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joe greiner
13th June 2007, 10:53 PM
My Longworth Chuck variation, part 1

First, let's offer a toast to the late Mr. Leslie Longworth for developing the basic design. Scroll chucks have been around for ages, but Longworth was the first to incorporate two sets of arcs to establish the radial positions of the buttons.

On this one, the disks are 12 inches OD. My 12-inch lathe has the spindle 6 1/8 inches above the bed, so I opted for a minimum clearance of 1/8". It can hold rims of 96 to 248 mm (OD) in compression mode, and 144 to 296 mm (ID) in expansion mode. (I love to mix measuring systems.) I chose six buttons for a better grip than four. Eight buttons would have been too crowded at the minimum diameter. And it's easier to lay out a hexagon than a square or octagon - all done with straightedge and beam compass alone, without need for perpendiculars. The back disk is 23/32" plywood; the front is 7/32".

My mounting is via the intermediate jaws of my four-jaw chuck, in expansion mode. This was driven mostly because of my lathe's motor mounting - above the bed, and projecting beyond the headstock spindle. The stock faceplate has a long enough hub, but I would have had to cut down its diameter, and my after market smaller faceplates have shorter hubs. I eschewed a glued-on disk for compression mode, because I figured it would be another opportunity for misalignment. The back disk is from an old piece of plywood - almost no internal voids.

I made a plexiglass template to guide a router bushing with a dovetail bit; the dovetail angle isn't the same as the chuck jaws, but it's better than straight sides. I set the position of the jaws so that they would be in line with the body of the chuck. (See pic 4 in part 2.) The slots aren't concentric; they match the curvature of the jaws at their designated positions. I used the centre hole of the template only to establish the outer registration points; at 360-degree rotation, they missed closure by less than half the nail diameter - close enough. I drilled an access hole in each slot near the innermost excursion of the jaws; dovetail bits don't plunge very well. Most of these pics are after construction, not WIP's; in pic 5, pretend that the arc slots and the half holes on the rim aren't there yet. (I added more half holes later.) I dribbled some CA on the jaw slots for reinforcement. The jaw slots reach the inside of the far lamination of the plywood, and the bridges between slots further maintain the location of the centre anchorage for the front disk.

I mounted the disk sandwich on the lathe to sand the outer diameter and to establish the work point circles for cutting the arc slots. Runout was as close to zero as I could hope for - no need to face the disks.

More in part 2.

Joe

joe greiner
13th June 2007, 10:59 PM
My Longworth Chuck variation, part 2

I described my router compass at
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=50372

To cut each arc slot, I maintained the sandwich by leap-frogging the connection screws, minimum of two. The screws, longer than the required grip, also attach the sandwich to a waste piece of plywood, which is then clamped to another piece; this seemed better than using a gripper sheet.

Except for pic 5 of part 1, these show the modifications I made after testing the chuck on two bowls. I added six more thumb holes to the front disk, and twelve more half holes to the back disk. With these, I can rotate the chuck with one hand while I hold the bowl with the other. I also switched to larger washers at the disks; they reduce wobbling of the bolts, and make the rotation smoother. I cut a segment out of the washer to avoid interference at the four-jaw chuck, or projection beyond the disk. The bowl now rests on the washers instead of directly on the front disk.

Tightening the wing nuts is simple for compression with a screwdriver on the bolt heads. To facilitate tightening in expansion mode (i.e. with an undercut rim hiding the buttons and bolt heads), I cut a slot at the end of the bolt. I added some retainers to capture the wing nuts on the bolts. (Remember that little misadventure, Gil?) I had intended to use a piece of tubing, but couldn't find any of the right diameter. So I did some micro-surgery on some wire nuts and forced them onto the bolts; not quite as purgatorial as it sounds. These also establish a maximum gap in the bolt grip; too much gap seems to increase wobbling.

I scraped all four faces of the disks, also for smoother operation. Quite a trick to span the arc slots; next time, I'll scrape before any cutting. I also dusted some talcum powder to lubricate the disk interface, as well as the riding surfaces for the washers. The washers are DIY from HDPE, 1/8" thick; hole diameters are exact, not oversize. The HDPE is also DIY, but that's another story.

Version 2 will be smaller to accommodate smaller bowls. I'll make the diameter shy of the motor so I can mount it closer to the headstock spindle. I expect to finish it in a week or two, and I'll take some real WIP pics.

Joe

TTIT
14th June 2007, 09:09 AM
Good one Joe :2tsup: - I like your method of grabbing it with the chuck jaws even if it looks tricky to rout. At last we now have somewhere on here to direct the inquisitive to.

OGYT
14th June 2007, 10:50 AM
Nice one, Joe!! Good idea to maximize the travel of the wingnuts. I've spun a few of them off, just opening and closing the chuck.
Well done.!

cedar n silky
14th June 2007, 10:59 AM
Thanks Joe!
Next weeks project!:2tsup:

chrisb691
14th June 2007, 01:40 PM
Nice job Joe. :2tsup: