how to hold a bowl with a broken foot

[starr]

I have turned the outside of a Huon pine bowl with a small spigot to hold in my Nova chuck. However, when hollowing out the inside of the bowl I had a small catch and you guessed it, most of the foot broke away.

Does anyone have ideas on how to hold it again to complete hollowing out the inside of the bowl? I can't really turn another foot on the bottom since I won't have enough wood left.

[RETIRED]

Sand it flat and glue on a waste block. Use that on a face plate or in the chuck. Centreing it may be a problem but it can be done.

[joe greiner]

And then, if the rim is true, you can turn a new, centred, spigot in the waste block as if you were finishing the bottom: Donut chuck, Cole jaws, Longworth chuck, etc. If you have none of these, mount a piece of plywood on a faceplate, and turn a groove to mate with the rim. Secure the bowl to the plywood with duct tape or filament tape.

There won't be as much parent material in the bottom as when you started, so might be best not to go as deep as originally intended.

Joe

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I made up a threaded morse taper for my tailstock, so I can mount cole-jaws or a chuck on it to hold one piece centred while t'other piece is held centred by another chuck/cole-jaws in the headstock. It's not a 100% accurate way of centering the waste block to the work piece, nothing is, but is far easier than trying to eyeball things.

Maybe not much use this time around, but it can help next time. And you will come across this problem again. We all will. :rolleyes:

[OGYT]

and Joe got it figured out.
One other thing. A couple of times, I have taken the same piece and glued it back on. It's pretty easy to match the grain and splits with broken wood.

[TTIT]

and Joe got it figured out.
One other thing. A couple of times, I have taken the same piece and glued it back on. It's pretty easy to match the grain and splits with broken wood.Took the words right out of my mouth (or keyboard at least!) - mind you it's only happened once or twice :;:B:B:B

[theyoungster]

what about one of those perspex plates with the rubbers that can move back and forth for the inside of the bowl to grab to. cant remember what they are called :doh: someone will know
theyoungster

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

what about one of those perspex plates with the rubbers that can move back and forth for the inside of the bowl to grab to. cant remember what they are called :doh: someone will know

Cole-jaws. :D

[joe greiner]

Or Vern's (TTIT) Longworth chuck:

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=29038&highlight=perspex (post #13)

Joe

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Yeah, they'd be the ones he meant.



(I was just having a stir. :wink:)

[rsser]

Re gluing ... wouldn't the glue line show up pretty clearly on Huon?

[reeves]

yeah pain in the butt hey, Robbos suggestion is probably a good idea as may others you may need to modify your bowl design, make it a little shallower to finish it off, also the longworth chuck/cole jaws will let you make a new foot.

The lesson in this one is possibly not so much in the catching and breaking but that woods with less structural strenght will break easier and i find the softer woods really need strong tenons or recesses to hold up well to hollowing etc, Huons not that strong and i have noticed it break very easily in a number of situations so maybe think about more chunkier tenon/recess scenario on the HP..shame to waste the stuff..

cheeeeers
john

[rsser]

With a chunky nat. edge bowl to remount for foot finishing I screwed an MDF disc to a faceplate, turning a shallow groove at what was going to be the highest point on the bowl and then used hot melt to fix the bowl. (Added: the nat edges were 'drooping' wings btw).

When finished a few taps with a mallet was enough to release it.

Works best with rustic styles ;-}