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weisyboy
2nd June 2007, 09:20 AM
i am thinking of buying an alaskan small log mill

any coments?

dose anyone have one?:?

DJ’s Timber
2nd June 2007, 09:58 AM
Haven't used one but know a few people with one and they have no probs with them, easy to use and adjust.

Main criteria really is the CS and type of chain, get yourself a ripping chain. Milling with a CS is hard on the CS. Let the CS do the work, don't force it.

outback
2nd June 2007, 11:05 AM
As we've said before, most of us have made our own. I think the Alaskans are a good thing. Have you checked out GB, basically the same thing, however they attach differently, so you lose a little less bar length. No idea on price difference.

As dj said, the big variables will start once you try and mill, then you have all the problems of the saw not big enough, crooked cutting, sharpening, too slow, too dusty, too hard.

But my oh my, they are nice slabs when you have milled them yourself. Good luck, if you can't buy a mill, either the Alaskan or Gb will serve you well.

BobL
2nd June 2007, 11:20 AM
Haven't used one but know a few people with one and they have no probs with them, easy to use and adjust.

Main criteria really is the CS and type of chain, get yourself a ripping chain. Milling with a CS is hard on the CS. Let the CS do the work, don't force it.

Do you mean the Granberg small log mill (http://www.granberg.com/)?

If yes, I can convert my small mill to act as such. I was attracted to it because it offers the advantage of lighter weight which over a long milling day does add up!.

I've only tried slabbing one small red gum log with it (running a 16" bar) and one thing I noticed is that since the bar is only attached at one end, the bar can bend slightly through the cut and the thickness of the slabs I cut were not as uniform as the slabs cut using a mill that holds the bar at both ends. I may simply have been pushing a bit too too hard and as DJ says this mill will work best (as do all CS mills, but especially this one) with a really sharp chain. The other difference is I was using it on some bone dry redgum and it would work much better in green or softwood. I would be interested in hearing about anyone who has used one with either of these.

I note the Granberg mill is recommended for bars up to 20" but I reckon they are a bit optimistic and I would be wary about using a bar/cut above 16" in dry Aussie hardwood.

From a safety point of view I think they are potentially more dangerous than 2 point bar hold mills with the nude bar/chain poking out the side of the log for an extended period during milling. While this is no different from some other mills , at least with a 2 point hold mill it's possible to add a guard onto the outboard end. For this reason (and the fact that I will soon have a bigger mill) I am not considering operating mine in this way again in the future.

Cliff Rogers
2nd June 2007, 11:26 AM
If you are going to buy one, have a look at Westford (http://www.vianet.net.au/~jemal/home.htm).

outback
2nd June 2007, 01:11 PM
Okey Dokey, I thought you meant a full size Alaskan mill, if you were talking about the type in Bob's link, then I'd suggest upsizing to the full size Alaskan.

I'd be interested to know how much the Westford is worth, and their rail mill, looks pretty simple, and effective.

BobR
2nd June 2007, 01:52 PM
This week I purchased a Stihl MS380 (3.6Kw, 72.2cc, 20" bar) along with the Alaskan Small Log Mill. This morning I tested it on a small camphor log. Except for a small amount of aprehension associated with my first cut it went like a dream. Will be interesting to see how it goes on hard wood.

The 36" Westford goes for about $483 +GST.

Cliff Rogers
2nd June 2007, 03:42 PM
... interested to know how much the Westford is worth, and their rail mill, looks pretty simple, and effective.
As Bob says the 36" Slab mill is about $500, the Rail Mill is around $1500 to $1800 from memeory depending on the options you get with it.
There is a basic unit & you can add extention pieces to it for longer logs & you can also add an optional winder to it, bit like a boat trailer winch to pull the rig along while it is cutting.

TEEJAY
2nd June 2007, 04:44 PM
I have a 48" Westford with 56" Titanium Bar and Stihl 95cc saw - it is a great setup - very happy with it.

Westford was about $450-500

I went Westford as it is Australian made.

outback
2nd June 2007, 05:54 PM
OK, Thanksh guys, that's shwell. I've always been impressed wih their rail mill. Oh well one day.

himzol
2nd June 2007, 06:46 PM
i am thinking of buying an alaskan small log mill

any coments?

dose anyone have one?:?


I've got one, and am very happy with it.

As BOBL has stated they do struggle with dry hardwoods, like redgum stringer posts that are almost pertified, but with a freshly cut tree they have no problem. I milled down an Oak that I couldn't get anybody to mill because it was considered too small.

A sharp chain is a must for all milling.

H.

BJP
3rd June 2007, 08:41 AM
I bought a 48" Westford about 12mths ago about $500 then, I also run a stihl magnum 088 with a 42" bar

BobL
3rd June 2007, 11:27 AM
I bought a 48" Westford about 12mths ago about $500 then, I also run a stihl magnum 088 with a 42" bar

Doesn't sound that small to me::wink: :D

BJP
3rd June 2007, 03:23 PM
Still to small for the log in djstimber`s thread, :D :D

weisyboy
6th June 2007, 02:18 PM
just orderd an alaskan small log mill and got a new chain for my sthil 034 with a 20"bar that i will be using with the mill, should get the mill tomorow cant weight.

thanks for all the coments it helped me make up my mind

nice slabs bob

thanks again

p.s. love the rain :U :D

we have had 45mm since last night.

weisyboy
6th June 2007, 07:31 PM
bob

what size saw is that?

how long did it take you to cut that slab?

what did you pay for yours?

mine was $412 and i am planing on running it on my sthil 034 with a 20" bar

BobR
6th June 2007, 11:06 PM
My CS is a Stihl MS 380 Magnum - 72.2cc with a 20" bar using an Oregon 75RD ripping chain.

The camphor in the images above was starting to dry out and the saw moved through it quite easily. From memory I would say a few minutes for each slab. However, the slabs in the images below were from a log that is quite green and were made today. My guess is that they are about 6' (2m) and took a good 5 minutes to cut. These saws don't move fast and the work is quite strenuous.

I payed $360 with free delivery across Sydney.

The slab second from the right in the last photo split about 30 seconds after the cut finished. Must have been a lot of stress in there. It was the middle slab.

weisyboy
7th June 2007, 07:41 PM
here's my new mill

havent used it yet, cant wait:roll: .

DJ’s Timber
7th June 2007, 07:50 PM
:pics:

outback
7th June 2007, 08:44 PM
Couldn't wait to attach the pics even.

weisyboy
8th June 2007, 06:34 PM
ha ha

here it is and my old sthil 034 AV (57.7cc) running a 20" bar with a normal sthil chiptooth chain.

weisyboy
8th June 2007, 06:42 PM
here are my first slabs

from an old hard bloodwood tree ready for a coffy table or bench seat each is 4' long and 1' wide they took 2mins each to cut.:U

martrix
8th June 2007, 06:52 PM
Nice one Weisy.:2tsup: Pretty nice looking timber too, looks like some good figure in there. Looks a little like redgum too.

So are you addicted yet or what?:D :cool:

DJ’s Timber
8th June 2007, 07:16 PM
Beautiful, top effort Weisy.

Where's the carbie cover off the CS?

weisyboy
8th June 2007, 07:29 PM
we lent the saw to a nabour and thaught he would be using it himself but he paid someone to cut some trees down with it and the tree started to fall towards him so he droped the saw and ran.

it smashed the mufler, broke the rubber spacers that stop the vibration (i fixed that with some wooden ones) and lost the cover off the back.

nether of our saws have them

weisyboy
8th June 2007, 07:33 PM
i hav one question about starting your cut

i used a set of timber rails i made for the first cut but when i went to start the second the front of the mill is on the log but there is nothing suporting the back so their is no way to keep the angle right so i joust used the rails for every cut they don't pose this problem as they stick past far enough to suport the whole mill.

how can i overcome this problem

DJ’s Timber
8th June 2007, 07:42 PM
I've got a few extra bars on mine, so I don't have this problem.

Could you rivet or bolt a short piece between the front and back piece?

weisyboy
8th June 2007, 09:17 PM
i thought about screwing a peice of ply or aluminium to the rails

BobR
8th June 2007, 10:08 PM
I did not find any problem with making the second cut. The leading edge of the bar is just behind front support so little chance for entry height error. I found that by just holding the saw level the back support followed. If you are using your initial cut boards on all subsequent cuts you won't be able to make thin cuts.

BobL
8th June 2007, 10:47 PM
Good one Weisy,

That saw sure looks like it's had a hard life.

What DJ says is correct about a support bar perpendicular to the bar about half way down the mill. You can eventually gets used to doing without it but that bar will take all the guess work out of starting cuts evenly.

The bar needs to be flush with the bottom of the main horizontal bars, and if you could arrange it, having that central bar adjustable (see red arrow in photo) so that it centres on the log is useful in balancing the mill.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=47832&stc=1&d=1181303094
Cheers

DJ’s Timber
8th June 2007, 11:47 PM
On having another look at the mill, it looks look there is a bar running between the rails where the centre handle is, is this adjustable so that it can sit on the log?

martrix
9th June 2007, 12:05 AM
I might be wrong, but isn't Weisy talking about aligning the saw at the start of the cut? He wants more support at the beginning of the cut, meaning more length on the front of the mill?

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=47834&stc=1&d=1181307853


Looks like you got home safely Bobl without the mind numbing conversation of the Weagles in your ear?:D

weisyboy
9th June 2007, 07:40 PM
you got it matrix i was thinking of putting the piece right threw and about 4" farther out the front.

martrix
9th June 2007, 09:15 PM
yeah, I was thinking you could just screw a board onto the mill to give you some extra length at the front. The only disadvantage of that is that you wont be able to see the bar anymore.

Maybe someone else has a bright idea to give you more length at the front without obscuring the bar?

BobL
9th June 2007, 10:26 PM
Looks like you got home safely Bobl without the mind numbing conversation of the Weagles in your ear?:D

Cheers Martrix, No Eagles, just the Richmond boys, One of them had some er . . .. "interesting pictures" on their laptops.

weisyboy
10th June 2007, 09:37 AM
maby i could use perspex

the only problem with screwing something to the underside of the jig is that it would put the depth markings out.

DJ’s Timber
10th June 2007, 09:57 AM
Could you replace the top piece with a bigger bit and attach a bit of tubing the some thickness as the rails to it. That way you don't affect the height settings. Even run a longer one from on top to stiffen the whole lot up.

BobR
10th June 2007, 10:39 AM
Weisbyboy, I am at a loss to understand the problem. I can understand what you are describing, but it does not relate to my experience. For the second cut you just rest the front bar on the flat surface left by the previous cut. If you are concerned about having the chain point either slightly up or down at the start of the cut, the centre cross piece at the end of the perspect, if resting on the flat surface, rectifies this problem. It is just a matter of starting the cut. It will be level and parallel to the previous cut. Maybe a photo of you starting the cut may help.

weisyboy
10th June 2007, 04:25 PM
yes bob my problem is that it is hard to keep the bar level at the start of the cut as there is nothing supporting the rear guide rail.:C
but maybe i joust need to have another go at it will try again on Tuesday when i get back home.:U

BobL
10th June 2007, 05:04 PM
yes bob my problem is that it is hard to keep the bar level at the start of the cut as there is nothing supporting the rear guide rail.:C
but maybe i joust need to have another go at it will try again on Tuesday when i get back home.:U


I see your perceived problem. I assume you perform the first cut with a set of rails or a straight board or something level - lets call it "x" - it's the green thing in my picture. "x" can be arranged to overhang the front of the log by sufficient so both CS mill rails are supported in the right position and you just slide it into the log.

The second and subsequent cuts can be done without "x" but if "x" is thin enough you can use "x" for every cut since it smooths out the defects in the previous . Some people always use "x" all the time.

Here are some good shots showing some nice rails.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=36470


Cheers

BobR
10th June 2007, 05:53 PM
BobL, I have been following that thread. Have you seen similar material in Aus. Beats the hell out of starting the cut with 4x2s.

weisyboy
10th June 2007, 05:59 PM
thats what i did but i used my 2x4 s instead of those uni-struts or whatever their called any one know where i can get some

weisyboy
10th June 2007, 06:29 PM
Good one Weisy,



http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=47832&stc=1&d=1181303094
Cheers


that bar hasnt been used much

DJ’s Timber
10th June 2007, 08:02 PM
Here you go Weisy, get in contact with the distributor (http://www.unistrut.com.au/unistrutproducts/metal_framing_systems) for someone local to you. Be warned though it's not cheap stuff

BobL
10th June 2007, 10:07 PM
An alternative I have been exploring is something called door track available at steel dealers. It comes in various grades from 1 - 1.6mm thick and costs a bit less than unistrut (the 1mm $12/m) but it was still not what you would call cheap. I have seen it on special for a lot less - DANG - I should have bought it then. As one would nominally need 2 lengths of say 3 or 4 metres which works out for $70 -$100. At that point I personally would be looking around for second hand stuff or even a second hand Al ladder.

A cheaper alternative for short logs is something like slotted angle which you can pick up 2m lengths for about $10.

Fortunately for me I have just "picked up" a dozen old steel bookshelf frames made of 19mm SHS. The frames are welded up up in the shape of a ladder, a hacksaw and a couple of hours with a welder should create something interesting.

RE: Bar not used much.
Dead right - it hasn't been used at all! I'm still finishing the mill. Everytime I talk to BIL we come up with a new mod! Right now I'm rebuilding the cams to make them a bit stronger and adding 2 new cams to the adjustment capability. As I like building tools I don't mind doing this but it frustrates a few people I know who want to "go mill logs"!

Cheers

DJ’s Timber
10th June 2007, 10:23 PM
Another option is that you can buy some off me :U, but freight might be a prob. Would have to check but I think I've got about 5-10 6mt lengths sitting at the farm which came with some other stuff that we bought from an auction so basically has cost me nothing.

weisyboy
11th June 2007, 09:18 AM
Another option is that you can buy some off me :U, but freight might be a prob. Would have to check but I think I've got about 5-10 6mt lengths sitting at the farm which came with some other stuff that we bought from an auction so basically has cost me nothing.

that would be great as long as i can get it here cheaper than buying it new will have to check it out.

weisyboy
11th June 2007, 08:58 PM
i do have a 20 ft aloy ladder but it is about 13" wide and dosenot sit level on the log as the rungs touch the log and not the uptights

BobL
11th June 2007, 09:48 PM
i do have a 20 ft aloy ladder but it is about 13" wide and dosenot sit level on the log as the rungs touch the log and not the uptights

Get 2 bits of 2 x 4 or 1 x 4 or 3 x 2 and tek screw them horizontally onto the top of the ends of the log so the ladder can sit level on these. Then Mill away!

Cheers

weisyboy
12th June 2007, 03:35 PM
thanks will give it a go with the ladder

la Huerta
13th June 2007, 08:06 PM
where do you get this mill thingy from, i have a mate in central coast that has a fallen gum and i was thinking of slicing into planks...

BobL
13th June 2007, 09:13 PM
where do you get this mill thingy from, i have a mate in central coast that has a fallen gum and i was thinking of slicing into planks...

If you're a hard core, ya makes ya own! :oo: And ya buy an old CS and spends loads of money fixing it, :( . . . . Are we having fun yet, . . . . . you bet :D

weisyboy
14th June 2007, 06:31 PM
try your local mower shop or garden centre. and remember to ask them about a chainsaw mill not a chainsaw thingy.