Finishing off

[John Saxton]

This could be posted in the finishing forum but as its relative to carving I thought to post it here.

A question for Neil if I may or any carvers willing to respond?

A poser that has intrigued me for some time is what manner of application do you apply when putting a finish on a carving?

Do you use a spray type of finish or do you apply by brush and buff?

The reason for the query is that of a question of varying shapes/forms, crevices,and unusual designs that would make for awkward finishing to my mind particularly if applyng a number of finish's to build up the patina that you require.

I would imagine that the more intricate the work the more time spent getting the finish right.
Cheers http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif



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Johnno

[ubeaut]

Fair question Johnno. I usually employ a shellac and wax finish. Using brown shellac (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/flakes.html#sf1) for dark timbers and white (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/dewaxed.html) for white woods and the lighter coloured timbers. I prefer to use our Traditional Wax (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/trad.html) as it is non sticky and can be buffed to a beautiful patina without attracting dust or finger marks etc.

I usually apply a couple of weak coats of shellac with a fine bristle brush (sable, camel hair, etc) making sure to get a thin even coat on the work. Be careful not to get a build-up of shellac in undercuts, fine detailed or stippled work. To eradicate bubbles blow on them through a drinking straw (preferably one of the fat ones used for thick shakes etc.).

Use shellac that has been cut 50-50 with industrial metho.

The number of coats will depend on the type if carving and the amount of shine required but generally 2 will be more than enough. You will need to fine sand before applying the shellac then again after application. If the timber is closed grain then you could apply the wax using steel wool to help cut the surface whilst applying a thin coat of the wax. For open grained timber sand first then blow off excess dust and apply the wax with a clean soft rag. Allow to dry for a couple of minutes then buff with a clean cloth.

The wax can also be applied with a tooth brush &/or clean boot brush (Not a black bristle one) and buffed with another clean brush. Be careful not to bruise the carving with the wooden handle of the brush.

A number of carvers also use EEE (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/eee.htm) &/or Shellawax Cream (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/cream.html) either straight or cut to their own preference with Shellawax (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/shell.html)

Hope this helps a little.

Cheers - Neil http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif

PS Have tried some of the "socalled new" microcrystaline waxes. They offer a very good alternative to beeswax but so far I still haven't come across one that is as dry a finish as the Traditional Wax. They all have a much lower melting point than Trad so it stands to reason that they will all be stickier in the long run.

[This message has been edited by ubeaut (edited 02 January 2001).]

[RFNK]

Hooray! Hooray! Someone actually posted a message on the Woodcarving bulletin board!

[John Saxton]

Thank you Neil for your usual penchant for providing this BB with a wealth of info that may guide me and others in an appropriate direction rather than stumbling around in the dark.

Would there be a preference for a particular timber for carving here in Oz with the vast arrray available to us in quality hardwoods amongst carvers in our community or would there be a tendency to prefer exotics with a lesser density factor?

Some of the carvers tools I have seen employed have a highly polished edge to them,I would presume that they are achieving this with a buffing compound or a honing strop.

Can you also recommend any good books or videos as an adjunct to the topic for all us that have an interest in carving?

Cheers & TIA http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif

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Johnno