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View Full Version : Do I HAVE to flatten veneers?







trcol2
2nd July 2007, 01:05 AM
I've done a reasonable amount of veneering and am happy with my results so far.

I've use fairly 'bland' grain patterns, with fairly flat veneer sheets as one of my 'things' is to make laminates with ply and veneers so I'm not always after highly patterned grains etc. I use PVA glue and a vacuum press.

I'm about to do a fairly big project and have been checking up on some of my methods as I don't want to stuff it up.

I can't get away from this veneer flattening stuff.

Do I HAVE to flatten the veneer if it's not all bubbly and full of tortuous grains? Or can I just use my (fairly flat) veneer and rely on the glue and vacuum press to sort it out?
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jow104
2nd July 2007, 05:43 PM
What do you call a fairly big project?

Peter36
2nd July 2007, 06:58 PM
Hi trcol2. I've got a vac bag and have not found it necessary to flatten the veneer first ,provided the veneer is only a bit wavy . I used some tas myrtle burl veneer which was pretty "bubbled " and the vac bag could not handle that . I finished up using the old clamps and cauls method to glue the burl veneer to 3mm mdf and then used the vac bag to glue these to a substrate . I saw a veneer flattening method in Popular Woodworking that I might try

Iain
2nd July 2007, 07:50 PM
I have used cross linked PVA (yellow glue) and applied to both surfaces, allowed to dry then ironed on.
Misting with a spray bottle will tame some veneers and make them more manageable.

Harry II
2nd July 2007, 08:37 PM
I have used cross linked PVA (yellow glue) and applied to both surfaces, allowed to dry then ironed on.
Misting with a spray bottle will tame some veneers and make them more manageable.

Excuse my ignorance Iain, I'm not doubting you, but do you have anything between the iron and the veneer and do you mean bone dry glue or touch dry?

trcol2
2nd July 2007, 09:15 PM
What do you call a fairly big project?


Bed head and end, a chaise lounge. All have large surface areas, around 5 or 6 m2.

Wild Dingo
3rd July 2007, 01:28 AM
Ive never used a vacumn thing... havent got one yet... so I use the old fashioned between boards with many clamps method... and havent had a single issue with any of the burl veneers Ive used

Mind you this might count as nothin since Ive not done something that big either... but Id say the old method would work even at that size if the boards an clamps are sufficient and all areas of the surface have even pressure

mmm must get a vac setup one day eh? :2tsup:

trcol2
3rd July 2007, 04:54 AM
mmm must get a vac setup one day eh? :2tsup:


They're good................make even a dodgy bloke like me look good with fancy shapes and curves and things, and THEN you really polish it up with some flash veneer...charge a fortune...

Iain
3rd July 2007, 12:19 PM
I let the glue dry and use a lint free cloth between the iron and the veneer as the iron can leave marks, big black ones if the sole is aluminium.
Works with hide glue too.

Walnutty
3rd July 2007, 01:03 PM
If you've a vacuum press, and can pull 21" Hg (.7 bar) minimum, you are in a strong starting position to make your veneer behave to your evil plan. However, if you have circle burps that are greater than say 20-30mm X 5-6mm (raised) and if you don't want to go through the low level wizards alchemy to home batch your own softener, I'd recommend a small investment in a commercial ready made offering and their recommendations for processing your veneer before you actually lam it to the substrate. Additionally, I'd also recommend a two part epoxy (Unibond 800 or equal), for the lam up and generosity of open time they will afford you.

If you wish to make your own softening elixir, you can pm me and I'll pass mine to you for your own individual veneering needs.

Cheers-

WN-
:)

jow104
3rd July 2007, 05:54 PM
Blimey, help from the white house!

trcol2
4th July 2007, 08:43 AM
Thanks everyone...