alcoholic beverages. A zymurgist is the person who studies zymurgy.
Zymurgy is the name of a home brewers magazine, and can be found in the names of organizations involved in brewing alcohol.
Louis Pasteur was the first zymologist, when in 1857 he connected yeast to fermentation. Pasteur originally defined fermentation as "respiration without air". The German Edward Buchner, winner of the 1907 Nobel Prize in chemistry, later determined that fermentation was actually caused by a yeast secretion that he termed zymase.

[robbiewy]

Here's my beer fridge.:D

[fxst]

Good on ya Frank. :2tsup:

Can you make or tell me how to make anything as good as Tooheys Old?

simple answer get a Tooheys old kit (1kg) use a can of liquid dark malt (1.5 kg) mix together in fermenter add the supplied yeast and close lid
7-10 days later bottle with your usual sugar or carb drops cap and leave for couple months
refrigerate and drink cold
I never brew using sugar always malt seems to produce a quality beer every time and holds a nice head as well.
I gave up making brews from scratch in the late 70's to time consuming plus the kits where getting better.
Another one to try is Canadian Blonde and 1 kilo honey (blended is ok) for a subtle brew with a hint of honey
Pete (the mad brewer)

[Cliff Rogers]

Thanks Pete, more food for thought. :2tsup:

[Iain]

Looks a lot like mine Pete, try the hops at the end (pellets) and the Safale, makes for some subtle differences.

[Wild Dingo]

:yikes: What the bloody blue blazes are yous mob yabberin on about?? :stars: I thought the only home brew was the brew yer bought home and drank later on??? :fisch:

man am I feelin seriously old here... an depra... eerr deprived :C

okay... can a bloke without spendin an arm leg an the missus's boobs get into this home brewin caper to wheel out a nice Crownie or two?.. I like crownies... an colds what about a nice cold or ten?... I like colds too... Id heard you could make everything right through to champers an that sorta stuff nowadays is that right? cause brother will that save us a shyteload with the double up wedding weve got in our futures... what about a nice spirir or two rum maybe? what sorta alcoholic content can a bloke expect cause its pointless havin a nice tastin rum if it doesnt blow yer jocks of in two gulps is it?... an what about some liquures can you brew that stuff? cause Im right partial to that Kahlua much but its too damned week an tastes like shyte when I add anything to it... Ive tried vodka rum scotch brandy but nothin seems to do it with that stuff so I reckon if I can brew me own I could make it a humdinger that the missus would still like but turn her into a ra... ahem but can yer do that sorta brewin as well?

See Ive got this plan you know?... gonna build this new house an make the study into a bar... so Im gonna have to start to brew I guess an make all me own booze for the upcomin nuptiuals the forthcomin phissups an the lazy evenings sittin on the porch

Anyway help if you can :2tsup:

[Iain]

Most of us get into HB to get away from tasteless shyte like Cold and Crown.
Sorry to burst your bubble but there are some lovely flavours to be enjoyed once you get into it, but, and it is a big but, don't expect miracles on your first brew.
I have won a few competitions at shows but most of the opposition was a lager kit, supplied yeast and a kilo of white sugar, tatses like crap, because it is crap and doesn't take long to work a way around it.
The only HB I have found that is close to acceptable out of the pack is the Cervesa...........with the recomended sugars and a some lemon juice, and a long, 3 months at least, lageringcold conditioning period.

[himzol]

:yikes: What the bloody blue blazes are yous mob yabberin on about?? :stars: I thought the only home brew was the brew yer bought home and drank later on??? :fisch:

man am I feelin seriously old here... an depra... eerr deprived :C

okay... can a bloke without spendin an arm leg an the missus's boobs get into this home brewin caper to wheel out a nice Crownie or two?.. I like crownies... an colds what about a nice cold or ten?... I like colds too... Id heard you could make everything right through to champers an that sorta stuff nowadays is that right? cause brother will that save us a shyteload with the double up wedding weve got in our futures... what about a nice spirir or two rum maybe? what sorta alcoholic content can a bloke expect cause its pointless havin a nice tastin rum if it doesnt blow yer jocks of in two gulps is it?... an what about some liquures can you brew that stuff? cause Im right partial to that Kahlua much but its too damned week an tastes like shyte when I add anything to it... Ive tried vodka rum scotch brandy but nothin seems to do it with that stuff so I reckon if I can brew me own I could make it a humdinger that the missus would still like but turn her into a ra... ahem but can yer do that sorta brewin as well?

See Ive got this plan you know?... gonna build this new house an make the study into a bar... so Im gonna have to start to brew I guess an make all me own booze for the upcomin nuptiuals the forthcomin phissups an the lazy evenings sittin on the porch

Anyway help if you can :2tsup:

Hi Ding,

You can certainly make some nice beers on the cheap, don't know about the other stuff ( I haven't given them a go yet). The best advice I can give you is to visit a brewshop and get your self kitted out.

If your that fond of Fost... Ooops sorry Crownies then they should be able to give you all the ingrediants to make that. Just don't use the yeasts that come with any of the canned kits, except say something like a cider or gingerbeer.

This mob is probably one of the better brewshops in the west : http://www.homebru.com.au/

H.

[BrissyBrew]

I have been into home brewing, all grain for a couple of years now, and people I know are home brewing and craft brewing are there to make better beer not to save money.

[himzol]

I have been into home brewing, all grain for a couple of years now, and people I know are home brewing and craft brewing are there to make better beer not to save money.


Yes - I do full grain as well, and do it for the taste, however my beers still work out cheaper than the stuff thats comercially available. Which is the point I was trying to make.

I'll be perfectly honest, my initial motivation to start Home brewing was to get good tasting beers cheap. Which is why I've spent so much money on it. :D :D

H.

[BrissyBrew]

Yes - I do full grain as well, and do it for the taste, however my beers still work out cheaper than the stuff thats comercially available. Which is the point I was trying to make.

I'll be perfectly honest, my initial motivation to start Home brewing was to get good tasting beers cheap. Which is why I've spent so much money on it. :D :D

H.
Yep your right it eventually works out cheaper than commerical beer of a similar quality. But home brew seems to be an equipment intensive hobby, but I guess everything is, which is as you put it why we spend so much money on it.

[Bluegum]

So true there Brissybrew. I reckon that i get about 3 slabs per kit which costs me about $20-25. Excellent value considering that the beer tastes that much better than comercially brewed stuff. I just did a reschs pilsener last weekend and will bottle next week. Next brew i think will be a heiniken or becks don't know which yet.

[bpj1968]

If you think this forum is good for wood, then for beer you can;t go past

http://www.homebrewandbeer.com/forum/
recipes gear etc. etc. etc.


Fairly how-to

http://www.homebrewandbeer.com/

I started brewing becasue it is cheap and I like to make stuff. As I got better, so did the taste and now tastes a lot better than bought.

I used to love COLD, but now find them "chemical" The commercial beer of choice is now Boags.

DINGO. You can get into this with a very basic kit.


25 -30 litre drum with screw top lid for a good seal and a tap (even at bunnies)
airlock to seal it (some argue not needed)
"lil bottler" for filling bottles.
Carbonation drops OR 1 teaspoon sugar per bottle (More makes more gas, and glass time bombs)
caps and capper
At the start cans and sugar aren't bed, but get much better result from dextrose and quality yeast. At the start you probably wouldn't notice the difference.

Then you start adding malt, different hops (taste/aroma/bitter). I like to put 250 gram dried corn syrup. Gets rid of the watery feel in the mouth.

[BrissyBrew]

www.ausiehomebrewer.com

[jimmyh]

Brissybrew...hmmm. I recognise that name from somewhere. Would that be the same Brissybrew that sells my Fridgemate controller :;

Top product by the way!

I spend most of my forum time on aussiehomebrewer.com but it's fantastic to know there are other brewers into woodworking as well. At the moment I'm making a cedar blanket box and a German Pilsner (AG) simultaneously. The beer is coming along much quicker than the box btw, bloody sanding.... Anyway, I'll be checking this forum regularly from now on, 'cause I love both my hobbies. It's good to know that someone like Brissybrew is around to offer advice on both subjects!

[Iain]

Anyway, I'll be checking this forum regularly from now on, 'cause I love both my hobbies.

We eagerly await your recipe for sawdust or shavings lager/ale/beer:D :D :D :D

[BrissyBrew]

Brissybrew...hmmm. I recognise that name from somewhere. Would that be the same Brissybrew that sells my Fridgemate controller :;

Top product by the way!

guilty as charged.

[Iain]

Given that Brissybrew is on line I have a kegging question.
I have just kegged two ales and gassed to 40 psi, this is my first attempt at kegging and I have the Harris regulator.
This little beast has 2 gauges but only one seems to work and the valve doesn't seem to do anything.
I had to rely on the valve on the gas tank to gas to the required pressure.
Secondly, how long do I leave it gassed for before reducing the pressure for serving.
The kegs are sitting outside at the moment (no fridge and it cold enough overnight) so I assume absorbtion should be complete in a few days.
The regulator is what is confusing me or I have a dud.

[jimmyh]

Iain, you may have already sorted this out by now, but since noone else has posted a reply I'll give it a shot.


I have just kegged two ales and gassed to 40 psi40 PSI is way too high for the slow carbonation technique you are using.

There are any number of ways to carbonate a keg, but you will get the best results if you chill the keg down to about 4C before trying to carbonate. At this temperature it will be much easier for the gas to be absorbed into the beer and it will also be quicker.

You should not need to regulate the gas flow using the cylinder knob.

[Iain]

Thanks Jimmy, I am familiar with the low temp for gas absorption but given that we do not have a fridge I am reliant upon Victorias balmy weather at the moment:rolleyes: , I shall go out today and release some pressure and re-gas to about 7psi for the tap.
A local HB shop told me they gas to 110 psi for a week then drop to tap pressure, I have also read that gassing to 35-40 psi will also work.
Time will tell in this instance and I shall see what happens.
It seems that everyone has a different idea and I asm left at a complete loss.

[Cliff Rogers]

.....It seems that everyone has a different idea and I asm left at a complete loss.
Well here is an opening for some serious experimenting in the name of science. :2tsup:

[Jimbo2612]

Any tips for brewing lagers in QLD as I struggle to get the temp low enough. Or is it Ales for me?

[himzol]

Any tips for brewing lagers in QLD as I struggle to get the temp low enough. Or is it Ales for me?

Try an old fridge and one of these
http://www.mashmaster.com/p/365439/fridgemate-mkii-digital-temperature-controller-kit.html


Himzo

[John G]

Can you brew beer in 750mL screw top wine bottles?

Some websites say the glass isn't strong enough for the pressure, others say it is fine. Preferable to use coloured red-wine bottles instead of clear white wine bottles for obvious reasons.