about S&P grinders

[soundman]

I'm about (well some time soon) to have a go at my first salt & pepper grinders.

recently timbecon sent out a fact sheet thing about making the things.

They seem to support the use of a stedy when boring and such.
Now I can see that that would be a good idea.

But depending on how game you are and how well your chuck holds it might not be necessary.
I gather from some of the comical stories that there are those of you that don't use a steady.

what are the thaughts on s&p grinders and various issues

cheers

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I've never used a steady for S&P mills, nor have I ever used one for goblets.

Solely because, until recently, I didn't have one. Now that I have built one, I will be using it for the longer items. I'd much rather have a finished piece than yet another "funny" story highlighting my incompetence. :rolleyes:

'Sides, it also means that I can turn much longer pieces and that's where the oohs and aahs (and on-flowing pennies :wink:) really come from.

[Jim Carroll]

Depend on if you are drilling it in the round or if it is still square.

I drill while still in the square with a jig that sits of the bed of the lathe to hold and support the peice.

If in the round pre drill on your pedestal drill then finish on the lathe no steady required, in saying that for the 17" or longer ones a steady may help.

As skew says I have not needed or used a steady as yet for S&P mills.

[soundman]

I supose it would also depen on how good a grip you can get on the blank with your chuck.

It occurs to me that a large cone centre would be a handy thing.

cheers

[WillyInBris]

Hi Soundman,

I have been using a steady was going to make one but one of the guys in my class had a one and had only used it once, I offered him $25 for it and now I have it.

Its the one that matches the MC1100 or 900 from Carbatec but I think they are cheaper at Hare & Forbes I think?

Would love some pics of your setup Jim if you have a chance :2tsup:

[rsser]

I've only done up to about 12" long and not needed a steady. I like Shark jaws to hold the piece for drilling, and turn a mandrel for the bottom once it's been drilled and opened out - cheap and easy.

[soundman]

I have the nova equavalent of the shark jaws:D nasty very nasty.... they don't let go in a hurry.
cheers

[cedar n silky]

I have the nova equavalent of the shark jaws:D nasty very nasty.... they don't let go in a hurry.
cheers

Hi soundman. I am no expert,(having only made one!:B ) but I used shark jaws after I turned my cylinder between centres.I then bored the half inch hole (and the bigger hole for the mechanism first of course) nearly all the way throught the base part. I then turned it around and gripped the other end with the shark jaws, brought up the tailstock to the original centre hole from when I turned the cylinder), and turned the shape (top included.) I than parted of the top , leaving a 25 mm spigot (which conveniently fits into the top of the base part). While the base is still held in the shark jaws, I bored the remainder of th 25 mm hole. I changed the shark jaws over to a set of 25mm pin jaws, and gripped the top by the 25mm spigot, and bored the smaller hole for the grinder shaft to protrude.
I than gripped the base inside with the 25mm shark jaws, attatched the top onto the base, brought up the tailstock (into the small hole) and sanded and finished the project before screwing in the mechanism.
Never looked like needing a stready and my cylynder was initially about 350 long. finished length was 305mm.
Iv'e seen other ways, but this seemed the easiest if you've got the different jaws.