PDA

View Full Version : My New Shed



Calm
8th October 2007, 09:14 PM
Yep i moved in on the 29th September and it took telstra 10 days to transfer the AAPT internet, but now i'm back on line.

Moved in and had stuff everywhere then cleaned up and took a couple of photos of the new shed.

1 Looking in from outside - note the elaborate work bench
2 The "workbench" and shelving
3&4 The lathe, grinder and air compressor.

Saturday - night after a long day of moving i finally got the shed looking like the photos.

Sunday - I thought i would get the 12mm Dynabolts and fix it to the floor - but couldnt find the chuck key to the drill to make the holes in the concrete floor.

Monday - got sick of looking so went and bought a new key. $8 - Excited to get going on the lathe again, it took about an hour to bolt it down.
The big decision of what to make so i decided on some coasters - found the bit of redgum set it up between the drive spur and the tail stock - hit the button and away we go.
Touched the outside with the roughing gouge and the wood stopped. Removed the cover and after 14 months in storage the variable speed pulley on the motor had seized on the shaft and when the adjustable pulley was moved the spring loaded motor pulley didnt move and the belt came loose. Some WD40, compressed air and that fixed so off we go again. The belt was noisy and started slipping but some soap fixed that. Off again and nearly had it roughed down and guess what the belt broke. 6.30 monday night and the shops are shut so 3 days and still no lathe work. - talk about frustrated

Tuesday - had to go to Melbourne but back in time to get the new belt and away we go in heaven with the lathe working again.

Made 4 coasters and a small bowl from a burl left over from Erns turnfest for the no 1 daughters birthday on Friday. Guess what - i was so excited i forgot to take any photos. i will ring her and ask her to email me some.

Back in the land of turning again sure feels good.

Now for the WWW show and check out the "wants" for the shed.

Ern the "Hafco" is no "STUBBY" but bolted down well and with a minimum speed of 500 RPM it will have to do until the BS, DC, Pedistal drill and workbench are purchased.

DJ’s Timber
8th October 2007, 09:39 PM
Good stuff Dave :2tsup:, love the bench grinder stand :U, nothing wrong with that elaborate table :o, as long as it does the job that's all that's needed

Burnsy
8th October 2007, 09:44 PM
Great work Dave, don't you just love it when you first move into a new shed and you have not yet filled it up with everything that you will probably never need but can't throw out?

I agree, that is a great grinder stand, best lookin one I have ever seen, what is the dark patch in the middle of the base?

BobL
8th October 2007, 10:18 PM
All that space you can fill - must be a good feeling. I have one of those green tables outside the shed that's all beat up and grey/white with UV damage. SWMBO uses it as a potting table and I use it to clean chainsaw parts - dual use - we agree its too useful to get rid of.

TTIT
8th October 2007, 11:08 PM
Too much room in there David :o Go and cut every tree in the yard down and stack the logs in there - that should fix it! :;






Enjoy the space while it lasts :U

Calm
8th October 2007, 11:53 PM
Thanks for the remarks. Yep there is a lot of room and when i throw out the wardrobes there will be more. Before i lost the shed i had collected a good "supply" of wood that all went into a woodheap. I'll have to start again.

Now photos of the presents.

1,2,3 the Gum Burl bowl. Dry burl that had a chainsaw cut halfway through that forced me to reduce the size to about 6 inches across. Sanded to 400 and finished with one coat of DO. (ran out of time for a second coat)

4,5 The coasters are from Redgum - a peice about 6 inches long cross grain. 110 mm across and about 10 mm thick. I turned the peice between centres finished bottom of first coaster - then held in chuck in expanding mode - made bottom of next coaster at other end of peice and parted off and finshed top of first coaster. repeated this process from end to end until 4 were made.

It used almost all the peice, next time i would cut off with BS and cut down on wastage, finish top and hold in Bowl jaws or similar and finish bottom off differently. (probably round off, or taper the edge where the chuck was holding.) That would leave a coaster with a recess in the bottom that looked like it was meant to be there or the other option is to hold in chuck by a tenion and then turn that off to leave both sides identical. Finished in satin spray clear polyurethane

How does everyone else do it?

Cliff Rogers
9th October 2007, 09:18 AM
Good for you Dave. :2tsup:

Skew ChiDAMN!!
9th October 2007, 07:20 PM
Mmmm... floor!

I haven't seen one of them in my shed for a looong time. :C

That gum burl bowls a nice little job, too.

rsser
9th October 2007, 08:54 PM
Re the coasters, another option would be to finish off the bottom while holding the rim with a jam chuck.

Allan at Wallan
9th October 2007, 09:53 PM
Good to see you up and running again David.

Very nice work on the lathe ... keep up the
good work!:2tsup:

Allan

______________________________________

I am not at all worried about dying
... but just hope I am not there at the time.

Cliff Rogers
10th October 2007, 12:03 AM
Umm Dave, where is the fridge???? :?

OGYT
10th October 2007, 02:44 PM
Nice stuff, David. :) Glad to see you are back in the shed. I like that wood on the Gum Burl Bowl. Don't know about that wood... does it have a lot of resin in it, like Eucalyptus?
Also... that place sure needs dirtyin' up a mite... I've heard that a clean shed is a sign of a sick mind.... :D

Calm
10th October 2007, 08:04 PM
OGYT - The burl is eucalyptus i call it white or swamp gum, The botanical name i have no idea. There is a lot of sap/resin in it. I have not used any CA or anything to stabilise it - Should i do that? How??

Yep the shed has room. That's why i started this thread (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?p=602960#post602960).

I took a couple of photos of the grinder. It was an old Strainer post that rotted off at the ground. Shaped with the chainsaw sanded with the electric hand plane and a couple of coats of polyurethane gloss to finish.

The base for a bit of balance is a Cyprus log rounded on the lathe and quartered with the chainsaw. I am pretty proud of it from a distance , it was never intended to be an "A Grade" work of art.

To help fill up the room a shopping list for the www show includes, BS, DC, Pedistal Drill and lots of little bits & peices. A plan down the track 6months to purchase a 15" or 20" thicknesser.

Harry72
10th October 2007, 08:52 PM
Classic grinder stand Dave!
Congrats on the new shed:)

rodent
11th October 2007, 05:05 PM
A floor whats that . Oh thats where you put the stand for the grinder . the drill press etc.You dont have enough tools Calm you have too much floor space .

rsser
11th October 2007, 05:30 PM
Think Dave is planning to rectify that at the WWW show!

BernieP
11th October 2007, 08:02 PM
G'Day David

Congrats on the shed, enjoy yourspending spree, make sure you buy the biggest band saw you can afford as just sold (nearly gave away) my original small one and replaced with a second hand bigger one. Nice bowl and will be copying the coaster plans as have a request for some for Christmas.

Cheers
Bernie

Calm
13th October 2007, 10:08 PM
Yep I went to Melbourne today and gave the credit card a severe beating (that's for one known as stingy as me). Yep sponsored Jim, The Great One (Neil), Hare & Forbes & Sachys Robertson.

A new 2HP 16" BS & and 2HP DC. $1,018
Another SN2 Chuck, 100mm jaws, 3 face plate rings, square drive screws, grinder bracket for sharpening, facing tool for grinder wheels, Ubeaut polish & sanding stuff, more sanding stuff. (now i need an operator for all the sanding stuff)

Was looking at the filter cartridge for the DC at an extra $189 and the 16 speed pedistal drill at $216 but chickened out when i thought about having to pay for all this. So picked up the DC & BS and off home to play.

No chisels as I couldn't find any Henry Taylor but i will follow that up this week.

Yep the biggest days shopping for myself EVER!!!!:D

Am i happy you betcha:D:U:D:U:D:U

Got home opened the box and the DC had to be assembled - disapointed but away we went about an hour later and yep it fired up. Didnt buy any hoses etc yet as i haven't decided where to put it. Hopefully outside.

Unloaded the box with the BS (bloody heavy) and it only need the table fitted and away it went. Boy was i happy grabbed a bit of wood and tried it free hand and it cut beautifully. So inside to have some dinner and a cuppa - 5pm is a long time from 8am for food.

Went back out and thought i would square up a peice to make some coasters with and when i use the fence the BS cuts away (runs out) at about 1/8" every 2". Tried moving the blade back and forward on the wheels but no difference, checked manual and guides etc but no good.

Remembered reading on here about that problem and couldn't remember.

Too lazy to do a search tonight, has anyone got any ideas of the cause. Maybe the shyte blade supplied??? HELP!!!

A couple of photos - still happy - will sort out the runout somehow.

Calm
13th October 2007, 10:36 PM
Just found this tread (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=54876)and yep that is exactly what i did. the blade doesn't come off it just runs out from the fence when cutting. Tried to adjust fence but to no avail.

rsser
13th October 2007, 11:14 PM
There's a school of thought David that supports having the board vertical against an edge rather than the whole fence ... against a V block. Some of the new BSs now have a short steel rod you can fix to the fence for the same purpose.

This allows you to steer the board to compensate for blade wander. [added: talking about resawing here].

Just a thought.

Other than that, check that the wheels are co-planar, and also search for other threads as this issue has been covered several times.

Bummer eh; get your goodies home and the work's just begun.

PS I didn't see any HT tools there yesterday.

Calm
13th October 2007, 11:19 PM
Thanks Ern i think i remember saying somewhere that the only fence he uses is a post in line with the front of the blade. A quick alteration to the fence will solve that problem very well.

TTIT
14th October 2007, 12:55 AM
Thanks Ern i think i remember saying somewhere that the only fence he uses is a post in line with the front of the blade. A quick alteration to the fence will solve that problem very well.Your BP16A is the same saw I've got David and adjusting both fences will work and using a pivot-fence for resawing will work but won't help getting square cuts off the mitre fence. I use a different 'unconventional' method that lets you leave both fences square like they should be. Every blade you fit will run out to a different degree so I just rotate the entire table to suit. You'll find 2 x 14mm nuts inside the bottom door that lock the threaded sections you can see on the outside on the table mounting block. Loosen the nuts and use a screwdriver in the slots of the threaded rods to adjust the rotation of the table to match your runout. Easy once you've done it a couple of times.:;

Skew ChiDAMN!!
14th October 2007, 01:20 AM
I was wondering when we'd hear about your shopping trip. :D


Maybe the shyte blade supplied???

A quick test for the blade when ripping is to flip the piece of wood over and try cutting from the opposite end of the same side. If it's bad tension or poorly set guides the blade should start wandering the other way, ie. into the fence, as it follows the grain.

If it still wanders away from the fence by the same amount then it's probably the set on the blade and you should replace it ASAP before wasting time trying to tune the BS to get a good cut.

(BTW, the above isn't as reliable an indicator when cross-cutting or cutting MDF or similar. :shrug:)

Don't tell me you spent all those pennies and didn't buy a few extra blades of different sizes and tpi? :oo:

Calm
14th October 2007, 07:06 AM
Thanks TTIT and Skew

[quote=Don't tell me you spent all those pennies and didn't buy a few extra blades of different sizes and tpi? :oo:[/quote]

WHAT purchase wiithout giving you the opportunity to advice me on what i need and where from!!!:D

Seriously what TPI/Brand and where from??

I will be using it to resaw some blackwood (4" & 6" slabs) cutting bowl blanks and squareing up for spindle work - making pen blanks - I have a mandril and bought some pen stuff from Jim that i wasnt going to tell about. So i might try them as well.

I have a chainsaw, a makita power saw and now a BS so it will have to do any sawing that the chainsaw doesnt do. Handsaw he said - yes but no operator.

Was disapointed i couldnt find a Henry Taylor seller to buy some gouges to try last night but i can wait, i am 51 after all not an impatient kid. Weeeeeeeeellllllllll.

Thanks and keep the thoughts coming.

TTIT
14th October 2007, 11:38 PM
Just so I don't give you a bum steer, after adjusting my BS table today to suit my new 1.3TPI x 1" blade, I realised how foggy my damned memory is!!:~ 3 bolts holding table mount to the frame - adjust the table rotation with the 1 bolt that is toward the back of the machine :B

Calm
15th October 2007, 02:23 PM
- adjust the table rotation with the 1 bolt that is toward the back of the machine :B

Thanks I have tried that and i think the blade is a dud.

I ordered 3 new ones today so will try the setup when they come.

In the meantime I will get a purlin bracket and a G clamp (not string) and make a single point post that is level with the front edge of the blade. That will overcome the problem, or i could drill the suplied fence and bolt the purlin bracket to that instead of using the G clamp

TTIT
15th October 2007, 03:01 PM
Thanks I have tried that and i think the blade is a dud.

.............If you can't get enough adjustment out of that to match the drift there is definitely something seriously amiss! I did have a blade like that once and stopped buying from that supplier.:shrug: