Hercus fibreglass guard repair?

[neksmerj]

Dear members,

This may not be the appropriate section to put this thread, but since it is for a lathe, it's here.

Continuing right along, the fibreglass belt guard on my 9" Hercus, was damaged whilst in cold storage.

I have never worked with fibreglass before, and if I had any brains, I should hand it over to the experts, however, it's doesn't seem a big job, and I'm independent. Basically, the side of the guard has been broken away, extending around to the front face.

I would like some advice on fixing the guard, can't wait to get itchy fingers.

Attached is a blury snap of the damaged area.

Regards,

Ken

[pipeclay]

Theres a product called Peel and Patch available from Whitworths Marine&Leisure in Melbourne it may be suitable for your small repair.

[wheelinround]

Looks like the other side has been repaired previously did you do that:rolleyes:

if you have an allergy to fibreglass DONT :no: otherwise wear gloves WEAR A MASK and eye wear

Bunnings have small repair kits easy to use make sure you get the hardener/cataylst also read instructions as to mixture of cataylst, ambient temperature is a big factor in mix going off to much catylst and it can ignite it can get that hot.

you'll need a short stippling brush an old paint brush will do

you will need to make a pattern to place over the area broken away and clean the area totaly free from oil etc

grind off the paint around the area to about 2 inches if you can get the grinder inside scuff it a bit so it has something to bond too

spread some resin over the area layer of glass then stipple more resin more layers of glass stipple till air bubbles are gone

[Fossil]

I make fibreglass racing hulls for a hobby.
PM me if you need a hand Ken. I'ts not difficult, but a few tips along the way will help.

Fossil

[neksmerj]

Hi Gentlemen,

I appreciate your tips, will check them out. Fossil, will send PM when in trouble.

"Wheelinround", no I did not fix the other side, that's how the guard was made, pretty rough inside. Obviously hand laid up into a female former, then left unfinished.

If I attempt this repair, I will need to support the new material with some sort of backing. Will mdf do the job, and what sort of release agent should I use so the new fibreglass doesn't stick to it?

I also presume, that the edges of the repair, will need to be feathered on the inside for a smooth transition from new to old.

Further comments are invited.

Ken

[Greg Q]

Hi Ken...I can swing by and have a look if need be. I have a book on this very thing I can lend you if you'd like. As a trade I wouldn't mind making a drawing from yours in order to fabricate a guard for my machine.

Cheers

Greg

[neksmerj]

Hi Greg,

You are more than welcome to drop in, anytime, any afternoon or evening.

Will send you a PM with address details.

Will take you up the book offer/lend, and will prepare an Autocad dwg of the guard, if you like.

Regards,

Ken

[Greg Q]

Hi Ken...Don't trouble yourself with the cad drawing...I just need some basic dimensions and a photo so that I can make a mould and lay up the part for myself. In auto work this is usually done by covering the part with a release agent then making a fiberglass female mould. I've made door skins and other parts this way with good results.

I'll give you a ring when I'm back in town tomorrow.

Greg

[Fossil]

Greg, you may be better off taking a mould off kens when it is repaired, and then laying up your own. 10 coats of wax will be needed to be on the safe side. Bed the guard down on to a sheet of glass or melamine board, with plasticine. Lay four or five layers of 4oz mat over for a mould that should be strong enough for a few pulls. You won't need to go to lengths such as tooling gelcoat etc, for the mould, as yo are only pulling one part, so I think a resin surface would be fine.

Ken, anything that comes to hand can be used as a backer. Release agent can be wax, PVA or wax paper or cling wrap. Rough up the existing edges well, and use chopped strand as reinforcement. Remeber that the key to a good job, is just enough resin to soak the mat. Excess resin makes for a weak job. You can rough sand cut the job back after a few layers of FG.

Mabey a belt sander inverted to use as a linisher would make the job easy. Finish with a thinish layer of bog.... plasti bond et al, and sand for painting.

Bunnies is very exxy for FG. I buy mine in twenty litre drums, but you're in another state so I cant help out there. You will probably find it far cheaper to get supplies from a boating place. We have Bias Boating in NSW. If you have one of those, they are fairly reasonable.

Fossil

[Fossil]

Ummm. you beat me to it Greg. :)

[antoni]

Hi all if in city try Saint-Gobain in North melbourne.
635 Queensberry st PH 9329 0646
I get most of our boat glass materials there.
Thanks Tony