erecting my shed

[rat52]

Ok. We moved house again (4th time) and I am erecting the shed myself.

Originally I intended to have the shed suppliers erect it but changed my mind and chose to erect it myself as I could get it 3 weeks earlier and save $1,000 which I used for insulation.

I chose to use the aircell insulation as it is vermin and water proof. It is only 6.5mm so I can also clad the sliding door without it bulking out and interfering with the sliding operation.

The shed is colourbond with one side on the boundry, 6m wide x 8m long . One sliding door at the front and a pa door on the other end/side.

Now the pics.
1/ The fall of the land was deceptive and from the far corner to the front is 200mm. I got about 4t of road base left over from work but had to purchase the last 3t. I didn’t want the shed floor lower than the land/garden of my rear neighbour.
2/ The shed parts delivered.
3/ 4/ Setting out and drilling the bolt holes for the roof purlins and wall girts. All the trusses and posts were pre drilled in the factory so it was just a matter of figgering out which went where lay them on the saw stools and drill. A lot easier than trying to do it up in the air.
5/ 6/ 7/ After setting out for the posts and digging the holes (category 3, 400mmx400mmx400mm deep with 100mm slab) I dug them a bit deeper to put a brick in the bottom and leveled the brick with the old reliable one man water level.
8/ 9/ erecting the steel with the help of my son. Bolted the trusses to the posts on the ground the lifted them up and braced with timber and clamps then bolted the wall girts and finally, after checking for square by measuring the diagonals, bolted on the roof purlins.
10/ Again checked it all for plumb and square the used 18 bags of premix concrete for the post bases.

The mixer I bought 24yrs ago for $20. It had a hand crank so I stuck a washing machine motor on and it’s still going.

[rat52]

The next five

[Harry72]

Looks like fun, congrats

[notenoughtoys]

The mixer I bought 24yrs ago for $20. It had a hand crank so I stuck a washing machine motor on and it’s still going.


Isn't it annoying when your trying mix a batch of concrete and the missus has a load of washing in it on spin :rofl:

sorry, couldn't help myself

[DJ’s Timber]

Looking good Rats :2tsup:

[rat52]

Isn't it always the way that there are always pieces that don't seem to fit.

All the purlins/girts are 75mm except for 1, heavier grade and 100mm running the length of the shed. common sense says it is to support the sliding door but how to fix it without creating a bump in the wall sheets.

1/2 hour of head scratching and I found some brackets and long bolts I didn't know the use of. Eureka, I have it!!! All is made clear. ( see the pic).

The sq tube packs the girt out and the steel plate clamps on the lip of the girt to hold it in place. Simple when you see it but a real head banger when there are no instructions,

[Amb]

That top girt in your last pic looks backward to me. I would have put it with the C facing out. Then there is no need for the bracket.

[Tools]

Is that girt fixed to the packer? It looks like it is just held on by the two washers, and I wouldn't think that is the way it is supposed to be.

Tools

[rat52]

AMB.
the c chanel has to face the way it does to be able to bolt the sliding door track. I will post a pic when I get to that stage

TOOLS.
there is a flat steel plate that clamps the lips of the c section. I used the washers because the holes looked to be too big for the heads of the bolts. Every bolt hole in this shed is over size which I presume makes it easier for the erectors to square the shed.:D

[Yonnee]

Gotta love the water level. Had a guy use his laser level when I was setting my 12M x 7.5M shed up and to look down the length of the purlins was like looking at a dogs hind leg. When he'd gone, I got out my piece of clear tube and the water level showed the laser out by nearly 40mm diagonally accross the shed. Reset the levels using the water, and by eye it looked spot-on.

As for the purlin above your door way, that is the way my old shed fixed the 'C' purlin on my last shed. But it wasn't for door brackets (these bolted from the underneath), it was for mounting the gutter brackets.
As for supporting the door, I'd be happier with an RHS off cut bolted directly under the 'C' purlin either side of the door opening in addition to how youv'e mounted it. That way, the weight of the door isn't just relying on the clamping of just the edges of the purlin.

Yonnee.

[rat52]

I finished all the wall sheets on the weekend wit the aircell insulation sandwiched between.

I used duck tape to hold the insulation in place while I screwed the wall sheets on.

I'm glad I have decided to line the walls with boards otherwise I would have to be wearing sunglasses every time I entered the shed.:D

Next step is the roller door to make sure the gutter will fit over the top and install the box gutter to the rear.

The box gutter hasn't been folded with a taper for a fall so I am going to use timber packers every 1m to give it a 24mm fall. This could affect the line of the roof sheets at the high point but I definitely do not want the gutter to be level :no:

ps The last pic shows the rear fence line/boundry. I had to remove the fence to fix the sheets and the barrier mesh was to keep the chooks from escaping.