Modifying thicknesser cutter shaft

[Notsquare]

Hi Everyone, first post tonight. I have read with interest the forum contents. Still getting in trouble for spending too much time on this computer, but there is so much to catch up on. Based in Tassie, Dad was a joiner, picked up some knowledge, but went to uni and got an office job. A few years back I bought one of those generic 15" thicknessers which get rebadged under carba tec H&F Delta etc. I run 18% tungsten blades which have been faultless, but the time taken to reset the blades each 4 or 5 months had finally worn me down. My cutter shaft is the type with springs, rather than the more modern type which has a grub screw either end for adjusting the depth of the knives before you clamp them down. From the wealth of info on this site I found toolpartsdirect.com which has a beautiful schematic of the machine and looks like the parts are all available, or at least those for the delta dc380 model 22 680 which looks identical. However after reading the fine print, those boys in the US don't wish to sell to us over here. I was looking at possibly just buying a new shaft, since only $120 US. So now it looks like I will need to modify the original. Was wondering if anyone here could post a sketch of how the grub screw works, not sure how it actively attaches to the blade base, so that you can pull the blade in and out. Also, does anyone know if the blade height adjsutment bar can be bought from carba tec or H&F . Thanks again

[DJ’s Timber]

Why not get the Planner blade setting jig from Carbatec, part no PSJ-01. These are magnetic, adjustable and hold the blades at the correct height therefore doing away with adjusting screws or springs.

I have a set and use it to set both the thicknesser and jointer, the adjusting grub screws now live in the drawers. Once you have used it, take a note of what the settings are so that the next time you use it, you just dial the settings in and your ready to go.

[Harry72]

DJ, those magnetic jig's are only good if your blades a perfectly straight... a lot aren't! A dial guage is a better instrument for the purpose.
The jackscrew's allow you to "bend the blade straight in the cutter head".
NS, the jackscrews are threaded into the cutterhead between the outer pairs of tighting bolts under the blade. The jackscrew head pushes upwards on the blade from below, to lower the blade you tap the blade down with a "drift"(piece of hardwood or softmetal)after lowering of the jackscrew.

The idea is you set the blade height in the center of the blade and tighten each of the pressure screws, now rotate the cutterhead and insert each blade setting the middle height and tighten up the pressure screws.(number each blade 1 2 3... 4 if yer rich!)

You need to do this because as you tighten up the pressure screw's the cutter head expands and deforms! If you set a blade up without the other blades tensioned it'll be out of whack by the time you finish... its the primary cause of the wavy pattern left by thicknessers DAMHIKT

Now go back to blade #1, loosen all the pressure screws just enough that the blades can be moved just with the jackscrews and reset the height again of the center, now tighten the center Pscrew, move out to the next Pscrew adjust the height using the jackscrew then tighen the Pscrew.
Move to the other Pscrew on the opposite side of the center and repeat the height adjustment... and so on until all Pscrews are set on the blade, then move on to blade #2.

Its sounds complex but its not once you've done it, the idea is to keep the cutter head under tension/compression just like bolting down the cylinderhead of a car motor.

Or if you got about $1k or so to spare you could convert it to one of those new cutterheads that take the carbide inserts... never need to set the blade height again!

[Notsquare]

Hi,

Harry, what are you using to set the height of the knife/blade at each point along the axis of the cutter shaft? I assume you have a height jig, which this morning I have ordered from carbatec, or similar.

I have used the springs in the past, but you know what it is like, you want to move the blade a few thou, and you end up shifting it 0.5mm.

I actually have a set of those magnetic type gauges, and I find the magnet isn't strong enough to over come the friction between the blade and clamp bar, even if loose.

Would any one have time to sketch up how I could machine the grub screw features into the shaft?

By the way I spent quite a lot of time researching the spiral cutters, a local joinery shops uses them, and he reckons it is the only way to go now. But have you checked the price of the inserts!! $25 US / 10, and I reckon you would need 200 to complete the job. I also read that the performance is worth the hype especially for regular timber. If they drop in price (yeah right) then I would have a look for sure. Thanks for your advice. Much appreciated. Matt

[Harry72]

NS, I use a dial gauge held in a wooden "C" shaped block that straddles the cutter head each side of the blade.