Getting the moulds out

[TK1]

HI,

I'm in the midst of making my first kayak, a S&G from Chesapeake Light Craft. Hope to have it finished over the xmas break (and promise I'll put up some piccies).

As with all good boat-builders, I'm already planning the next build (I have the next 4 thought out :D).

Kayak #2 will be David Payne's Marathon TK1. And hence a question I need to answer before I start putting it together...(sorry up front for the long explanation):

It's built on mould stations, just like his bigger boats, with a couple of permanent bulkheads and the plywood sides attached to stringers. My issue is, the stringers are rebated into the moulds (so their outside edge is flush with the edge of the mould station/bulkhead, obviously). It's hard chine.

So the hull bottom and sides are built upside down over the mould form.

Given the shape of the kayak, it appears it won't "lift off" the moulds due to the upper chine being 'caught' by the moulds.

How do those of oyu who have built by this method remove the moulds? My only thought is to cut each one in half, and bolt to the strongback, then be able to remover the moulds in halves which will allow them to beslid out and the hull to be lifted off. Is this right, or is there another way?

I thought of using Exit Mould, but apparently I'm confused (it seems "mould" has a non-boatbuilding meaning too, something to do with cleaning bathrooms, so I didn't show much interest) :D:D

Any wise words form the real boatbuilders would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Darren

[Boatmik]

Do you mean the sheerclamp? The one on the top edge of the hull?

I think the other ones will be OK as the normal geometry allows them to lift off with no probs. NORMALLY!

So if you are having worries about the sheerclamp - no probs - notch it into the mould but don't fasten it permanently to the plywood - either clamp it or use drywall/plasterboard screws. On a ply boat it doesn't need to be notched into the stem - so it can be glued later when the shell is off the mould.

The other place is the ends of the boat where the chinelog's will be glued to near vertical ply as they fair in with the stem. Normally there are not too many moulds in this area. But NORMALLY it is possible to separate any problem moulds from the strongback and roll the hull shell upright. And then release the moulds my sliding them toward the centre of the boat.

Another way to make sure is after notching the moulds for the stringers then having a good look and cutting away the moulds so the stringer can be removed in a vertical direction later - all this before the ply goes on!

Best wishes
Michael

[TK1]

Thanks Mik, I knew you'd know how it's done :)

With the kayak, I'd normally 'glass it whilst the hull is still on the moulds. Would you suggest then leaving the top chines (yes, the sheerclamp is the one in question) unattached, removing the hull, then re-attaching once clear? I assume the permanent bulkheads would need to come out too, then be re-attached with the sheerclamp?

I think I prefer though the option of sliding them out once it's turned over - there should be enough curve in the hull to do this, and it saves cutting each one.

Will think about the options....

Thanks,
Darren

[Boatmik]

Howdy Darren,

Options are what it is about! I'm sure you will think of some others too!

Best wishes

MIK