Aux oilers

[outback]

How have you guys setup an aux oiler on ya CS mill?
Specifically, wotja use for the resovoir?
Howdja gittit onto/into the bar?

[DJ’s Timber]

OB have a look at my post#24 here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=43925&page=2&highlight=chainsaw+mill) in Martrix thread on Alaskan slabbing Jig

[BobL]

OB,

This thread has some stuff on Aux oilers.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=43925

My plan at the bar end for my new mill (It's in the same thread as above) is for a holey bolt through the bar.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?p=499154#post499154

Im now looking at ideas for tanks. I'm also thinking of just mounting the tank on the mill frame itself so maybe an old mower or wipper-snipper fuel tank? I've also thought of using a cheap garden spray tank as they generally come with a valve and tubes etc. One could even pressurise them although you don't really want a pressure drop in the middle of the cut.

The boys on ArboristeSite also suggest using a needle valve and an on/off valve so you don't have to set the flow rate every time.

Cheers

[martrix]

OB,

This thread has some stuff on Aux oilers.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=43925

My plan at the bar end for my new mill (It's in the same thread as above) is for a holey bolt through the bar.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?p=499154#post499154

Im now looking at ideas for tanks. I'm also thinking of just mounting the tank on the mill frame itself so maybe an old mower or wipper-snipper fuel tank? I've also thought of using a cheap garden spray tank as they generally come with a valve and tubes etc. One could even pressurise them although you don't really want a pressure drop in the middle of the cut.

The boys on ArboristeSite also suggest using a needle valve and an on/off valve so you don't have to set the flow rate every time.

Cheers
Yep, whatever you do Bob, make it solid and 99% reliable. The little plastic one I whipped from an old bottle and some irrigation fittings works, but its messy (leaks) and a bit of a PITA.

I will make one like you suggested with the tube that is fixed to the bar and feeds directly into the guide channels with reliable on/off and flow rate valves. The tank will be bolted to the mill.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=47192&stc=1&d=1180530746

Here is my first 15 minute effort for an oiler.:C

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=43107

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=43109


Here is TTIT's aux oiler. Don't know anything about it and maybe he can tell us some more about it. Looks pretty neat though.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=40660

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=40661

[BobL]

Good summary Martrix.

I like TTITs clothes peg adjuster. I reckon we should make it a rule that you can't show any aux oilers for CS mills on the forum without including a regular clothes peg in the picture! :D :D

Cheers

[outback]

All good food for thought. I need to mod mine a bit, the guard for the tip is a bit dodgy I reckon, needs to be safer.
I was thinking of incorporating the oiler somehow with the guard, all looks do-able, somehow, somewhere.

[TTIT]

Good summary Martrix.

I like TTITs clothes peg adjuster. I reckon we should make it a rule that you can't show any aux oilers for CS mills on the forum without including a regular clothes peg in the picture! :D :D

CheersThe clothes peg was actually used to pinch the tube to stop the oil between slabs! - when we remembered to put it on - "that grain shows up nice where you poured the water on!" - "huh - what water?!?!?" :-:-
The original brass fish-tank valve was too restrictive and didn't let enough oil through even with the guts removed :~ Next time we get a log, at the last minute, I'll get around to putting a bigger or second line in - the sprinkler system fittings are just a tad too small. The bottle is one of those measured-dose types which I thought would be handy when the mill is tipped up for fuelling and starting etc - breathes without spilling.:;

[BobL]

OK - we've talked about it. Martrix has drawn a nice picture of it but I thought I would finally have a go at doing it. That is making an outboard "in-chain-bar-groove-oiler" line. Sorry about the poor photos but I'm not going down the shed to take em again its too cold down there!

Photo 1 shows 5/16 x 1.5" high tensile bolt with 3/16" hole drilled down the centre.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=47589&stc=1&d=1180961856
It doesn't need to be a high tensile bolt which BTW are a PITA to drill. Drilling a straight hole is harder than it looks but it doesn't matter if it pokes out the side as long as the break out is near the head of the bolt, you will have to drill a hole in the side anyway.

I used a 3/16 round file to file a groove in the side of the bolt.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=47590&stc=1&d=1180962069

Next, drilling the hole in the bar. It's an old Oregon bar so I was not that concerned if I messed up. Marking it up was tricky. I had heard that quality CS bars are hard, you will need a TC tipped bite yadda, yadda. Thus I did not want to be poking a fine bit inside the chain groove to make a fluid connection with the hole so I marked up for a 1mm overlap between the hole and the bottom of the groove.

I first made a pilot hole with a brand new standard 3 mm HSS bit and it cut through the bar easily enough using lotsa coolant and a medium pressure on the DP. Then I switched to a 5/16" TC tipped drill and it went through the bar with very little trouble, a normal HSS would have done it with only a little more trouble.

With the bolt in the hole there is a 2 - 3 mm long connection with the bar groove so there is plenty of area for the oil to flow.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=47591&stc=1&d=1180962453

It's just a whisker too close for my liking because if the bolt rotates in its hole the bottom of the drive links will hit the bolt. :oo: :oo: :oo: It's therefore important to mark the bolt head (I filed 2 lines into the head) to ensure correct orinentation is maintained. I will probably file the threads off the bolt in line with the groove so this cannot happen.

So here is the final thing, ready for the oil line from the aux tank to be attached.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=47592&stc=1&d=1180962744

When I do it next time I will drill the hole about 5 mm further back from the groobe and then drill a 3 mm hole from the bottom of the chain groove to the bolt hole.

You may also ask why I am placing the hole so close to the bar nose. This is because my mill outboard clamp grabs the very end of the nose to maximize cutting length. If I move my Aux oil hole further back along the bar I lose cutting length.

[martrix]

nice one Bob. Maybe a nice coat of Loctite and tighten the bejezzus out of it.

Very interested to hear how it works.:2tsup:

[DJ’s Timber]

Looks great Bob :2tsup:, all you need to do now is mount it on the beast

[TTIT]

Simple but functional - good one Bob!:U Hmmm - got some brass spray fittings there that would fit the task nicely......

[outback]

Well done Bob, I've got the tank part sussed out as to what I'll do, Ive got the theory, plus insight now on the bar. The hose and fittings have me stumped. I don't want to spend a fortune, but small irrigation stuff is too small. I was thinking fuel hose, if I can get needle valves etc.

[BobL]

Well done Bob, I've got the tank part sussed out as to what I'll do, Ive got the theory, plus insight now on the bar. The hose and fittings have me stumped. I don't want to spend a fortune, but small irrigation stuff is too small. I was thinking fuel hose, if I can get needle valves etc.

Here's a quick brain drain of Aux Oiler ideas after a few beers with BIL about an hour ago (in no particular order and no actual experience).
1) Needle valves: old camping gas stove valves, Oxy torch valves, expired gas bottle valves.
2) On/off valve: 12 mm plastic irrigation barb stop cock, Pressurised PP domestic water filter fittings, peg!
3) Hoses: Because of the oil viscosity I figure you need ~6mm diameter or more, clear 6 - 12mm PVC tube, Old SS covered shower hose, that blue pressure PP domestic water filter hose that uses compression fittings (see bunnys), flexible SS covered pressure hose would look schmick!
4) Tanks: sealed length of PVC pipe, all manner of plastic bottles and containers, old mower or wipper/snipper fuel tanks.

As TTIT says, some brass or plastic garden spray gear should be OK. I have one of these placcy tanks with brass fittings but I'm going the whole hog and getting BIL to make me a "cylindrical" ally tank from a length of 100mm diam ally pipe, that I can tap threads into with security.

Cheers

[BobL]

I reckon I have solved the problem of the rotating oiler bolt tube potentially interfering with the chain drive links.

What I did was (on the side opposite the oil escape hole) hacksaw a slot for a 3 mm metal tab into the bolt head. The slot also extends along the bolt thread by the thickness of the CS bar. The metal tab was made from a piece from a broken jig saw blade and brazed into place and the ground down to suit.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=47667&stc=1&d=1181050748

In the bar I cut a slot in the respectve location with a jig saw and tidied the slot up with a needle file. The bolt now sits with the metal tab in the slot and will not turn. Probolemo solved!

Cheers