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wheelinround
12th November 2007, 06:24 PM
Finally I got to make a couple of face plates a 9 1/2" and 6" out of some CD ply

and some little bits n pieces door stoppers (not finished yet) and some christmas tree hangers that LOML is going to paint.

I am even after sharpening tools still getting tear out which can be seen on the pine in particular. Can anyone help/advise me what I maybe doing wrong.

weisyboy
12th November 2007, 06:48 PM
pine is arel basturd for tearout.

you need realy realy sharp tools (honned).

use the tool in bevel rubbing mode and use it at a slight angle working along the peice not square and working into the peice.

and even then it is hard to get it right

Skew ChiDAMN!!
12th November 2007, 11:01 PM
Yep. Radiata is the best timber I can think of for practicing your tool technique on, because it's both unforgiving and, more importantly, cheap. :D You need to use good techniques and sharp tools to obtain a worthwhile finish.

If you can find old-growth pine with fine, tight rings, or birds-eyed pine (I've often see it at Bunnies, in the "reject pile" 'cos home-handymen reckon it's "full of small knots." :oo:) then the end result can be just as beautiful as any other wood...

That's an interesting way to mount on to a faceplate... quite cole-jawish. Personally, I think I'll stick to my hot-melt glue. :wink:

OGYT
13th November 2007, 05:31 AM
Looks like they work! Even though I don't understand how.
Turning pine without tearout is like me flyin' the space shuttle... it ain't gonna happen. :D However... you can get it pretty nigh slick if you crank up the speed and take ver-rr-rry light cuts with a ver-rr-rry sharp tool. I turn it up to about 2000 rpm or higher, to smooth out tearout.

wheelinround
13th November 2007, 05:41 AM
pine is arel basturd for tearout.

you need realy realy sharp tools (honned).

use the tool in bevel rubbing mode and use it at a slight angle working along the peice not square and working into the peice.

and even then it is hard to get it right


Thanks WB yep guilty tools were a bit dull sharpened but not honed.
Actually got to do some reading of a book last night on turning and am a little less hard on myself seeing that pro had similar problems.


Yep. Radiata is the best timber I can think of for practicing your tool technique on, because it's both unforgiving and, more importantly, cheap. :D You need to use good techniques and sharp tools to obtain a worthwhile finish.

If you can find old-growth pine with fine, tight rings, or birds-eyed pine (I've often see it at Bunnies, in the "reject pile" 'cos home-handymen reckon it's "full of small knots." :oo:) then the end result can be just as beautiful as any other wood...

That's an interesting way to mount on to a faceplate... quite cole-jawish. Personally, I think I'll stick to my hot-melt glue. :wink:
Thanks Skew well those pieces were real cheap FREE so no great loss if anything had gone bottom up.
One of our local Bunnies has all but dumped its scrap bins we have 2 in a radius of 5k's but plenty of new homes being built with piles of offcuts.

In the process of making the Cole Jaws (already cut to size marked out etc) same material but am waiting for the shipment from Gill to arrive so I can set it up for that chuck rather than use the Nova 3G.

Hot melt gun I'll give it a try sits in the draw hasn't been used for ages.

Thanks to all of you.

Al your post came up as I was typing the reply Thanks I have noticed the speed thing got to keep it in the old noggin