Building a Storer Rowboat [Archive]

bitingmidge

18th December 2007, 11:10 PM

In November 2005 I announced to the world that one day just maybe, Storer would come up with a rowboat design and when he did, I'd build one.

Daddles was a co-conspirator at the time, and I was going to start in early 06, honest I was, until Mik and I got a bit distracted with PDRacers for a bit, and well, time flies when you're having fun. The full story of the development of the plans is here on Mik's website, (http://www.storerboatplans.com/Rowboat/Rowboat.html) including some pics of a quickie model I built when it was just a glimmer in our respective eyes.

Now I am under threat of things worth than death if I don't finish the Eureka soon, but it's been a bit of a hobby and therefore didn't matter till my beloved decided it was HERS. A few (hundred) others have been completed in the meantime, so the urgency was taken out of building the prototype as well.

Undeterred, the rowboat will commence over Christmas, and as is my custom, I'll start posting progress right here for all to see.

I have actually had the gaboon ply in my rack for about two years, ($150.00), the epoxy and related bits were bought at least a year ago at Boatcraft Pacific ($150.00) and today I paid a visit to John Whitewood (http://www.woodworkforums.com/member.php?u=15794)'s place in northern NSW to pick up all the scantling timber I need (about $170.00)

So less than $500.00 over three years isn't going to make an expensive boat, I've had the Gaco rowlocks for a couple of years ($25.00) and the oars are about half complete.:-

I reckon another hundred will see it painted and pretty.

Watch this space over the coming weeks! :p

Pic 1 - a load of Paulownia ready to be turned into a rowboat, in front of part of Whitewood's Paulownia plantation. The stuff is so light, I had around a quarter of a cubic metre on the racks, (for a couple of other projects as well), and about 70 kg total I reckon.

Cheers,

P
____________________________________________________

Post Script - added much later. Now two more Rowboats being built. One in Maine, one in Adelaide

The Compass Project Youth project building the MSD rowboat is here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=94441) - Maine

And now

Daddles building a Storer Rowboat (same plan as above) has started in Adelaide here (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=94191)

MIK

bitingmidge

18th December 2007, 11:40 PM

Ohhh my goodness! :oo:

I've just seen the knot on the front rope! Don't worry kiddies, it's not actually a bunch of spaghetti, under that mess there is a very tidy, truckies hitch with two half hitches and a thing the name of which I've forgotten but looks like a bow for quick release.

The left over bits were macrame'd into a tea cosy before we left.

Cheers,

P
:D

hairymick

19th December 2007, 06:28 AM

Hey Midge,

I am looking forward to your build on this one mate. I have been playing with the idea of building a very nice row boat for a whle now.

Also, Thank you for posting the link to Whitewood. I have been wanting to get my hands on some good paulonia for some time.:D If you don't mind my asking, If you are going to use gaboon ply on this boat, where on it do you plan to use the paulonia?

Another question - sorry -:B How do you think, paulonia would work as shear clamps on a decked kayak?

regards,

Mick

bitingmidge

19th December 2007, 07:44 AM

Mick,

The boat construction is notionally a derivative of the "instant boat" structure, which has basic framing to stiffen the ply or to form landings for glueing meeting pieces together. Paulownia is the lightest timber that will do the job. I used WRC on my Goat Island Skiff.

By time it's milled, there might be 30 kg of timber in the boat. Paulownia is a little more than half the weight of hoop pine for instance, so that's close enough to 30kg I won't have to lift or propel, which is a lot of kilos. It's not a terrifically strong timber, but given it's use in this context it doesn't need to be. Here's a nifty summary of comparative specs of a few common timbers: http://www.privateforestry.org.au/camwp_4.htm

Have a look at Mik's photos of building the Goat Island Skiff (http://www.flickr.com/photos/boatmik/sets/72157602972202430/) to get an idea.

I can't see why paulownia wouldn't be fine as deck clamps.

John's timber is very good quality, and well priced. The only caveat is that he hasn't got a simple delivery arrangement in place for lengths over 2m. For us, the drive down was a pleasant distraction, and probably cost less than delivery anyway.

More about how it goes as the work progresses, starting with getting it down to size next weekend!

cheers,

P
:D

Cliff Rogers

19th December 2007, 09:28 AM

:2tsup:

Now... that ducting. :rolleyes:

Wild Dingo

19th December 2007, 05:31 PM

Really the question isnt when are you going to start... but... what the blazes have you done with daddles? I mean the blokes been MIA for some time now... so give over Midgey one what the heck have you done with the young fella?

bitingmidge

19th December 2007, 05:45 PM

Daddles, last time I spoke with him, was alive and well and living in a bicycle.

I will give him a hoy! It's time he rejoined us I think.

As for the ducting, well Cliff m'man, I have this son-in-law who is all keen to see it done, so while I'm building boats, I'm hoping he'll be hanging ducts!

We'll see.

Cheers,

P
:D

Boatmik

22nd December 2007, 08:13 AM

Cool!

Will it be finished by the time I get up there on the 16th of next month?

I will be spending the whole of the 16th sipping Taiwanese Lemon Green Tea in Brisso's Chinatown if that gives you more time ...

Actually - I think the timber is an overestimate - 30kg is a lot!!!! The whole boat won't weigh much more than that.

But the difference between a light boat is dramatic - there is just so much more pleasure in it - when you pick it up - when rowing or sailing - it just feels completely different.

I'll be watching this forum with interest.

When I get time I will put up some of the article I wrote for Amateur boatbuilder about the rowboat.

bitingmidge

22nd December 2007, 01:47 PM

Well my first mistake was to trust my own maths! Crikey you lose a lot of volume of timber when you dress it!

I haven't started yet, but in theory, here's the volume of scantling timber, and a nice little schedule that shows you how much (or how little) weight you'll add by changing the species of timber)

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62988&d=1198291616

Cheers,

P

bitingmidge

22nd December 2007, 10:36 PM

Day 1.

First day of the Christmas Break, Bright sunny, hot and humid.
Got up at 3.00 am and decided it was too early to start. Read for a bit then slept till a very civilised 7.30.

Being a few days before Christmas, I knew I wasn’t going to get a great run at it but if I’d managed to clear a work space in the garage and get the plywood out before 9.30 when I had an optometrists appointment, I’d have done well.

I did well!

Back into it by two, and by the time I’d read the instructions and made the usual quota of minor errors, I had all the bits set out by 6.30 ish. Probably less than four hours work, and I don't know if that's fast or slow. I was a bit distracted from time to time, and most people could easily do it in that time working alone.

Working at a low bench height is the worst thing I can do to my back, so I was pretty glad to have that over.

I’m trying to spend a bit of time proof-reading the planset for Mik as I go along, so that meant a few interruptions for a chat on the phone too!

pics:

BS doesn’t stand for British Standards! The middle sheet of ply (which I’ve had for nearly two years) turns out to be a bit of a dud, and the shops are closed till the New Year. There are filled cracks on the veneers on both sides of this sheet! I’ve slightly rearranged Mik’s layout to work around it, but there’s not much to spare. 

Since my eyesight isn’t perfect anymore and it’s easy to make a mistake, I often mark the dimension I’m using (specially when I’m using the same one a few times) with a bit of electricians tape. Saves counting all those little millimetres more often than one has to! 

Mik’s standard setout drawings make it all a bit easy, just draw a series of parallel lines across the ply 300 apart, then measure the offsets straight from the drawing. Double check each dimension when you’ve finished, and you won’t have any troubles. 

Spring clamps and heavy weights make it easy to work by yourself. Once the offsets are marked, tap in some panel pins on the intersections, and clamp a fairing batten to them. Mark the lines! 

I use the chalk to ensure I don’t accidentally work over the top of another part. If you follow the plans that can’t happen, but... well see the first pic! My tolerances are even less than the plans and it's easy to get confused when staring at a mass of little black crosses on a sheet of ply. If you look carefully, you’ll see the faired outline in red on what will be the starboard side of this bottom panel.

Tomorrow, we cut!
:D:D

WOW! Looks like we've got the World's biggest thumbnails now! :o

jmk89

23rd December 2007, 06:22 AM

Looking good, Midge. Look forward to watching your progress.

I like the electrician's tape trick.

The big thumbnails mean you almost don't need to open the pictures!

hairymick

23rd December 2007, 07:48 AM

G'day Midge,

Mate do you mind if I ask questions as you proceed with your build?

I spoke with my lovely wife yesterday about the potential of a lovely wooden row-boat for romantic afternnon picnics at out local lake and she has given her blessing for just such a project!!:2tsup:

I haven't built any of Boatmiks fine boats yet and am real interested in the methodology as well as this particular boat.

Looking at your panel mark -out, have you scarfed the complete panels together before marking out? or are they just sitting against each other while you mark them out?

Oh yeah,

I really like your tape on rule idea and the pin nails in your reference marks.

Please keep the piccies coming mate. I am learning a lot here.

Merry Christmas mate.

Mick

bitingmidge

23rd December 2007, 07:59 AM

Mick,

The more questions that get asked, the more useful this thread becomes.

It's interesting to me, because it seems that no matter how many similar pics there are on the web there are always people seeing them for the first time, and this forum gives them the opportunity to ask!

The ply isn't scarfed, it will be joined with butt straps (hopefully later today!).

I marked out the grids for the panels on each sheet with them on a table to get them up at a bit more sensible height for working, then just butted them together on the floor.

I used a strip of packaging tape to make sure they didn't move, although that's probably a bit "belts and braces".

From there, it's easy to fair the curves across both sheets. The plans are very clear in terms of how to do this.

Here's hoping I get this one together a bit quicker than the canoe, or you'll be too old to use yours if you wait!:D

Cheers,

P
:D

bitingmidge

23rd December 2007, 01:41 PM

Day 2.
Magic! Another day I woke up!:D

I made the first cut, and in what seems something of a tradition for yours truly, made a mistake. Not a bad one, but it made me wonder why I made all those chalk marks to remind me where to stop the cut!

For those who haven’t yet made one of “my” layout/cutting tables, stop what you are doing and make one now. They make handling and cutting of sheet goods so easy, you’ll wonder why you never had one before. Just use a cheap ($20.00) set of folding legs, and any old timber. My top isn’t very flat anymore, and one day I’ll make another one, but this is more than ten years old and still working hard.

When cutting with a circular saw, I use a straight edge and set the blade so that it chops just below the sheet into the “sacrificial” top. I think Festo have something similar now! :)

If course with a jig saw, it will support both sides of the cut, and keep the sheet flat at the same time. Great stuff!

Oh, and the twelve year old el-cheapo jigsaw was wandering all over the place, and I decided to do something about it. It’s never been good, but since I only ever use it for cutting out boat panels I put up with it.

Well I couldn’t any more. I’ve always been peeved that the thing was so cheap that the blades never sat against the roller-guide, missed by a millimetre or so. I figured that it was just typical junk (B&D at the height of their cheap phase).

Anyway, after breaking a blade for reasons that I cannot fathom, I decided to pull the blasted thing apart to try to do something about it. The first body screw I undid, was.... the ADJUSTMENT screw for the roller guide!

Aaaarrrgghhh!

What a great jig saw it is now!

Pics:

The first cut and all’s going perfectly well. 

Oops! It’s pretty clear what I intended to do: Stop at the chalk line! No harm done this time, but a timely reminder to stay awake! 

This pic shows two things: Note how the pieces are just sitting there self-supported? That’s because of the Magic Table.   Notice also all the ghastly chipping. Sometimes this happens with Gaboon, and there are a few things that can be done to minimise it. Cut with the grain, use a finer blade (I have used a hacksaw blade in the past), I have also had some success by cutting through masking tape, or epoxy coating the ply before cutting, but in this case I know I’ve got cleats or chinelogs to go over the chipped bits, so I’m not too concerned. 

Here’s the table. You can see how easy it is and how it holds any shape for cutting. It’s a bit gnarled now, but it’s earned it’s keep many times over. It was built entirely from studs rejected from a building site because they were too twisted. I cut them down to about half size using my Skill-saw in the days when I had no machinery, and flattened them more or less with the only plane I had, a Stanley #4 

Speaking of Mr Stanley, he’s a very handy tool round boats, and is just the thing for planing cut plywood down to the line. Make sure it’s razor sharp, or your end grain ply shavings won’t look this good! 

While Mr Stanley is all you need, if you have a low angled block plane, you’ll probably find that better than anything else, specially if you have a slightly concave line to work to. I use the Stanley to do the big chewy bits, and the block plane to finish. They both need sharpening every couple of lengths of ply. The glue in the ply seems to be incredibly hard on the blades!  So here we have a side panel in need of just a shave more. I tend to use a thickish felt marker line so I can see it when cutting, leaving a bit more planing than necessary, then plane the line till there’s just a whisker of it left.

hairymick

23rd December 2007, 02:07 PM

Heya Midge,

some great tips there mate. I really like your magic table idea.

Re trimming down to the line (or 1/2 the pencil line) have you tried a belt sander? with the panel lying flat and using the sander on its side.:)

Works a treat for me.

To avoid the splinters in the gaboon, I have found that by cutting to about 3mm of the line and then trimming with the belt sander, most of the splintered bists are taken off.

A cordless circular saw is also very handy at this stage. Much faster than a jig saw and works real good on slow curves.:2tsup:

bitingmidge

23rd December 2007, 03:17 PM

Re trimming down to the line (or 1/2 the pencil line) have you tried a belt sander? with the panel lying flat and using the sander on its side.:)

Yep, Storer loves the belt sander too, but I'm a bit heavy handed with 'em!

To avoid the splinters in the gaboon, I have found that by cutting to about 3mm of the line and then trimming with the belt sander, most of the splintered bists are taken off.

Yep, I wander in the 2-3mm range too. Some of these ply sheets are really gnarly, I've got a couple of 10mm splinters! :oo:

A cordless circular saw is also very handy at this stage. Much faster than a jig saw and works real good on slow curves.:2tsup:

Yes indeed, the corded ones work ok as well.

I forgot to mention that so do plain old garden variety hand-saws are great, and if you have the time and patience, with a japanese pull saw you can pretty much cut on the line. No need for any of this fancy electronic stuff, you can build these boats with very basic hand tools.

Cheers,

P
:D

hairymick

24th December 2007, 12:12 PM

Sorry mate,

I meant no dis-respect. I was only trying to help.:-

bitingmidge

24th December 2007, 01:05 PM

None shown! As I said, heaps of people read these threads, if there's anything that can be added as an alternative or whatever, it becomes useful down the track.

There are many different ways of skinning a cat (or so I've heard), and here's the place to discuss 'em.

I'd be disappointed if you don't keep adding on the way through!

Cheers,
(and Merry Christmas)

P - whose stuffing round with family today and not building much boat at all! :no:

hairymick

24th December 2007, 01:41 PM

Thanks mate.:)

I am at bloody w@#k when I'd much rather be fitting the decks to Robins boat.

Not much getting done here today either.:D

Boatmik

25th December 2007, 08:28 AM

Sorry mate,

I meant no dis-respect. I was only trying to help.:-

Howdy Mick!

We KNOW!!!! And thankyou for that. As Midge says - part of this the purpose to share ideas and not just have only one point of view.

It does depend a lot on who I'm aiming the advice at.

I can do a good job with the belt sander - but many cannot.
I will do a crappy job with the circular saw - I've never been comfortable with them - but I have seen people use them fast and accurate!

So the way it works is that you mention the belt and circular - we remind people that they take a little bit of expertise and then people can choose the way they want to go!

Perfect, eh!?!

This is the perfect time for you to mention the tool alternatives for this section of the work too - so thanks hugely!

MIK

hairymick

25th December 2007, 10:36 PM

Thanks Mik,

Sometimes I forget that I am talking to some very experienced wood workers. I try to gear my posts as a help to those of us who may not be quite so accomplished.

I find trimming ply with a hand plane very difficult to do well and have a lot of respect for those who can use hand tools in this fashion. My information is based on what works for me is all.

I believe a very good build can be achieved with some pretty basic hand tools but I just don't have the skills necessary to do it.

Merry Christmas guys. Please be safe.

b.o.a.t.

26th December 2007, 12:15 AM

So less than $500.00 over three years isn't going to make an expensive boat, I've had the Gaco rowlocks for a couple of years ($25.00) and the oars are about half complete.:-

I reckon another hundred will see it painted and pretty.

Was that another hundred dollars ? Or another hundred years ? :U

enquiring minds & all that... :wink:
Merry Christmas
AJ

PhilW

26th December 2007, 09:59 PM

First time sending something on one of these so not sure what will turn up on the page. :? Just saw the cutting table and am totally impressed. :2tsup: In the process of building my first canoe (Eureka) and am having a ball. But. It is going really slowly as I measure 6 million times and try to then cut once. So far have made mistakes that are recoverable. Bought 2 Bunnings timber trestle tables as the saw horses were too low after stuffing up my back after days measuring and cutting the panels. (The physio is a lot richer). The tables are pretty good but need more height. So laying a grid of timber on top will lift and make cutting easier.

Up to the stage of fibreglass taping the outer hull joins and will then turn over and try to work out what Michael's instructions are telling me regarding the inwales. I usually go to bed with the plans as I have to reread them and then sleep over the explanations. (Diagrams and close up photos are saving me, in particular this forum) The instruction have been great it is just my ability to understand as a novice that is at fault.

The other big benefit of all this is that my wife thinks that I am a genius :rolleyes: being able to turn sheets of Gaboon into a canoe. Little does she know.

So all going to plan, hope to launch the canoe in a month or so. Pumistone Passage, Currimundi Lake and Maroochy River waits for us among others. :U.

One question though. I have spread 2 coats of epoxy on the sheets. Then 3 coats on the tape on the joins. The firreglass folk suggested that I dont varnish but use a paint on epoxy as the finish coat. (It doesn't yellow) Given this, would anyone know about the sanding aspect. Should Ii sand down the tape joins and then progressively fine sand the rest of the hull. I have pitting on parts of the hull from the original epoxy coats. My first attempt. (Does this make sense?) :?

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year folks.

Phil
Moffat Beach

bitingmidge

26th December 2007, 10:27 PM

Phil,

Send me a PM with your contact details and I'll give you a call, since we're almost neighbours.

Go to post #18 here:http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=28107&highlight=PDRacer&page=2 for a pic on how to trim the glass tape.

You will need to sand the epoxy, I assume by pitting you mean orange peel from the roller, or did you have little bubbles form?

There's no problem at all using a good quality clear over the epoxy. Use a spar varnish, or something like BoatCraft's clear waterbased poly (which I haven't used). I've had clear on my Goat Island Skiff, (kept under cover) over an epoxy with no inhibitors for 14 years, and no problems!

You are most welcome to have a site inspection if you need the evidence!

Cheers,

P

PhilW

26th December 2007, 10:57 PM

Go to post #18 here:http://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...PDRacer&page=2 (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=28107&highlight=PDRacer&page=2) for a pic on how to trim the glass tape.

You will need to sand the epoxy, I assume by pitting you mean orange peel from the roller, or did you have little bubbles form?
............................................
Thanks for the post. The effect is like pimples. Pitting implies craters which was a poor choice of words by me. Not sure what the correct term is. I feel that I will have to sand with the 180 paper and then a 270? grade. Knowing that a varnish is ok, will use that rather than a final epoxy. Will work out how to do a pm next and will send my contact. Would love to see a finished Eureka as it will help answer a lot of my questions. Thought the pictures of the guys from Bribie has been awesome. But it is a lot to live up to..sigh
Phil

hairymick

27th December 2007, 12:04 AM

G'day Phill and welcome aboard mate.

I haven't built one of Mik's superb boats yet but I think the fibreglassing techniques are pretty similar with most builds. There are lots of little tricks to be had along the way and this boat building caper can become very addictive.

If you have any questions, please don't be afraid to ask. You will probably recieve several answers and even more different ways to attack the problem you might have.

Be prepared for the ooh and ahs and all the questions when you launch your lovely new wooden boat. I dunno, there is just something "right" about building your own boat. even the advocates of the store bought fibreglass and, dare I say it here - gasp - plastic boats recognise this. :2tsup: regards,

Mick

b.o.a.t.

27th December 2007, 02:11 AM

One question though. I have spread 2 coats of epoxy on the sheets. Then 3 coats on the tape on the joins. The firreglass folk suggested that I dont varnish but use a paint on epoxy as the finish coat. (It doesn't yellow) Given this, would anyone know about the sanding aspect. Should Ii sand down the tape joins and then progressively fine sand the rest of the hull. I have pitting on parts of the hull from the original epoxy coats. My first attempt. (Does this make sense?) :?
Phil
Moffat Beach

G'day Phil
My take on your description is that the later coat of epoxy didn't like something on the surface of the previous coat & shrank back from it. Might have been anything from fingerprint oils to bug-droppings. Don't know if there is a 'proper' term for it. Only ways I have found to avoid them is absolute fanatical fastidiousness about keeping the previous coat clean when self-keying recoating - I use Bote-Cote so amine blush is minimised. Or equally fastidious sanding when delayed recoating. Absolutely every sq.mm must be keyed.

Epoxy works just fine as an undercoat/primer. Sand until you have an even surface, but don't cut through the epoxy into the glass. (a) cutting the glass fibres weakens the tensile strength of the glass & (b) if glass is exposed through the epoxy, water can be wicked into the lay-up, possibly as far as the underlying wood. Bad Karma, man. If needs be, add extra layer/s of epoxy to ensure you isolate the glass from the water. Marine epoxy is truly 99.999% water proof. Paint is not. Or so the epoxy makers & gurus say. You might also want to build the low spot at the edge of your glass tape with extra coats of epoxy to give a flat surface.

If you are going to clear coat, you are committing to keeping your boat under cover, or to annual sanding & recoating. Even with 10 coats of a good quality marine varnish, 15-18 months of direct sunlight is all it takes to cause it to flake & peel (in Adelaide, anyway). Our UV is an absolute killer. I LOVE the look of clear coated wood, and look for any excuse for having it. But am coming close to agreeing with a bloke named John Welsford - "my favourite varnish is white paint". I have no "under cover" to store my boats other than a polytarp. Cheap shop polytarps last about 10 months in Adelaide before the UV kills them. And 'cheap polytarps" ain't so cheap any more.

Hope this helps. Meanwhile I shall try to contain my insane jealousy about your location. My Olds live on Bribie, so I get up that way most years.
cheers
AJ

bitingmidge

27th December 2007, 08:07 AM

The 'pimples' sound to be like outgassing. What happens in our climate, with temperatures increasing during the day, is that the air trapped inside the timber (ply) expands as it warms, and bubbles to the surface.

This happens particularly if you are 'poxying in the morning or even early afternoon, and you are in a warmish shed.

There's an easy fix before you do it though. I leave the ply in the sun for a few minutes before taking them inside to coat. The reverse effect occurs, as the air contracts.

I had it badly on the Goat Island Skiff, which is how I learnt about it, but with a fair bit of sanding, it'll tidy up before the final coat.

Phil, check your PM's for a message from moi!

Cheers,

P
:D

bitingmidge

29th December 2007, 10:58 AM

Day 3. (five days later)

The madding crowds that descended for Christmas have departed, and while I miss my grandboy and his dog terribly, at least I have my shed back! We’ve currently got about 90 kph winds so there’s a bit of dust about, but at least I can get stuck in again.

I have a bulkhead to cut out, and butt straps to trim, then I’ll join the bits. I’ll put off epoxy work until later in the day I think, pretending that the wind will abate, which it won’t for a few days.

I’ve still got all the timber to finish sizing, so that should keep me occupied for an hour or two in the meantime.

Pics:

The cold light of day shows lack of progress in the shed. I’ve emptied the dust extractor bag, but the lack of progress on the ducting is a bit evident. (b) (a) is the timber scantling pile in its half-milled state and (c) the Eureka, waiting for some poxy action! 

All the ply bits ready to become useful. I’m always sort of bemused at how four sheets of ply breaks down into a few bits which glue together to become something completely different.

bitingmidge

29th December 2007, 11:02 PM

More Day 3.

I just couldn’t get any momentum, a bit like the Indian team batting really. I did get all the framing milled, and managed to scrounge a few bits of oregon from my stockpile which will work for the inwhale and gunwhale, although just to up the degree of difficulty a tad (and due to a shortage of likely bits of oregon), I’ll laminate the gunwhale in two bits.

I had to empty the DC bag again, so I guess that's a sign that something was happening.

Tomorrow we glue!

But this evening, I shaped the stem piece, which Michael describes as perhaps the most difficult piece of construction in the whole boat. That may be the case, I'm not sure, but follow my short little tutorial here, and you’ll have it done in less than half an hour of gentle hand plane work.

Pics:

Rather than using a 31x19 as called up in the plan, I start with a 25 x 50. I was going to drop it to 19 thick, but it got too late to think about firing up a machine, but there’s so little to do it doesn’t matter.
It’s rather important to keep the extra width though, if you want this to be easy, so if you have a piece 50 x 19 that’s fine.   
I have it sitting in the vice because it was where I could get the best shot of the markings. Again here I deviate from Mik’s suggestions, as I prefer to mark both sides identically initially, ending up (or starting if you prefer) with a tapered piece. In this case the taper is from 19 to 16mm as per plan. Note the carefully marked centreline. 

Here’s the big trick. Mark a line 31mm (the finished depth back from the front). That will leave you 19mm of waste, which is a good thing about now, because you can drive a screw through that bit, and fix it to a block which you can hold in your vice. If you don’t have a vice, don’t despair, you can fix it to a bit of MDF or even your kitchen bench if you like, but if you fix it to something the next bit will be a breeze. Note that the line isn’t clear in this shot, but the arrow points to where it is! (There’s a clearer shot coming up). Note also, the screws are WELL countersunk! 

When the first side is shaped correctly it should look something like this. Actually it should look exactly like this! 

I find it’s easier to get the right shape by working along the centreline first. The hatched bit shows the plane of the work underway. Once I’m down to the centre, I’ll then take the top off the chamfer, then finally plane full width. Note that it’s a sort of spiral (because I can’t find the right word) finished shape. 

Once one side’s done, flip it over, and screw it down again. Note the marks are visible in this photo.

Finally it’s done. All that’s left to do is to cut off the 19mm waste at the back of the piece, and I’ll do that with a hand saw in the morning. The flat piece will give something to hold it with right down to the last 50 mm or so, which will be trimmed off to length before fitting to the boat.

robhosailor

30th December 2007, 03:47 AM

Hi Bitingmidge,
All looks fine!
Good luck for your project!:U:U:U

Boatmik

30th December 2007, 07:26 AM

Midge ...

Deviating from the plans already ... you promised!!!

Nah - it is a good idea - there are lots of ways to any particular job on a boat - as the designer, I am happy if the RESULT is the same.

Methods will often change with the tools and skills available

If it adds weight or complication I don't like it in general.

Here the end result is pretty much the same as the original intention - so I am happy! Even if Midge promised no changes!!!

Best wishes
Michael.

bitingmidge

30th December 2007, 08:42 AM

He he... to be fair, it's not a deviation from the plans, just a different method of work!

I did promise though! :p:p

P
:D:D:D

bitingmidge

30th December 2007, 08:10 PM

Crikey it's been a long haul this Christmas break!

Some may have noticed the weather's been a bit ... inclement round these parts. That's meant that everyone who can't camp on Fraser Island has been popping round for a chat.

Today, I didn't dare break out the epoxy, and the wheelie bin's full and we've run out of garbage bags so I can't even empty the dust collector.

I don't know whether to be happy to catch up with all the old friends (it has been good), or grumpy because I haven't got anything done!

There's always tomorrow, and I've got a week till work beckons so I should have at least the hull together even if not painted!

Cheers till tomorrow,

P

PhilW

30th December 2007, 08:13 PM

Hi All
Finally got over the xmas rush of friends and family who think casue one lives at the beach, that it is a good place for holidays. And when you have some 40 family members in the extended family, it can get hectic at times. sigh...... Plus we are slowly being blown away by a low pressure system off the coast. That gets rid of the visitors.... Needless to say, the canoe has gone into hibernation for a week or so. Though I can smell its gradual completion. Perhaps it will be finished in the next 100 years or so. :? Just kidding.....:U

Really appreciate the replies and advice from everyone. Hairymick, AJ and P. Sorry that it has taken this long to reply but that is the nature of the silly season. Started on the bulkheads and taped them in. Then realised that I have to buy some portholes so will untape and cut out the holes for same. That is about how I work on this. 3 steps forward and 1 back. But I know that the next time I will be more proficient. But hot damn, it is great fun. Can't wait to finish it.

I think that I will sand the epoxy when I finish and use a marine varnish. The canoe will be in a sling under the roof in the carport so will only get to meet Mr Sun when we go exploring. I have only glassed the seams. Am using West 'something' epoxy. The 207 hardener does not 'blush' (think that this is the correct word.) Aren't I a mine of information. Must be an age thing.:oo:

Phil

bitingmidge

31st December 2007, 05:12 PM

Day 4.

Just a few hours again, still in the holiday mood, and so much wind and rain that if I open the garage door the back wall would get wet. I did sand some of the bits, and glued the panels together, oh, and scarfed all the long bits of timber.

I cut out the keel as well, and fixed a bit of hardwood for the bottom of it. I’ve been in two minds as to whether to actually screw it on later or not, but have decided not to. I’ll paint over it and let the paint wear off. If it ever needs replacing, and being HARD wood of the Aussie eucalypt variety, it probably won’t, then I’ll do something about it.

Pics:

Setting out the keel. It’s now cut and it’s protective hardwood strip glued on, pics when I can get some light into the shed.

The chine logs and part of the gunwhale laminate scarf joints. The hardwood in the centre is covered in tape to stop the epoxy sticking to it. I’ve kept them vertical, because after trying every other method, it’s the easiest for me to keep everything lined up, and needs only simple clamping. (Three per join) The joints look a little short in the pics, but they aren't, it's just an illusion caused by the squeeze out! :D

No-one ever mentions this, which is a fair indication that it’s completely unnecessary, but I find it useful to slightly chamfer about 2/3 of the ply thickness below butt straps. I think it helps to align the edges properly, and it’s really easy to ensure that you get a solid glue joint between the ply as well. I use packaging tape under the join (on the outside face) to hold it all together during the process, and to guard against leaks etc.

Here are the butt straps in place, you can see the brads which locate the corners, the filled join, which will later be covered by either the chine logs or the inwhale. Note just a tiny bit of squeeze out. I would have preferred a tiny bit more, but made the glue mix a bit stiff.

The joints with weights. Anything will do as long as you can keep them flat.

Cheers,

P

bitingmidge

1st January 2008, 02:36 PM

Day 5.

This weather is really getting a bit boring. I just can’t wait any longer or I’ll be back to work with two boats consuming every square inch of garage!

100% humidity and 28° don’t make for pleasant conditions when the shed’s got to be closed up because of the high winds! And since it’s been like that for over a week, it was time just to do it.

Firstly, those “pimples” that Phil spoke of: well there was just no way of warming the sheets first. Bunging them out in the rain doesn’t help. So after getting halfway through the first panel, I had to change tack, the thing was starting to look like it had a bad case of smallpox.

To make it worse, the wind has whipped up all manner of debris and spread that all over the wet epoxy - this is one of those stay in bed days!

I squeegeed the coat on very thinly, as thin as possible and still actually wetting the ply. This kept the visible damage down to a heap of tiny bubbles, rather than a bunch of small volcanoes, which should be OK after the next coat goes on a bit thicker. I’ll test a bit, and if there’s still bubbling happening, well I’ll just let it all go off, sand it, and coat it in better conditions.

Pics:

Bubbles caused by outgassing. They don’t look like much of a problem, and at this scale they aren’t, but imagine how unattractive a whole sheet of ply looks covered in them!  When the epoxy is on thicker, they actually look more like pimples as Phil described, and make it quite difficult to get a fair surface.
The coated bits of the main panels, at least I’ll be able to get the chine logs on tomorrow, with a bit more luck than I’ve been having of late! 
Yep, the Eureka got it’s final exterior coat as well, tomorrow I’ll roll her over and start on the top bits! She’ll be well and truly usable after that at least.

bitingmidge

1st January 2008, 07:29 PM

Michael reckons the secret to getting things done is to stop caring about the outcome. I’ll let him explain, but if he hadn’t left me with those words today would have been one of those get nothing done times! I'd have been so discouraged I think I'd have watched tele all afternoon.

I know I’ve whinged about it once or twice so far, but I’ll do it again for emphasis, and for the benefit of anyone who comes later worried that they don’t have the perfect building environment.

There was so much humidity, that for the first time ever I experienced clouding in the epoxy caused by tiny bubbles of moisture caught in the air in the roller. I’m pretty sure most of it will find its way to the surface, and to be safe I’ve basically kept the coats fairly thin, but it’s time to have a heart attack when you roll it on and can’t see through it!

Then when the squalls stop, despite the fact that it’s been raining on and off for a week, when it’s blowing at 40 to 60 kilometres per hour, every wood shaving and tree branch that’s not bolted down will come flying at wet epoxy. Trust me, I know about this stuff!

Tomorrow looks like being fun with sander day and even though the finish isn’t quite the glossy mirror we all strive for, it’ll be OK eventually.

Pics:

Milky bloom shows through in brush marks, but fortunately disappeared by the time it was all done. At first it was a terrible opaque beige. Quite distressing to watch really!
Interesting textured effects caused by a mix of high winds, sawdust, beach sand, and gum trees. I’m fairly sure that it’ll sand ok, but the dusty gritty bits might get interesting. No point in putting on a third coat though!
If I'd pretended it was built in anti-skid I'd almost get away with it!
Keel piece has a hardwood “sacrificial” bit on the bottom for its full length. I’m more concerned about the paulownia splitting than I am about the hardwood wearing through. It’s not my best piece of hardwood, but it’ll look ok once it’s properly bogged and sanded. The aft end of the keel is very close to its final shape, I’ll give it a poxy coat tonight and see what it looks like then!
Forward end of the keel. The building instructions say “round end”. Is this what you had in mind Mik?

hairymick

1st January 2008, 07:49 PM

G'day Midge,

Real sorry about the debris in your resin mate. Bloody heart breaking.

I am pretty lucky in that regard, the door to my boat shed faces North and all the trash has been just blowing past.

Are going to sheath this boat in fibre-glass? - or tape the seams.

If I may be so bold as to make a suggestion here.

If the boat was mine, I would be coating the bottom to the waterline with graphite enriched epoxy. It really increases scratch and abrasion resistance. I wouldn't build a boat without it now.

BTW, I am really enjoying your build mate.

bitingmidge

1st January 2008, 08:43 PM

Despite me carrying on like a big girl, it'll be OK.

It'll be taped, that's all. Now tell me about this graphite enriched epoxy... sounds messy.

P
:D

hairymick

2nd January 2008, 12:55 AM

Mate,

I use 20 percent graphite powder by volume to resin and apply 3 coats to the bottom of my boats with a foam roller.

Lightly sand it back smooth with wet & dry and the resin turns from coal black to grey. It is as hard as anything I have seen, very scratch resistant and makes the boat even more slippery through the water.

All my wood boats are done like this now. I don't have to worry about running them up the beach of over logs etc. I use and abuse my boats and the graphite allows for my rough hillbilly ways.

I think the Americans pioneered the idea for their flats boats, working over very shallow, rocky areas. The graphite stands up really well to this. If you like, I will create a thread on how to apply it for best results.

A tin of grahite powder cost less than 15 bucks and is a very good investment on a wood boat.

PhilW

2nd January 2008, 06:02 PM

Whats the bet that it rains soon. Sigh.... Apart from the fun of watching the kids on their surfboards getting creamed in the surf, methinks that nealry everyone on the Sunshine Coast is sick of the conditions; makes for interesting times working on the canoe. Finished glassing the seams on the outside of the hull and at the same time epoxied the bulkheads ready for fitting tomorrow. Really impresed with the paint tin gravity clamps and the graphite powder for the botom of the hull. What happens if you want to varnish? Or is this just for a painted hull?

Computer is just back up after crashing for a few days but my clever better half has got it up and running. wow....I had better stick to timber. Stay dry all.

Phil

Boatmik

2nd January 2008, 06:28 PM

Howdy Mick,

It is interesting to hear that the toughness is increased with the adding of graphite - I'll keep my ears open for more info on that.

The thing that you are doing that is better than most graphite applications is keeping it down to 25%. Most add a LOT of graphite assuming more is better - and the result is a soft flaky surface which damages easily.

I might do some tests to compare surfaces when I get up to Midges later this month.

While the surface toughness increase is useful there is no advantage at all in reducing drag.

Graphite works nicely when two surfaces rub over each other - the graphite flakes slide over each other greatly reducing friction.

However water behaves very differently. The first few layers of molecules stick to the boat surface strongly and don't move relative to the surface - there is no sliding movement.

As you move further from the surface the water moves faster and faster relative to the surface until it matches the speed the boat is going.

The water being carried along by the boat is termed the "boundary layer"

It is a few molecules thick at the front of the boat and gets thicker towards the back of the boat.

Graphite and Teflon surface materials appear from time to time in the boating game - and they are snake oil - they are on the market briefly then disappear without trace a year or so later. They fundamentally misunderstand how water actually behaves.

A secondary type of evidence is that high performance craft don't use these materials at all - from time to time someone will try it again but pretty quickly move back to a smooth conventional paint finish.

The only way of reducing drag is having a smooth surface - sanded and then polished with a non silicone polish. This is the surface that everyone from 18ft skiffs, America's cup boats and monster round the world multihulls use. If graphite or Teflon actually worked - they would all use it.

The problem with silicon is that the water repellancy means that it is very easy for bubbles to stick firmly to the bottom which, of course, increase surface roughness.

I think the additional toughness is an avenue worth considering, and the idea of using less graphite seems like a smart approach, but I would like to see it tested in an objective way. However the reduction of drag is not available.

Best wishes.

Michael

hairymick

2nd January 2008, 08:41 PM

Gday Mik,

Thank you for your well thought out response to my claims mate.

I bow to your greater knowledge re the drag thing through water.:U

re the toughness, I stand by my comments. 20% graphite powder by volume is what I use and I would encourage you to try it. I apply three coats to all of my boats. The mix sets up so hard, It takes dragging the boat over oysters to scratch through the black to the clear resin underneath. Yes, I have done it. running up on a andy beach with afuew stones - no problem. Dragging the boat over sand (short distance) no problem.

I paddle in the upper reaches of the Burrum and Mary river systems a fair bit. Both these waterways are heavily infested with water hyacinth (sp?) and all manner of surface weeds etc. The graphite on the bottom (seems ) to help when paddling through this stuff and my boats don't seem to get bogged so much in it.

bitingmidge

2nd January 2008, 09:55 PM

Day 5.

In the warm wet light of day, things aren’t so bad. After an hour or so of sanding the sheets look OK, it’s not worth posting a pic, just take my word for it OK?

I’ve coated both sides of the bulkheads, because I hate epoxying vertical surfaces in a finished boat, and it’s so much easier to spend a bit of time now getting the hard work done, than later.

It doesn’t seem like much progress for today, but the transom’s on it’s way, the chinelogs are are ready to glue on tomorrow too. But I did get the detail sanding on the Eureka finished and the remaining bare timber coated!

Tomorrow will be another easy day, rowboat wise, as pretty much all that I’ll be able to do will be glue all the structural bits on the bulkheads, and wait for the epoxy to go off.

All being well, on Friday, she’ll look like a boat. Not bad for seven half-days of pottering.

b.o.a.t.

3rd January 2008, 01:58 AM

Gday Mik,
re the toughness, I stand by my comments. 20% graphite powder by volume is what I use and I would encourage you to try it.

G'day
I wonder what effect the graphite has on the lack of UV resistance most epoxies have. I paint mine over the top of epoxy/glass to minimise maintenance.
cheers
AJ

Boatmik

3rd January 2008, 08:20 AM

Gday Mik,
SNIP

re the toughness, I stand by my comments. 20% graphite powder by volume is what I use and I would encourage you to try it.

SNIP

I certainly think it is worth trying - I'm not doubting you for a moment. I'm interested to find out more. Maybe even corroborate your results.

G'day
I wonder what effect the graphite has on the lack of UV resistance most epoxies have. I paint mine over the top of epoxy/glass to minimise maintenance.

Many other common plastics are degradeable by UV light as well and are stabilised by adding a pigment to prevent the UV going very deep. So I think graphite would have quite a large positive effect in this regard.

A second purpose is to prevent the UV getting to the wood. Whenever you see large flakes lifting off the wood surface it is because the UV deteriorates the timber surface and when it breaks down the coating will lift with it too. Graphite should prevent this as well.

I'd hesitate to quantify it in any way - don't expect it to protect a 50 footer from UV!!!! But the types of boats we are talking about which are mostly stored away from the sun I would expect it to be adequate (maybe much better than adequate).

MIK

hairymick

3rd January 2008, 08:49 AM

I certainly think it is worth trying - I'm not doubting you for a moment. I'm interested to find out more. Maybe even corroborate your results

No probs mate:)

If I remember correctly, I think you might be coming up this way soon.

If you would like, and I can get days off to co-incide, I could bring one of my boats down for you the drag over sand/paddle etc and see for your self.:) Sunshine Coast is only a couple of hours away.

Mate, this stuff really is worth investigating.

bitingmidge

5th January 2008, 07:13 PM

Mick, we'll see if we can arrange a get together in a week or two! :wink:

In the meantime, another couple of days of not much happening rowboat wise. My plan of spending a week being a boat builder was well and truly thwarted (no pun intended), by the weather, and the fact that we just happen to live in a place that all our friends visit this time of year.

I have just about got the Eureka (http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?p=656740#post656740) ready for varnishing, which will make pretty much everyone that counts round here very happy!

I had it in my mind that the rowboat was a project that needed to be finished to a deadline, which was somewhat impacting on my enjoyment, so I've relegated it to the same rank as all my other projects!

I do plan to keep moving on it during the evenings of the next week, and all being well may manage a test float the week after, but I think Australia Day may be the formal deadline for both boats!!

I'll start gluing structure onto the bulkheads tomorrow evening, and with a bit of luck we'll be ready to assemble in a few days time!

cheers,

P
:D:D:D

bitingmidge

13th January 2008, 08:03 PM

Just a small progress report:

In the last eight days, I've moved all the bits from one side of the garage to the other, and tonight I'll move them back again!

If I hadn't done that, there'd be nothing to report.

Just as well this is a hobby!

P
:D:D:D

bitingmidge

20th January 2008, 09:04 PM

During the week, Storer moved all the bits over the other side again, so he could do some work on the PDRacers.

Now I've got to move them back AGAIN! :rolleyes:

Stay tuned boys and girls, there's movement afoot!

P
:D

soundman

24th January 2008, 10:57 PM

Looks like testing carbon/ graphite loaded epoxy could be a woodies gathering, group exercise like breaking rocker's joints.

Speaking of rocker he would be the man to speak to about field applyable methods of assessing hardness, considering his background as a minerologist.

anyway back to the wjole graphite thing.

I've looked at the powder in the glasscraft catalogue They sell it under the west system brand & it is recomended to
improve durability
improve UV satbility

and

suposedly improve friction.....hmm

I can certainly see the first two benifits are a no brainer.....back plastics are always the most dirable and the most UV resistant and the hardest.
You just have to examine any plastic product that comes in various coulours.
Black will always be harder, Stiffer and last in the outdoors better.
In the vast majority of cases the black colour is some form of carbon.

The graphite may improve friction indirectly by allowing the epoxy to be polished easier and it my impart a portion of self polishing and may be even a short term and minor antifouling sort of property.

west system recomend up to 10%.

It is probly likly that past that the strenght of the resin may be effected. as anybody who has played with the stuff will know, a small amount of graphite goes an awfulll long way, especilay if it is finely ground.

cheers

just some thaughts

hairymick

25th January 2008, 07:17 AM

G'day Soundman,

I am no industrial chemist and have no knowledge of the colour thing.

the graphite enriched epoxy really does work. I paddle skinny water most of the time and this includes swampland that has been flooded by dams filling. There are lots of logs and tops of trees/branches just under the surface and my boats scrape over them often and as a matter of course.

At the worst, All I come out with are miner scuff marks in the graphite. Most times, not even that.

I believe the concept was develloped by flats boat fishermen inthe US for superior abrasion resistance when working their boats over oyster and barnicle encrusted rocks.

I have also done this and the stuff even stands up to this sort of abuse surprisingly well.

I would not build a wooden boat without putting this stuff on it. It really is that good.

By all means do all the tests you like. The stuff works and I stand by my original claims. I have even offered the use of my boats for the tests.

Regards,

Mick

soundman

25th January 2008, 12:08 PM

Oh I have absolutely no doubt that itimproves abrasion resistance and UV stability, & it will almost certainly be slipperier on hard surfaces.

As I mentioned I recon it will be sort of antifouling with regard to weed & mud & crud, which cany realy slow you down in the skinny fresh.

We HAVE to test it.....otherwise we wouldnt have anything to break at parties:D:D

I've admired you little boats both here and on the bass forum.
It's your post on the bass forum that have stired me up to build a pirogue or two

(Is pirogue building a disease like pen turning?)

A AA AAA AAAA AACHOO...... Oh NO .... I think I'm comming down with it.

Mine will be black on the bottom.

cheers

fxst

25th January 2008, 03:45 PM

Soundy you are in trouble its a contagious disease and worse (or better) there is no known cure.:D
10 years ago I built a small dinghy as a tender and then a dory cos I could and thought I had the disease beat :no: but then came a canoe and then repair a plastic snot canoe that I got cheap. :doh: Now I'm cured I said and just as I was recuperating alog came hairy with his kayak :oo: I'm doomed I tell yas I'm doomed :2tsup:
Pete

hairymick

25th January 2008, 10:55 PM

Thanks pete and Soundy, i didn't mean to sound so stiff there, sorry fellers.

You guys really "need" a pirogue too. I just don't understand why they are not more popular out here.

They make a great first build for blokes just getting into this stitch and glue caper and when done, are surprisingly good paddlecraft in skinny water.

and - of course, we all know what happens once we get some-one started on messing with ply and that lovely epoxy stuff, don't we:D

I am hopelessly addicted now and my work just fills in time between sawdust and epoxy fixes. there are a couple of beautiful Canadian Canoes in the prep stages and when they are done, Then, there is this really, really nice rowing skiff that I have my eyes on...... oh yeah, and another kayak - like I really need another kayak:B

bitingmidge

26th January 2008, 12:10 AM

I interrupt this hijack to explain why I havnen't been making too much progress. I've been playing you see. We've had our favourite designer Michael Storer (http://www.storerboatplans.com) staying over for a bit, and he was joined last weekend by Texan's Chuck "the Duck" and his lovely wife Sandra, both of Duckworks (http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/) internet magazine and boat building supplies fame, and Steve Wagstaff turned up to launch his new PDR so that meant playing!

Of course these could be on the PDRacer thread, but I'm making excuses here! :wink:

Pics:

1. So many boats, so little lawn!

2. Steve leaves shore for the first time in his beautiful Orange boat

3. Chuck waddles away in one of the original Oz PDRacers

4. Chuck and Steve at sea

5. Mik and Chuck preparing to take the ladies for a cruise

6. Boatmik is happiest wearing a lifejacket, and standing in sand with his trousers wet up to the knees.

cheers,

P (helping one of the kids move house tomorrow, sailing Monday, maybe gluing Sunday!)
:D:D

Boatmik

26th January 2008, 12:38 AM

My and some of Chuck's Pics are here on this page.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/boatmik/sets/72157603783850684/

Peter's rowboat is all cut up and joined to length in his garage.

We will probably have three PDRs (including Steve's new orange boat), the GIS, Two Eurekas and good time with some boating friends on Monday.

MIK

hairymick

26th January 2008, 07:13 AM

Sorry Midge,

Say g'day to Chuck & Sandra for me please.

bitingmidge

26th January 2008, 07:40 AM

Why sorry? Sorry if I gave you the impression you needed to be sorry!

Chuck and Sandra are currently camping in the wilds of NZ so communication will be a little on the scarce side, but I'm sure they fell your greeting!

cheers.

P
:D

hairymick

26th January 2008, 08:05 AM

Why sorry? Sorry if I gave you the impression you needed to be sorry!

Mate, I was just apologising for the threadjack.

I am a geezer, and sometimes I wander

bitingmidge

26th January 2008, 08:10 AM

Wandering's good! That's what gives this forum the element of discussion I reckon.

Specially when there's no boatbuilding happening!

P
:D:D:D

hairymick

26th January 2008, 08:16 AM

Mate,

Stay tuned,

bout to start on a 16.5' solo, wilderness tripping canoe.

i don't go into the wilderness much but I really like the lines and am feeling the need for an epoxy fix.:D

bitingmidge

5th February 2008, 11:15 PM

Hmm, another month gone, and I'm sitting here with a bung arm!

You know those ads about Sun Cancer? Gee they cut a big lump out of your shoulder if they find one!

Another week or two before I'm allowed to lift stuff with it apparently.

Roll on mid February!

P
:D:D

bitingmidge

15th February 2008, 11:13 AM

arbordg

16th February 2008, 04:54 PM

I've been to the Doc this morning, and the shoulder's good, and I'm clear to do stuff again!

I might even build some bulkheads over the weekend.

It's not as though I've been idle, I've completely updated the PDRacer (http://homepage.mac.com/peterhyndman/PDRinfo/) website, the Goat Island Skiff (http://homepage.mac.com/peterhyndman/GIS/) One, and pretty much finished the new Eureka Canoe (http://homepage.mac.com/peterhyndman/eureka/) one as well.

I'll even get the rowboat one online in week or two, but it won't be worth much till the things finished!

Cheers,

P

Peter,

Sorry to hear about your being layed up. You didn't say that was why you suddenly had time to do all the website work. Congrats on the recovery. So then... you'll have the boat done by the end of the month? Can't wait to hear the rowing report.

Cheers,
David Graybeal

"Before God we are all equally wise - and equally foolish" -- Albert Einstein

Boatmik

26th March 2008, 02:03 AM

Is it the end of the month already?

My gosh - how did that happen?

Boatmik

6th May 2008, 10:06 AM

Daddles

6th May 2008, 10:45 AM

Howdy all - just a note - Peter hasn't been able to do much because the shoulder problem became quite serious. So he has been on light duties only while it heals. The thread will be continued!

Michael

Rubbish, it's just turning into another Eureka Canoe :rolleyes:

[/cynic]

Richard
get well soon Midge :D

bitingmidge

6th May 2008, 12:59 PM

Rubbish, it's just turning into another Eureka Canoe :rolleyes:

get well soon Midge :D

Thanks Dadds!

Bloody Eureka Canoe! :D:D:D It's there taking up a car space in my garage, and the row boat bits are stacked against another wall... to say I'm going a bit stir crazy would be a reasonable understatment, but having a long history of not taking medical advice, this time I thought I would!

It'll probably be a few more weeks before I can be a bit productive I think, so you'll just have to wait!

Sad thing is that even if I could finish either boat, I wouldn't be able to use them!

Note to file: Don't leave any bits of paper on the floor of the shed if you think you might slip over on them! :rolleyes:

Cheers,

P

Daddles

6th May 2008, 01:07 PM

Note to file: Don't leave any bits of paper on the floor of the shed if you think you might slip over on them! :rolleyes:

Cheers,

P

That's what happened is it? Bummer. Look after it, shoulders are one joint you don't want mucking you about.

Richard

jmk89

6th May 2008, 01:17 PM

That's what happened is it? Bummer. Look after it, shoulders are one joint you don't want mucking you about.

Richard

Especially if you want to do any rowing!!

Get well soon, Midge

Boatmik

6th May 2008, 02:15 PM

He's not unwell. He is just a very naughty boy

(maybe it is time for a trip up north?)

Daddles

6th May 2008, 05:38 PM

He's not unwell. He is just a very naughty boy

(maybe it is time for a trip up north?)

Well someone has to build the boat and Midge is ... well ... 'unwell'.

Bring the bits back here and I'll put it together for you :wink: I'll even fix all Midge's mistakes :cool:

Richard

jmk89

6th May 2008, 06:04 PM

It's just as well Noah didn't take after Midge:D

Then again, Arthur Ransome wrote that Noah was the only boatbuilder who ever finished a job on time!!!!

Boatmik

6th May 2008, 07:13 PM

Timeframes for activities in the old testament seem to be as compressed as the very ripe old ages of the protagonists are extended.

MIK

m2c1Iw

9th July 2008, 09:28 PM

:priveyes:

Just looking to see if anything has happened:p

CCBB

28th August 2008, 10:43 AM

We just got a commission for a group of students to build the rowboat for a customer. Bought the plans today and look forward to building her. Someone else is interested in the GIS, though it is a big project for kids, so we will find the right group. Stay tuned, we'll probably have the kids use the forum as a way to reflect and promote their work.

Cheers,
Clint

Boatmik

28th August 2008, 10:47 AM

Howdy Clint,

Yours will probably be the build of the rowboat that progresses the fastest. I don't forsee any major problems as I am pretty careful - but there are probably some detail bits on the way through that would be good to hear about.

Also pics would be EXTREMELY gratefully received.

Michael

bitingmidge

28th August 2008, 03:51 PM

Gidday Clint!

Please keep adding to this thread. My build has stalled (not that anyone had noticed!) until a couple of tendons in my shoulders sort themselves out!

Cheers,

P:D

jmk89

28th August 2008, 05:06 PM

Gidday Clint!

Please keep adding to this thread. My build has stalled (not that anyone had noticed!) until a couple of tendons in my shoulders sort themselves out!

Cheers,

P:D

We would notice movement, it is hard to tell the diff between stalled and the usual glacial progress.:oo:

Runs back inside glass house....throwing stones won't do any good, the ply sheets for the PDR are up against all the wallls and the poly tarp is on the roof!!!:D

CCBB

29th August 2008, 02:18 AM

The rowboat will be a good lead up to having kids build a GIS!

It looks likely that a group will start this boat this fall, a group that we are starting at the Maine Advanced Technology Center which is all about composites training in the marine industry. We may try to design/build a carbon fiber set of outriggers for the boat. Any other associated composite projects we could do related to the boat? Maybe the middle thwart could be a flat composite panel? The boat itself is somewhat composite so we want to try to bridge between wood and pure composite construction. They will also infuse a hull of some sort, probably one of the canoe or dinghy molds they have there.

I'll keep everyone posted and let you know when kids will begin making posts under this screen name.

Cheers,
Clint