Slides for workbench tray

[Unit_01]

G'day all, just bought some slides for my workbench and wanna know if they'll do the trick for me tray. I got the slides from here: http://www.howardsilvers.com.au/catalogue.cgi?rm=products&subcategory_id=31

They are 450mm long which is the exact width of me tray and can carry a load of 25kg. i will probably tack them onto the frame and then just weld it on completely. The tray wont be that heavy so i think these slides should do but i aint too sure :(

SO if u guys could tell me if these slides will work with my tray it would be appreciated.

[DJ’s Timber]

Really can't say for sure without knowing all the details but would say they are up for it, as long as you don't over load them.

I wouldn't weld them on either, heat from welding could effect them and also if you wear them out they will be easier to replace if they're screwed on.

[munruben]

SO if u guys could tell me if these slides will work with my tray it would be appreciated.


Cant see why they wont do the job, I used similar ones to those on a filing cabinet I made and they have stood the test of time for about 7 years.

[Grahame Collins]

Unit,
Success may be based upon some variables.

It would depend on the material thickness of the tray.

I would have a practice on tacking similar thicknesses of material together,first.
- that is similar to slider thickness and the draw thickness first.

When you are practiced enough to do the job, make sure you remove the powder coating/ paint on the sliders especially if you will be using mig to weld. To do other wise is to risk porosity in your tack weld.

Grahame

[Barry_White]

They are the type they use on kitchen cupboard drawers. I have a set on a tray under a desk that takes the keyboard. I have a piece of 16mm melamine as the tray.

You will lose about 100mm of your tray width with the cantilever.

Like DJS says I would be using screws rather than welding.

[Unit_01]

thanks for the help people, i guess they should do the job. i was gonna weld it because the tray in only made out of 1.6mm-2.0mm sheet metal, so it be a bit hard to srew them on. if i lower the amps on the mog, would it be easier to eld it then? first i will tack though?
cheers

[Al B]

thanks for the help people, i guess they should do the job. i was gonna weld it because the tray in only made out of 1.6mm-2.0mm sheet metal, so it be a bit hard to srew them on. if i lower the amps on the mog, would it be easier to eld it then? first i will tack though?
cheers

Unit
I would use pop rivets.

As DJ said if you wear the drawer runners out they will be heaps easier to replace.

[Barry_White]

thanks for the help people, i guess they should do the job. i was gonna weld it because the tray in only made out of 1.6mm-2.0mm sheet metal, so it be a bit hard to srew them on. if i lower the amps on the mog, would it be easier to eld it then? first i will tack though?
cheers

Rather than pop rivets I would use 3/16" gutter bolts x 1/2" long with a spring washer under them to fix the tray.

[Unit_01]

cheers for the help people, now gotta get some ideas for me workbench, Me workbench is nearly done but i needa make some racks to hold screwdrivers and things on the back of the bench, like where a pegboard usually goes. Anyone got any ideas of what types of racks i should make and maybe some pics of what it looks like, any advice would be great
cheers Unit_01

[GCP310]

i would use these, and bolted rather than pop rivited/welded

http://www.engnetglobal.com/images/companies/S/SUN021_1926.gif

we use them for files drawers, so they can take a fair bit of weight.

G

[Unit_01]

i would use these, and bolted rather than pop rivited/welded

http://www.engnetglobal.com/images/companies/S/SUN021_1926.gif

we use them for files drawers, so they can take a fair bit of weight.

G

thanks for the reply G, yeah they look pretty neat mate, just where can i pick one of those up and what cost is the product?