joint for log furniture

[cx3]

Hi guys,

i really like log furniture and wonder wat kind of joint they used to piece the log together sturdily.

here i attached one pic.

notice the joint flush with the adjacent parts

anybody know how they do it. i might wish to learn it.
http://logfurnitureshop.com/images/bmsofa.jpg


c

[cx3]

here is another with a closer view of the joint

http://logfurnitureshop.com/images/or-cascadcfftbl.jpg

cx3

[Dan]

Don't know for sure but it looks like the larger diameter log has a hole bored in it (round mortice?) to accept the smaller log. Notice how the pictures don't show any joints with both logs being the same diameter? Buggered if I know how to do them at home without some monster forstner bits. Maybe a fly cutter would do part of the work and finish off by hand.

Dan

[Robert WA]

The joints are often round mortice and tenon, 1/3 to 1/2 the diameter of the smaller piece. If you are not up to shaping the tenon on the end of the logs, drill both and fit a "dowel". A length of broom handle works or, for strength, steel reinforcing rod.
To get the neat joint you need to shape the terminating piece to the contour of the continuing piece. A spindle sander of the right size gives you a good start.
If you really want to give yourself a challenge, try shaping the two pieces to join with a conventional m&t in rectangular form.
Gluing green timber can be a problem. If your material is green, think about wedging the wooden dowels.

[Robert WA]

2nd Comment.
I looked at the pictures again and it seems that the smaller pieces are let into the larger pieces in some of the joints. I would guess that is for appearance and is not an actual mortice and tenon although, if the smaller piece is significantly smaller than the other, it may be.
To drill into the larger piece for that purpose, presuming just a shallow recess, you can often get a lot done with a big spade bit. Just remember to have everything firmly clamped. It is easy to find yourself with a propeller on the end of your drill.
A bigger hole than you can safely cut with a spade bit can be started with a hole saw and cleaned out with small bits or a chisel.
BTW. If you are into rustic/country style, grab every draw knife you see at junk shops or garage sales. They are a great tool for shaping natural timber, particularly green timber.

[cx3]

Thanks!

so if i want to fit the two logs exactly without any gap b/w the joint, i might need to shape the end to fit the curve of the other bigger diameter log.

can i made a round shallow recess to fit the smaller log (in this case i need not to shape the end) then bore two holes on both to accept a dowel.

Robert

oh yes, you mention about the reinforcing metal rod. Any rod will do? or must it be some kind of special fitting?

[cx3]

forgotten to mention...

recently a lightning storm hit my place and a couple of tree have been uprooted.

I managed to cut off some logs and now i wonder if i can try working with them into some log furniture.


here is my problem..

1) do i need to season them....? i have no kiln so natural air drying is the next best option.

2) How to season it? do i have to strip the bark? or leave it?

or....

3) Can i work with green timber?

sorry... so many questions but i believe many out there can tell me how to proceed from here. :p


C
:confused:

[Dan]

can i made a round shallow recess to fit the smaller log (in this case i need not to shape the end) then bore two holes on both to accept a dowel.

Yep, thats what I was suggesting. From the photos the legs look to be about 150-200mm and the rails 80-100mm? Just say you want to join a 80mm rail to a 150mm leg then with a fly cutter you could make a 80mm hole in the leg (the waste would have to be chiselled out and in goes the rail. If the rail is not quite round then the fly cutter could also be used here to make it perfectly round, which would also leave the end of the rail with a perfectly centered pilot for the dowel hole (if using dowels). Fly cutters are handy because they are adjustable out to about 150mm, but they should only be used in drill presses.

Fly cutter

[cx3]

Thanks Dan!

That's really helpful :)

Dun hav drill press and fly cutter tho...
Guess i ve to save up a little more for some toys like these

[Robert WA]

Saw a neat trick for reducing and rounding the end of a piece of timber.
A block on a router table with a sharp point protruding from it .
Ram the timber end onto the point, everything set up so that you can revolve the timber by hand from the safe end.
Move the timber and block to a position where the timber will make contact with a straight router bit raised throgh the table.
Clamp the block firmly to the table.
Run the router bit when raised just enough to make slight ontact with the timber.
Revolve the timber.
Raise router bit.
Revolve timber.
.
.
.
.
.
Eventually you have a circular tenon, a stubby one, centred on the pointy thing and, provided you just revolved and didn't wobble the timber, at 90 degrees to the end face of the timber.

Mind you, I saw it done. I didn't do it. I can imagine that it takes some practice to get it just right.

[Dan]

I wonder if a wood lathe could almost.........................Nah, forget I mentioned it, silly idea.:D

If you want to avoid the joints loosening over time then the timber really has to be dried/seasoned first. It might be possible to make a start and sort out which log goes where, cut them a bit oversize then let them season. I'm not sure, but I think the ends will dry out first anyway so it might not take that long.

[Driver]

Robert

That sounds bloody dangerous . . . !

What would happen if the work piece came off the spike while in contact with the router bit?

Col

[cx3]

ya... the tenon part is really tricky... :cool:
if i use a circular saw to cut and saw of the outer ring...
hmm... reckon i might not get a deep tenon end with this.
wooshhhh.... let's see how to get around this...

now about the seasoning... i think i will go ahead and season them since i have a windy shed outside my house. same ques again ... should i de-bark it? but that would make it vulnerable to insect attack rite...?


cx3:confused:

[re do 4 u]

i think the hole-saw sounds the safest!! the fly cutter would work ok on flat timber, but on round logs??? it would chatter and shake the bejesus out of the log. how would you clamp it securely?

the hole saw would give a much cleaner cut, and could be done with a hand-held drill with the log in the vice. the waste would be easy to chisel out.

the logs in the 'photo's look as if they have been turned round. maybe left-over from veneer peeling??

happy lumberjackin'

[derekcohen]

The tool you want to use is the Veritas Power Tenon Cutter.

Pic below.

Regards from Perth

Derek