How much sanding do you do??

[mobjack68]

I have been reading posts where folks talk about using wet/dry silicon carbide past the 600 range. I have been doing lathe work since high school (early 70's). Lots of different kinds of wood including exotics with varying amounts of natural oils, was encouraged to try different finishes from the very quick dry to thermosets (slowed a lathe down to 10 rpm and coated a wooden bowl with clear cast polyester resin, added 3 coats with sanding between, finish was almost 3/16" about 5 cm thick when finished......looked like the wood center had been "injected" into the middle of a plastic bowl....whatta hoot!..) Question...is it really necessary to spend that much time/energy sanding to such a fine grit??

[littlebuddha]

time/energy sanding to such a fine grit

My turning go to 500 600 and some to 1200 maybe a little more depends on what it is, if its exhibition then it is higher than the 600 1200 but im not sure where you get time and energy from unless you have very poor tool marks and have to start to with very low grit.
Everyone to there own, the simple thing is what it looks like to you once you have finished.
When you are useing the finer grades it does not take long, good quality sanding media helps if you use cheap stuff it is a false saving and is maybe where you find that energy is used, and not the media. LB

[OGYT]

Agree with LB. Depends on the piece. But when you're finished with a piece, if you look close, and can see any tooling/sanding marks... you didn't sand it enough. A good friend of mine says when you're through sanding... sand just a little bit more. :D
Tool marks do make a difference. I used to (normally) have to start with 60 grit. Then 80. Then 120. Now most of the time I start sanding with 180 grit, and once in a great while, 220.
Someone has said, "Use sandpaper like someone else is paying for it." I agree.

[oldiephred]

I find that , quit often after sanding with 220 or 320 (good quality paper) it is helpful to use the end grain of a piece wood being turned to go over the piece. I smothes the the surface well. Some use the cuttings from the piece. I also think that fine sanding after the first coat of finish is as important as the pre finish work.

[BobL]

For me, fine sanding is about being able to more easily see the grain and fiddle before applying any finish. That way I can more easily see the tool and other scratches on top of the grain before applying the finish. (My eyes are poor with really fine detail and it's often only when I photograph them and enlarge the photos on the computer that I can what's going on)

An example is the fiddle in this BLO oil finished redgum chisel handle. While still not a perfectly smooth finish, the threshold grit for starting to see the fiddle standing out any overlaying marks and scratches for this timber was about 400 grit, and at 800 they stood out even more.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=71914&stc=1&d=1209077537

[eazis1]

what make of sanding paper do most pros use?

[TTIT]

I have been reading posts where folks talk about using wet/dry silicon carbide past the 600 range. ........... Question...is it really necessary to spend that much time/energy sanding to such a fine grit??IMHO, no it is not necessary on most commercial species of timber, particularly the soft timbers you have ready access to in the USA .... BUT, on hard timbers like the desert timbers I usually work with here in Oz, each finer grit you use pays for itself by bringing out the natural color and sheen of the timber.
For example, I don't bother sanding past 600 on Red cedar or Camphor 'cos it just doesn't improve anything. On something like Dead-Finish or Gidgee however, sanding to 1500 gives a satin finish that virtually needs no finish - follow that with a rub with some EEE and you get a natural gloss finish.

Insert "getting down off my soapbox" smiley here!:U

[mick61]

I don`t know about pro`s but I use hermes.
Mick:D

[mobjack68]

IMHO, no it is not necessary on most commercial species of timber, particularly the soft timbers you have ready access to in the USA .... BUT, on hard timbers like the desert timbers I usually work with here in Oz, each finer grit you use pays for itself by bringing out the natural color and sheen of the timber.

Insert "getting down off my soapbox" smiley here!:U

I know that most "exotics" are called that for a reason and I'm not sure that I ever really considered how "much" harder your local stuff is than my local stuff. About the hardest local for me is White Oak , maybe Locust/Hickory, but I have been very successful with scratch/tool mark removal without having to get past 280 grit....I knew there was a good reason I like hanging out here....you guys are smart!!
I wish there was an economical way to trade "my stuff" for "your stuff"....