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RobTro
12th October 2007, 12:36 AM
I'd likie to know what some of the things people are always yappin about in English are in Japanese, if anyone can help out.

What are the following in Japanese?

mineral spirits
naptha
boiled linseed oil
tung oil
What waxes are there in Japan. All the waxes I can find at the local homecetres are liquid waxes and not paste waxes for finishing.
CAB Akrylic (want something to keep the whiteness of the wood and not turn yellow)
shelac, dewaxed shelacIf you know of a site for this info or an online shop for woodworkers like Lee Valley etc in Japan, it would be greatly appreciated.

Rob

Schtoo
12th October 2007, 01:40 AM
Mineral spirits, aka, turps is ペイントうすめ
Naptha, aka, Shellite or lighter fluid is ベンジン
Boiled Linseed oil is ボイル亜麻仁油 (あまにゆ)
Tung oil is 桐油 (きりゆ)
An excellent flower based oil is えの油 (dunno Kanji off hand)
CAB Acrylic? I dunno exactly what the CAB is so...
Shellac is シェラック二ス

Waxes, you name it you can find it. My local home centre has carnauba, bees, paraffin, etc in pellets, ready to fly, go to the auto section and look for something that has no silicone in it. I use some cheapo stuff usually, about Y700 for a largeish tin, only carnauba wax and spirits to soften it. No troubles whatsoever.

The naptha is used for cleaning, and should be in the drugstore. Get alcohol for the shellac there too, much cheaper.

Shellac is available, as is industrial ethanol, and it's fairly cheap. The problem is finding a place to sell it to you. I haven't done that yet, and I haven't been trying too hard since I can pick up very good dewaxed blonde shellac easily, and the regular kind, I got a kilogram of flakes a while ago.

Off Corporation (http://www.off.co.jp/) are the Japanese LV agent, and one of the guys there worked for LV for some time. They are not cheap on many things, but a lot of their stuff is a steal relatively speaking. By the time you got it sent, it would be cheaper and faster to get the gear from them. Their website is a bit of a pain, so get a catalogue off them.

There are a few other places, including one or two I have used. The short version of most of them is that you pay for the privilege of them communicating in English on your behalf, and they charge you the earth plus 15% for it.

I don't think your English is that bad, do you? ;)


You lucky sod, you just lots of info really easily. I had to learn it all the hard way... :(

RobTro
12th October 2007, 11:50 PM
Thanks Shtoo,

I have been tryin ta find out this stuff to no avail.

But ya come though for me. Bonza, mate.

The mineral turps I was thinking of giving the ペイントうすめ a go but was a bit shyas I didn't want to stuff a finish. I have used it and laquer thinnner. (what is in laquer thinner?)

As far as the waxes go. you must have different home centres there where you are. I haven"t seen much in that line at "Konan" or "Cainz"...but I could be lookin in the wrong place. Will have another go. Maybe it has something to do with that fact that I have never used it so don't know what I am lookin at.:roll:

As far as the "good dewaxed blonde shellac " goes, I have not seen it. You say ya can get pretty easily...where?

Rob.

PS...What are ya working on at the moment. I am currently building my doors for my shed. (small small shed) A bit slow with all the commitments at the moment. About one M&T joint a day. But still trying to chase up a lock. Ther doesn't seem to be the variety ther was in OZ when I lived there.

Schtoo
13th October 2007, 01:58 AM
I think the shellac is made by "Turner Color Works", check with your local shop if the stock Turner stuff, or if they can get it. It's premixed (prolly 2lb cut or so), but stays good for an awfully long time. Smells sweet too. :)

Wax, uhh, err...

I can't remember the brand I use for general waxing, but I do know it has only wax and petroleum spirits. Says so on the can (hope you can read Japanese!).

(But I must admit, I did use some Ubeaut traditional wax today... :2tsup: )

Me, I am trying to make some kind of saleable items for a flea market at the start of next month. Made a few toy cars today, started a couple side/coffee tables and other simple things like that. I'll be happy if I can cover the Y2,500 stall fee to be honest.

Oh yeah, I have a Lockwood 001 Dead latch on the front door of the shed. And I didn't fit it either.

Dad's a locksmith, so last time he was out, he stuck it on there for me. :D

(If ya really want something decent for a lock, and don't mind it looking a bit second hand, I reckon I could coax dad to send something for you along with the occasional bits and bobs he send us. Dunno for sure, he said he was retiring earlier this year, and he may have carried out that threat... :oo: )

RobTro
14th October 2007, 02:18 AM
Hey Schtoo,

I will see what I can find in the way of Turner Color Works.


So if I understand the dead latch, the latch "box" goes on the inside and the outside is basically a flush mounted key hole. You only have to drill a hole through the door for pin????

The simple flush mounted key hole (don't know the term) and an easy to install lock (just screw it on the inside of the door) is what I am after. The dead latch looks like it would be good also against locking myself in.:D:lockd:

BUT can you get extra long "stem" (don't what it is called) to go from the front to the latch on the interior?
My door is 88mm thick.:o:shhh: (Mainly due to the fact that I have exterior hardwood siding over it.)

But anyway, my strange design aside, if you wouldn't mind asking ya Dad about thick door security I would appreciate it.
I don't seem to be able to find anything here. All of it is for standard door thicknesses and project out a bit (deadbolt locks). I was thinking of trying to rig something up but ya may be able to help me out.

Rob

Schtoo
3rd November 2007, 04:11 AM
Sorry, missed this. :D

Thick doors are no problem. The outside lock has a flat thing sticking out the back of it that goes into the lock that mounts on the inside of the door. The flat thing is usually pretty long, so 88mm shouldn't worry it.

The folks are on holiday, and dad will be laid up after that (back surgery) for a while, so I don't know when but I will ask and see what he can do.

RobTro
4th November 2007, 02:23 PM
G'day Schtoo,

thanks for the reply...
I have been thinking I might just use a standard deadlock and set it into the door on the inside. Not the prettiest but it brings the lock bolt to the front where the doors will be closer. The inside gap will be a bit wider maybe 10mm because the edge of one door will have to be chamfered as it is so thick. Otherwise it will bind. ANyway with lock you are talking about, the bolt is on the inside of the door, isn't it? How far does the bolt throw?

Rob

Schtoo
5th November 2007, 01:12 AM
Not bolt, it's a latch.

It sticks out about 35mm I guess. Maybe not far enough for that monster thick door with an inside chamfer.

Funny, my door needed a backing piece to make it thick enough for the outside key to fit.

RobTro
5th November 2007, 07:31 PM
well the door is thick mainly because I am putting exterior harwood siding on it and it has an air gap just as the walls of the shed. yeah, I know; An Air gap?! But the doors take up about 75% of the wall so I make the door the same as the walls or don't bother with the air gap for the walls. Well went for the door as a wall design. And since the siding is serenganbatsu, tropical harwood, it is very heavy so while I M&T'd frame I put ply skins on to resist the inevitable racking. So siding, gap, skins and frame add up.

The shed is up except for the doors now. The doors are almost ready. I just have to glue on the top and bottom edge strips to protect and hide the frame and ply edges from the weather and to make it look nice. But it rained today so just got the clamping frame made.

Once the doors are ready I will hang them and then put on the siding. Putting on the siding last to make sure it all lines up with the wall.

Will post some pics when all ready to go.

Rob.