Organoil Danish Oil - first impressions

[rsser]

This got a good wrap recently in Aust. Wood Review so I've been giving it a go.

I'm a fan of DO finishes - they can do a great job of 'popping' the figure in a finished piece and the Rustins that I've been using only takes two or three coats and nothing else to produce a low to medium sheen. The downside to Rustins is that it goes off in the tin.

The Organoil DO doesn't and is supposed to be good for 2-3 years. It's noticeably lighter in colour than the Rustins as well as being thinner. It soaks into the wood quickly and has a pleasant smell. The rags don't go hard and after two coats and three days (see the pic) it still felt slightly sticky and had a matt finish. So I guess there's not much in the way of driers in it and it's probably lower in resins than the Rustins.

The bowl in the pic is spalted peppercorn and it came up to a low sheen with a lambswool pad buffing and no wet sanding.

The instructions suggest two coats with a wet sanding on the second. They also warn of the grain being raised and to check for that after a couple of weeks. So it sounds similar in performance and use to the Organoil Hard Burnishing Oil.

On balance the extra effort required outweighs the shelf life advantage for me and when the tin is empty I'll be going back to the Rustins.

[hughie]

Ern,
I have DO from Organoil and have been going to get some Rustins. I find that Organoil works OK for me but like you, I would prefer a simpler system hence the interest in Rustins.

What did Thoreau say? Simplfy,simplfy life is frittered away with detail :U

[rsser]

Indeed. Lao-Tse: the ten thousand things.

With the Organoil and a faceplate turning obviously to wet sand you have to leave the piece on the lathe or the faceplate and afterwards come back to finish the base. With Rustins it's off the lathe and done in 1-2 days.

[Fredo]

Ern - I think you're right on the money. I'm no wizard on finishes but the Organoil DO, in my opinion, is too much like a standard oil finish (walnut and orange oil). It's usable for items like tops, weed pots and small turnings but it takes too long to lose that tacky feel and stop attracting dust. So, for bowls, vases and larger turnings I have been using Feast Watson Scandinavian oil (clear matt danish oil, polyurethane oils and resins) it reacts the same way as your Rustin DO. Paint on, let soak for 15 minutes, wipe off excess, dry overnight. I've always had great results with this product over many years. I have experimented with other finishes but always come back to FWS oil. My two cents worth only.

Fredo :U

[rsser]

Thanks Fredo. That's a good two cents worth :wink:

I might check the FWS out, or the Minimax wipe-on poly which topped a FWW comparo (in which the Rustins and Organoil didn't figure btw).

[TePe]

Hi Ern, just a post for some info. A lot of us turners and woodworkers over here have started using ' Osmo Polyx Oil Finish' it is marketed as a floor finish. I've used it on a parquet floor and the finish is astounding for wear and tear. I used the satin clear.

Had quite a bit left and tried it on some of my turnings, two coats with no sanding sealer is more than enough generally. I've never tried to get a high gloss with it as I prefer a satin finish but it may be worth a look. It also dries hard and is easy to re-coat at a later date if needed.

Osmo Oil (http://www.whittlewaxes.com.au/products.htm)

[rsser]

Thanks Tam.

Name doesn't ring a bell down here. Yes, satin or low sheen is my preference too.

[TTIT]

........... for bowls, vases and larger turnings I have been using Feast Watson Scandinavian oil (clear matt danish oil, polyurethane oils and resins) it reacts the same way as your Rustin DO. Paint on, let soak for 15 minutes, wipe off excess, dry overnight. I've always had great results with this product over many years. I have experimented with other finishes but always come back to FWS oil. My two cents worth only.

Fredo :UThis has long been my choice of finishes also. Recently tried the Minwax wipe-on poly after seeing it get a good wrap on the forum and will definitely use it on furniture again but not on turnings. I also inherited some of dad's old finishes which I tried but still went back to FWS for all but the small stuff which gets the Ubeaut treatment. When you're on a good thing........ :shrug:

[hughie]

or the Minimax wipe-on poly which topped a FWW comparo


This is my main finish either matt or gloss. Application is thin so you have alot of control over the finish.[needs lotsa coat tho'] For gloss 5-6 coats at least for good gloss finish.Matt its very easy to achieve that hand rubbed antique look 3-5 coats.
It can go off in the can. I use the gloss as it has a very small opening [around 6mm] and to date have not had any setting in the container. Mind you I have not been near the can for about 6 months, due to my sabbatical from turning.:U

But to get a matt or dull sheen you need only to apply 2-3 coats of the gloss and then buff up with your favourite wax or whatever.

It aint idiot proof, buts its darn near. :U so it suits me. :2tsup:

[Richard Findley]

Hi guys,

I've tried Organoil but found I didn't really get on with it, much like the other comments. To get a really proffessional finish, as described on the can is a real balls ache!:no: I also found that it attracts dust which is almost impossible to remove....:doh:I still have a pair of lightly textured candle sticks thanks to it!!!:B

I soon went back to Chestnut Finishing oil which is basically like the Rustins that most of you guys seem to favour. Couple of good coats and a smear of wax and youv'e got a really lustrous finish:2tsup:, picture of English Oak bowl finished like this attached.

Cheers all,

Richard

[hughie]

Richard,

Chestnut oil, hmmm not sure its available down here. But nice finish :2tsup:

[arose62]

It can go off in the can.

Grrr:((

and that's made it an incredibly expensive finish for me. Averaging about $15 per project so far!

And despite very carefully cleaning the lid, it still needs multigrips and an impact hammer to open it the 2nd time.

OK, the finish worked pretty well for me, but the container hassle, and short shelf life once opened, have ruled it out for me.

Cheers,
Andrew

[rsser]

Yep, exxy stuff Andrew!

Some folk drop marbles in the can to replace what they use and keep the air enclosed to a minimum.

[Tim the Timber Turner]

Yep, exxy stuff Andrew!

Some folk drop marbles in the can to replace what they use and keep the air enclosed to a minimum.

I wonder what you do with all the sticky marbles?:?

You could try the following.

Rustins Danish Oil Finish

Some notes on using Danish Oil

1: Empty a 2 litre silver wine bladder. A push button tap is less likely to clog than a twist tap. (Banrock Station Cab/Shiraz is recommended).
Remove Tap. Wash out bladder and hang in the sun for a few days to dry.
Shake tin to mix the contents then decant into wine bladder. Insert tap and exclude all the air.

2: Disposable vinyl gloves can be used for protection. Latex gloves will dissolve.

3: Decant small quantity from bladder to a small jar. This will keep waste to a minimum if it goes hard. White Spirits is the solvent for Rustins Danish Oil.

The above are from some notes I wrote a few years ago.

Rustins will keep for a number of years in a bladder.

If you have any problems with preparing the wine bladder, just send me a full cask of Banrock Station and I will return it ready to go.

Cheers:)

Tim

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

No-one can ever accuse me of losing my marbles... I always know exactly where they are! In my can of Rustin's.

Sadly, I've suffered through the odd drama when the can is absolutely chockers with marbles and the DO level still drops below that magic one-third full point... and before I get around to decanting it into a smaller can it goes off. :B Do you have any idea how bloody hard it is to open a 1L tin of Rustin's with a can-opener to get your marbles back? :doh:

I've given thought to the wine bladder solution, as I usually buy Rustin's by the litre, but I wasn't too sure how the rubber push-button taps last. It sounds like you've had no problems with 'em perishing, Tim?

Rightio. Off to the bottl-o tomorra for a cask of mozzle and 4 litres of orange juice. (I can already feel the headache coming on... :C)

[rsser]

Off to the bottl-o tomorra for a cask of mozzle and 4 litres of orange juice. (I can already feel the headache coming on)


Go for the cheap port Andy; the sugar hit will have you dancing at the lathe ;-}

Tim, thanks for reposting that.

[RETIRED]

If you have any problems with preparing the wine bladder, just send me a full cask of Banrock Station and I will return it ready to go.Such a generous offer Tim.:):D