Layout Fluid

[m2c1Iw]

Hello All,
I am getting organised to make some plane floats and have a metalworking question. Is layout fluid still commonly used or has CNC taken over if not who retails it and what quantities.

I have searched fairly widely but can't find a supplier in Adelaide, but then I'm not sure who I should be asking. Ounce upona time I believe hardware stores stocked it but they look at you blankly when asked.

I guess a wide felt tip marker would be a suitable substitute.

Any advice appreciated.
Cheers Mike

[jmk89]

I guess an engineering supplies store may have it, but I bought a litre last year online from R S Components (http://www.rsaustralia.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?D=layout&Nr=AND%28avl%3aau%2csearchDiscon_au%3aN%29&Ntk=I18NAll&Nty=1&Ntt=layout&Dx=mode%20matchpartial&Ntx=mode%20matchpartial&N=0&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=0496287&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@1300314954.1199356206@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdgaddmlljlggdcefeceeldgondhgm.0&cacheID=auie)

[m2c1Iw]

Jeremy,
Thanks didn't think of R S. Wow liquid gold:oo:
Mike

[rlincolnh]

Hi Mike,

I haven't tried this myself, but it's supposed to be useful for marking out on *steel*. Dissolve a little (don't ask me how much, this is real backyard chemistry) in *very* dilute sulphuric acid (diluted battery acid). Paint on cleaned bare steel, and the copper plates out as a thin film that you can easily mark.

Don't ask me where you go from there if you eventually want to get rid of the copper. I'm not a chemist.

For simple work I just use a wide-tip felt pen.

Roger

[joe greiner]

Felt tip marker works satisfactorily. Also useful for blueprinting (to refine mating parts).

Joe

[Woodlee]

Hello All,
I am getting organised to make some plane floats and have a metalworking question. Is layout fluid still commonly used or has CNC taken over if not who retails it and what quantities.

I have searched fairly widely but can't find a supplier in Adelaide, but then I'm not sure who I should be asking. Ounce upona time I believe hardware stores stocked it but they look at you blankly when asked.

I guess a wide felt tip marker would be a suitable substitute.

Any advice appreciated.
Cheers Mike

Blackwoods have it in their catalogue ,made by Dy Mark and comes in a aerosol can .
I don't think it's as good as the stuff we used to mix up .(powder and metho)
I have been looking for some as well ,but also get blank looks when I ask for it, certainly can't get any here in town.

Kev.

[hux]

Whitelaw Machine Tools, Secam St Mansfield Qld stock and sell marking die.
I bought a litre for $@$20 mid 07.

Whitelaw Engineering and Machinery (http://www.whitelawmachinery.com.au/)

[Woodlee]

Jeremy,
Thanks didn't think of R S. Wow liquid gold:oo:
Mike



At $64.00 a litre they can shove it ,I'll stick to felt tip pens ,you can buy hundreds of them for that sort of loot.

Kev.

[Studley 2436]

we used to call it marking blue. *G* because it was blue. There are two types the one that dries out which is great for putting on a surface you are going to mark out on and the "soft" or "wet" one that doesn't dry and you smear over a surface before testing against a surface plate to see how flat it is.

Beaut stuff if you have a true surface if you want to see for instance how true the sole of a plane is.

Studley

[m2c1Iw]

Thanks everyone,
Yeh Studley many years ago bearing blue sat in my tool box not sure the apprentices have ever used it now:rolleyes:.
If a couple of local machine shops can't help me with a small quantity I'll give Whitelaws a try, failing that sweet talk the stationary clerk at work:D

Cheers Mike

[glock40sw]

G'day All.
I use the Dymark layout spray. Deep Blue that is fast drying and doesn't rub off too easily.

[Penpal]

I use Dy-Mark in a spray can.You can call 082319787 in Sth Australia,it is for use on concrete,bitumen,looks like head office is 072712222 in Qld.

Works for me Peter:2tsup:

[Woodlee]

we used to call it marking blue. *G* because it was blue. There are two types the one that dries out which is great for putting on a surface you are going to mark out on and the "soft" or "wet" one that doesn't dry and you smear over a surface before testing against a surface plate to see how flat it is.

Beaut stuff if you have a true surface if you want to see for instance how true the sole of a plane is.

Studley


Yep "marking blue" , we used to mix our own when I was an apprentice ,the place where I worked bought the powder and we had a five litre flagon that we mixed it in with metho.
It was also used for initiation ceremonies for new apprentices ,until a Mother came to work one day enquireing about her sons blue testicles.
The non drying stuff we called "bearing blue" ,used for marking the high spots on lathe beds when scraping flat. A small amount goes along way ,I still have acouple of tubes in my toolbox.

Kev.

[m2c1Iw]

Zeroing in on this stuff thanks to the info here


I use Dy-Mark in a spray can.

Thanks, found them they have an office not far from me. Don't have spray in stock but 250ml bottle in various colours for $5.95 that will do me:)


Yep "marking blue" , we used to mix our own when I was an apprentice ,the place where I worked bought the powder and we had a five litre flagon that we mixed it in with metho.
It was also used for initiation ceremonies for new apprentices ,until a Mother came to work one day enquireing about her sons blue testicles.
The non drying stuff we called "bearing blue" ,used for marking the high spots on lathe beds when scraping flat. A small amount goes along way ,I still have acouple of tubes in my toolbox.

Kev.

Mmmm...... brings back memories:rolleyes:. Tried the bearing blue (tube) in some meths it's not soluable:?

Cheers Mike

[jmk89]

you can get bearing blue from Repco or Auto One

[China]

As said above Dy-Mark is the place to get it anything from RS marked up, I've also seen the formula somewhere to make your own

[Woodlee]

As said above Dy-Mark is the place to get it anything from RS marked up, I've also seen the formula somewhere to make your own


China ,
If you ever find the formula ,please post it .
I'm sure a few here would be very appreciative ,and appoint you as the God of Marking Blue.

Kev

[Woodlee]

I use Dy-Mark in a spray can.You can call 082319787 in Sth Australia,it is for use on concrete,bitumen,looks like head office is 072712222 in Qld.

Works for me Peter:2tsup:


Bingo did a google and found the stuff
I see it comes in red ,black and also in white ,never ever seen it except in blue.
http://www.dymark.com.au/coatings/Product-details.aspx?product=788#industrysectors

Kev.

[China]

When I find the formula I will post it. the key word here is "find"

[Penpal]

Is made with Prussian Blue and Alcohol or Meths.
Dries up so is hard to store.Figure out your own mix,this how it is made.

Peter:2tsup:

[Fossil]

I have a couple of bottles of inkjet black refill ink. I wonder if that would work as well. I might try it out soon.

A word of advice when refilling inkjet cartridges... Don't do it!
Not worth the bother and mess. I buy bulk cartridges off ebay these days. Last effort..... got 18 cartridges, enough for 6 complete changes, for $25.00 delivered.

[Grahame Collins]

Truly guys,
There are some things which don't rate the effort of piddling around with.This is one of them.
Dy Mark in a 350 grm Spray can $8 or so. It lasts a long time.
Grahame

[China]

I agree with Grahame

[wm460]

Old thread I know but seen this supplier of LAYOUT FLUID STEEL BLUE

DYKEM LAYOUT FLUID 2oz - STEEL BLUE by BOARDSHOP AUSTRALIA (http://www.boardshop.com.au/servlet/the-188861/DYKEM-LAYOUT-FLUID-2oz/Detail)

$21.99 and free shipping in Aust

[nadroj]

I just bought a litre of Mark Out Stain for $16.50 from Polyshine-Ferro Finishing at Riverwood (Sydney) NSW.
[email protected]
An ex-TAFE metalwork teacher put me onto it, as I noticed he used some dark purple stain that was more effective than a marker pen.

Jordan

[mcostello]

I have some of the homemade copper plating solution and it works well.It was from The Home Shop Machinist forum and was said to take higher temperatures when grinding toolbits.