Cheap transformer source reqd - Microsoft PC gaming s/wheel

[scooter]

Gday

Greg (Groggy) recently gave me a steering wheel & pedal set for the PC, it's a Microsoft Force Feedback wheel.

It needs a 12V DC 1.3A supply to run, it originally came from the US though so the 110V plugpack is of no use here.

So.........I need a transformer. 1.3A is a pretty meaty plugpack, & costs about $30 upwards.

Funds are tight, though, and would prefer to get out of it cheaper. What about the following alternatives:

1) Old PC power supply, a bit of googling shows they usually have a 12V supply which would have amps to spare. Minor downside is the size of the brick, for which I'd make up some sort of small case. Upside is it would cost nothing, as I have a few retired PCs.

2) Transformer from 12V halogen downlights. Yet to check whether these are DC or AC, but they seem to be rated sufficiently to do this job. Could probably scam one from work for cheap. Downside?

Any other ideas??


Cheers.....................Sean

[q9]

Have a check of the input voltage, some power packs can take multiple inputs. The Mrs had a camera she bought O/S - 110V, but if you read the instructions, it says plug into 110-240V...all it needed was a new plug. But check first obviously :)

[scooter]

Thanks for the input, mate, looks like the computer p/s will be the go, more than enough grunt, regulated, & free. Bit bulky, but then again, so am I. :D


Cheers....................Sean

[Groggy]

PC supply sounds like the go Sean.

The 110v transformer is not a 110-240 unit.

[scooter]

Cheers Greg. :)

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Sean, if you use an ATX PSU, there are a couple of little things to watch out for...

Firstly, they're a 'switch-mode supply' so they need a constant load. It's an idea to add a power resistor, (around 10A, high W) to act as a dummy load.

If there's an on/off switch on the PSU, the +5VSB line will probably stay active even when this switch is in the off position - it's used for the "standby" and "wake-on whatever" mobo features. I hook this up to a LED to indicate the things is plugged into the mains. :)

Some newer PSUs have voltage sense. These are extra wires that run to the voltage wires and can confuse the issue. In the mobo lead bundle(s) (as distinct from the IDE leads) there should be 4 red and 3 orange wires. (From memory) Less than this and it's probably voltage sense and there'll be a brown, pink, green or grey :roll: wire you need to connect as well. There may be still other variations.

Good luck! It's a simple enough job and there are some decent DIY conversion guides on the 'net, but make sure they cover the above issues! Some older articles are for the old AT PSU's and just don't work for ATX PSUs... :C

[scooter]

Thanks for chiming in, Andy. :)

The PS I'm using is actually an older type from a DX2/66, that'd be an AT type?

Does any of what you mentioned apply to the AT type as well.

Will have a google too. Any links you have would be handy.


Cheers mate...................Sean

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

The PS I'm using is actually an older type from a DX2/66, that'd be an AT type?

Most likely.


Does any of what you mentioned apply to the AT type as well.

The odds are: no. :)

However, being a DX2 it may have a voltage sense or "power good" wire. The simplest way to tell is simply see if it'll fire up with no load...

[scooter]

Powered it up today, nothing plugged in to it, & measured 11.7v across yellow/black with a DMM.

Whaddya think, would it still need the load?

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

:2tsup:

Need? Not if it's always plugged into the s/wheel when powered. But it wouldn't hurt to add a dummy load... even if it's just a resistor/LED setup on the +5V line to say "I'm still switched on, ya dummy!" :U

[scooter]

Thanks mate, it will only be used for the wheel at this stage, so will keep it simple for the time being.

If I have trouble with it switching off when in use I'll rehash it.


Cheers.................Sean