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SAISAY
20th March 2008, 08:28 PM
Looks like my new benchtops will be delivered end next week, silver ash.
My new stove will be sitting right next to the benchtop and I have a large rectangular ceramic tile I would like to set into the benchtop, level with the surface so that I can just slide/put hot items directly onto it.
How will I make the, about, 6-8 mm deep cutout that I am going to need?
I want to retain the thickness of the benchtop, not cut a hole right through it.
TIA
Wolffie

weisyboy
20th March 2008, 08:34 PM
you should be able to rout it out verry easily.

SAISAY
20th March 2008, 09:02 PM
Which bit would I use?
A forstner bit?
How would I make the square corners?
Wolffie

Skew ChiDAMN!!
20th March 2008, 09:11 PM
Just an ordinary two-flute straight router bit to rout out the bulk of it - using straight edge as a fence to keep your cut straight - and a good, sharp chisel to square up the corners.

weisyboy
20th March 2008, 09:30 PM
just use the a streight router bit as skew said and clam a lump of wood to the top to keep you streight. you can then use a verry small bit to get the corners almost square and its a simple amtter of paring out the corner with a chissel.

ciscokid
20th March 2008, 09:40 PM
If it were me, I would make a template out of 1/4" hardboard. Clamp the template to the top where you want the cutout to be and use a bearing guided upturn spiral straight router bit. Leaves a nice flat bottom and the upturn spiral clears the chips nicely. Use a sharp chisel to clean up the corners. Easy. I've used this method before and feel more confident using a template.

artme
20th March 2008, 09:45 PM
Use a router as the others say but practice on some scrap first. That way you can get the exact depth you need to embed tile plus glue layer.
Also gives you a chance to practice setting of fence distances.

Sawdust Maker
20th March 2008, 10:33 PM
Do you really need to set the tile into the benchtop? Once you do it's permanent.
If you frame the tile you can move it to anywhere you like, as you like. Tis what I do.

SAISAY
20th March 2008, 10:45 PM
Do you really need to set the tile into the benchtop? Once you do it's permanent.
If you frame the tile you can move it to anywhere you like, as you like. Tis what I do.
I have several trivets I made from tiles I have framed but, since this one is about700 x 350 I thought it would look nice set into the benchtop so that I can slide pots directly onto it and also that it would be pretty heavy to shift around.
The one I want to use is about twice as long and same width as this one
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=69629&d=1206013404

les88
21st March 2008, 06:46 AM
Hi Wolffie,
I do mine the same as ciscokid, have you thought of the long term, getting tired of the tile pattern and what if it breaks or chips. I have large wooden cutting boards next to the stove these are about the same height of the rings so just slide the pot over.
les

SAISAY
21st March 2008, 12:23 PM
Hi Wolffie,
I do mine the same as ciscokid, have you thought of the long term, getting tired of the tile pattern and what if it breaks or chips. I have large wooden cutting boards next to the stove these are about the same height of the rings so just slide the pot over.
les
Hi les
I have been thinking about it and I think I will follow Ciscokid's recommendations
I think it will last my lifetime and, ig it chips or breaks I shall just have to put in another one :D
Just got the router bits for the raised panels and Lee doesn't like the profile :(( $75 down the drains :censored2:
I have been trying to buy another one from Timberline in USA and they will not ship to Australia :ranting2:
Wolffie

pal
21st March 2008, 04:24 PM
Hi wolfie try this place in the US http://routerbitworld.com/Raised-Panel-s/1035.htm

Regards

Pal

SAISAY
21st March 2008, 05:56 PM
Hi wolfie try this place in the US http://routerbitworld.com/Raised-Panel-s/1035.htm

Regards

Pal
Thanks Pal
Bits ordered and paid for, now for that blasted waiting time :rolleyes:
Wolffie

Different
21st March 2008, 06:28 PM
I have used most of the methods suggested but I usually freehand rout to within about 1 - 0.5mm of a line cut around the actual object to be inset.
I usually use a large perspex sub base on the router and work from one corner to the opposite one so as to always have enough support for the base.
I have used said method on both attached pieces

Good Luck

Ross