new 25" sthil bar

[weisyboy]

i need a new bar for my small log mill and rung up the mower place at brownsplains and found that it will cost me $129 :o for a 25" sthil bar.

dose anyone know where i can get one cheeper?

can i get an origan bar to that fits it?

thaught i shoul add its for a sthil FS 036

[DJ’s Timber]

Try ringing around for some prices, should be able to pick one up cheaper then that. I've just fitted a new 20" bar to mine for about about $80.

And yes you can fit an Oregon bar, just need to pick the right one to suit your saw.

Another thing too, is what type of tip have you been quoted on? That can make a difference in price as well.

[weisyboy]

its a rolomatic tip bar.

was thinking about a 20" but thats what i have now and it just wont cut threw most of me logs. (1" short).

would an origan bar be cheeper than a sthil?

will keep trying to find a better deal.

[DJ’s Timber]

You should be able to pick up a 25" for $90-110 I reckon, also make sure it's not a replaceable tip one as you will wear the bar out before the tip. Slabbing always wears the bar out quicker then the tip.

Don't think there will be much price difference between a Stihl and an Oregon

[BobL]

its a rolomatic tip bar.

was thinking about a 20" but thats what i have now and it just wont cut threw most of me logs. (1" short).

would an origan bar be cheeper than a sthil?

will keep trying to find a better deal.

With a hardnose bar a clamp that just grips the end of the bar nose just before the groove gives a couple of extra cutting inches over the roller or sproket bar but you do lose a bit of power with the hard nose.

Whatever size you buy, if you already have chain loops for that size make sure you get link for link equality. I bought a 20" oregon bar to replace my previous 20" on my Homelite 340. What I didn't realize was the old bar was 70 drive links long whereas the oregon was 72 and none of my old chains fit.

[weisyboy]

my mill clamps one end only so the roler tip is preferd.

i haev no new chain loops ready so that aint a problem will contact a mate in teh forestry industry and see if he can get me one cheep.

thanks for the advice.:2tsup:

[DJ’s Timber]

Well, I contacted my local CS dealer and his price for a 25" bar is $113.25

[weisyboy]

thanks dj

found a place that has them for $110 so will go and see him tomorow.

many thanks for your help.

[weisyboy]

found out what the problem is.

the bastrds at the shop where i got the chain sold me boudy .058 instead of .063 they would not refund me money because they said that would not be able to sell the chain. but they did donate me a new, old 23" bar (came of a saw someone feled a tree on after owning it for a week. hardny used if ever.

all up problem solved.

[BobL]

found out what the problem is.

the bastrds at the shop where i got the chain sold me boudy .058 instead of .063 they would not refund me money because they said that would not be able to sell the chain. but they did donate me a new, old 23" bar (came of a saw someone feled a tree on after owning it for a week. hardny used if ever.

all up problem solved.

Weisy, if you're only using a 25" bar I'd think about using a 0.058 or even 0.050 chain/bar. This will cut faster, creates less sawdust and leaves more wood behind. Water cooling would be a very handy on any seriously hard wood because it means less chains stretch and less chance of chain breakages. I just bought a 20" 0.05 bar low profile chain, haven't used it in a mill yet but am pleasantly surprised at the narrowness of the cut.

Cheers

[weisyboy]

all my skip chain is 3/8 0.058. but is no narrower then the 3/8 0.63 i had before.

tried the bar i was given and new chain and it cut like a dream untill the sprocket in the end of the bar busted in half.

i can tell you there were some not verry nice words flying around along with one chainsaw bar.

i will be ringing the place (witch will stay unnamed) in the morning and telling them where they can stick my business. i will never be buying anything from them ever again. they treated me like this after i spend 200 + dollars there each month.

i will be ringing "the mower place". witch is just down the road and ordering a new bar with them. and they can handle all my stuff from now on.

[matildasmate]

You could try Laurie , I get a bit of gear off of him , he's a good bloke and he use's the gear himself as well , he's a tree muncher to . Cheer's MM

[weisyboy]

allready orderd it ma y give him a call next time.

[weisyboy]

cant get a bar for a sthil with a .058 grove.
will have to get a hasky bar and file out the mounting hole to fit the stihll.
or
dose anyone have a mobleco bar to get rid of?

[matildasmate]

cant get a bar for a sthil with a .058 grove.
will have to get a hasky bar and file out the mounting hole to fit the stihll.
or
dose anyone have a mobleco bar to get rid of?
Hi Weisy mate ...... I currently use 3/8 x .063 carlton chain , but I intend to change to 3/8 x .050 low pro chain for milling , which has a much narrower kerf , around 6mm instead of the around 8mm . Here's a link to some good reading .:U:U:U http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=54548

[weisyboy]

as i say i have a full 25' roll of skip chain for a .058 grove so i need a bar that will fit it otherwide its 500 buck down the drain.:~

[weisyboy]

have contacted origan and GB directly to see what they recon.

can i get a bar specialy made?

if so who by?

[BobL]

as i say i have a full 25' roll of skip chain for a .058 grove so i need a bar that will fit it otherwide its 500 buck down the drain.:~

25ft for $500 sounds like a lot are you sure you don't mean 100ft ?

[weisyboy]

it wasnt 100ft.

it may have been a bit less than 500 i got a few other bits aswell.

it is origan 3/8 skip chain

[BobL]

Have you tried looking at the Oregon Chain and bar selector website at
http://www.oregonchain.com/commonpgm/Selguide_Selctmfg.asp?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG&ShowRem=Y&ShowAnsi=Y&ShowQuality=Y&ShowCombo=Y&usertype=PRO

?

This web page interactivelt steps you through the make, bar length, chain size etc of your saw. You may at least be able to pick up the Blade part number to suit you.

[matildasmate]

as i say i have a full 25' roll of skip chain for a .058 grove so i need a bar that will fit it otherwide its 500 buck down the drain.:~
Well clown , actually no you didnt mention anywhere in the thread that you bought a 25' roll of chain , I cant beleive you were dumb enough to pay $500 for a $120 dollar roll of chain . I was only making a sugestion and provided a link to some good reading , but if this is the way you treat people , no wonder they didnt give you your money back , if this the sort of person you realy are , you can shove it.:((:((:((:((:((:((

[Groggy]

Let's leave the personal stuff out of it ok? Best to walk away if something annoys you rather than let the pixels rile you up.

A quick read of the rules (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=33200) may help. (Not aimed at anyone specifically)

[weisyboy]

Well clown , actually no you didnt mention anywhere in the thread that you bought a 25' roll of chain , I cant beleive you were dumb enough to pay $500 for a $120 dollar roll of chain . I was only making a sugestion and provided a link to some good reading , but if this is the way you treat people , no wonder they didnt give you your money back , if this the sort of person you realy are , you can shove it.:((:((:((:((:((:((

sorry if you took my post the rong way but i was not having a go at you i am infact angry with myself for not checking out the chain better befor i purchsed it.

i may have to re sell it and get the right chain if i cant get the bar made or one to fit. $500 included a few other bits and peices including set of files, set of dimond stones, depth gauge, and some oil.

if you can get the rolls for $120 can you please let me know where as i have been quoted between $300 and $500 by the places round here.

the link you gave me was great i have added it to my favorites for further reading. thanks.

sorry for the mis understanding. :doh:

[weisyboy]

Have you tried looking at the Oregon Chain and bar selector website at
http://www.oregonchain.com/commonpgm/Selguide_Selctmfg.asp?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG&ShowRem=Y&ShowAnsi=Y&ShowQuality=Y&ShowCombo=Y&usertype=PRO

?

This web page interactivelt steps you through the make, bar length, chain size etc of your saw. You may at least be able to pick up the Blade part number to suit you.


.that is a handy little tool. it is favorited to. but i dosent \sean to have a .058 option only .063 and .050?

i have been told that the chain is .058 but it dosent seam to say anyware what it is?

maby i will have to check the chain again.

[matildasmate]

Try Laurie , there's a pdf price list I posted to this thread mate . Hey sorry for being such a wanker mate . The price of the chain was actually about $137.50 + $10.00 postage roughly going by the pdf price list . Not sure how to say this , Just slap me around the head if it sound's like crap , but it seem's a little strange that in Australia , at least on this site , a lot of bloke's seem to use skip chain , but from what I have read on the other site , the Arboristsite (http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=62) that I am also a member of , which has member's from all over the world USA , CAN , Aus , Brit and so on , they mainly use full comp chain and only use Skip chain , either when using long bar's (5' - 6' or longer and then , only when not enough horse power available)or on smaller saw's which cant handle all the cutter's , due to lack of horse power , full comp chain , if you have the power , it cut's faster . Cheer's mate hope this is of some use to you . MM:U:U:U

[weisyboy]

i cut hardwood mainly and find that skip chain cuts at least twice as fast as regular chain and i do not have to push it.

no other countries have wood anyware neer as hard as ours normal chain dose cut well in soft woods and leaves you with a better finish.

the idea of skip chain as i understand it is that it has more time to clear the chips and so dosenot get cloged up or boged down.

[matildasmate]

i cut hardwood mainly and find that skip chain cuts at least twice as fast as regular chain and i do not have to push it.

no other countries have wood anyware neer as hard as ours normal chain dose cut well in soft woods and leaves you with a better finish.

the idea of skip chain as i understand it is that it has more time to clear the chips and so dosenot get cloged up or boged down.
Actually , Africa has the hardest known timber in the world that I know of , being Ebony , there are also a quite a few other timber's around the world of comparable hardness to our's , although we tend to have more of them .:U

[BobL]

Actually , Africa has the hardest known timber in the world that I know of , being Ebony , there are also a quite a few other timber's around the world of comparable hardness to our's , although we tend to have more of them .:U

Hardness is only one of a number of factors that determines how difficult a timber is to cut with a CS. Ebony is very hard but when it finally gives way it chips relatively easily into a powder and comes quite cleanly out of the kerf. More fibrous and resinous timbers like tuart may not be as hard as ebony but are a right royal PITA since its gums up the chain something horrible and this can slow you right down maybe far more than a harder wood. I haven't tried tuart out with my water cooling chain washing setup but I'd be keen to see if makes a difference.

[matildasmate]

i cut hardwood mainly and find that skip chain cuts at least twice as fast as regular chain and i do not have to push it.

no other countries have wood anyware neer as hard as ours normal chain dose cut well in soft woods and leaves you with a better finish.

the idea of skip chain as i understand it is that it has more time to clear the chips and so dosenot get cloged up or boged down.
Sound's interesting mate . I have read a fare bit about skip chain even used it myself . Cheer's MM

[matildasmate]

Hardness is only one of a number of factors that determines how difficult a timber is to cut with a CS. Ebony is very hard but when it finally gives way it chips relatively easily into a powder and comes quite cleanly out of the kerf. More fibrous and resinous timbers like tuart may not be as hard as ebony but are a right royal PITA since its gums up the chain something horrible and this can slow you right down maybe far more than a harder wood. I haven't tried tuart out with my water cooling chain washing setup but I'd be keen to see if makes a difference.
Yes that's true Bob , there are a lot of other factor's , even some soft wood's , are no doubt difficult to mill , but the point I was trying to make , is the fact that there are many timber's in many country's that are just as hard and difficult to mill . But we seem to have a lot of them here . If anyone in there travel's come's across , any info on cornuta Yate hardness , can you let me know thank's . I have a book on tree's and it say's , Cornuta Yate is one of the hardest timber's in the world , buggered if I can find this info , I can get a lot of other info on it , but not hardness , it is a exstremly hard Western Australian hardwood . I have some log's here . Cheer's MM:U