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ACT Mal
8th February 2008, 10:10 PM
A couple of years ago I bought a Ryobi floor-standing drill press at the wood working show. It was the last they had so I took the floor model. :doh:

Ever since I put it in, there has been a slight "wobble" in the chuck. Basically, rather than spinning on a perfectly central vertical axis, the bit moves as if it is slightly off-centre (just under 1mm).

Thus, as I am bringing a brad point bit down onto a mark in the wood, the point appears slightly blurred, and I cannot accurately align it with the mark.

Also, the entry point is always slightly larger than the bit diameter since the bit spins off-centre (the "wobble" seems to correct itself, or cause fewer issues, once the bit is in the wood).

Is this problem with the chuck or the bit that the chuck goes into? How do I find out or work it out?:?:?

Does anyone even understand what I am trying to describe? :doh:

johnc
8th February 2008, 10:34 PM
Mine does the same, the chuck and spindle have been replaced under waranty which improved things a lot. There should be an adjustment screw that tightens the shaft to the pully if the problem is there. You can also knock the thing out then clean and reassemble if its just not fitting correctly. The one I have is a Sher which I think is Chinese for Rubbish, if I could get my hands on a quality M2 taper and chuck to try I'd see if it was still that, but I've given the thing up as a bad joke and learned to live with it.:~

Stuart
8th February 2008, 11:41 PM
You need some form of runout gauge

http://www.diracdelta.co.uk/science/source/d/i/dial%20indicator%20gauge/image001.jpg

and test the various components to find out which has the inaccuracy. Is it the chuck, the shaft that the chuck mounts on (often has a #2 morse taper), or higher up in the unit. Does removing the chuck and reseating it help?

If the error is in the chuck or the shaft, whichever is the problem is an easy replacement.
http://www.victornet.com/productimages/1027.jpg
http://www.axminster.co.uk/images/products/SLEEVE1_l.jpg
http://www.beautifuliron.com/images/MTchuckarbors.jpg

BobL
9th February 2008, 12:17 AM
Is this problem with the chuck or the bit that the chuck goes into? How do I find out or work it out?:?:?

Does anyone even understand what I am trying to describe? :doh:

The bit that the chuck jams into is called the morse taper (MT) and the bit the MT slides into is called the MT socket (MTS).

It could be either the internal bits of the Chuck itself, the MT or the MTS. If you can somehow firmly clamp a piece of metal or wood really close to these to give you a reference point ie the top of the chuck, somewhere on the MT and then MT and see if they wobble that might give you a hint as to where it is.

ravlord13
9th February 2008, 09:17 PM
g"day all,
I also am the SAD owner of a ryobi bench drill, Same problem and I have given up trying to get satisfaction from Ryobi or fix the dam thing.
When the chuck died ( drill under waranty - Chuck not covered):((
I tried to purchase a better chuck hoping this might fix the problem but could not find one the right taper.
I will watch this thread with interest as I am about to turn this drill into scrap metal.
Heres Hoping
Andrew

Skew ChiDAMN!!
9th February 2008, 11:01 PM
There is a thread on here [rummage, rummage] that covers this in pretty close detail. [rummage, rummage]

Not for the Ryobi specifically [rummage, rummage] but for truing up drill chucks on the MT/quill in general. [rummage, thump. scratches head.] You should find some useful info in it.

I know it's here somewhere, it'd be a few years old now. Can't seem to find it though... perhaps if you went looking?

Stuart
10th February 2008, 09:03 AM
You could always get a new morse taper at the same time, so long as the press itself uses a standard taper. Hare & Forbes sell them.

spokeshave
10th February 2008, 03:05 PM
g"day all,
I also am the SAD owner of a ryobi bench drill, Same problem

Must be a common problem with Ryobi (cheap) drill presses as mine does the same thing too. Very, very frustrating.:((

Mine seems to have all its runout in the chuck or MT. The spindle seems ok, although i have not run a micrometer on it yet. Dont need a mic on the chuck as the runout is so bad you can clearly see it by eye.

Have been meaning to replace the chuck for a while now but never seem to get round to it. A good quality replacement chuck will probably cost more than the press is worth!!!

Steven.

ravlord13
10th February 2008, 05:29 PM
Replaced the chuck,
Could only buy from RYObI as it is a propriety piece, not a standard taper.
Didn't help
I am going to buy a better press when I can justify it.

The replacement chuck was close to the price of the drill.
Never again a Ryobi.
Catch ya
Andrew

spokeshave
10th February 2008, 09:02 PM
Replaced the chuck,
Could only buy from RYObI as it is a propriety piece, not a standard taper.
Didn't help


Just dragged out the manual for my Ryobi pedestal drill press (model DP263) and it says the spindle takes a no.2 morse taper.

Will try ro run a micrometer on the spindle and if that ckecks out ok i will look into buying a new chuck.

Steven.

Grahame Collins
10th February 2008, 10:47 PM
My wife works for a company that does electrical tool repairs.It repairs does most well known brands except Ryobi.They gave Ryobi the flick 2 years ago because of the poor quality and lousy parts service.
Ryobi wouldn't deal with them unless a minimum order of $100 parts was purchased and then took there own sweet time in getting the bits there.

Adverse customer reaction every time there was a warranty claim or repair was sending the boss crazy.

The Ryobi specific parts that everyone else has as a standard size was fairly typical of how they did business.

No Ryobi for me
Grahame

Woodlee
12th February 2008, 12:11 AM
My wife works for a company that does electrical tool repairs.It repairs does most well known brands except Ryobi.They gave Ryobi the flick 2 years ago because of the poor quality and lousy parts service.
Ryobi wouldn't deal with them unless a minimum order of $100 parts was purchased and then took there own sweet time in getting the bits there.

Adverse customer reaction every time there was a warranty claim or repair was sending the boss crazy.

The Ryobi specific parts that everyone else has as a standard size was fairly typical of how they did business.

No Ryobi for me
Grahame

I have a Ryobi 1/3 Tradeline sheet sander around 24 years old , the rubber cushions under the vibrating plate disintergrated just last year ,I went to the local M10 and ordered four new ones ,not expecting to be able to get them for a tool this age , they arrived in a week.Sander is still going strong.
I also have a Ryobi Tradeline electric plane ,purchased the same time as the sander ,The only problem with this tool is the adjustment knob that sets the depth of cut vibrates loose and the plane adjusts it self while using it ,fortunately in the right direction ..The thread that is in the aluminium adjustable plate is worn and is s sloppy fit on the thread rod .
Easy fix , insert a heli coil.Planer still going strong .

I had a Ryobi Trade line 71/4 " circular saw this thing was very good no end float on motor shaft ,got used for every thing including pruning trees. The motor finally burnt out after a mate mounted it under a table and tried to rip timber slabs with it I replaced it with another Ryobi ,185 mm Ryobi circular saw purchased in the last 10 years or so , quality not too bad , motor has a bit of end float ,I just factor that in when cutting.

Ryobi 10" sliding compound saw ,Christmas 2006 present from SWMBO , well what can I say ? Biggest piece of crap I have ever come across .
Have to check every angle setting before cutting .Constantly having to adjust the stop for side swivel angle cuts ,then check for square when returning to up right position.
I guess for $299.00 ,I got what she paid for.
The only reason I still haven't thrown it in the dump is I dont want to get off side with SWMBO.

Ryobi certainly have dropped their quality standards over the years .
I dont think I will buy any more Ryobi power tools .The ones I have will not be replaced with the same brand when they die.

Kev

ACT Mal
12th February 2008, 06:13 AM
Thanks you to everyone who has offered assistance and advice - if only I had asked the question prior to buying.

I'm gonna run all of the tests suggested and see what comes of them.

As others have said though - the drill only cost me a couple of hundred dollars - I would be better off buying a new one.

I'll post my test results just for finality.

ravlord13
12th February 2008, 06:01 PM
Will Watch closely for your results, I'Ve nearly given up on mine.

Cheers Andrew

StanDrumz
13th July 2008, 03:28 PM
I purchased my benchtop 12" DP121L Ryobi drill press new from Home Depot. It is turning out to be one of the worst purchases I have ever made. Two of the plastic control handles literally crumbled in my hand as I tried to put them on. And, I have the same problem with wobble. I am extremely disappointed, and I have yet to be able to do anything that I purchased it for. This is the first Ryobi tool I have ever purchased, and it will be the last. A complete waste of time and money. And I will think long and hard before I ever purchase a tool from Home Depot again. :no:

malb
13th July 2008, 08:25 PM
A lot of the cheaper drill presses have a slight bellmouth in the spindle bore of the head casting. This is normally caused by either poor casting technique or machining the bore with an inadequate boring bar which springs or deflects as it works deeper into the bore. Ultimately, instead of getting a straight parallel bore you get a bore with a slight taper in it. To ensure that the quill fits at the middle of the bore, the ends are slightly oversize.

To test for this, feed the quill down until it is about 12mm from max extension, grip the chuck and try to wobble it with a circular motion. Any motion you can feel will always replect back to the bit when the drill is in use. If a unit seems OK at this point check at a number of points throughout the extension range.

The motion may not be obvious with the quill retracted or extended fully as in these conditions the stops employed will provide addition support to disguise it.

From my shopping experience over a few years, about 95% of the machines on display priced under about $400 have this problem. I have found three machines in the past 2 years that didn't, one of five at Carbi-Tec a month ago, one at a tool factor six months ago and one about 18 months ago.

Once you clear the hobby workshop range and get into the Industrial machinery class, the problem seems to disapear fairly quickly.

I would strongly reccommend to anyone considering buying a dp under about $500 to examine the unit being purchased before it leaves the store. Its a hassle, but its the only way to know what you are getting. If one unit of model x has the problem, it is extremely likely that all others of the model will as well, although the extent may vary. Therefore taking it back for exchange for another unit unit is unlikely to help.

gawdelpus
30th July 2008, 11:17 PM
Not sure if this info will help,but sometimes the drills are bent ,even high speed ones as the tang end is usually soft .or at least not hardened,hence if they spin in the chuck the usually get a burr or some other damage.If the spindle seems to run true enough then you may be able to shim the morse taper with some paper or thin brass shim ,you only put a bit about 1/4 wide and the length of the engaged part of the drill chuck morse taper. This of course goes on the opposite side to your runout,pushing the chuck further to one side to offset the runout.the taper should still hold ok for drilling if you seat it firmly in the spindle after you get the offset as close as you can.Hope that makes sense hehe. Good luck ! :U