router table query

[timber715]

I'm planning to make myself a router table, unfortunately there isn't a router plate available here in the Philippines. would it be possible to make a router table without the router plate? is there anyone with this kind of set-up that I can copy?

[joe greiner]

DIY the router plate too. Plastic food-cutting boards about 1/4 inch (6mm) thick should work. Also rigid chair mats about the same thickness. Or aluminium plate. Make the hole in the table large enough to drop the router through. Rebate the edge of the hole the same depth as the plate thickness. Cut the outside dimensions of the plate to fit. Remove the stock base plate from the router, and drill the new plate to match the attachment screws (CSK, flush with the top). Cut a center hole to pass the largest bit you expect to use, or drill/cut to mate with standard bushings. Sorry, no pics at hand, but Google [DIY router table], or search this forum, should provide some hints.

Joe

[dazzler]

If you use an extension collet you dont need to use a router plate.

see here;

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=28855&highlight=router+table

cheers

[Bob38S]

Thinking in a slightly different direction, I made my table top out of heavy gauge galvanised plate which I then topped with thick laminate. The router is clenched from below by using steel angle which fits the base in 4 places and attaches to bolts through the top. Using this idea I can get full cutting without the use of extension collets.

To give you an idea check this out from a previous thread,

www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?p=388291#post388291

Regards,
Bob

[timber715]

Can 1/4 acrylic hold to the weight of a router? this medium is avalable to me and should pose little problem in construction..

[echnidna]

I/8" aluminimum is suitable if adequately framed and supported

[woodbe]

Not sure, but I think there is some distinction between acrylic and the stuff the routerplates are made of. If I remember right, acrylic will warp over time, whilst the other stuff will not.

Search shows this: http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=63450

and http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=51159

woodbe.

[timber715]

thanks, woodbe for the fast reply, got myself a 7mm T6 alumimun plate. 10x12 inches. I hope that will suffice...

[Sawdust Maker]

You might want to check out Gifkins' website
here's a link to his design for a table, it doesn't use an insert
http://www.gifkins.com.au/Gifkins%20Router%20Table%202006%20version.pdf

I haven't made the table, but mean use the design for the top some day:)

[timber715]

I got this an aluminum plate 10 x 12 x 1/4 inch, had it milled to assure the straightness and squareness of the edges, had aa 1 1/2inch hole in the center and bore the mounting holes. unknowingly that I should have checked the way my router would mount it. turns out that bec of the mounting holes configuration, it made the on/off switch and adjusting lever closer to the front... :)
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1543.jpg

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1541.jpg

[fletty]

Hi timber715,
my home made 4mm thick aluminium router plate (which is a little thicker than 1/8") was made to take 2 light duty routers for my Gifkin dovetail jig. It is supported around the outside edge by a 20mm (3/4") rebate only and, so far, no problems with sag,
Fletty

[timber715]

Fletty,
thanks, that is a nice looking router table... care to post shots from other angles... would really help me as I am trying to finalize mine... thanks in advance.

[fletty]

Hi again timber715,
the following post gives a few more pics that may be of use although mine is specifically made to fit in the table saw extension and that mightn't suit your plans,
Fletty

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=65242

[timber715]

again thanks for the link Fletty... helps a lot... cheers.

[timber715]

Question please... why is the router plate mounted at the center of the table when it can be mounted closer to the front or back? what benefit does it have?
I'm about to cut my table for my router plate to fit and would like to know what is the ideal configuration and why?
first closer to the front...
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1546.jpg
next in the center...
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1544.jpg
and finally closer to the back...
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t130/timber715/IMG_1545.jpg

hope I can find answers... thanks in advance.

[timber715]

btw, the MDF board is 3/4 x 23 x 31 1/2 inches and the router plate is 12 x 10 inches.

[timber715]

Question please... why is the router plate mounted at the center of the table when it can be mounted closer to the front or back? what benefit does it have?
I'm about to cut my table for my router plate to fit and would like to know what is the ideal configuration and why?

I hope I can find answers regarding this matter.... :C

[fletty]

[quote=timber715;684827]Question please... why is the router plate mounted at the center of the table when it can be mounted closer to the front or back? what benefit does it have?


The location of the plate is a balancing act between not wanting to lean over too far BUT leaving enough space in front of the plate to fit a mitre track. If you are not going to include a mitre track then you can move the plate forward.
Fletty

[timber715]

fletty,
does this mean I can shorten the width of my table since it would serve me little to none? forgive my questions. I just want a better understanding why I should make my table 2x3ft or 1 1/2ft x 3... provided that i will be making a fence for it too.

[fletty]

It really depends on the work you are planning on doing. If you are going to rout sheet goods, MDF or ply, then you need the biggest table you can make.
If however you are mostly going to rout along a piece that is say a maximum 300mm (1') wide, then your table only needs to be 300mm (1') wide from one edge to the bit so that it is fully supported when you are routing an edge.
If I were you I wouldn't be reducing any more than you were originally going to build.
Fletty

[timber715]

If I were you I wouldn't be reducing any more than you were originally going to build.
Fletty

Nah, I dont intend to reduce it any, I just want to know if center mounting brings an advantage against the other configuration...
thanks

[joe greiner]

Aside from having enough table to support the workpiece, a central location (more or less) places the load of the router weight equally. Too close to one edge, and the table top may sag in that area. Also, pin routing (with overhead pin on a bridge or a large hinge) may demand more freedom in maneouvering the piece; a central location could facilitate that.

Joe

[timber715]

thanks joe, thats what I thought too. I'm off then to finish my table...
cheers

[MysticRiver]

I suspect router tables started with the notion of centering the router, but now we see the alternative of an offset from the center.

I can't think of any advantages to mounting the router closer to the left or right side, but there are some advantages it closer to the front of your table:

having the router closer to the front could mean less leaning over, or more control, for smaller pieces
if you are dealing with wide stock, having the router closer to the front gives you more support if you use it from the back (a good reason not to have the back against the wall)
the router is easier to access under the table if it is closer to the front
So... how MUCH of an offset? I plan to research the commercial offset tables to see what they did, but off hand it seems like if your table is 24 inches (610mm), which is common in USA, then center is 12 inches (305 mm), and I think a choice of about 8 inches (203mm) would be more convenient.

Any other thoughts on how much to offset the router from the center of the table?

[joe greiner]

From a structural engineering standpoint, point loads (a fictional idealisation, of course) should be within the "middle third" of a rectangular cross section or slab, to eliminate tension or uplift at the edges or corners. 24"/3 = 8" minimum from the front or back edge. Warping of the tabletop could also be a consideration, but not likely if the top is stiff enough.

Joe