Taking too long!

[Andy Mac]

I posted this on a brewing forum but only one reply which isn't relevent, so I'll try here!
Another newbie stuff-up I think, first brew kit in 10yrs and I don't think all is well. I put down a Tooheys Draught from a boxed kit (fermenter, capper, can o'goo, sugar, everything) on the 7March and watched impatiently as it bubbled ever so slowly, sitting around 18-22degrees. Never got to a gallop like brews I seem to remember. Waiting for it to finally stop, but only a reduction in the airtrap activity. Today, 23March, finally made an SG reading and its 1.020, which doesn't seem finished to me?
Any pointers from someone who's been there? Should I trash it, or bottle it anyway, maybe try again later when I have elec. power to my brew shack for real temp control?!

Thanks,

[watson]

G'day Andy,
Sounds like it never really got going....maybe really old yeast.
What was the starting SG? 'cos 1.020 doesn't seem like it will have much alcohol in it.
Possible fixes are IMHO:
1. a good stir with a sterilised spoon, or
2. add a yeast starter

[Abug]

I'm no brewer but have you tried other forums like the one from a South Australian Site called Grumpys (http://www.grumpys.com.au/).

Someone there might be able to help.

Rik...

[Andy Mac]

Thanks watson and Abug,
I thought I checked the use-by date on the yeast, but that is a possibilty. I might give it a stir and put it out in the sun for a while! Maybe I put in too much water and diluted the alcohol?:? My bucket had no increments marked and the vat had 5l markings only?

Cheers,

[patty]

Yep that is way too long for a brew, usually "standard homebrew kits" supermaket stuff should take no more than 8 days to ferment!
You did take a SG when you put it down Andy Mac as Watson has asked?

impatiently as it bubbled ever so slowly, sitting around 18-22degrees. Never got to a gallop like brews I seem to remember. Waiting for it to finally stop, but only a reduction in the airtrap activity.

I am sure you know this is the ultimate sin committed by all Homebrewers never ever rely or take bubble movement in the airlock as a sign the brew is fermenting, the brew is fermented when you get two readings on your Hydrometer that are consistently the same over a period of 2 days in the last quarter of the brewing period that is usually the sign the brew is ready to bottle!!

The yeast may have went dormant if the brew dropped below the temp range but once the brew warms up again the yeast usually re-activates itself !
After being down for so long I wouldnt bother pitching another yeast I would bottle asap and hope for the best and bottle in plastic bottles not glass!!

[Bluegum]

My last brew at in the fermentor for 2.5 weeks and it only stopped fermenting after I sat it out side for a few hours. It was a James Squire amber ale clone. I thought it had finished after a week or so but every now and then a bubble would belch through the air lock. I tend to leave mine in the fermentor for about two weeks giving it time to ferment and settle. From there I bottle and let it sit for a few weeks to complete its second stage. I gave up using the hydrometer after the first few brews and some advice from a mate of mine just to leave it for the two weeks then bottle.

[jimmyh]

If you don't wish to tip out, and are sure that your reading of 1.020 is correct then I would definitely go out and buy a quality dried brewing yeast, such as Safale US05 and add it to the fermenter. And make a mental note to yourself: Do this every time you brew, don't rely on the stingy and stale yeast that comes under the lid.

[Andy Mac]

Well I bit the bullet and bottled it yesterday, when the young fella was asleep...the ideal window of opportunity. I checked the SG again to see if it had stabilised, and came up with 1015. I seem to think that's even worse (1020 before), so either this brew is doing something very odd, or I can't read the bl##dy thing correctly! The main worry is the bottles could explode, but surely 21 days is enough!!
I had a bit of a sip, as suggested in some forum, just to get a feeling for the brew, and reckon its exceedingly watery. Certainly hope it improves in the bottle...
I think I'll wait to do the next one (have a couple of Coopers cans in the cupboard) when I have some power and money for a heater pad. Bugger it all, this lark is supposed to keep me in beer now I'm unemployed, and its not working!:-

[Buzza]

Andy, get your Coopers going, the temperature will not be too cold just yet. I use the heater belt in the extreme cold only. Put your doubtful brew in a cupboard for a month, then start to sampkle them. You may be surprised to find it is okay. :)

On the down side, I think it may have still been gassing because a virus got into it. A bad yeast may have sent it off. Cleaning is very important. Cleanliness is next to Godliness and when that fermenter is open, bad yeasts will try to enter. :((

That being the case, your next brew will be on its way. :)

I use the stuff they sell to new parents for sterilising baby thingy's to cleanse my gear. :2tsup:

[watson]

G'day Andy,
Your local brew shop should sell Saflager yeast which works in the range 12º - 15º C until you get your heater system going.
My normal Coopers brew is,
I can Canadian Blonde
1KG light dry malt
Safale yeast. (slightly higher temp requirement)

Reason for the malt instead of sugar.....no cats pee smell in the brew.
I've attached a Saflager pdf file

[ernknot]

I posted this on a brewing forum but only one reply which isn't relevent, so I'll try here!
Another newbie stuff-up I think, first brew kit in 10yrs and I don't think all is well. I put down a Tooheys Draught from a boxed kit (fermenter, capper, can o'goo, sugar, everything) on the 7March and watched impatiently as it bubbled ever so slowly, sitting around 18-22degrees. Never got to a gallop like brews I seem to remember. Waiting for it to finally stop, but only a reduction in the airtrap activity. Today, 23March, finally made an SG reading and its 1.020, which doesn't seem finished to me?
Any pointers from someone who's been there? Should I trash it, or bottle it anyway, maybe try again later when I have elec. power to my brew shack for real temp control?!

Thanks,
If you don't think your brew is finished, put in a table spoon full of sugar to reactivate the fermenting process and see hoe this goes.

[Buzza]

So Andy Mac what did you eventually do with the slow brew?? :)

[Andy Mac]

Hi Buzza,
I bottled it mate, and after a few weeks I tried one or two! A bit early, minimal head but not too bad...by which I mean I have definitely drunk worse!!:- I reckon its pretty low alcohol though.

Cheers,

[watson]

:2tsup: :2tsup: Which means......if it tastes good.........you can drink more of it

[pommyphil]

I've recently had a couple of brews take ages to stop working, so O double steralized everything, extra thorough and have had no problems since. A wild yeast infection,and lack of care.

[Buzza]

Alls well then, if was off, it would taste bad and you would give it away to gardeners for snail bait. Pommyphil is right, cleanliness is next to Godliness, and you must move quickly to get your brew in and mixed, pitched and slam the lid on before the wild yeast float into the fermenter. Those bugga's are evrywhere, especially where beer has been spilled. Clean until there is no whiff of beer after brewing or bottling. Clean the fermenterand leave uoside down to drain as soon as possible after bottling. :2tsup:

[wellseasoned]

Did you take a gravity reading of the wort before fermentation? If yes, what was it?

[NOISY ONE]

Ive recently started brewing aswell and search the forums non-stop, best advice there is to forget the lid and airlock and put 2 layers of clingwrap over your fermenter after you have pitched your yeast and either use a large rubber band or the rubber seal ring from your lid and secure it with that. Then you can see what is going on with your brew, first day or two it will foam up alot which means the yeast is activated, than the follow few days will look like the top is covered with tiny little bubbles bubbling away, these then will slowly start to dissipitate and when there is no bubbles or bubbling, leave 2 days and bottle, I dont even bother with hydrometer anymore.

Also as others have mentioned, if your worried about your brew(care), buy a yeast that is suited to the type of beer you are brewing. If your brewing a lager it is best fermented in a temperature controlled fridge at 12c and use a lager yeast such as Saflager s-23. Ales are best produced at 15-24c and yeast such as Safale s-04 is best for that, if its a wheat style beer use Safale k-97 yeast also brewed at 15-24c.

Remember yeast loves higher temperatures, beer doesnt. Your brew will come out much nicer if you can brew it around 18-20c and the colder controlled temp for lagers.