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Com_VC
20th January 2008, 01:18 PM
Hi,

Just wondering if anyone knows where I may find a spot weld drill bit? I've tried a few tool shops but haven't had much luck. I'm in Melbourne.

Thanks

Grahame Collins
20th January 2008, 03:31 PM
Hi Com VC,

Try a shop that sells panel and paint supplies.

There are two sorts apparently. I have the older type and it has a screw off reversible hole saw (about 6mm).Bought mine years ago,so no idea of the current value.

The other more expensive doover is for the spot welds on the newer and harder HSLA steels.

http://www.lorenz-distributors.com.au/catalog/index.php?cPath=24&osCsid=2c4c35f8023b3cbd38d3e6a35a520e1f

I would say you need the first one though ,the second will do the job but its expensive.

Update just found this one.
http://www.autotools.com.au/catalogue/product.php/10/125/1383
Cheers
Grahame

Metal Head
20th January 2008, 08:07 PM
Hi,

I wasn't aware that there were special tools for this purpose?:(

So I have always used a conventional drill bit to do the task.

Cheers
MH

Grahame Collins
20th January 2008, 08:18 PM
G day Metalhead

Its heaps faster than using an ordinary drill bit. The center pivot is spring loaded. One simply center pops a point on the spot weld ,applies the pivot ,pulls drill trigger and pushes.

Once you get the knack ,you find its easy to just drill out the first panel skin, leaving a button on the lower panel which is easily dressed off or alternately left as an alingnment for the same ( repaired ) panel to be placed back in position.

Others may disagree but I thought it was worth its weight in rocking horse poo.

The hole saw bit is threaded and reverse able when you wear out one face.

Grahame

kombiman
21st January 2008, 05:59 PM
You can get smaller ones from a Panel Shop Supplier (hello Yellow) that is a smaller very flat profile drill with a centre pin. They go for $20 or so but do a much smaller hole for auto stuff. 10mm is a big hole!

edit: like these, you can get 6mm and I think 5mm

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/8-00-MM-HSCO-SPOT-WELD-DRILLS-DORMER-welding_W0QQitemZ170184825442QQihZ007QQcategoryZ12578QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

peter_sm
21st January 2008, 08:29 PM
We use them at work on auto body restoration. They come in 6mm and 8mm from our panel beating supplies retailer. The good quality cobalt ones are up to $25 each. I can do a few hundred spot weld removals with one of these.

Grahame Collins
21st January 2008, 09:21 PM
. 10mm is a big hole!

Wow! sure is.

The eyesight is what is used to be and half the printing on some of those websites is too dammed small.

The cutter that I have somewhere is only 6mm diam.
My apologies, I assumed they all were that size. Bugger!

Grahame

pipeclay
22nd January 2008, 01:19 AM
Why dont you sharpen an ordinary twist drill for sheet metal,do any size you like as long as your grinding wheel is well dressed.

peter_sm
22nd January 2008, 07:06 PM
Why dont you sharpen an ordinary twist drill for sheet metal,do any size you like as long as your grinding wheel is well dressed.

The spot weld drill bit actually drills through the first layer of sheet metal without going through the second, to remove two sheets of panel steel that are spot welded together. The outcome is that you have the two panels apart, with one having holes where all of the spotwelds were, and the underlying panel is mostly untouched. This allows for you to then rejoin the panels later using MIG plug welding technique, or if a new panel is introduced, you can then electric resistance spot weld as per original.

Sharpening a standard drill to try and mimic this type of drill ends up in holes right through, and/ or non central removal of material, and/ or removal of material from the underlying panel, making the re welding techniques difficult, or with poor results.

kombiman
24th January 2008, 06:44 PM
The spot weld drill bit actually drills through the first layer of sheet metal without going through the second, to remove two sheets of panel steel that are spot welded together. The outcome is that you have the two panels apart, with one having holes where all of the spotwelds were, and the underlying panel is mostly untouched. This allows for you to then rejoin the panels later using MIG plug welding technique, or if a new panel is introduced, you can then electric resistance spot weld as per original.

Sharpening a standard drill to try and mimic this type of drill ends up in holes right through, and/ or non central removal of material, and/ or removal of material from the underlying panel, making the re welding techniques difficult, or with poor results.

^what he said. If you have a few to remove and you want a good job they make it a lot easier.

Grahame Collins
24th January 2008, 07:53 PM
Once you get the knack ,you find its easy to just drill out the first panel skin, leaving a button on the lower panel which is easily dressed off or alternately left as an alignment for the same ( repaired ) panel to be placed back in position.

I thought I described that as well.
But you are correct,the hand sharpened drill comes nowhere close to the efficiency and ease of use of the proper tool. If you have a heap of spot welds to cut ,you won't be sorry you got the right tool.

Grahame