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weisyboy
11th November 2007, 12:27 PM
in a thread i made a wile ago i said i was having trouble when cutting camphor and other soft wood with a newly sharpend chain. they are "corigated" when i cut them.

i found what the problem is the bar is worn so it lets the chain pitch 2 or 3mm each way and the chain gets a good woble up at speed.

so i need to make an auxilary oiler for my mill before i get a new bar.

how have you made yours?

pics of home made and purchased ones?

i was thinking of using a windscreen washer bottle as the tank but am not sure how to attach it to the bar.

dose it need to feed into the chain groove? or can it just run on the chain as it gose past.

any help in apreciated.

BobL
11th November 2007, 08:58 PM
in a thread i made a wile ago i said i was having trouble when cutting camphor and other soft wood with a newly sharpend chain. they are "corigated" when i cut them.

i found what the problem is the bar is worn so it lets the chain pitch 2 or 3mm each way and the chain gets a good woble up at speed.
That makes a lot of sense. An even worse case is a CS one of my brothers gave me. I put it in a mill and it was wandering around badly - eventually after much mucking around I found it was using an 0.058" chain in an 0.063" grooved bar!


so i need to make an auxilary oiler for my mill before i get a new bar. how have you made yours? pics of home made and purchased ones?
The ally BIL Mill Aux oiler (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showpost.php?p=533014&postcount=19) is really nice to use but it is a bit of overkill, I just took the opportunity to access BILs ally welding skills. It has an air breather valve in the cap, and both and on/off and needle flow rate valves which means you don't have to adjust the flow rate every time you turn it on and off. It delivers oil to a bar groove at a maximum rate of about 30 mL/min (for the 076 CS the max rate is 19 mL/min which is not enough for milling logs bigger than about 18"). I typically have the 076 oiler at max and the aux oiler running at around the same rate.

On my small mill I have made a tank out of left over 90mm PVC stormwater fittings and pipe and black poly irrigation fittings. For extra strength I made it double walled by cutting two pieces of 90 mm pipe and splitting one piece and sliding it over the other and gluing them together with PVC glue- the end male threads bits are then glued on followed by threaded caps glued onto the threads. The tank is just under one litre in volume and is attached to a piece of 250 mm long x 20 mm SHS attached to the mill frame. To get enough oil coming though you do need the oil reservoir some distance above the delivery point.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59963&stc=1&d=1194774113
The transparent inidcator line is really useful for working out what's remaining in the tank.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=59964&stc=1&d=1194774113
Underneath it has a T-Piece with one end going off to the indicator line and the other to the bar. I will be using a direct bar groove oil feed line.


i was thinking of using a windscreen washer bottle as the tank but am not sure how to attach it to the bar. dose it need to feed into the chain groove?
You can just drip oil direct onto the chain (from memory both TITT and Martrix have pictures of this sort of set up) although you will probably waste more oil this way. if you only do occasional milling this will be fine but if not a direct bar groove connection is less wastefull.

A direct bar groove connection is not hard to do. Here is a discussion about what I did.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=49448

One of the things about Aux Oilers is that you want to make them as leakproof as possible otherwise you will spread oil everywhere.

weisyboy
11th November 2007, 09:32 PM
thanks for the tips.

my mill attaches to one end of the bar only. (clutch end) could i put the oiler on the back side of the bar at this end. its realy the only place to put it.

to begin with i will have the oil running on teh top of the bar but latter i will see about putting it inside.

i have a ton of old mowers lying around so i might have a tank lying around here someware.

more pics and tips are verry mutch apreciated.

BobL
11th November 2007, 10:07 PM
thanks for the tips.
my mill attaches to one end of the bar only. (clutch end) could i put the oiler on the back side of the bar at this end. its realy the only place to put it.
to begin with i will have the oil running on teh top of the bar but latter i will see about putting it inside.
i have a ton of old mowers lying around so i might have a tank lying around here someware..

Presumably you have your CS oiler turned up to the max and its not blocked or anything like that? If all is OK it sounds like insufficiant oil is getting around to the cutting side of the bar.

I would start with just dropping extra oil onto the chain and see what happens. I think talking to Matilda's Mate would help you out because he uses powerhead side only milling attachment. He's using water coolin as well.

weisyboy
15th November 2007, 06:51 PM
and how would i contact matildas mysterious friend?

bobsreturn2003
15th November 2007, 08:22 PM
my slabber drops oil on nose of bar via a copper pipe silver soldered to part that grips bar , adjusted by small brass tap and fed from 1/2 ltr tin from thinners ,about 2 ft above bar with 1/4 copper tube soldered in seem to work ok for last 5 years , you need to keep chain tight so it snaps back to bar and dont lift more than 10mm when you pull it otherwise chain will run all over ,and wear bar real quick , thats on a 4.5 ft bar ! your chainsaw should be ok unless your running more than 3 ft bar . cheers bob

BobL
15th November 2007, 11:57 PM
and how would i contact matildas mysterious friend?

He's one of us!

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/member.php?u=17435

weisyboy
16th November 2007, 08:36 PM
right when you said matildas mate.

i thaught you ment a friend of matildas.:B

matildasmate
17th November 2007, 09:39 PM
It is basicly a garden hose , gravity fed from a tank , a peice of 6mm instrament air line and a micro valve used in drip system's .

weisyboy
18th November 2007, 04:43 PM
thanks will see what i can work out.

weisyboy
30th November 2007, 09:37 PM
after reading this (http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=54307) thread i have decided to rig up a wattercooling system.

however i am using an alaskan mill so am verry rarely need a water tap. so will have it hooked up to the spray tank on the quadbike (60psi should be enough presure:U)

i will be mixing detergant with the watter to make it more slipery and mix with the oil (not sure if this is good or bad?)

will post pics when done.

BobL
30th November 2007, 10:58 PM
after reading this (http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=54307) thread i have decided to rig up a wattercooling system.

however i am using an alaskan mill so am verry rarely need a water tap. so will have it hooked up to the spray tank on the quadbike (60psi should be enough presure:U)

i will be mixing detergant with the watter to make it more slipery and mix with the oil (not sure if this is good or bad?)

will post pics when done.

I wouldn't use water cooling as a substitute for insufficient oil. If your bar and chain are wearing too quickly that is a sign of excess friction or not enough oil, and water won't help much and might make things worse. Water keeps the dust down and the chain clean and cool and reduces stretching, but I don't believe it reduces friction and wear at the actual contact point where the chain rides on the bar. Water is nowhere near viscous enough and is squirted out of the bar/chain gap in an instant leaving metal to rub on metal. I would also be very careful about using detergent as I think it would wash the oil off which will increase wear.

You also only need a trickle of water to make it effective

weisyboy
1st December 2007, 09:26 AM
the chain is oiling alright now and the bar hgasent worn just gott sold the romg blody chain.

will try watter cooling to see if it makes a diferance to the way it works.