Do You Push A CSM OR Pull it?

[echnidna]

Do You Push A CSM OR Pull it?

I don't see how you could get kickback on a csm
but I'd rather be pulling one if I got a kickback

[Cliff Rogers]

Mixture.... some are pushed & some a pulled, depends on the type you have.

[Grunt]

I'm a pusher, not a puller. The instructions (oddly, I read them) on the Makita said to do it that was so I do.

[DJ’s Timber]

Do You Push A CSM OR Pull it?

I don't see how you could get kickback on a csm
but I'd rather be pulling one if I got a kickback

Just to clarify here, are talking about a Chainsaw mill here seeing that you're in the Small Timber Milling section. If so push

[silentC]

CSM = Chain saw mill?

[Cliff Rogers]

Some chain saw mills are pull by manual or winch.
The one I have is a push mill.

[outback]

I'm a pusher, if I ever get around to putting a lil' whing on I'll change to a puller. :B

[BobL]

If I put the log on the right slope and the chain is sharp I do neither - the CSM more or less falls through on its own. See this (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showpost.php?p=569677&postcount=36) post.

Kick back happens when the the chain in the top quadrant of the bar/chain tip comes into contact with something causing the CS to flick backwards on itself. In most chainsaw mills (but espcially the bill this part is not able to touch anything so kickback is very very unlikely AND if you are using a central push/hold handle with a straight arm the degree of leverage over a conventional saw is inherently safer.

Whatever the case its best to treat chainsaws like the relationship between dogs and babies - ie not leave anything to chance.

[weisyboy]

i enjoy a good pull:U

i have an alaskan mill and find it musch easyer to pull than push it.
normaly no pushing is needed but a few weeks back i cut up a 28" spottygum and when pushing i end up with a numb hand for a couple of days. but if i sat on the log infront of the mill and pulled it i could go all day without stoping for brakes and i was out of the fumes and dust to.:2tsup:

[Jedo_03]

Careful 'bout sitting on that log in front of the mill Boyo, or your pulling days could be over...:oo:
Jedo


quote=weisyboy;580104]i enjoy a good pull:U

i have an alaskan mill and find it musch easyer to pull than push it.
normaly no pushing is needed but a few weeks back i cut up a 28" spottygum and when pushing i end up with a numb hand for a couple of days. but if i sat on the log infront of the mill and pulled it i could go all day without stoping for brakes and i was out of the fumes and dust to.:2tsup:[/quote]

[weisyboy]

what the hell could happen to me sitting on the log infront of the mill.

[TTIT]

what the hell could happen to me sitting on the log infront of the mill.You could fall off the log - - it's as easy as.....:doh:

[weisyboy]

it i fall off the log i have just as mutch chance of triping over wile pushing it. and id rathe be on the ground infront of the saw with 12" of wood between me and it. than lying behind it inline with the cick back.

[whitewood]

I was at the Canberra wood show. The 'professional' there was pushing his mill.

[BobL]

it i fall off the log i have just as mutch chance of triping over wile pushing it. and id rathe be on the ground infront of the saw with 12" of wood between me and it. than lying behind it inline with the cick back.

If the top quadrant of the bar nose cannot come into contact with anything (as per CS mills with a nose grip or nose guard) then you shouldn't get any kickback. If you don't have nose grip or guard then this is another reason to get one.

When I can I like to lift the log off the ground to get the mill up to my height so I'm not bending over. Logs perched above the ground have several safety issues including rolling. While the logs are well chocked and the chances of rolling are very small - if it does, it will be easier to get out of the way if I am already on the ground.

[BobL]

I've been experimenting with ways of moving BIL around in the field and especially between my front and back yard where my shed is located (narrow side footpath access only).

One method I was thinking about was fitting removable pneumatic wheels to the ends of the rails so that I could pull/push it around as needed. When I went to Bunnys to check out what they had in the wheel department I noticed these cheap sack trolleys for $10 less than the price of a pair of pneumatic wheels - so here's my solution.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=55488&stc=1&d=1189602787

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=55489&stc=1&d=1189602787

BILs feet sit in the wooden blocks u-bolted onto the sack trolley frame. I was going to strap BIL into its cradle but it seems to work fine in standard sack trolley mode. Just pick up sack trolley and push or pull. Heaps more stable than the wheelbarrow I've been using and I can also use the sack trolley to move the slabs around too.

[Sigidi]

Running a lucas mill with slabbing attachment, if I can set it up right-very little pushing, using the carrige weight to 'push' the bar through the log.

If I don't have a choice a -heap of pushing....

[weisyboy]

as said by bob there should be no kickback at all when using a chainsaw milland kickback is actualy very rare.