Critique pictures. Read 1st post

[RETIRED]

This only applies to Woodturning pics.


BE WARNED !!!. Pictures posted in here are put here for CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM.

They must be the works of the person posting.

If you can't handle the heat stay out of the kitchen.

Any DEROGATORY or FRIVOLOUS post will be EDITED OR DELETED as may be the case.

[echnidna]

do the same in all the woodworking sections , they all need it.

[Pat]

Ok I'll face the masses of more learned/skilled/opinionated turners. This is my first attempt at a bowl on the lathe. Please note at the time I only had a faceplate, thus the blocky appearance. It is a Coolibah Burl bowl, now resident in the Stepsons cave:U

I intend to do more bowls as I picked up a chuck from Lumber Bunker a few weeks ago, but ran out of raw material:)

So please be brutally honest, I know there are tool marks, catches & sanding marks. Talking about sanding it's sanded to 1000, then Triple E and St#tHot wax.

[reeves]

Ok cool thanks , everyone please feel free to shoot away on this one, i can take it, bring me down boys, i deserve it...!! whip me beat me call my turning trash...hahahha...:?

oops back the box.

Its a 3 piece lidded and curved jap style box in banksia with banksia pod lid insert and knob, the finsih is organiol, white shellac, EEE wax and shellawax polish...in that order

..just to get in a coupla of quick criticisms meself...:cool:

-the top was not grain aligned when i took the pics but it does align, kind of
-the banksia pod bit is too bulbous, if it were flatter the knob wood standout more and the box wood look cooler
-the finish needs to be more even, its bit patchy but i find banksia a bit bitchy to finish,,,
-a small darker wood insert at the join might look stronger better...

ok go for it guys,,,do yr worst!!!!! be harsh...:2tsup:
any praise will be frowned upon...:((

[rsser]

Like it a lot John. (Sorry :- )

Great form, nice texture contrasts, warm tones, good finish.

Your turning has been coming along in leaps and bounds.

[Edit, but looks like you have to transfer this to a new thread, inviting flaggelation since it seems that's what you're keen on ;-} ..]

[Christopha]

Ok I'll face the masses of more learned/skilled/opinionated turners. This is my first attempt at a bowl on the lathe. Please note at the time I only had a faceplate, thus the blocky appearance. It is a Coolibah Burl bowl, now resident in the Stepsons cave:U

I intend to do more bowls as I picked up a chuck from Lumber Bunker a few weeks ago, but ran out of raw material:)

So please be brutally honest, I know there are tool marks, catches & sanding marks. Talking about sanding it's sanded to 1000, then Triple E and St#tHot wax.
Hi Pat, OK, I guess it's time to put my money where my big mouth is mate. Now please, this is me trying to be encouraging.... OK?
1; you say this is a bowl but you seem to have turned a rebate for a lid.
2; a bowl has shape and while I accept that a cylinder is a shape it really doesn't have a great aesthetic appeal.
3; As bowls go it won't be easy to tip over but this one looks like it could become permanently rooted to the table top. :wink:
4; As design goes for a turned form I was taught that regardless of the material used the form should be good. In other words if you had turned that 'bowl' from a block of playdoh the form should still have been interesting.

I suggest that you get hold of Richard Raffans book "Turned Bowl Design" as it will be of great help to you at this stage. Don't fuss about the catches and scratches at this stage because the best way to get rid of them is just plain practice, practice....

OK, 'nuff from me at this stage I hope my small suggestions help you.

[Christopha]

Ok cool thanks , everyone please feel free to shoot away on this one, i can take it, bring me down boys, i deserve it...!! whip me beat me call my turning trash...hahahha...:?

oops back the box.

Its a 3 piece lidded and curved jap style box in banksia with banksia pod lid insert and knob, the finsih is organiol, white shellac, EEE wax and shellawax polish...in that order

..just to get in a coupla of quick criticisms meself...:cool:

-the top was not grain aligned when i took the pics but it does align, kind of
-the banksia pod bit is too bulbous, if it were flatter the knob wood standout more and the box wood look cooler
-the finish needs to be more even, its bit patchy but i find banksia a bit bitchy to finish,,,
-a small darker wood insert at the join might look stronger better...

ok go for it guys,,,do yr worst!!!!! be harsh...:2tsup:
any praise will be frowned upon...:((

I would like to say that in my opinion the piece is a total design failure as a coffee mug!
Seriously, the fact that you accept that it isn't perfect, that you feel you know what is wrong shows that the best critic is yourself.... the piece isn't too bad at all really. Not "show quality" but certainly a damned long way from firewood! :2tsup:

The only thing I would suggest is that you sort out the finishing... I wouldn't use Organoil as it may "float" the Shellawax off and give you a blotchy finish in time. The Shellac step should be given a miss too, ideally, as after using your EEE to get the desired surface finish you then need to burnish the Shellawax into the surface. If you seal the suface you cannot get that Shellawax to head in...
OK, end of 'critique'. I hope I have been of some help.

[rsser]

Onya Pat!

Christopha, good to see you put up rather than shut up.

Agree that Turned Bowl Design is an essential source for turners looking to do their best with bowls. AFAIK it's out of print though.

Anyone desperate to read it, PM me.

[Christopha]

Pics of my work.... embarrassment! At the moment my lathes, my bandsaw, my buzzer, table saw and all of my timber still reside at what is now the Ex's house so my current turning efforts are zero and will probably stay that way until settlement and then the time it will take to build a new shed here at my beach house.... Photos of past work? I only got a digital relatively recently and apart from some few very small bits and pieces all of my work was sold, thats what professional turners do, they sell their work.
I am absolutely hanging out to get back to my turning as I love it and miss it.... Anyway, as soon as possible I shall be turning and then I shall post some of my efforts for your critiques! OK?

By the way, "Turned Bowl Design" may still be available through the library system.

[Pat]

Chris, son of all evil. I agree with your critique. I have NFI what I was doing. I will be developing my basic bowl turning skills in the future, as soon as I purchase some more blanks. (One day I'll get a bandsaw). The rebate was to hide a few big catches. If I was confident to turn a lid I would, maybe later:U.
I christened the piece "the Block" for good reason. Since I have got the chuck I can further my skills and will post here for further critique. I'll look for " Turned Bowl Design" in my local library & the web.

All in all it is a positive as I have found another learning resouce to obtain:U

[reeves]

I'll look for " Turned Bowl Design" in my local library & the web.

All in all it is a positive as I have found another learning resource to obtain:U

yes i am finding a few books really helps and the older 2nd hand ones are much lower cost than new ones..

I use the

http://www.abebooks.com

site a lot and havent yet found a book i cant get. It will give you a listing of shops around the world that are carrying the book or author you have searched for. Australian shops will have cheaper shipping so its good to suss one out close but if the book is available only overseas then shipping may cost more than the book..

A quick search for Richard Raffan yields over 230 results with the turned bowl design book available from a shop in Ireland for 16 bucks USD and one in the UK for 25 bucks USD.

http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/SearchResults?an=richard+raffan&bsi=30&x=62&y=11&prevpage=1

there are several copies of his other books avialable as well. I have the older turning projects and the newer big masterbook on woodturning in general, the illlustrated guide to turning, all very good value and very proffessionaly done.

have fun..

cheeeeeeers
john

[Wayne Blanch]

Pat, I'll admit that the comments made have been IMHO accurate and should be educational for you. However having said that I should point out that my first bowl was absolutely atrocious:oo: I however made the mistake of getting rid of it, I should have kept it for comparison.

I have many of my early turnings and it can be quite heartening to look at them and realise that my latest failure is still an improvement on my beginnings. The other thing I like to do is to look at things I have stuffed up in the past and think of ways they could have been improved.

It seems to me that turning is one of those things that on an individual level continues to and should always be progressing and developing both in style and technique. (This I think is probably true for turning as a craft/art/profession generally)


[quote=rsser;596488]Like it a lot John. (Sorry :- )

Great form, nice texture contrasts, warm tones, good finish.

What he said :aro-u:

Having said all that I do agree with , if you put a pic on the forum expect criticism but take it in the way it is meant, constructively.

[Pat]

John, thanks for the links, I was just about to get the book thru Amazon for a lot more but will troll thru Abe and get it chaeper.

Wayne, thanks for your kind words. I haven't been turning long as my MBGitW's best friend had an elcheapo lathe and "loaned" it to me. The Block is the base line and I can only improve from here:U

(PS I have met Chris at the WW shows and he is not the roughnut he portrays himself as, no apologies to Chris:U)

[Cruzi]

yes i am finding a few books really helps and the older 2nd hand ones are much lower cost than new ones..

I use the

http://www.abebooks.com (http://www.abebooks.com/)



Addall (http://used.addall.com/Used/) is the best book resource on the web, it search abebooks, amazon , alibris, biblio etc for you.

http://used.addall.com/SuperRare/RefineRare.fcgi?id=070929065127808400 (http://used.addall.com/SuperRare/RefineRare.fcgi?id=070929065127808400)

[Grumpy John]

I suggest that you get hold of Richard Raffans book "Turned Bowl Design" as it will be of great help to you at this stage.

G'day Pat
I found a copy of Raffans "Turned Bowl Design" on EBay, I also save pictures of any bowls I like on my computer then print them out. It's amazing how much inspiration you can get from other forum members.
Also check out this site... http://www.thedanielcollection.com/.

Cheers
GJ

[Harry72]

Ok I'll brave some crit.

Im a very green newbie, only had my lathe since the Adelaide WWWshow(bout 2mths)see my "me too" thread, these two pieces are my 2nd and 3rd that have been finished although I have rough turned about 30 sopping wet silky oak bowl blanks for future use.

1. A bowl made from some fire wood its Acacia salisina aka Broughton Willow. Size is about 150mm in dia 40mm tall.

[Harry72]

2. A lidded box(is that correct?), made from a fence post, I would'nt have a clue what wood it is?
When I made it I didnt start far enough down the post, as you can see there are many cracks and defects from the end splits!
Im also having trouble with massive tearout in this wood... its got me buggered I tried and tried but no good:((
Also found out why you dont use wax with nail holes... and I forgot to finish the inside of the lid(twas 4am in the morn...)
When hollowing it I used a 1/2" bradpoint bit to guage the depth but then thought... I know I'll use a 2" saw tooth forsner, which you can quite clearly see!
I couldnt get my tools in far enough with the tool post in there, must invest in some sort of hollowing kit(any recommendations?)
Size is approx 90mm dia and 150mm tall.

Both pieces are finished to 1500 then EEE'd shellawaxed then hit with trad wax.

[Christopha]

I don't want to become the woodturning forum resident critic and I look forward to others having a go here, especially if they wish to critique my critique!

Having said that....
Harry, while you might only be a rank newchum you are certainly having a good go!
IMHO the form of any turning should flow, whether it be a bowl or a table leg. Your first bowl there has an abrupt change of shape 2/3 of the way down the side which does it no favours. The base of the bowl, while maybe quite stable on the table, is too big and the bowl just seems to sort of squat there like a blob. I like a foot on a bowl myself that while it can be still quite large lifts the bowl so that the form sort of seems to flow into the table if you get what I'm trying to describe. Also, as a rough guide, try making the "foot" of the bowl about 1/3 of the diameter. This is usually a good place to start.
I am not going to say anything about your lidded box as you seem to have said it for yourself mate!

I don't know whether this applies to you or not Harry but I know one of the blues I made in my early days was to try to maximise the amount of timber I had left when I finished a turning, some sort of economy I s'pose, but really if you are going to e.g. turn a bowl then forget how much the blank cost, forget how much you are going to "waste" in shavings, just find the best form that you can and make it appear!
As for forms, don't just look at other turners and their works, look at pottery, look at glass, look at every bloody vessel you see and think about whether you can use that form or even just part of it in your work. After a while you will become quite obsessive about finding shapes, forms, curves etc etc

OK, back into my box now...

[dai sensei]

Not sure if this is going to work, too many pictures/posters. I do not consider myself anywhere near an expert, but I will add comments

Pat - What is happening with the inside, you seem to have various steps, not sure if they are deliberate or inexperience. Is it a pot pourri rather than a bowl?

Skew - I also sometimes use organoil to bring out grain/colour, but as Christopha has mentioned, it does tend to bleed through and I usually have to refinish a few months later. Not sure if I agree with Christopha on not using a shellac first, I often do on open grained timbers like Banksia, I find it binds the grain together giving a better substrate for the final finishing.

I do like your shape and concept though. You've got a nice sharp edge on the finial, not easy with Banksia, for me anyway :rolleyes:

Harry - I tend to agree with Cristopha. Changes in the sides should either be very sharp, or be more a continual curve. Personally I would have the entire side one continuous curve, but that is personal taste also.

As for the tear out, high speed and fine cuts with sharp tools. Alternatively lots more sanding. To hide problems with turn marks at the base on the inside, you can also cheat and glue a bit of felt at the bottom.

[Baz]

So please be brutally honest, I know there are tool marks, catches & sanding marks. Talking about sanding it's sanded to 1000, then Triple E and St#tHot wax.

Pat, I see that you are using wax on burl timber, if there are any cracks,voids or bark inclusions the wax will accumulate in there and after a while it will turn white and not look very attractive. You can try and blow it out with compressed air and or pick it out. I preffer an oil finish on burl bowls.

Cheers
Barry

[Pat]

Neil, rank inexperience/experimentation:)

Barry, I've noticed that, so when I can recue it from the cave of doom, I'll pick out the wax. I'll try some DO on the next one.

[Christopha]

Burl bowls!! Bloody things... I usually finish my burl bowls with spray lacquer and then try to "soften" the finish a little with 0000, a fine white Scotch Brite or even a special pair of velour trousers that my son wore when he was about 3 (he turned 23 last friday!). Baz is dead right about wax not being the finish of choice here. Shellac/French polish from our esteemed U and Beaut is also a good one to use here. I tend to avoid oils as A: they darken the timber B: they may need to be reapplied periodically.
One point I would like to make when turning burls. The form is still all important. The most spectacular burl will still look daggy and wasted if the form lets it down.

[Christopha]

As for the tear out, high speed and fine cuts with sharp tools. Alternatively lots more sanding. To hide problems with turn marks at the base on the inside, you can also cheat and glue a bit of felt at the bottom.
I agree with the speed as long as it is safe, sharp tools are a given but oh no! Not bloody felt, I hate the stuff with a passion! If I see felt on a piece then its' value in my eyes dives to zero as it tells me that there is probably something nasty hidden there and the turner doesn't care..

[reeves]

Seriously, the fact that you accept that it isn't perfect, that you feel you know what is wrong shows that the best critic is yourself.... the piece isn't too bad at all really. Not "show quality" but certainly a damned long way from firewood! :2tsup:

thanks Chris and thanks the others who responded, Ern, Dia Sensi who called d me skew?. I have redone it and flatted out the banksia insert humpy bit, its better



The only thing I would suggest is that you sort out the finishing... I wouldn't use Organoil as it may "float" the Shellawax off and give you a blotchy finish in time. The Shellac step should be given a miss too, ideally, as after using your EEE to get the desired surface finish you then need to burnish the Shellawax into the surface. If you seal the suface you cannot get that Shellawax to head in...
OK, end of 'critique'. I hope I have been of some help.

yes u have thanks, i have redone the finish in thin coats of just EEE and shellawx glow, its better.

I was really just experiementing with the different finishes seeing what combination gave what results on different woods, i didnt expect them all to do well. Lke sensi i was using the oil to darken things and the shellac to provide a harder base coat on some tricky woods, Banksia is a bit fluppity to finish and i am concerned about getting a good long lasting finish and haveing a finish that suits the project usage of the item...i have found some to 'go away' after a while..

what would you say are good lon lasting finsihing techniques ?

Chris, why dont you let us know some of yr expereinces as a pro turner, how its evolved, what u have learnt about finishes and/or specific turned items over the years...

I havent committed to trying to a pro turner yet, i have been enjoying the product line i currenlty sell, drop spindles, and have been experimenting with a few pieces i wth a view to offering other products, just developing prototyps, techniques, laerning what i can do and how long it takes, collecting and learning more about specific timbers.

The whole 'how to sell' thing is something i have been looking at more. My current shop is online, http://spindlemaker.etsy.com and its been good getting consistent sales and feedback from customers..am thinking of broadening out into other turned items but its gotta be a sensible thing with a plan before i put much stake in it...

Dai Sensei, to get the sharp bit on the finial/lid knob i used a thin hamlet parting tool at around 45 degree angle to the work after making a small dome in the banksia pod..works fine..you can increase the sharpness of gradient of the edge by increasing the angle you hold the tool at..i know its poossible not a 'safe technique angle the chisel far from 90 degrees but i had no problems with it at all..

we'll see how it goes and thanks for the feedback mate..

hope all is well in Beachport and u get yr tools back soon, sure is a great part of the world down there..

heres pic of the modified and refinished banksia box..

cheeeeeers
john

[reeves]

Ok heres another one, i think this thread is great and am enjoying the postees and critical responses of everyone..

This one is a small myrtle burl box with huon pine lid and ebonsised budgeroo finial. Its about 15 cm wide by 7 cm deep at the finial..Finished in organiol, EEE wax and shellawax, thin coates buffed high speed at 3000 rpm.

I think its worked out pretty well, the HP is a bit bright for total color matching but should darken a bit after a few weeks. The myrtle burl is very patcy in color, from brown tones to patches of pink/light purple.

The lid join is a touch uneven on the burnt edge and i dont think the bowl is as hollewed as it could have been,a bit chunky. The finial was intentionally simple and seems to fit well and looks fine,a touch bulbous perhaps but maybe thats just me...;-), Its useful for opening the box.

Critique away guys..

[Harry72]

Cool thanks guys, so gradual curves or sharp are the preferred... not half'n'half:)
And freshly sharpened tools + highspeed for tear out, which shape tool is the best for no tear out a skew or scraper?(or am I missing the point?)

Chris, the bowl did have a foot, I thought I'd have a go at sneaky feet... yep I killed it:(

I think F&E has made a valid point, perhaps another sub area here for crit threads? Could we have it only clickable in here instead of the main forum list?

[rsser]

John, lovely timbers, colour contrasts and finishes.

Maybe go for an acorn shape in the main body and scale down the lid and finial. (Sketching out beforehand is worth every wasted moment you do it.).

Re finishes (Christopha), a quality DO doesn't need more than 3 coats usually, is ideal for burls, and the Rustins eg. won't raise the grain the way Organoil hard burnishing oil does. (Organoil DO is new to the market and I haven't given it the time to misbehave yet).

Yes, oil finishes darken the timber and with light coloured stock this can be undesirable. But with any contrast in the grain it can increase it usefully and on some timbers it performs like magic (eg. blackwood).

Wax on burls as noted is troublesome, unless you shell out big bikkies for a rotary bristle brush, or want to spend some time with a hard toothbrush.

[Wayne Blanch]

I think that this thread is great and will allow me, when I next get the camera out, to access the stored wisdom of the forum in order to continue to learn.

I am a little reluctant to make too many comments regarding peoples work when I am so inexperienced myself. Especially when people who consistently produce work that I would struggle to match myself. (Like yours Reeves) put their work up for comment.

But what the hell, heres my two bobs worth!:D

Great box Reeves, :2tsup:

The first thing to say is that my comments are only observations regarding my personal taste and as tastes vary so greatly the comments are probably worthless anyway.

Generally I like the overall shape and the choice of HP and the myrtle, as you say the HP will probably darken and become more rich in colour as time passes. However I wonder if there are too many stark colour changes with the ebonsised finial??

As you say the finial may be a little thick however it is certainly functional.

Cheers
Wayne

[DJ’s Timber]

This is a from a Blackwood blank from Tassie that a mate gave me and I didn't want to waste it and had it sitting on the shelves for a couple of years before I turned it.

I originally turned up some prototypes from pine before I committed to turning this one to get a sense of what the shape would be like.

Overall I am pretty happy with the way it turned out, looking back on it now (turned this about 4 or 5yrs ago) I could have been a bit more fussy on sanding the edges, keeping them square rather then rounding them over.

I think from memory I finished it with EEE, 3 or 4 coats of Rustins DO and I think I use Arborwax Burnishing Wax

Don't hold back, I will take it on the chin :2tsup:

[Christopha]

Reeves, once again the critique needed for your piece has been adequately addressed by the creator... ;)

DJ, Interesting piece in the Vic Wood style but for this piece ideally the four points would be supporting it, not the base of the bowl itself. Also you have a rim detail there that is either not photographed well or is too indistinct to be worthwhile.

Please remember that my "critique" is merely my opinion and you may make up your own mind whether it is valid or not. It is offered only in support.

[Soren]

OK, I'll be game
Have so far turned 3 pieces, the first being done at the course undertaken at the 'introduction to woodturning' from sassafras

the second being the goblet made from "tree wood" !!

the last bowl being the latest project from the elm trees cut down at Lilydale, finished with EEE and 'Glow'. The reason for the shape, was due to a massive dig-in by the bowl gouge when shaping the outside, but I wanted to retain as much of the original timber as possible.

Go for it, as I want to learn.

[reeves]

Don't hold back, I will take it on the chin :2tsup:

hey good piece DJ, very nice wood and done pretty well..

i pretty much agree with what else was said, a few things is 'perfect' deisgn terms..

1) lack of definition of the 2nd ring outside of the rim, maybe it got softened in sanding i dunno, maybe try and different chisel angle and make more of a ridge

2) the wings either need curving tot he ground as Chris said or just a small curve, about 5% leaving them to dip below the bowl height, they are kind of just hanging there a bit

3) the bowl bottom or curve is pretty flat, could be tighter....

but its a good mate peice mate, i dont find blackwood that much fun to turn, weird, a bit hard but light, can be catchy etc so ya done a good job..

cheeeeeers
john

[reeves]

John, lovely timbers, colour contrasts and finishes.

Maybe go for an acorn shape in the main body and scale down the lid and finial. (Sketching out beforehand is worth every wasted moment you do it.).



thanks good comments Ern, i hadt thought much about design on that one, my only aim with that piece was to make a small box from burl as i hadnt yet and try a finial that needed blackening (ebonising sounds a bit wanky). To honest i was surprised the burl looked ok as it was half rotten and brown. The HP was just lying in the workshop from an older lid so it kind of fell together as an exercise.

I agree with the sketching comments, unfortunaltey i am as good a sketcha as i am a dancer and while my sketches give an idea of what to make i have trouble with proportions in them so have been considering the creative woodturner software, might be useful, google sketchup is also useful. I guess some graph paper and practise would make the sketching better..

In fact the area u you have touched on is one where i have been having a bit of existential debate with myself, defined design vs inspiration form. I have been reluctant to try exactly measured and adhered to proportions cos it may 'kill' spontaneity and discovery but i feel the need for better design and more precise turning practices in order to make the work better. The few i have tried to be exact with have failed rather dismally, something always seemed to push them into improvisation a little or a lot.

My plan is to imporo (with a basic concept) a few of any one design then settle on proportions once i have proven to myself thats what need to make a good piece and have some demand (hey i want one !) or good response from people about that piece.

I think over the next few months these dual intentions may confluence a bit more and eventually meet and resolve themselves, i dont want to be a 'stiff' turner producing repros or stringent ideas but i feel the need for better design practices that still allow some flow and inspiration...and then theres the wood..

Soren, nice looking pieces mate, i cant really crit them, same as most of us learnerturners, better form, sharper lines, more definition.

Pat, you are doing pretty well for having a go at some coolibah first up, pretty hard stuff. I found when i started that using softer wood easiliy avilable woods like cypress pine, silky oak and camphor laurel was good so they are easier to turn and form shapes than the harder woods..i found slots of bits at the local tip....after about 6-12 months i moved in to harder stuff like redgum and mulga etc and its a different ball game, need different approach and chisel technique to do harder woods well...

look for a timber recycling yard, garden waste...or some blanks suppliers iwth decent costs...Dan at barking log is good..

http://stores.ebay.com.au/Barking-Log-Products

and there are a few others that are not too pricy..

have fun all and cheers for the comments..

[rsser]

Hi John,

Yes, I guess the difference is between a sketch and a tight design. I tend to the sketch end just to see what profile looks promising; aiming for rough proportions, checking the flow of curves etc. Often this will mean eg. reducing the thickness of the blank because its raw proportions just won't lend themselves to something that looks good on paper.

And yes, of course when you start turning the lump, things appear (like checks or grub holes or a nice bit of figure) that encourage or require you to vary the idea.

[dai sensei]

...Dia Sensi who called d me skew?.

:doh: Sorry John

[Christopha]

OK, I'll be game
Have so far turned 3 pieces, the first being done at the course undertaken at the 'introduction to woodturning' from sassafras

the second being the goblet made from "tree wood" !!

the last bowl being the latest project from the elm trees cut down at Lilydale, finished with EEE and 'Glow'. The reason for the shape, was due to a massive dig-in by the bowl gouge when shaping the outside, but I wanted to retain as much of the original timber as possible.

Go for it, as I want to learn.

Soren ( and others), Just a suggestion that may work for this new critique section... Perhaps.... When posting a piece that you would like critiqued then perhaps you could tell us what you think may need attention?
Also could I perhaps suggest just one article per posting?

[RETIRED]

Soren ( and others), Just a suggestion that may work for this new critique section... Perhaps.... When posting a piece that you would like critiqued then perhaps you could tell us what you think may need attention?
Also could I perhaps suggest just one article per posting?

Gotta stop this. I agree with Chris. :doh: Closest I can find to a slap.:wink:

[mobjack68]

This is my first attempt at a bowl on the lathe. Please note at the time I only had a faceplate, thus the blocky appearance.

Your first attempt is far greater than my first attempt....thank goodness evidence of my project vanished long ago!! Pat, one of the great things about turning....materials abound!! the more you do, the more you will learn about form and function. Keep at it. On to the faceplate thing, try gluing a waste block onto the bottom of your good block. Waste block needs to be as big as the faceplate diameter, maybe 1" thick and at least as hard as the material you are turning (I have cheated with softwood waste block, hardwood turning block...wait til later) The wb (waste block) is what holds the screws, which means you can turn more of your "good wood". the wb also allows tool access to the bottom of the block, you can be as creative with a "foot" and bottom as you can the rest of your piece. Happy turning!!

[JackoH]

IMHO. It's all been said (or most of it!):D
But pleeease concentrate on the "flow" of the article, also most of the pics show work that is too "heavy". Thin down the walls of your bowls, and boxes. Knobs and finials should look as if they are all a natural part of the work. The finished article should say "Hey look at me. I'm beautiful" not sit on the shelf like a big overweight blob.Pay attention to the matching of different woods. Ask yourself "Do they really go together, or are they clashing"? Concentrate on the finishing. Often more time should be spent sanding and polishing than turning.
As I said IMHO.:cool:

[reeves]

Hi John,

Yes, I guess the difference is between a sketch and a tight design. I tend to the sketch end just to see what profile looks promising; aiming for rough proportions, checking the flow of curves etc. Often this will mean eg. reducing the thickness of the blank because its raw proportions just won't lend themselves to something that looks good on paper.

yes i agree Ern, one of the reasons i like do a few protoypes is to try and suss out the deisgn to follow and have a good idea of the dimensions, then blanks can be cut to size when doing production or potentially saleable items if it goes that far...or just to improve work..

I have found myself sketching on the blank while on the lathe a fair bit, tracing potential curves, dimensions, width etc, its fun drawing on the wood and can be somewhat helpful...



And yes, of course when you start turning the lump, things appear (like checks or grub holes or a nice bit of figure) that encourage or require you to vary the idea.

yes always exciting, i was rough turning a particularly gnarly chink of bluegum a while back and a small scorpian shot out of a splitty bit...


But pleeease concentrate on the "flow" of the article, also most of the pics show work that is too "heavy". Thin down the walls of your bowls, and boxes. Knobs and finials should look as if they are all a natural part of the work. The finished article should say "Hey look at me. I'm beautiful" not sit on the shelf like a big overweight blob.Pay attention to the matching of different woods. Ask yourself "Do they really go together, or are they clashing"? Concentrate on the finishing. Often more time should be spent sanding and polishing than turning.
As I said IMHO.:cool:

all good suggestions mate, worth following but as with these kind of things the devil is in the detail..like how does a learnerturner on their first quickly get the technique to turn thin or understand flow iwthout going thorugh months or years of practice, how do you match wood without a diverse collection of dry woods at your disposal and an intimate knowledge of how the wood behaves, darkens or finsihes..how do you get finisals or knobs to flow naturally iwth the pieces when you have only tried a couples of projects iwth them..

obviously practices in the key, critique definaition and more practice, whiles entry level comments is potentialy useful, some examples of what you mean, some rundown of technique, some explanation of your own expereinces may help learners and developers do better work..

my 2 bits worth..

[JackoH]

Practice mate, practice! "There is no quick fix".

[canchippy]

OK let's jump in at the deep end:) New to forum and a Canadian so tell it like it is:) Been turning as a hobby since 2000 and this is where I'm at.
First one is a cheeseboard of apple 16" x 5" mouse is cherry, cheese is unknown
57147
Next is 11" x 5" Natural Edge Box Elder (Manitoba Maple) with bug holes. Lacquer and waxed
57148
And the last is 12" x 5" Natural Edge London Plane (American Sycamore). Outside was left with tool marks and then burnt and finished with matte lacquer. Inside was sanded and lacquered with semi gloss.
57149

[Christopha]

They look pretty good to me and from whaT I can see It would be a tad rude of me to criticise your work when it appears fine..... except to ask, are London Plane and American sycamore the same species?

[reeves]

very nice pieces mate, cant crit them at all, really enjoyed looking at the pics...maybe a touch tighter on the overall curve maybe not

i thought london plane was like lacewood or silkyoak but i could be wrong

cheeeeeers
john

[RETIRED]

very nice pieces mate, cant crit them at all, really enjoyed looking at the pics...maybe a touch tighter on the overall curve maybe not

i thought london plane was like lacewood or silkyoak but i could be wrong

cheeeeeers
johnLondon Plane in Australia is known as Lacewood.

[rsser]

Not Plane Tree? Platanus hybridus?

Welcome canchippy.

Coming from a foot man you won't be surprised if I say that no. 2 would have been lifted and looked less squat if you'd added a foot ;-}

I like no. 3 very much. The finish contrasts work well and the shape flows nicely. The base is well centred between the tips. Wall thickness however appears uneven as far as the photo will allow a good enough view. A nat edge bowl shows this problem up like dogs b*lls.

[canchippy]

Hey you guys are pushovers:) Thanks for all the positive comments.
London Plane is mentioned in my tree book as being a hybrid of Platanus Occidentalis and Platanus Orientalis whatever the hell that is:) It is listed under American Sycamore (Platanus Occidentalis) So it would appear to be in the same family. It is also known as Lacewood but I don't think that is the same as Australian Lacewood.
The trend here with bowls is moving away from feet. More and more bowls are showing up with not even a flat area for stability. The difference in wall thickness is a real problem for me with natural edges and this bowl was perfect until I tried to correct another problem by re-turning:-

[littlebuddha]

Opps mistake sorry

[mobjack68]

Coming from a foot man you won't be surprised if I say that no. 2 would have been lifted and looked less squat if you'd added a foot ;-}


What is the BEST way to turn a foot??
I have used a faceplate mounted block with a groove cut in to match the size of the lip...most times I "waste" a little on the bottom and cut into the turned piece to make a foot, cut that loose and grab a carving chisel to finish out the rest...Better suggestions??? would like to hear from the professionals
thanks

[rsser]

London Plane is mentioned in my tree book as being a hybrid of Platanus Occidentalis and Platanus Orientalis whatever the hell that is:) It is listed under American Sycamore (Platanus Occidentalis) So it would appear to be in the same family. It is also known as Lacewood but I don't think that is the same as Australian Lacewood.
The trend here with bowls is moving away from feet. More and more bowls are showing up with not even a flat area for stability. The difference in wall thickness is a real problem for me with natural edges and this bowl was perfect until I tried to correct another problem by re-turning:-

I had heard that our Plane tree was a hybrid of another plane and a sycamore FWIW.

... and trends schmends :p

[Pat]

Played with the new chuck, Carbatecs Bonham copy, today and turned up these three bowls. Jacaranda, Myrtle and Jarrah Burl. I did try to add some form to the bowls although the first two are still straight sides. The Jarrah burl has a slight bulge. Finish for the first two is Sh#thot wax, the Jarrah Burl is DO brushed on via toothbrush.

All in all, a fun arvo in the shed. I did learn on thing . . . Do not drop chucks, faceplates etc on foot:B

[littlebuddha]

London Plane sim to beach-light reddish brown straight grained, it becomes known as Lacewood once quarter sawn. LB.

[Christopha]

Played with the new chuck, Carbatecs Bonham copy, today and turned up these three bowls. Jacaranda, Myrtle and Jarrah Burl. I did try to add some form to the bowls although the first two are still straight sides. The Jarrah burl has a slight bulge. Finish for the first two is Sh#thot wax, the Jarrah Burl is DO brushed on via toothbrush.

All in all, a fun arvo in the shed. I did learn on thing . . . Do not drop chucks, faceplates etc on foot:B


Pat, Your two straight sided "bowls" I would probably call "dishes" as they are very flat, have a very hard turn from side to bottom, apparently sit straight , plonk, flat on the table and (don't get cranky! please!!!) look somewhat similar to the dishes I feed my dog from.... Your other, rounder bowl is getting to be more like it mate, it still looks pretty heavy too for its' apparent size.
I would also like to say that it is difficult to give a fair appraisal when the photographs don't show much of the profile, size etc. Perhaps somenoe could suggest some photo techniques for us?

[Pat]

Chris you are right. The first two were the first two made with the new chuck, the third (Jarrah Burl) is were I go a bit of confidence. I will be trying for more "bowl" shape bowls in the future.:)

[rsser]

Leatherwood, 180mm wide.

Finished with Feast Watson Scandinavian Oil. First use of this stuff; two coats produced a fairly high gloss.

The wood was rough turned and it dried more eccentric than I've ever seen (and with no checking). Luckily there was enough wall thickness. It's easy to turn and easy to get tear out.

(Apologies for the photo quality; too fagged to do it properly :p ..)

[mick61]

G`day nice job Ern.:2tsup:
Mick:D

[Cliff Rogers]

G'day Ern, I reckon you could do something to the foot so it wasn't so 'old fashioned'.

PS. Ya floor needs sweeping. :D

[rsser]

Thanks Mick.

Cliff, yep, that's me, old fashioned :D.

No, I did have a bit of a cove initially that got lost in the cleaning up. First run of the yew-beaut vacuum port/chuck on the Stubby and it was gently does it.

What'd you learn at Proserpine?

[Cliff Rogers]

...What'd you learn at Proserpine?
I can't remember. :D

I spotted a few more good ideas,
made some small thin bowls,
worked out a 'concept' pot with a very nice shape but sanded it too thin in the bottom,
got some very nice Burdekin Plum,
got a good work out on some difficult grain in some Sarsaparilla...
Finished one bit by continually wetting the crook spot that kept tearing out with water & the carefully shear scraping it til it could be sanded without the torn grain showing up, & finished the other bit doing the same thing with a lacquer sanding sealer that set very quickly.

I'll dig up some photos later.

[Cliff Rogers]

96mm x 26mm x 4mm

Sanded to 400 & finished in Ubeaut Trad Wax.

The timber came from our land, knocked over by Larry last year.
The end grain of the sap wood tears out badly but the side grain is beautiful.

Finished this one by continually wetting the crook grain with water & then carefully shear scraping it.
As soon as the scrapings stopped coming off as mud, I put more water on it.
Eventually it could be sanded without the torn grain showing up

Given more time & a better piece of timber (more heartwood) I would have gone a bit thinner & finished it with DO instead of wax.

Focus is a bit crook on the side shot.

[Cliff Rogers]

89mm x 34mm x 3mm

Sanded to 400 & finished in Ubeaut Trad Wax.

The timber came from the same branch as the last piece.

I finished this one by continually sealing the crook grain with a lacquer sanding sealer that set very quickly & then carefully shear scraping it.
As soon as I had cut through the sealer, I put more on it.
Eventually it could be sanded without the torn grain showing up.

Same comments about the quality of the timber, the DO & the focus.

[wheelinround]

Interesting bowl Cliff

a soup bowl for dieters :p

[Cliff Rogers]

112mm x 45mm x 4mm

Sanded to 400 & finished in Ubeaut Trad Wax.

The timber came from Charters Towers & was given to me by one of the blokes at the Prossy Turnout.

This stuff is brilliant to turn, it makes you look like a pro. :2tsup:

This piece has a couple of small cracks in it that I didn't bother trying to hide of fill & even though it is just waxed & not oiled, it will go into use at our place as a nut bowl.

I have 2 more blanks just a bit bigger that I have rough turned & sealed with wax.

When I do them, I will finish them in DO.

Sorry about the focus in the side shots. :rolleyes:

[Cliff Rogers]

100mm x 84mm Hollowed with a Vermec hollowing tool.

Sanded to 150 & not finished 'cos I went too deep & the bottom is too thin. (Not broken but you can see a glow through it when held up to the light)

The timber came from an old bloke in Townsville more than 10 years ago.
It has some nice colours, pity I buggered it up.

I posted it as a concept pot for comments on the shape.

I like the shape & I'll definitely have another go at a piece like it. :2tsup:

Focus isn't getting any better. :cool:

[wheelinround]

100mm x 84mm Hollowed with a Vermec hollowing tool.

Sanded to 150 & not finished 'cos I went too deep & the bottom is too thin. (Not broken but you can see a glow through it when held up to the light)

The timber came from an old bloke in Townsville more than 10 years ago.
It has some nice colours, pity I buggered it up.

I posted it as a concept pot for comments on the shape.

I like the shape & I'll definitely have another go at a piece like it. :2tsup:

Focus isn't getting any better. :cool:

This look is really excellent especially with that grain Cliff suits the shape

could you not make a base up for it not necessarily out of the same timber

excuse y ingnorance whats DO

[DJ’s Timber]

excuse y ingnorance whats DO

Danish Oil

[wheelinround]

Danish Oil

:doh: never

[Cliff Rogers]

...could you not make a base up for it not necessarily out of the same timber....
That has been suggested already & I have seen it done before BUT...
it is dead obvious & there is always somebody who states the dead obvious, at the top of their voice.....
"Har, har, har, har, you when right through the bottom didn't you, go on, you can't fool me!" :rolleyes:

[BernieP]

G'Day Cliff

What a magic shape for the grain orientation, consider idea stolen!

Cheers
Bernie

[wheelinround]

That has been suggested already & I have seen it done before BUT...
it is dead obvious & there is always somebody who states the dead obvious, at the top of their voice.....
"Har, har, har, har, you when right through the bottom didn't you, go on, you can't fool me!" :rolleyes:

Yes but you didn't go through it you saved it

but its your work and your trying to rescue it after all it is a spectacular piece Cliff.:2tsup:

Isn't using scrap pieces to make a segmented piece obvious and look how well many turn out.

[canchippy]

Sitting here in bloody cold Canada, crocked up after putting hand in bandsaw so I thought I need to visit for some warmth and good cheer.
Well here's a hat. I buggered up the brim when a rubber band cut through it so I ended up giving it a coat of paint except for the band and the inside. It was a pretty plain (pun) piece of wood so what the hell. It does fit me so I will wear it the next time I'm at the opera:U

[Cliff Rogers]

... I buggered up the brim when a rubber band cut through it ...
Pity, still, it does look good in black.
You'll have to try making a former to shape the brim.
How do you shape the crown, is that done on a former?
Maybe you can incorporate the two.

[canchippy]

Pity, still, it does look good in black.
You'll have to try making a former to shape the brim.
How do you shape the crown, is that done on a former?
Maybe you can incorporate the two.
Cliff, I use a former and stretch rubber bands over it to pull the brim up at the sides. The brim is turned with a downward slope on it. The crown is just turned to that shape as I part it off from the chuck tenon. I turned it outboard as my old Delta iron is only a 12" swing.

[Cliff Rogers]

...The crown is just turned to that shape as I part it off from the chuck tenon......
How do you get it oval? :?

[Twinnie]

after a long time off the lathe i had another crack at it. and came up with this. turned and finished green it's some sort of white ceder. and it's now far from round the top and base are turned from the same bit of wood. it was finished with blue food dye 85c a bottle! a permanent marker! and shellawax cream over eee and sanded to 1200 (top) and 40 (bottom). i had to be very quick with the base because the top was rapidly going out of round. but i think i pulled it off. tear me down lads!

Matt

http://fc01.deviantart.com/fs22/i/2007/316/b/f/blue_hollow_form_by_matts3d.jpghttp://fc02.deviantart.com/fs24/i/2007/316/d/a/hollow_form_2_by_matts3d.jpg

[Pat]

Matt, why should we tear you down, when it is a good effort. Yes the top is a bit off centre, but it looks in proportion to the base. Why did you only sand to 40 or was that supposed to be 400 grit? The blue food dye looks very different, but it works.

If all else fails, this is the practice piece to get yourself familiar with the concept:), thus most of my stuff are still proof of concept . . . that is the concept of me turning anything is possible:p

[Twinnie]

Why did you only sand to 40 or was that supposed to be 400 grit?

the base was kinda an after thought where as the top had over night to dry. so with both changing shape rapidly i just didn't have time to let the base dry enough to sand it any further. so i carved it and hoped no one would notice :B

Matt

[canchippy]

How do you get it oval? :?
The former is like a pair of flat jaws, hinged at one end and the hat is placed upside down in the other. The side grain has to be against the jaws and rubber bands are stretched over the hat to pull the brim down on the sides. Then a pair of clamps across the jaws and apply pressure. As the hat dries the clamps are tightened and after a couple of weeks it is oval.

[Brown Dog]

Hi all

Another bowl :rolleyes: :D

Left this one very simple to let the wood speak for itself.

Parts of the pink bit through the middle were very soft and no matter what I tried I couldnt get it to stop tearing out....utill I soaked it in CA, after a light scrape the surface was good enough for sanding

61199 61200 61201

Im quite happy with this one but I would be interested to hear what you fellas think.

cheers
BD:2tsup:

[killerbeast]

very nice good work on the form, and good result on the apprently difficult timber

[canchippy]

I like everything about this. You got the shape right and it shows off the grain almost perfectly. Nice little spalted area just to create some extra visual interest. Nice foot and the curves are really good. Way to go!

[Mrs Woodpecker]

This somewhat inexperiencd " fella " thinks you've done a great job. Thumbs up from me.
Regards, Shirley

[rsser]

This was done out of one of Calm's kind donations at the last turnfest in Melb.

Timber was greenish and cracked through in several places. Had some beaut purple streaks which didn't survive the light or DO finish. Had a lovely mint scent.

Technically it's poor. Wall thickness is uneven; nat. edge is uneven; wall is thick and had to be so as one crack ran right through the tenon.

But it's one of those lumps that survive our ham fisted efforts. Looks kinda volcanic.

[Cliff Rogers]

Bloody hell, it looks scary like it might have thrown bits at you while you were turning it. :oo:

[rsser]

Yeah Cliff, it did erupt when I was cleaning up the foot. Went to reduce the nub at the tailstock end and it broke away leaving the bowl rattling around the between friction drive and live centre.

[hughie]

horses for courses Ern,
.
There's a section of the community that loves this kinda of turning. At the other end of the spectrum its just firewood.

All in all it turned out well. A piece of character.

If you were Sir William Blobknob the world famous turner etc etc. It would sell for a couple of mortgages. :U

[Cliff Rogers]

.....Sir William Blobknob the world famous turner etc etc. ....
If I sign that on the bottom of my work, can I sell it for more? :rolleyes:

[rsser]

If you were Sir William Blobknob the world famous turner etc etc. It would sell for a couple of mortgages. :U

In one of his demo's at the WWW show down here Richard Raffan said he went through the bottom of a bowl while doing a demo in the States.

It was auctioned for $400 when he'd 'finished'.

[Harry72]

Betcha you had a few nervous moments turning it, its got a real natural sense about it. Sort of reminds me of a crustation... turn it upside down and put some sectioned legs on it and a set of claws!(like a crab)

[rsser]

There's an idea.

Look out Ken Wraight - the crabs are coming ;-}

[mick61]

G`day fellow woodies. Have a go at this one 100 year old red gum brown mallee burl center and top.hieght 255mm wall thickness about 12 mm.
Mick:D

[ss_11000]

more piccies please mick, that looks interesting:)

[Calm]

Hi an idea i have had for a while has come to fruition.

I had redgum stumps, merbeu veranda posts and some Blackwood peices.

When i purchased my jointer thicknesser last weekend it gave me the oportunity to plane sides glue and then turn.

All sides were ran over the jointer and then glued with no sanding at all. Glue used was Titebond Professional original wood glue.

I am reasonably happy although the curve on the sides probably should be the same to the top instead of the straight bit at the top.

Sanding was a nightmare and in some places i have probably not done enough. Sanded to 1500 then used Ubeat UltraShine and then Glow

The size is 3800mm x 80 mm the walls are about 5 to 6 mm thick. I was not game to go much thinner because of the glue joints. The bowl missed the bed by less than an inch so to make all stripes equal i would need to turn outboard. Main purpose was to try the glue and turn thingy/bit without getting hit in the head by unglued wood.

[Harry72]

Looks pretty good to me!

[Elbow]

good stuff David, you didn't waste any time

Allan

[Calm]

Hi posted the bowl here braced myself ready for the onslaught and response has been mild to say the least.

Come on go for it i can take it. Tomorrows sunday i could always go to church and ask for forgiveness..

[DJ’s Timber]

Missed this the first time round Dave :doh:.

Hmm, shape is good, bit more sanding needed and good clean gluelines.

Give yourself a pat on the back :2tsup:, now get back out there and do another one but with a even wall thickness all the way through and a better sanding job :q :U

[Sarge]

Nice bowl David

[Christopha]

Sorry, not meant to be nasty AT ALL, but.... form is very ordinary, a utilitarian shape I guess and you are right about the sanding. Perhaps when sanding you let each 'grit' remove all sign of of the previous one before moving on.
I have a personal dislike of laminated forms, to me they look tacky, they rarely survive splitting if dis-similar timbers are used and if the glue up isn't very good with plenty of curing time then the turning can be quite hazardous.
Don't mind me, just keep at it!

[Caveman]

G'day all.

A new form for me - not my 'standard' bowl form.
A bit of spalting had krept into the sapwood.

6" x 7" (15cm x 18cm).

Finished only with BLO so far. Intend to buff it with beeswax once dry.