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philk
24th December 2003, 02:33 PM
I have a reconditioned Dremel 16 Inch Variable Speed Scroll Saw 1680 and noticed that no matter what I do the blade is slightly tipped forward towards me. I discovered this after a lot of working making sure the blade was 90 degrees to the table left and right and still my work was coming out with a slight bevel that I didn’t want. I thought it was just my machine but I called Dremel and they told me that was the correct position for the blade. I also checked one at a local store and that one was the same. So my question is: is this really right? I thought that the blade needed to be straight up and down in all directions or am I just doing something wrong? Thanks for any clues or help!

-phil

Dean
24th December 2003, 04:03 PM
The blade is probably flexing a little while its cutting.
This can be ard to control, but you may need to slow down your feed rate to reduce blade flex, add a little more tension to the blade or perhaps the blade may be starting to go blunt and need replacing?

philk
25th December 2003, 01:11 AM
The blade is tipped forward with the machine off, not just while I am cutting. If i put a t-square up to the side of the blade it is fine, but if i put it in front of the blade it is at a slight angle, also i have noticed this same thing one i looked at in a store...so is this just wrong?

Dean
25th December 2003, 01:14 AM
Nope, I dont believe so. Mine is the same on my Delta SS.

philk
25th December 2003, 01:16 AM
So, the blade is supposed to be tipped slightly forward? So how do you keep from getting a slight bevel as you cut curves? I don't understand? Sorry I am kinda new to this, there must be something I am missing.....

Dean
25th December 2003, 01:24 AM
Do you mean a forward-back bevel or a left-right bevel?
What are you trying to make exactly?

philk
25th December 2003, 01:30 AM
the blade is tipped forward....if for example I cut a out a circle it ends up with a slight bevel instead of straight up and down and on thick stock the inside piece will not drop cleaning through the outside part.

is the blade on your saw tipped forward? are they all like that and there is just some technique i am missing?

Dean
25th December 2003, 01:45 AM
Mine is tipped forward.
I know what you are getting at but why not continue the cut into the section already cut at the beginning of the circle until the saw cuts all the way through the final part?

philk
25th December 2003, 01:54 AM
Ok, i must really be missing something here, I am sorry, but with the blade tipped forward and you cut out a circle how do you keep it from having a sight bevel? i want the sides to be straight up and down. Or puzzle pieces?

I am feeling really stupid I thought the whole point of the scroll saw was to have the blade pefectly perpenditular to the surface of the wood, unless you want to cut a bevel for an inlay or something. with any tip in the blade in any direction it seems to me that things just would not come out right.

Dean
25th December 2003, 02:12 AM
I think you mean a left/right bevel...
Like if you were to look at the work from the front view, you would see a cut like this:

/ or \


If so, thats is probably because of blade flex as mentioned above. It's hard to control with a scroll saw because the blades are so thin, but tighten up the tension, make sure you have good quality, sharp blades, and the right blade for the task! If you want perfect circles, you could either rough cut it with the scroll saw and disc sand it to round, or use a router with a circle cutting jig, or use a bandsaw with a circle cutting jig, or even for smaller circles, you could use a hole saw in a drill press (if you dont mind the hole it makes in the middle.

philk
25th December 2003, 02:28 AM
i am not really trying to cut circles, that is just an example, but with the blad tipped forward and i cut a circle i get a slight bevel, this is also a problem with cutting puzzle pieces or really anything not out out very thin stock.

the blade it tipped forward so i get a bevel anytime i cut anything other than a straight line. i must be missing something basic to scroll sawing....

fxst
25th December 2003, 01:20 PM
ok phil u lost me too :confused:

unless we can see what u mean it would be hard to help
I do a lot of 3d and thick puzzle work and dont have the result I think u are telling us about
the best tip I can give is to contact a scroller near u (nth Carolina US?) or try www.mikesworkshop.com
he has a few links that might get u a close contact
Pete
oh and Merry Christmas

philk
25th December 2003, 01:38 PM
Thanks everyone! i went to my local Woodcraft store and asked there and they explained it to me....honestly...i don't really understand but they told me it is right the way it is and showed me on one of their saws....i am also signing up for a scroll saw class so maybe i can talk to the instructor and figure this out.

thanks again,
-phil

Johnno
25th December 2003, 01:40 PM
philk, I'm not a regular scroller but I do have an old Ryobi that I use to cut the odd template, and I don't have your problem unless I force the workpiece sideways to the blade.

Look at a standard circular saw. This will always be at a receding angle to the workpiece but, provided that the sawblade is truly vertical you won't get a bevel cut. You will get a bevel if you force the workpiece across the blade. You can see the angle of that bevel if you pull the workpiece back before the cut is finished.

When you are cutting, imagine that you have a bandsaw rather than the very thin scrollsaw blade. With the bandsaw you always try to approach the workpiece to the blade so that the width of the blade continues the cutting line that you have drawn on the workpiece. Do this with your scroll saw and, provided that the blade is vertical to the width of the table you won't get a bevel.


Johnno

Woodgrub
8th January 2004, 12:45 AM
:confused:

Is this what you mean?

You mean that the blade is leaning FORWARD at the TOP of the blade when you view it standing in front of the Scroll Saw?

See the picture Attachment...

philk
8th January 2004, 01:52 AM
thanks! that image is exactly what i am talking about! After talking a very helpful person at my local woodcraft store and reading some other forums, i have found the problem.....ME!

the saw if fine, i need to try a different blade and lower my feed rate and try some thinner stock and that should fix the problem. i was really just failing to understand how the saw works and why it works the way it does.

thanks for all the help everyone!

-phil