Veneer Types and Availability

[catbuilder]

Hi Guys

Been away for quite some time and now concentrating on building a new design trailer sailer by Rob Legg, named the 'Venture'.

I'm investigating whether to go with cold molded construction or whether to just go for WRC or Paulownia.

In regards to cold molded, Rob suggested using Coachwood or Maple veneers, 1/16th thick x 4 layers. Or using 3mm ply such as Gaboon x 3 layers. Any thoughts are welcome on the above. Also any other types that would be suitable, reasonably light weight, stable, and available.

Also can anyone drop any names of suppliers they have dealt or deal with, that I could get more information such as prices and availability.

Any help or suggestions would grately recieved.

Regards

Matt

[whitewood]

Matt
If you settle on Paulownia have a look at www.paulownia-timber-sales.com.au (http://www.paulownia-timber-sales.com.au). It's my site.
Whitewood

[Boatmik]

I wonder what Rob Legg thinks about strip planking.

IT is a case of swings and roundabouts.

Strip planking can use a simpler jig to build over.

You would save a heap of labour in using strip planking instead of veneer - as only one layer and the strips just bend into place - they don't need to be shaped at all - every strip is the same.

Fairing will be the same for both. Though a little easier on the inside with the cold moulding

But then there is the extra labour of glassing inside and out of the strip planked boat - though the cold moulded one may be glassed on the outside as well.

The interior and decks etc would be unchanged.

The other thing is that the timber can be easier to find and more reasonably priced than veneer is usually

Best wishes
Michael

[PAR]

I think molding a boat is about as light a method you can develop, but not especially back yard builder friendly, particularly compared to other methods. Strip planking is faster and very back yard builder friendly, but still a tedious affair. If I had to pick, I'd convert a molded build to Ashcroft. Yep, you still have to fit the veneers or lengths of plywood, but both the inner and outer layer get applied at the same time, so much time savings is had. In this example, instead of 4 diagonal layers of veneer, I'd use two 4mm layers.

[Boatmik]

Howdy PAR,

The designer - Rob Legg is a bit of a groundbreaker and his structures are quite minimal - beautiful work.

Do you think there is a compromise in strength in using two layers only? I'd be guessing it would probably be absolutely fine if glass was specified in the design. But there might be a reason he is suggesting more, thinner layers.

One thing that may have gone into PAR's consideration is that thin veneers are very fiddly - thicker ones are much easier to handle as they want to run fair.

I was writing more from a first time Amateur perspective - then strip planking is more foolproof - with the caveats above.

The fewer cold moulded layers you do the faster you can do it a PAR points out. But it might depend on what thickness veneers are available in Australia. They are getting harder and harder to find (unless someone has new leads ???)

However I think this is a good discussion to take back to the designer for further input. PAR's suggestion is a good one - of using fewer layers - particularly if the hull is glassed.

Or look at strip planking. You could look at using cedar for most of below the waterline in cedar and the topsides of paulownia. Paulownia is probably fine below the waterline too, but it is a new wood on the scene - so a bit of caution to start with. Paulownia would also save you some money over cedar and some weight might at least part compensate for the glass.

I'd suggest speaking to Rob about these options.

Michael

[catbuilder]

Thanks Gentlemen

I will talk with Rob again, he has indicated it would be suitable for strip planking, and at the moment it is looking like the way to go.

Whitewood I have looked at your site, a few times in fact, I will have some questions for you in near future.

Thanks Again

Matt