PDR Build in the Philippines.

[Cybernaught]

Wood has been butchered and epoxy spread here on Pangangan island in Bohol, Philippines.

From this:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h94/Hunter1945/PDRmaterial.jpg

To this:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h94/Hunter1945/Hullparts1.jpg

To this:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h94/Hunter1945/DIduck3.jpg

In two and a half days. Here are the particulars.

She's an Oz version of course. Her name is "The Ducklaration of Independence" but I call her "DI Duck" for short. (Dee-Eye-Duc)
She's currently screwed but not glued in order to test the fit and make sure everything mates up OK.

The boat will have full length side air boxes and an offset daggerboard to keep the cockpit clear. There will be two external skids for stiffening along the bottom as per Michaels recommendation. Everything else will be as close to plan as I can get it.

I sent an email to Shorty and hope to have my hull number within a week or two. To the best of my knowledge, DI Duck will be the second PDR in the Philippines. Dan is building the first one in Davao Mindanao.

Time to go to work. There's boat building to be done. :U
I'll post updates.

CN

[Daddles]

Oi, he's building a BOAT :oo:

Richard

[bitingmidge]

You Ripper CN!

And I like the fact that the timeframe is less than... well ... normal! :wink:

cheers,

P
:D:D:D

[m2c1Iw]

Hmmm.......took me two months to get that far:(.

Hope I'll keep shorty busy this week too :D but somehow I think you will beat me to the water.:2tsup:

Cheers
Mike

[Daddles]

And I like the fact that the timeframe is less than... well ... normal! :wink:

You mean 'less than midge-like' don't you? How does that equate with 'normal', even by MY standards :oo:

Richard
building something the Mik forgot he'd designed :rolleyes:

[Daddles]

Hmmm.......took me two months to get that far:(.

Two months eh? It takes a mere weekend to build a PDR ... sounds like you're well within the 'normal' time frame :rolleyes:

Richard

[dognest]

And all this for less than the cost of a normal night out!

Now I want to build one too but it's probably going to take me two months to find enough loose change behind the couch so I can afford the plans.

CN, looking forward to watching your build and seeing your modifications. :2tsup:

[Cybernaught]

This weekend I had more visitors than I have had in the past 3 months. Saturday it was Bill from Australia for a nice chat then Ken and Annie came by for a while in the afternoon. Sunday Bill came back over with Bob and his wife. They left just after noon and then Thiery and his wife came not 10 minutes later. Just before they left at around 2pm Bob and Adeline came back for another visit and left just before dark. I turned the light on in the Garage and Boy showed up to tell me about all the happenings in the Mayor's office last week.

All this company slowed down the build and I was only able to get the sides, transoms and front-deck bulkhead epoxied together and the mast step built. I am using a stainless pin for the mast step made from the original rudder post of the pump boat.

Here are the mast step pieces.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h94/Hunter1945/MastStep1.jpg

Here is the assembly epoxied up.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h94/Hunter1945/MastStep2.jpg

I wanted to get the assembly installed and the bottom epoxied on tomorrow but my better half informs me that we have to go to Thierry and Marylie's house tomorrow. He's here from Tahiti where he works for the Frech government as an air traffic controller. Last chance to visit for a while. When there's nothing needing doing we never see anyone at all. I may have to pull an all nighter.


CN, looking forward to watching your build and seeing your modifications.There won't be many mods. I ran the changes I want to make past Michael and side tanks and moving the daggerboard is about it. Bamboo spars first then Oz style when I can get to Cebu for some FG cloth and resin. There's really no hurry but I'm just anxious to sail it and see how she does.

CN

[Boatmik]

Excellent work CN,

Nice to see it going together!

Any idea of cost so far? I think Philippines prices will make everyone here VERY jealous!

MIK

[Cybernaught]

Any idea of cost so far?For two sheets of 3/16", one sheet 1/4" ply and the 8 pieces of 1" x 1" x 12" That it will take to complete the hull I have spent 1800.00 pesos. Thats about $42.75 USD. I have more than enough material on hand to do the rest of the build left over from other projects. I will go with bamboo spars first and less than perfectly shaped foils to get her in the water fast. The bamboo I have on hand is enough for both a sprit and balanced lug. I paid 150 pesos the bamboo, or $3.56 USD The tarp I have cost about 180 pesos or $4.28 USD Enough for either sail but not both. Metal for hardware and the pulleys I have on hand. I may have enough paint but Edna let our helper use some of it painting grandma and grandpa's house so I may have to buy more. I'm not sure yet. The least I can get away with will about $50.59 USD and it may go as high as $60.00 USD. Actually the bamboo and the tarp were bought for another project that I never did so you can knock off the $3.56 and $4.28 because that money was already spent whether or not I built the PDR. In that scenario I would have $42.75 USD in new money spent solely on this build.

What does that work out to? About the cost of one Harken block?

The bamboo and tarp were for a balanced lug for Aquila, my bobtailed and nosejobbed 16 foot decked sailing canoe that is now a skinny 9' pram. The old 42 square foot Gunter pulls her just fine. I decided 60 squares would be too much for her narrow beam. For "The Ducklartion of Independence" I'll start out with the 80 square foot spritsail. then work on the Oz foils and spars for the 90 square foot balanced lug.

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h94/Hunter1945/Sailing1-1.jpg
Aquila underway, pointing up a bit with the Gunter, in light air.

CN

[Cybernaught]

DI is hull # 218.

Just got an email from Shorty. That was fast. About 4 days.

CN

[Cybernaught]

Week #1 progress report:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h94/Hunter1945/DIduck6.jpg

CN

[Cybernaught]

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h94/Hunter1945/DI_126.jpg


http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h94/Hunter1945/DI_127.jpg

Water test in a day or so.

CN

[m2c1Iw]

Cool, man eating Puddle Duck:D.

Look forward to hear how she performs CN, interesting mods a very spacious layout.

Cheers
Mike

[bitingmidge]

Scarey!

Great job, great paint job too!

P
:D:D:D

[Boatmik]

That is one scary looking PUDDLE DUCK!

What sort of duck has teeth!

[Cybernaught]

Hey Mik,

" What sort of duck has teeth!"
My sort of Duck!

You and Bitingmidge are the ones who came up with the video showing the PDR closing up behind the Nutshell Pram with the "Jaw's" music in the background. I said before that that gave me an instant flash of the paint scheme.

You guys are responsible for the paint job! :U

I'll report on the performance after the first sail but it won't be anything stellar coz I'll be using Aquilia's 42 square foot main. Just to get her bottom wet.

CN

[Boatmik]

BTW Cybernaught - your's is the first that has used the OZ plans to make the side centreboard version I had it my head.

Looks really great - lots of space. Maybe this is the ideal cruising Duck with enough performance to race successfully!

The leeboard will be a bit slower than the centreboard - but keeping it in from the side (as a couple of the US boats have done as well) keeps the disturbed flows around the leeboard and the chine from interfering with each other and making a big draggy mess.

BTW - what have you done with the transom - I can't see the normal framing? Have you put it on the outside or have you covered it over on the inside with another piece of ply?

I probably wouldn't have gone for as many hatches - but nicely achieved!

Part of the purpose of doing the OZ plans was to give people a boost up in their own ideas. So glad to see you find your own solution but keeping the useful bits of the OZ. It was always conceived as a platform for change.

Looks fabby!

Michael

[Boatmik]

Hey Mik,

" What sort of duck has teeth!"
My sort of Duck!

I'll report on the performance after the first sail but it won't be anything stellar coz I'll be using Aquilia's 42 square foot main. Just to get her bottom wet.

CN

Howdy CN,

The sail area will be WAAAAY to far forward - so if you can put a spacer between the stub mast in the boat and the Yard (it is almost a tabernacle and mast isn't it?) to rake the rig back heavily then you might be able to get it up to windward OK. But I wouldn't count on it. Will go downwind just fine.

So be a bit precautionary with your sailing direction - don't want you blowing toward America in the Tradewinds!

MIK

[Cybernaught]

Hi Mik,

You are right in your assumption about the transom on DI. (#218)
You said:
"BTW - what have you done with the transom - I can't see the normal framing? Have you put it on the outside or have you covered it over on the inside with another piece of ply?"

I sheeted the inside with a some 3/16th Because I wanted a cleaner look. I thought a lot about it and decided the asthetics would outweigh the weight gain.

I'm also probably going to go with a version of Tim Cleary's 2 x 4 mast. I see you have been commenting on it a bit with him on the PDRacer forum. If I go to Cebu and buy the epoxy resin and some cloth for the Oz mast the cost of the material plus the trip for Edna and I will possibly more than double my PDR cost. I have the 2x2s for the mast and spars. I'm going to do the 14 foot take apart with the extension to 16.5 foot so I can use your Lug or your Sprit sail. It will be a 3 pice mast and I think I can plane it to make it bendy enough to help de-power the sail in the gusts with the longer version for the sprit.

Short version:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h94/Hunter1945/192_mastdiagramfa.jpg

This longer version has a 4 foot extension to the first mast as far as I can tell.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h94/Hunter1945/374_Mast.jpg

My thinking is to use a 1 foot filler piece bolted into the top of the first two sections of mast when using the shorter version for the Lug. I'll mod the bottom to fit into a short piece of 2"pvc pipe that will have a notch in the bottom to filt the pin on the mast step and add a bit of strength to the bottom of the mast.

Since you have had ideas about a cruising Oz PDR with racing capability and I'm heading somewhat in that dirrection I'd be happy to try out any ideas you may have along those lines, if I can, and then give you the feedback.

Your suggestions concerning my moving the DB into the airbox and adding the two stiffeners really gave me the open cockpit that I wanted. I'm very happy with the results so far. Of course the proof of the pudding is in the eating. I have started on the Oz style rudder head and tiller and I made my hinge out of SS. It's not really gudgeons and pintles in the style I'm using. I have pictures but they didn't come out very good so I'll take more and post then later. Right now it's 4am and I've been up since 1. Grandma had nightmares and the local Wokwok came over with Voodo oil and painted crosses on her with it. Don't ask! After that I was awake. :? I think I'll goback to bed till the carpenters get here and go back to work on the ceilings.

CN

[Boatmik]

Howdy CN,

The two part mast is rubbish. I think it will break (I won't say that to Tim - because he is an avid experimenter who enjoys the process) and doesn't have the right bend characteristics for the sail - so you lose the performance.

It will also be considerably heavier as it is double thickness for a good part of its length.

The boat will be slower in all winds and will be overpowered easily in strong winds.

I would strongly recommend the original mast.

If you want to build a solid one I can work out what size to get the right bend characteristic that will make the sail work the best.

Best wishes
Michael

[Boatmik]

You can use the glue that you have used for the rest of the boat probably for the OZ mast and there are cloth alternatives for the small areas that need to be protected from splitting or bruising.

What glue have you used so far?

Michael.

Michael

[Cybernaught]

"What glue have you used so far?"

I'm using the two part epoxy that already has some filler in it. You know the one you don't like. That's all thats available here. We don't even have Elmer's Glue. We don't have any of the WPB glues anywhere in the provinces. I have used this on 3 boats so far with no problem. The PDR is #4.

What kind of materials can be substituted for FG cloth? I'm curious. I was thinking where splitting could be a problem of using nylong fishing line and doing a wrap like the siezing you can do on the end of a rope and then over-coating with epoxy.

CN

[Cybernaught]

Fellow Sailors,

FYI:

PDR #218, "The Ducklaration of Independence" has been officially renamed.

She will henceforth be known as the "Muthaducker".

If you wish you may simply refer to her by her nickname: "Mom".

Duck Power!

Steve.

[hairymick]

G'day CN

Nice duck mate!


What kind of materials can be substituted for FG cloth? I'm curious

I will probably get howled down for saying this, but I have been doing some very preliminary experiments with cotton cloth and epoxy over ply.

I don't know the poundage comparison for strength, but cotton SEEMS to wet out fine (a little harder to do) and SEEMS to add significant strength to plywood.

The only reason I bothered with this was to try to help out somebody from another country who asked the question. He had trouble obtaining FG cloth at anything like a reasonable cost.

[Boatmik]

I think a cotton/epoxy bandage could be quite good at preventing abrasion or denting at the mast partner or splitting at the end of the spars - but the glass would do it heaps better with fewer layers. Glass tape can be posted cheaply at any rate.

I wouldn't use cotton or other fabrics for anything really structural like the "glassing of foils" it doesn't have anything like the same resistance to denting (ie glass recovers - cotton dents permanently) which I think will result in the foils breaking where they emerge from the housing.

MIK