picture frame WIP

[forunna]

I got the word a few days ago from SWMBO that daughter no1 wants a picture frame for christmas. (appart from many other things).
So I thought I could do my first WIP. Not that it will be a very long or exciting one.
Here is day one.

1. ready for cutting, 2. cut, 3. trial fit, 4. drilling dowels, 5. clamped up.

I have already realised I should have routed the rebate before I glued up. :~

[Christos]

Bugger

[munruben]

:doh: Oh well we live and we learn.:)

[JDarvall]

Still ok I think. You can still rout that rebate in with a straight bit in a router and fence. Trim up the corners where the rebates meet with a chisel. Should be fine.

The way I'd do it is just set the fence to run clockwise around the outside of the frame. Lock the depth of cut fixed. (no plunge setting) ...Lock up your arms and torso , rest the router on its nose, fence tight to the outside of the frame and just plunge in sweeping forward to depth. then go all round.

[Hardenfast]

Take note of Jake's (Apricotripper) advice, Craig - he's a master when it comes to picture frames & mouldings. I have also added rebates as an after thought this way, although I have gauged from the inside of the frame using a small wheel-guide under the trimmer as the guide fence. This way you can't cut too deep/far into the frame. If you have only got the standard fence guide and must do it gauging from the outside edge, as Jake said: "lock up your arms and torso...."
Good luck.

Wayne

[forunna]

Thanks,
I think I understood all that.
I messed up the corners a bit though.

Now how do I hold all the bits in the back?
and how do I finish the frame? suggestions?
Ive never actaully finished jarrah before.
Im not after glossy, jsut something low key.

[munruben]

I would just seal the frame with a coat of shellac and wax it to achieve the shine you want. Others will probably have more suggestions.
To secure the glass and picture in the frame, you need a backing board that fits neatly inside the rebate of the frame behind the glass and picture. (and mask if using one) the backing board is held in place with special "points" and are inserted with a special little tool made for the job.
However, if you don't have access to this little tool or points. You can hold the backing board in place with little brads or nails.
Hope this helps.

[artme]

"I messed up the corners a bit though."

Why do you think wwodfiller was invented?:D:D:q

[JDarvall]

Maybe that wheel probably have been better afterall eh.

I like it with the fence the other way than what you have it there. I've found its important the fence is on the left, when you go around clockwise. Pushing forward, else I find it too hard to control in some points, which I dare to say is whats happened to you at those corners. And also to screw on a face to the fence so that when you reach a corner you've got more control. (the face is filling in that fence gap).

But then the fence idea will only work neatly if the frames sides are parallel. Else the wheel sounds like the go. up to you.

Think you may have needed two clamps as well. Looks like the whole frame will spin annoyingly as you have it there. Maybe not. I'd find that risky. Were all different though eh.

Definetly suggest you make plenty of test cuts on scrap first no matter how confident or how much experience you've had in the past. Every time I use a router I make a test cut just so I know how the machines going to behave at an edge or a corner....then get out the calipers and check everything. I lock up all the turn screws with plyers too. I want them all a bit tighter than finger tight, or else I fear there'll be a slip.

What I'd do now to hide those messy corners is cut some mdf or ply to fit over that glass which should bring it up flush with the frame (so you should have planned this in advance. Guessing your rebate depth is wrong)

Then with wide brown tape, tape it all down. And that should hide the mess and it'll look intentional. And nobody will know. But you of course. But just pretend it didn't happen :D

[forunna]

apricotripper, You picked the problem with the clamp, I had to lean my hip against the frame at times.
The face on the fence would have been a good idea, will have to look into that for future.
The corners arent a problem, I merely over shot a bit but its on the back so not visible so dont need any fixing.
The depth of cut is fine, maybe a fraction wide but the perspex still fits OK.
Deffinately need to run them over the router table next time before glue up.
I was thinking of a template router bit with the bearing much smaller than the bit but the local hardware didnt have much of a range. Does such a bit exist?

Munruben, Shellac is a bit fiddly isnt it? will a few coats of wax look OK on jarrah? never used either before.

[JDarvall]

The depth of cut is fine, maybe a fraction wide but the perspex still fits OK.

I'm not sure we're thinking the same thing. I mean't to make sure the backing board is flush with the back of the frame, the combined thickness of the perspex and backing board = depth of cut.

The idea to get it flush was just to be able to tape over so it look neat and cover those corners.

But if your happy with them, thats all that counts eh.

That bearing bit idea sounds better too. Better than the wheel off the fence....You can buy them, but I'd say it wouldn't be a common one....more expense uno. sets of bearings. or whatever.

Probably just do what works already like you say on that router table. Sounds fine to me. So many ways of doing these things.

[sumu]

I have relatively good experience on routing, and I have learned to avoid the use of bearing bits as far as possible.

The simple reason is that even with very high-profile brands of bits, the bearing may get stuck especially if it has been in use enough to gain your trust. For example if that happens during routing some wood species high on resins and sugars, the burned track it leaves goes deep in wood, too.

Usually they work well and no problems then, but it's a nasty smokey surprise and makes you philosophical on why you decided to use bearing bit when a fence would have been surefire way to do it.


And yes, routah goes left. Slap your face once when you say this aloud, or pinch your lady in the buttocks so she will slap your face when at the same time you say aloud "routah goes left".

Looking to the driving direction, the support needs to be on the left side always. External fence can be always seen on the left side of the router. Despite bearing bit and the router's own fence are located on the work piece right side, they take left side support against the wood, naturally. If you drive opposite direction, the router always bounces and leaves wavy track behind.

I hope I do not sound patronizing you, I've been thru the same learning experience before it went in the spine.

BTW, besides the frame, I like your hand miter saw box. I have an old Nobex 202 I like to use.

A tip for mitre saw box: if it starts to stuck a little, I use fluoropolymer cross country ski wax for lube. Either aerosol or felt pen dispenser. Not much needed per treatment, it's better the less, just a quick single puff or wipe. Solvents evaporate quickly and leave very very thin and even teflon dispersion on the saw blade and upper guides. Stays well enough for sawing, and does not affect on gluing the wood.

I know that fluoro ski wax is sold in Australia, too. Check it out, the right choice of type makes super slippery surfaces.

kippis,

sumu

[forunna]

um,.
the boards on the back are supposed to be flush are they?
oh well, next time. :-
Nothing like a learning experience for learning eh?

that is the back of the router in that picture and I was pulling it. Thats probably just as bad as going the wrong direction though is it.

ski wax eh? I'll keep that in mind.

[JDarvall]

um,.
the boards on the back are supposed to be flush are they?
oh well, next time. :-
Nothing like a learning experience for learning eh?

that is the back of the router in that picture and I was pulling it. Thats probably just as bad as going the wrong direction though is it.

.

:D they don't have to be. Its just how I like to do it and I was just thinking of a way to hide those corners. since it doesnt bother you, maybe just cut up a bit of 3mm mdf to fit and hold it all in place with a few small nails like mentioned before. And she'll be right. :wink:

[Scally]

I use rebating router bits, especially for inside edges.

There are straight bits with bearings on the end or you can get a set like this;

http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=240_17360_17600

They let you sneak up on the final depth and thickness and mistakes are less likely to damage the frame.

THe good thing about picture frames is that you have a good wide flat surface for the router to ride on.

[forunna]

thanks, I think the 3mm mdf is the go.

and the rabbetting bits look lke a good b'day prezzy. (too late for chrissy)

Next question for the experienced framers.

This frame is for my daugther to create a collage of school friends, is there some kind of sticky board that would hold all the small pictures in place?

[Outsider]

Giday,

Spray on Adhesive is the go. I got mine from Spotlight in the craft section.

the particular on I got was not permanent.

Cheers

[forunna]

Spotlight for woodworking supplies eh?
thanks Outsider.

[Bonj]

Hi all,

This is my first post so go easy on me. MDF will be fine for a few years, but will eventually turn your photos yellow from acid burn. The best compromise between price and stability is either foamcore or matt board. You can get them from framing suppliers such as a1framingsupplies.com.au (no affiliation... I have bought frame moulding, matt board and foamcore from them and been pretty happy). You can buy framing tape to stick your photos to the backing board, or you can buy foamcore with an adhesive backing so you can stick your photos straight to the board. Glass is cheapest by the sheet if you can cut it yourself. Some people prefer anti-glare glass, but I just use plain. I buy my glass from G.James Glass and Aluminium. I get them to cut it for me, and it's the cheapest I've found so far. The spray adhesive isn't too bad. I have used it for a test, and it has lasted on an inkjet print for a couple of years with no visible signs of acid burning or anything.

Hope some of that helps.

[forunna]

thanks Bonj,
I'll keep that in mind in future.
All finished now, used 3mm ply for the backing and and some white stiff paper from a craft shop for the main backing.
I was pushed for time in the end (finished chrissy eve arvo) so just polished it up with a coat of ubeaut traditional wax and buffed it up.
Here's the pics;